plans for 24x34 garage

[Ricky6991]

Hey, new to your forum. My name is ricky and i am living in Rhode island. East coast weather. Snow, rain ect.

So i just purchase a house and it is on a 1.5 ache lot. It has a small slight angle downward towards the street level. Has many trees for me to cut down. Under 15 feet though so not huge. I will 100% be hiring someone for excavating the land and for concrete work. Ill cut trees but someone professional has to smooth land for me.

Anyways ill try not to put 2 months of thoughts into my firat post and make it as readable as possible lol.

Some info of garage...
I am allowed 875sqft and total hieght of 30ft. Therefore, my plan is to do 24 wide by 34 long. It puts me a tad under my sqft limit. I want to use attic truss so ill have a 12' wide by 34' long attic as nice finished space. The main portion of garage i want all empty space. Hieght will need to be atleast 12ft. Do not care for windows. One big garage door is perfect. One normal size access door is fine. Electrical will be a full 200amp service from national grid strait to building with own meter.

Some questions for now !
I am not sure type of garage to build? Pole barn seems cheap an efficient however cannot build myself. Metal building is ok however i want insulation. Mine as well do a full wood building and insulate it all, considering metal building would need wood studs for insulating.

Concrete has to be how thick for a lift? I will not be using garage for automotive for afew yrs but want to pour correct first time.

Huge problem is i cannot have a drain unless i tie into my septic. I cannot do that without having whole new inspection process BUT what if i were to put a drain into the slab sticking inside garage 6" and bury only couple feet with it capped off away from slab. This way after entire garage complete i can remove cap and pipe into septic with inspections ect.? Do not want to drill into concrete after its done.

I want to bury pvc and run pex tubing from my house with internet wire and cable wire. Should this come out of ground and through the concrete or can i do this after garage is built by coming out ground next to building and into side building?

My experience with building an entire structure is zero lol. I have plenty of hands on experience. I can do electrical and wood work. I have several people who help build garage with experience but i hate nagging people for newb questions. This is what forum are for !!! There is alot for me to plan before March when i start making calls for excavating. I want a fool proof plan for qhat i want and need to do before anything is started.

Thanks for any input. Ask any questions and advice for me.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

I am allowed 875sqft and total hieght of 30ft. Therefore, my plan is to do 24 wide by 34 long.

I presume that the local zoning law restricts you to "only" 875sf. Is that correct? Would you like a bigger garage than that?

Where do you live? In a city? Village? Township? Urban? Rural? I think you said 1.5 acres; probably rural and in a township.

Our township had a limit on detached structures of 600sf. Which for a race shop today is a postage stamp. I dragged my feet for five or six years because I wanted more than 600sf. So I raced out of our 22x24 attached garage.

Then I called our town supervisor. Explained to him my dilemma of wanting 1500sf and NOT 600sf. He was new on the town board. Said that just the previous month he had a similar request from another resident of the town. Told me he would support me in coming to the town board and asking for a change in the zoning law. He also confirmed what I already knew ... change for a variance was lower than nil.

We're on 1 acre. Larger parcels have a larger maximum, especially the 5 and 10 acre parcels.

I analyzed all the townships, cities, and villages in our immediate area and found out that except for the incorporated cities ... we had the most restrictive size limit. I think the least was 1000 and the largest was 1500 or 2000sf.

I pitched me dilemma and a request for the town board to increase the size. I asked for 1500sf. Board directed staff to provide an overview of the neighboring municipalities.

Staff supported larger limit, building inspector supported larger limit. The board did to. The least supportive was "indifferent". Where they differed was the number. I told them I wanted 1500sf and could live with 1200sf. In the end they settled on 1000sf. I built a touch under 1000sf.

This all happened before I was Facebook. Today I would start a FB page for my campaign to increase the size of the detached structures. Get support from the township behind it. Let the residents build a place to put their "stuff" rather than let it sit outside. I think that would have made a HUGE difference.

So ... if you want a larger garage/shop ... look into the feasibility of increasing the max size.

My shop is 42x23-9 (I think, is that just under 1000sf?). I went with scissor trusses under half for a future lift and a 10' ceiling. I think the building looks a little weird (I'm on the road and can't post pictures). I wish I would have gone with 9' instead with the scissors trusses. The extra foot keep costing more and more money.

Good luck, keep us posted.

 

[Ricky6991]

Well i would love larger than that. I can have up to 1500 sqft if i can have 60ft from all sides of building. However now at 875 i can be only 15ft. 60ft is alot to put around all side. It would kind of ruin any chance of having a nice yard also.

