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Planning for an outdoor kitchen

ovilla

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Plainfield, IL
Getting set to do a 25x30 paver patio right behind my walkout basement. Here's some questions:

Gas line - Is 1/2 black pipe the right diam when going 25' out from the house?
Also, it will be buried about 12" down. Is that enough for IL? Finally, how far up, above the finished surface, should it be capped off at? 8-12"? Was thinking of putting a gas shut off valve in the house, right outside the house where it connects to the buried pipe and then again where it resurfaces at the BBQ 3x8 case.


Electrical - I already have a sub panel outside for a hot tub, which has room for two more 15 or 20 amp circuits. I'm thinking of running 3/4 EMT from the hot tub sub-panel, burying it below the paver rock base (12" below ground) and then coming up at the BBQ case. I would then have another 3/4 EMT next to it (so both would attach with compression fittings to an above ground junction box under the 3x8 outdoor island (aka BBQ case). The 3/4 EMT would continue to a new light pillar, go buried again, come up another lighted pillar, and then go buried again and come up at an existing deck post (for use as a 3- way switch outlet location). I might even continue on from here for some future pergola lighting. Anyway, I would install a 20amp gfci circuit and use 12 gauge for everything and have everything grounded to the junction boxes. Anybody see any issues here? Oh, power needs at the BBQ case are just for a small under counter fridge and a couple of outlets, plus a couple of lights. I would use one 20 amp circuit just for the BBQ case and the other for all of the deck lighting and/or other outlets.


Outdoor sink - I'm thinking of an outdoor sink too. This would be used mostly to wash hands and as a built in "cooler" to fill with ice and beer/pop.

Water inlet - Instead of running a hose above ground to the sink 25' away, I was thinking of burying a 1' diam galvanized pipe and running it next to my electrical and gas line. At the back corner of my house is where the hot tub sub panel is, along with a water hose hookup, the future gas line, and a sewer hookup that the house comes out of with 2" PVC and hooks into (a green 4" drain). I was thinking of having the galv pipe come up about 12" and have it connect to a T. The T would get an air hose connection to allow me to blow out the water before each winter (think sprinkler system maintenance). The other end of the T would hook up to the water hose bib.

Water outlet - I have a lot of ideas here (some legal and some not) but I appreciate all of your thoughts here so don't hold back but think of how you would build and use it.

(Option 1) thought is to go from the sink to a p-trap and then to a 5 gal bucket under the sink.

(Option 2) is to continue #1 but instead have the pipe go underground to a buried 5 gal bucket.

(Option 3) This is the illegal one that came from a friend but which I've also added on to. Bury a 1 1/2 or 2" galv pipe (with no pitch) to return water from BBQ case back to connections by house. Install a T ( just like the water supply for blowing out the water prior to the winter freeze). The outlet would then be connected to the 2" PVC before going into the sump pumps line. I would use a " Little Giant ", which is basically a sump pump kit that comes in a 5 gal bucket, which would be mounted under the outdoor sink. It would be vented with a AAD ( air admittance device) and also have a one way check valve on the outlet before going into the ground at the BBQ case. Anybody know of an additional strainer that can be put in line by a p-trap that would ensure that only gray water makes it past a line? This option only really works if an in-line strainer can be plumbed, which would force the p-trap to get clogged with solids (in case anybody forgets that solids are not allowed). Then again I could also put in a garbage disposal but I would have to remove it each winter or it would freeze. I'd rather just have a couple of lines to blow out each year.
 
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mrb

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does the gas line have to be sleeved when under the paver patio?
 

ishiboo

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Oshkosh, WI
Getting set to do a 25x30 paver patio right behind my walkout basement. Here's some questions:

Gas line - Is 1/2 black pipe the right diam when going 25' out from the house?
Also, it will be buried about 12" down. Is that enough for IL? Finally, how far up, above the finished surface, should it be capped off at? 8-12"?

