Plasti-Dip - Electrical Liquid Options to Insulate Battery Terminals

[mobiledynamics]

I've racked my brain and yet to find something...


On a bind, I picked up a replacement battery while out of state traveling...
It needed to be a reverse post battery, but it was not in stock. So I just got standard posts...

Cable in the vehicle reaches FINE to the new battery BUT right above it, there is a metal frame that is just a hairs breath between the post. Had a couple of bumps and when the posts touched the frame...it would create some weird electrical issues, in which upon further inspection, I verified the problem as such.

Is there any sort of liquid brush on *product*, I can brush ontop of these posts to insulate them without making it look completely HACK...
For those confused, just to clarify, battery in in the back off the trunk and the frame that is described above, is the frame that mounts above it, which serves as the mount for the air compressors for the suspension.

 

[jakemac]

try these -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taylor-20670-Battery-Terminal-Cover-1-Red-1-Black-/161820166414?hash=item25ad3bc90e&vxp=mtr

 

[rlitman]

try these -
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Taylor-20670-Battery-Terminal-Cover-1-Red-1-Black-/161820166414?hash=item25ad3bc90e&vxp=mtr

That, and perhaps perhaps put a piece of butyl tape to cover the nearby metal.

 

[hangfirew8]

You want Liquid Electrical Tape.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000FPAN2K/?tag=atomicindus08-20

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000M5PM0G/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Remember you can insulate the frame as well as the battery terminals. You probably have some kind of mass loaded vinyl for sound insulation. Test it for conductivity, if it's nonconductive, you're good to go.

 

[mobiledynamics]

I did pull up images of liquid electrical tape and it did not look clean at all
https://www.google.com/search?q=liq...ved=0CAgQ_AUoA2oVChMIi-r-2IDrxwIVg1w-Ch08YQry


I was thinking something of thick viscosity that I could just brush on and it would not run off
https://www.google.com/search?q=liq...w-Ch08YQry#tbm=isch&q=plastic+dip+tool+handle

 

[unslow1]

I have liquid tape on mine and I wouldn't trust it not to arc through. I've seen those terminal covers at auto parts stores.

Here you go Dorman # 60300.


http://shop.advanceautoparts.com/p/...google&utm_campaign=gpla&utm_content=22145738

 

[rlitman]

I was thinking something of thick viscosity that I could just brush on and it would not run off

Unfortunately, what you want, does not exist. The thick "dipped" plastic handles on tools like Channellock use a chemical called plastisol. It is heat cured, not something you can brush on, so it wouldn't work in your application.
The brush on and dry stuff like plastidip dries to a pretty thin film. Nothing I would trust to this use. It rubs off easily, and just a little contact with metal, and I'd expect it to tear. Then the sparks start flying again.

The answer for you is the solid plastic covers. There are several types out there. Find what fits best.

 

[hangfirew8]

I agree the OP's desired solution does not exist. Almost anything he puts in between will eventually rub through. Maybe a sheet of fiberglass will last the longest and still insulate.

Perhaps the best fix would be to use a shorter battery, or relocate it altogether.

 

[ChevyEFI]

The plasti-dip liquid holds up but isn't going to prevent abrasion or cuts over time.

It would be safer to clearance the metal frame a bit until there's more of a margin for error. A short could damage components, especially in a newer vehicle.

 

[gungatim]

there's a product been around for decades called "liquid solder". available at hardware stores most everywhere...but in your case, I would not use a product that thin.

Have the same issue on my old ironhead Harley, I cut some rubber sheet (actually those self stick rubber anti-slip pads they sell at HF) and stick that directly on the frame where the battery terminals are. it's about 3/16" thick, and does not look hack...

 

[404]

Some rubber is actually electrically conductive (sort of) so what ever you choose check it with an ohm meter first.

 

[hayhauler71]

Buy the right battery before it cost more in the long run

 

[monkeyspanners]

Get the right battery and fit it. Not worth saving a few $$ if your car then catches fire.

 

[djb2]

You don't want something that is merely an insulator. Most materials are reasonable insulators, and 12V isn't going to put stress on any material.

Instead look for a material that is abrasion resistant and puncture resistant. That's how a failure will occur.

 

[Shiftless]

Get the right battery and fit it. Not worth saving a few $$ if your car then catches fire.

^^^^^What he said ^^^^^

If you insist on a fix, consider the 1/8 inch pieces of rubber sold in hardware stores used to make your own plumbing gaskets. From a spot well away from the positive terminal, pop rivet a piece to the nearby metal bracket.

If the bracket gets shorted, it will ground your positive terminal, send about a hundred amps or more through who knows where in your electrical system and possibly set your car on fire.

 

[toplessHO]

I have plenty of pieces of high voltage electrical mat
its about 1/4 inch thick
tell me how big a piece you need and just pay for postage

 

[404]

Buy the right battery before it cost more in the long run

Yes, and thank you, voice of reason.

 

[skruft]

I agree, if you can't get the right battery, something substantial needs to be there or the clearance needs to be increased.