I Am not sure with truss situation. I like the idea of having finished space but if i need the height for future lift i may do a mix of truss's. Some attic and some just tall so roof is same height outside but inside has extra head room.

Hoping to get this done for 15k range.

Just an insulated standing building. Not walls inside or electric or any plumbing. Just a standing structure.

 

[Dick in Wisconsin]

Talk to your town or village supervisor. Ask them about the feasibility of changing the zoning requirement down to something more reasonable like 20 or 25'

 

[camarosrus69]

Congrats on your new garage. I too have plans for a similar sized garage. I know you can multiply, but have you considered a 25 X 35 garage. That is exactly 875 sf. I've been playing around with Sketchup 3D modeler, and with this size, I can put scissor trusses in the back half and attic trusses in the front, and be able to put in a scissor lift the middle of the back half with plenty of clearance, using a 9 foot wall on a 6 inch tall stub wall/ footing. With my design, there is an 8 foot wide ceiling panel that is 12 feet high. The lift can be biased a little to one side, which would allow another car beside the lift, if you need it. With 9.5 foot ceilings, access to the attic is a little easier. Good luck, and keep us updated.

 

[matt_i]

Electrical will be a full 200amp service from national grid strait to building with own meter.

Not walls inside or electric or any plumbing. Just a standing structure.

Pretty big difference in specifications. Important to clarify first as its going to swing the price a good bit. Not sure why a full 200A is needed with a separate meter charge....

Hoping to get this done for 15k range.

For 816-875sf, that's into the $18/sf range. From what I perceive are East Coast prices I'm going to guess you could get the dirt and concrete work done for that much, especially with grade and stump removal required. Building extra.

Not sure why pole construction (cheaper) holds you back. Maybe erecting the poles? I would rent a shooting boom forklift for that part. Get time off work, etc, try to manage the weather in order to set and level them in the minimum amount of rental time.

 

[rsnip988]

Pretty big difference in specifications. Important to clarify first as its going to swing the price a good bit. Not sure why a full 200A is needed with a separate meter charge....

I put in a 200A Service panel with a separate meter for my detached "750sf" garage with loft... I have 50A welders, 30A compressors, 60A heater and more lights running than I know what to do with not to mention adding in a lift and all of the separate 20A circuits for each wall... I will MOST LIKELY never max out the panel or use the fulll 200A all at one time, but for $20/month minimum payment (meaning I pay $20 whether I Flip on any power or not, but who can't use $20/month in a garage they use daily/every other day) it's worth it... I was going to have to pay $500 just for the cable to run from my house panel/meter to the detached garage and be limited in the Amperage i could draw without blowing my other meter/panel without paying a service upgrade fee... They are installing a transformer and meter at my garage for free (nothing out of pocket anyway) and giving me more available amperage... Win=Win!!

As for building size... I was limited by our "Zoning/planning" department to "The square footage of all storage buildings on the property cannot exceed half of the square footage of the residence." I already had a shed and woodshed out back and my house is only 1440sf, so that limited the garage to 720sf after removing the shed... I talked the Zoning/building superintendent into letting me do 750sf, with 150sf 7'5"' attic/loft, if it is under 7'6" here it isn't "habitable" space. by making the bottom chords 2"x12" I can store up to 55lb/sf (per engineer's plans) in that entire area... (I haven't decided on storage space for my motorcycles or man cave yet or both...)
The other technicality i am using in this instance (with his approval) is I made a 14'x25' "Overhang/Lean-to" as a 3rd bay which will be closed in on 3 sides. It therefore not counting as a storage "building" not being enclosed... After the final inspection I am going to wall off the 4th wall and have it be removable in case I am called on it when we go to sell. I also added a small slab 3.5'x10' for a sound insulated air compressor room after seeing how so many users on here recommended getting it out of the main work area for several reasons.
There are usually people who are willing to work with you or help you find a loophole/technicality in the system if you look for them... My 720sf limit is now pushing 1300sf+ due to help from the planning guys and thinking outside the box...

 

[tomroblee]

Having a lot more information would help us give you better advice.

How do you intend on using your new garage and finished second floor room? The design for a garage used to store a large motor home will be different than the design for a garage intended to store four vehicles or a garage intended to be a shop that will only have one vehicle at a time in it.

You say that you would have to have a pole barn built. Would you build a metal or traditional wood framed building yourself?