Natural gas? LP? Total BTUs of all things that may be connected to the line?

I would call your local building department to find the correct bury depth for your area. I would go past 12" if that is the minimum. Keep in mind at 12" the ground can also shift with the frost heave,
 
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ovilla

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Plainfield, IL
does the gas line have to be sleeved when under the paver patio?

Don't think so. All I see in other neighbor's set ups is the black pipe coming out of the ground. I don't ever see a sediment trap either. Can someone explain why one is not required for an outdoor hookup?
 
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ovilla

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Plainfield, IL
Natural gas? LP? Total BTUs of all things that may be connected to the line?

I would call your local building department to find the correct bury depth for your area. I would go past 12" if that is the minimum. Keep in mind at 12" the ground can also shift with the frost heave,

I asked two paver companies as to where they bury the gas and electric line and both said that the put in a couple of inches of gravel base and then place all lines, and then fill with more rock, sand, and then pavers.
 

VHF

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On Ask This Old House Rich Threthewy installed an ejector pump on a basement bar sink. (Previously the guy had been using a 5 gallon bucket--for 30 years!) This particular pump attached right to the bottom of the sink and pumped through a 1" line IIRC up to the overhead drain. Something like that might work for you to pump back to your house drain. I would winterize it with pink RV antifreeze rather than try to blow out the drain line.
 

csp

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Franktown, CO
Don't think so. All I see in other neighbor's set ups is the black pipe coming out of the ground. I don't ever see a sediment trap either. Can someone explain why one is not required for an outdoor hookup?

Just a guess, but clogged orifices in your gas grille aren't going to cause the same types of problems that clogged orifices in a furnace, boiler, or hot water heater could have. ie frozen pipes
 

truckman5000

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gas code here..
sleaved, and or taped 3/4 min. underground.
Quick connection hose for outdoor grill ect.
Size the rite way, wich 3/4 should be fine.
Gas line cannot go from ground into home, must be brought up above grade and go into home (incase theres a leak, the gas dosent fallow the pipe/ into home)
Low trafic are 12" deapth, high trafic area 18"..

And the above is this state, and all should be thought of.

Sink, a drain, and vent are required. A "vent" is supposed to extend 8' in the air if a patio. And ive sene this.
Make an indirect type of waste system for the sink, like a pipe running into a traped and vented pipe, such as like a laundry discharge is done.
 
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ishiboo

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Oshkosh, WI
gas code here..
sleaved, and or taped 3/4 min. underground.
Quick connection hose for outdoor grill ect.
Size the rite way, wich 3/4 should be fine.
Gas line cannot go from ground into home, must be brought up above grade and go into home (incase theres a leak, the gas dosent fallow the pipe/ into home)
Low trafic are 12" deapth, high trafic area 18"..

And the above is this state, and all should be thought of.

Sink, a drain, and vent are required. A "vent" is supposed to extend 8' in the air if a patio. And ive sene this.
Make an indirect type of waste system for the sink, like a pipe running into a traped and vented pipe, such as like a laundry discharge is done.

Instead of a 8' pipe sticking up, how about a vacuum breaker under the sink? If that doesn't meet code, I know Illinois is uber-lame, then run the 8' pipe out, when the inspector leaves cut it off and put the breaker under the sink :)
 
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ovilla

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Plainfield, IL
Instead of a 8' pipe sticking up, how about a vacuum breaker under the sink? If that doesn't meet code, I know Illinois is uber-lame, then run the 8' pipe out, when the inspector leaves cut it off and put the breaker under the sink :)

What's a vacuum breaker? Is it the same as the AAD (Air Admittance Device) that I'm planning on using, that basically takes the place of a traditional vent?
 

ishiboo

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What's a vacuum breaker? Is it the same as the AAD (Air Admittance Device) that I'm planning on using, that basically takes the place of a traditional vent?

No, it's something different. Air Admittance Device is what I meant :)
 
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ovilla

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does the gas line have to be sleeved when under the paver patio?

Just wanted to give everyone an update so you can learn something too. I went on my city's website and found that, YES, a gas line has to be sleeved. The interesting thing is that I've now seen two other set ups in my subdivision that just had a black pipe coming up out of the ground. Maybe these were done a while back, under an old code, or maybe they were never inspected. Anyway, I'm building it to the current code.

Code now states (for my town) that black pipe underground is not permitted and that no underground connections are allowed either. Code says to use PE piping or CSST, with the CSST being the stainless corrugated stuff that has a yellow plastic sheeting over it. The CSST connections are all straight forward compression fittings that utilize about 6 different washers and o-rings at each connection. Hence, no special tools needed.

Anyway, the inside diameter of the sleeve must be at least 1/2" bigger than the outside diameter of the flexible gas line that you are using. I'm running a 1/2" gas line through a 1 1/2" PVC pipe. While at Menards I put together an elbow and some straight pieces and had no issue fishing the gas line through my mock up piping.


Another update on the patio itself. The pavers are almost all done. I did bury pipes for pursuing option #3 but am also considering a french drain. Anyway, as soon as the pavers are done, I'll be building a pergola and finishing the electrical, as well as starting the build of my kitchen island.

Kitchen island - We have really cold and hot temps here (and snow too), so I need to build something that will do well with harsh elements. I'm thinking of building my island out of steel 2X4's and then using cement backerboard for all of my sides.

Countertop - I might use the backerboard for the top too and then just tile it or maybe I'll just look for a slab of granite. I'm not sure how the granite will hold up though. Does outdoor granite just need to be sealed each year? I've also been thinking about making my own cement countertop and just need to know where I can get some of the powder they use to give the cement some color. If anybody knows where you can buy it, please let me know. I could either mix it in with fresh cement or just stain the cement afterwards.
 
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mrb

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PE pipe is NOT the corrugated stainless stuff with the yellow plastic. That is CSST. PE is a heavy wall polyethlyne tubing. You will most likely not be able to buy it and do it yourself. Usually the transitions from PE to steel pipe are fusion spliced.
 
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ovilla

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PE pipe is NOT the corrugated stainless stuff with the yellow plastic. That is CSST. PE is a heavy wall polyethlyne tubing. You will most likely not be able to buy it and do it yourself. Usually the transitions from PE to steel pipe are fusion spliced.

Correct! I typed in PE, but should have typed CSST. I'm actually going to correct the post, so it doesn't cause any confusion. My town actually allows the use of both PE and CSST, since they don't required any underground connections. I'm not using PE, because as you point out, it's not DIY friendly.

MRB, are you a plumber or electrician? Just wondering. Thanks
 
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mrb

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im suprised they allow CSST underground. make sure its properly bonded.

edit: i thought to buy CSST you have to be licensed and trained on the particular product.....
 
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ovilla

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im suprised they allow CSST underground. make sure its properly bonded.

edit: i thought to buy CSST you have to be licensed and trained on the particular product.....

I was surprised when I was told that it's sold locally at Menards. I found it in 25', 75' and 150' coils. There's also a booklet right next to the coils and fittings for $2 that shows a recommeded installation method for just about every scenario that you can think of (even had a pic for a patio installation). Bought it too.

It recommends that the sheeting extend 6" above the finished surface so I'll be doing that. It also has a whole section on bonding. Anyway, I bought a 75' coil since I'll need about 30' feet. I also picked up a pressure testing gauge (which comes with a shrader valve) so I can check my compression fittings for leaks. I'll of course do the soapy water method, initially, as well.

Anybody know how long one should pressure test for leaks? I was thinking of inflating the gas line with air to 12 pounds and then checking it the next day (24 hours later). Is this too long? Will I get a different reading the next day due to the simple change in weather? If so, how long should I wait to validate that the gauge reading has not changed?


Bull - How about a plumbing section on the site? I know some folks put bathrooms in their garages too.
 
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