What will be the orientation of the building? Will the single door be on the 34' side or 24' side? Will the door be facing the street, away from the street, or parallel to the street?

You indicate that a drain is a major issue for you. Are you talking about a floor drain for washing vehicles, a small drain for a wash sink, and/or drains for a toilet?

You say that you "want to bury pvc and run pex tubing from my house with internet wire and cable wire". Is the PVC and/or Pex to be used for water and or sewer lines, or is it just to be used as conduit for the internet and cable wires?

From a drainage standpoint, it is best to have the building on a high point with water draining away in all directions. If your lot has a slope toward the street, this may present a problem (depending on the amount of slope). Unless you build an elevated pad (best using crushed stone and costing $$), you may have one side dug into the slope. This could best be accomplished with a concrete foundation that functions as a retaining wall on the side dug into the slope. A traditional stud framed building would be best for this application.

Attic trusses can create a nice upstairs room--if the building is wide enough and the pitch of the roof is high enough. With a 24' wide building the attic room will only have 8' ceiling height for about 8' even with a 12/12 pitch roof. You also have to consider how and where you access this room. In my opinion, a nice finished room isn't so nice if you have to use a ladder to get to it. A stairway can take up a lot floor space and its placement may interfere with your use of the garage.

Water and sewer lines need to be buried below the frost line and should come up inside the slab. Internet and cable lines can enter the building anywhere.

Some folks have been known to install floor drains that were capped a fraction of an inch below floor level. They weren't visible when a the building inspector made his final inspection. The thin layer of concrete covering the drains was chipped away and the drains were made functional after the inspector left.

If you are eventually wanting a lift you need to check the concrete requirements manufacturers that you are considering, You will probably only require thicker concrete in the areas where the lift is mounted (not the entire 24' x 34' area). You also need to make sure that your overhead door (or the tracks and/or opener) won't interfere with the area where the lift will be located.

Your budget may not be realistic--especially if you are hiring the work done.

 

[MushCreek]

Since you can go 30' high, consider a gambrel roof. My barn is 28' wide with a 12' plus ceiling downstairs and a huge loft, but it is under 30' tall. Check out barnplans.com to see how they are made. Those are the plans I used for mine.

 

[rsnip988]

Some folks have been known to install floor drains that were capped a fraction of an inch below floor level. They weren't visible when a the building inspector made his final inspection. The thin layer of concrete covering the drains was chipped away and the drains were made functional after the inspector left.

If you are eventually wanting a lift you need to check the concrete requirements manufacturers that you are considering, You will probably only require thicker concrete in the areas where the lift is mounted (not the entire 24' x 34' area). You also need to make sure that your overhead door (or the tracks and/or opener) won't interfere with the area where the lift will be located.
My Wife's uncle did just this on his new garage build!
Your budget may not be realistic--especially if you are hiring the work done.

Since you can go 30' high, consider a gambrel roof. My barn is 28' wide with a 12' plus ceiling downstairs and a huge loft, but it is under 30' tall. Check out barnplans.com to see how they are made. Those are the plans I used for mine.

I went with 8' walls and gambrel/barn style trusses 18' scissor trusses 12' Attic trusses. Should be plenty of room for my planned 4 post lift.

I have read that most lifts recommend at least 6" deep, some require more for more secure anchorage. For a 2 post I would want deeper anchor bolts since there are only 2 points of contact with the concrete.

 

[Ricky6991]

ok so let me be more clear. I was pretty vague cause first post...

I chose 24ft width only because I thought the truss were 24ft wide. figured they came premade in certain sizes and 24ft was closest I could have. I would also love to do a Gamble size attic but was afraid the height with 12' in main garage would be too much.

as for the difference in the type of building, I would prefer something that is going to add value to my property and I am just not sure a metal building would look ok. I don't mind a metal building however IF I were to use a metal building I would need to stud inside and fully insulate it. it is just extra money to do things twice IMO. but again I am a NOOB lol. not familiar with a lot of this and I am doing a ton of research to see differences and to see what to do while building ect.

also, the use of my garage will guess explain to you guys what I need.

 

[Ricky6991]

Having a lot more information would help us give you better advice.

How do you intend on using your new garage and finished second floor room? The design for a garage used to store a large motor home will be different than the design for a garage intended to store four vehicles or a garage intended to be a shop that will only have one vehicle at a time in it.

You say that you would have to have a pole barn built. Would you build a metal or traditional wood framed building yourself?

What will be the orientation of the building? Will the single door be on the 34' side or 24' side? Will the door be facing the street, away from the street, or parallel to the street?

You indicate that a drain is a major issue for you. Are you talking about a floor drain for washing vehicles, a small drain for a wash sink, and/or drains for a toilet?

You say that you "want to bury pvc and run pex tubing from my house with internet wire and cable wire". Is the PVC and/or Pex to be used for water and or sewer lines, or is it just to be used as conduit for the internet and cable wires?

From a drainage standpoint, it is best to have the building on a high point with water draining away in all directions. If your lot has a slope toward the street, this may present a problem (depending on the amount of slope). Unless you build an elevated pad (best using crushed stone and costing $$), you may have one side dug into the slope. This could best be accomplished with a concrete foundation that functions as a retaining wall on the side dug into the slope. A traditional stud framed building would be best for this application.

Attic trusses can create a nice upstairs room--if the building is wide enough and the pitch of the roof is high enough. With a 24' wide building the attic room will only have 8' ceiling height for about 8' even with a 12/12 pitch roof. You also have to consider how and where you access this room. In my opinion, a nice finished room isn't so nice if you have to use a ladder to get to it. A stairway can take up a lot floor space and its placement may interfere with your use of the garage.

Water and sewer lines need to be buried below the frost line and should come up inside the slab. Internet and cable lines can enter the building anywhere.

Some folks have been known to install floor drains that were capped a fraction of an inch below floor level. They weren't visible when a the building inspector made his final inspection. The thin layer of concrete covering the drains was chipped away and the drains were made functional after the inspector left.

If you are eventually wanting a lift you need to check the concrete requirements manufacturers that you are considering, You will probably only require thicker concrete in the areas where the lift is mounted (not the entire 24' x 34' area). You also need to make sure that your overhead door (or the tracks and/or opener) won't interfere with the area where the lift will be located.

Your budget may not be realistic--especially if you are hiring the work done.

ok I had to quote your post specifically cause there are a lot of good questions.

building use is described in last post and explains why I need full insulated building and my electrical usage. also, the orientation of the building is the main garage door will be on the 24ft side of building and the entrance way will be closest to garage door but on the 35ft length side. I have a written drawing that describes everything very well on graph paper ill upload tonight. I tried cad program recommended form another post on here and girlfriends laptop ***** (garbage new windows). Also yes i can building garage myself with help of few guys i know. Not a pole barn or metal though. Only if it is strictly a wood garage.

Flatening of land and cement will be done by professional cause no experience and foundation maybe needed on slape side.

drain is an issue only because I wanna install anything I neeed for it before he cement howeve the rules for the drain are strict so I would like to do entire building as a empty frame and later begin the drain installment just in case I run into issues or cannot afford it.

water will be pex tubing mot likely. I have used it several times and works great however idk how it will do inside pvc buried in ground. again more research on what type of lines to use. I have 4 months before any landscaping starts. also my property does slope towards the street. however the building will be parallel with the street ( nowhere near the actual street as I am in culvisac and up a hill and last house in the culvisac. I DO NOT neeed a drain in middle of floor. just want 1 sink and if I have drian maybe put something in loft later on.

it is an obligation to have 12ft ceilings on main garage floor level. if this will ruin my loft then so be it.

please ask more questions to get better understanding if you need for better advice. I will post picture later of my graph paper place. this entire thing I am hoping around 15k is stricting for standing insualted building with cement done.... no electric in this quote or anything else. I will do that later on as that's where I will spend huge money equipping the place.

thanks

Edit: sorry for rushing post i am at work. Lunch ended hwhile typing. Hence grammer errors and run ons haha.

 

[MushCreek]

Again, take a look at the barnplans.com site. I think their barns are very good looking. I have no connection with them other than I like and used their plans. Here's my barn; 28X48, 12' plus downstairs; 8' plus loft:

 

[Ricky6991]

I would like to bury a small section of pipe for drain that will be connect inside building while concrete is done. However maybe i should do like you said and not do inside plumbing for first inspection then decide for drainage after apeaking with other agency in charge of that. I can chip away small layer of cement showing drain after i price out drains. Would i need different type plumbing if i had toilet and a sink? Either way to have any drain even for sink it must plumb into my existing septic. So toilet shouldn't matter since going into my septic system?
Again this is alot of my research now is the drainage. Dont know much of it.

 

[Ricky6991]

thanks mush, ill look tonight.!

 

[tomroblee]

For your intended use of the building you may be asking the wrong group of folks.

Your major concern should be that a growing room will be very high humidity relative to the typical vehicle garage or shop. Most members of this forum are striving for a low humidity building. In a cold climate your primary concern is that the humid air will hit a cold surface and condense into water. The water is apt to cause mildew, mold, rot, and degradation of many of the most common (most common because they are the lowest cost) insulation materials.

Probably the best insulation for your use would be some kind of closed cell foam insulation. This could be spray foam, rigid foam, something like foamglas, thermax, or ???? All of these will be more expensive than fiberglass bats or blown in cellulose.

My first thought is that the ideal building for a growing room is vastly different than the ideal building for a garage/shop with a man cave above.

The cost savings with a pole building is that a perimeter foundation isn't required. If you are building on much of a slope you may need a foundation (or the equivalent of a foundation in the form of retaining walls). If you construct the building yourself, you will save a ton on labor. A metal building might be the best option for a high humidity building. If you are insulating with a spray foam of closed cell foam sheets there will be no need to for wood studs to hold bat insulation.

The drains for a toilet are about the same as drains for a sink---except that the toilet drain need to be larger. Both need to be vented, so you need to plan ahead if they are to be placed in the concrete slab. Another alternative might be to form out a small area before you pour the slab. (leave the area dirt or gravel so that plumbing could be buried at some later date.) If you building will have a foundation, it's a easy matter to bury a large plastic sleeve (capped at both ends) for running drain pipes at some later date.

You haven't mentioned where your septic field is located. Obviously sh-- flows downhill, so you will have a real problem if your "garage" is downhill from the septic tank. I don't know what you might be draining from your growing operations, but some things have an adverse effect on a septic system.

If you are wanting to buy wood trusses at your local lumber yard or box store, 24' is a common size that may be in stock. If you can wait a few weeks for delivery just about any size can be made.

 

[Ricky6991]

Ok i attached a photo i just drew. . extremely quick and sloppy but you will get the idea.

Honestly dont let what i do change opinion of the garage type garage i want. I currently do it inside same that i want to build. I can control my enviroment. As for insulation , i will use normal insulation and put plywood or drywall on walls so it wont affect anything. Like i said i can control my enviroment very well humidity will be 45-50% at all times.

Yes i will 100% need a small foundation. The slope is not bad at all however it is not flat. From side to side of garage slop would be about 2ft. So thinking a foundation cause i want garage floor slight above grade . a metal garage could work fine. I just want it to be insulated... No matter what type of building it is i have to construct interior rooms anyways. My thought was go for building type that would last and improve value of property.

As for the drain piping. Yes i want to cement them in and just cap then next to garage under ground for time being.

The sink will not be used to drain any chemicals. Its for normal washing of hands and washing a bottle every now and then.

The truss can be made from a local company i called them already. The attic 24ft truss is 175 each which i was going to do 16" on center. However, going to call for gambrel style after seeing the extra space. See prices. I want that space over head. Such a waste to not use it. Want to build it right first time you know.

 

[Ricky6991]

Attachments of house layout and garage layout... Up for suggestions. These were drawn 2 minutes ago so sorry if bootleg just wanted to give you guys some insight.

 

[tomroblee]

A 2' slope in a 24' width building does suggest that having a foundation would be a good idea.

The drawing of your lot helps a lot. One thing that you need to consider is that you don't want to have a driveway (or even heavy construction equipment) over the top of your septic field. Make sure that you know how large your finger system is and where it is located. Also consider that possibility that the septic system may have to be relocated sometime in the future if it ever fails.

When you are building a second floor with trusses, you need to realize that the trusses can be build in just about any way imaginable. You need to make sure that the truss you buy is appropriate for your use. If you don't specify a load rating a deflection limit, the cheapest attic truss may give you a bouncier floor than you desire and/or one that limits how heavily it can be loaded. You aren't going to be able to put a stairway between two trusses that are spaced 16" on center. When you install a stairway with attic trusses, you just place heavier (or doubled) trusses further apart to allow for the width of your stairway. Obviously, the location of the stairway needs to be considered in the planning stage.

If you are not going to be using the garage for vehicles for a few years, you might consider just framing an overhead door opening with the proper header. Instead of actually installing a door, you might want to just frame in the area with studs and insulation until you have a need for an overhead door.

Consider the distance between your house and new garage when planning the water line and cable/internet lines. I imagine that you would want to use a fairly large water line to compensate for pressure drop over the distance. I'm not familiar with any length limits for cable/internet lines, but you might want to ask someone knowledgeable if you will have problems, need some sort of amplifier or ???

I've tried to attach a file I copied from a post on this site a few years ago. It shows a second floor room truss that really impressed me.

 

[Ricky6991]

A 2' slope in a 24' width building does suggest that having a foundation would be a good idea.

The drawing of your lot helps a lot. One thing that you need to consider is that you don't want to have a driveway (or even heavy construction equipment) over the top of your septic field. Make sure that you know how large your finger system is and where it is located. Also consider that possibility that the septic system may have to be relocated sometime in the future if it ever fails.
yes i actually had my system dug up and cleaned as requirment before i purchased home. He told me i can drive equipment over my galleys cause they are deep. Also if it ever has to be redone and moved they want to move to in front of house so wont interfere.

When you are building a second floor with trusses, you need to realize that the trusses can be build in just about any way imaginable. You need to make sure that the truss you buy is appropriate for your use. If you don't specify a load rating a deflection limit, the cheapest attic truss may give you a bouncier floor than you desire and/or one that limits how heavily it can be loaded. You aren't going to be able to put a stairway between two trusses that are spaced 16" on center. When you install a stairway with attic trusses, you just place heavier (or doubled) trusses further apart to allow for the width of your stairway. Obviously, the location of the stairway needs to be considered in the planning stage. thank you. I did not know about staircase need diferent spacing. Actual big information before ordering an tryss to be made

If you are not going to be using the garage for vehicles for a few years, you might consider just framing an overhead door opening with the proper header. Instead of actually installing a door, you might want to just frame in the area with studs and insulation until you have a need for an overhead door.good info also. Something should think about. I cobsidered putting door up and no overhead brackets to get cost of door out of way now

Consider the distance between your house and new garage when planning the water line and cable/internet lines. I imagine that you would want to use a fairly large water line to compensate for pressure drop over the distance. I'm not familiar with any length limits for cable/internet lines, but you might want to ask someone knowledgeable if you will have problems, need some sort of amplifier or ???yes its decent distance away. The water line i have more research to do for it. Its well water but i have a 2nd well not being used in lower left ear where trees are in pic. Thought about using that minstead of well for my house. I have awesome recovery rate and pressure due to np neighbors anywhere behind me for half mile or so

I've tried to attach a file I copied from a post on this site a few years ago. It shows a second floor room truss that really impressed me.

Those huge attic would be great. O checked out that barnplan site but if i do it myself i am worried using someone elses plans may not work well since im not lrofessional. Guys helping me have done this before but still ita not same as hired professionals who work off blueprints all day you know

Edit sorry again for spelling. I hate posting on phone but work 12 hours a day always. So not much time when get home

 

[52wrench]

Install one of these, esp. if you will be working on machinery. A chainfall will suffice in place of the electric hoist.

 

[gpflepsen]

Install one of these, esp. if you will be working on machinery. A chainfall will suffice in place of the electric hoist.

Nice setup, to have a hoist like that.

How long, and what are the specs of the beam? What weight is it rated for?

 

[52wrench]

I figured someone would ask me that, LOL, had to dig out the design calcs. The beam is a W8X21, 8"depth, 21 #/ft. Span is about 25', deflection is about 1/2" with 2000 # at mid span. This is a pole barn construction. The beam ends rest on a 6X6 post that is between the 2x10's that support the trusses. The support post is not connected to the 2x10's, but the top is held in position by angles bolted to the 2x10's on either side of the post. The bottom rests on a 3' horizontal 6x6 that lays on top of the slab and is held in position by 2x6's horizontally between the support post and the main posts. The beam support posts are high enough so the beam doesn't rest on the 2x10's.

 

[gpflepsen]

I figured someone would ask me that, LOL, had to dig out the design calcs. The beam is a W8X21, 8"depth, 21 #/ft. Span is about 25', deflection is about 1/2" with 2000 # at mid span. This is a pole barn construction. The beam ends rest on a 6X6 post that is between the 2x10's that support the trusses. The support post is not connected to the 2x10's, but the top is held in position by angles bolted to the 2x10's on either side of the post. The bottom rests on a 3' horizontal 6x6 that lays on top of the slab and is held in position by 2x6's horizontally between the support post and the main posts. The beam support posts are high enough so the beam doesn't rest on the 2x10's.

That's a pretty nice span, bravo! Thanks for digging that up.

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