Can you post a pic of what an appropriate socket should look like? I have:This ratchet with some patina arrived from an eBay seller yesterday. Now I just need an 8 point 1/4” socket, a hex 3/8”, a hex 1/4” and a hex 7/32”.
| 4708-S | Made in USA |
| 4712 | Made in USA |

Shoot,Sounds good. The new one is currently bathing in evaporust. The insides of the box ends had a bit of rust.
-Don
It’s missing the top hinged portion of the hasp. It’s very common for these to have that hasp missing. In my opinion the hinges used on these boxes were undersized, including the hasps.Smoke--It looks great and I love the drawers! One question, though--just above the sticker in the first and last pic is half of a hinge. Looking at the other photos, it seems to be attached to the lid, but it doesn't seem to have a purpose. What gives?
Edit: The only thing I can come up with is that it may have had a hasp that folded down over the sticker to engage with the staple to lock the lid.




It's Bangkok, pretty sure the West side of the river. The sign in Thai script says Plomb on the top and then (khreuuang meuu) "tool hand" - (chang gohn) "mechanic" below. (it does not say "streamlined") I saved this on my computer a long time ago but if you google plomb thailand there'll be an image you can follow to something about a S.E Asia photo collection taken by Robert Pendleton ( Morris's brother it turns out). Something like that.

I’ve had to do this a few times over the years! It doesn’t take long since the screws are so small. You can source the correct thread pitch usually online if you don’t want to put in a rebuild kit.If the screw proves impossible to remove, I’ve had some luck using a drill bit the same size as the screw threads and drilling until the head of the screw falls off. Then the ratchet will come apart leaving enough of the screw to be removed with visegrips. Of course, you will then need a correct donor screw. I had to drill out both screws on this really rusty Snap-on ratchet.![]()



Nice work! Sometimes you just have to be patient but persistent and looks like it paid off. That ratchet/ pawl design is incredibly basic but very tough. There is a reason why it is still being produced today!Super excited to announce my method worked!
I got a little impatient with just soaking and straw spritzing and ended up putting the drive stud in a little vise and carefully applied pressure on the handle with my fingers, and once I had a little movement, I knew I had it licked. Just kept working the switch and the drive stud back and forth until it would spin freely and catch on the back stroke. Then I spritzed the hell out of it interchangeably with air and WD40. Now it's as good as new. It's amazing how well built these are.
One thing I noticed in comparison to my other 4749 (a 1941 "1A" model) is that they are not identical. The "WAR FINISH" rat (a 1943 "JC", subscribing to the letter-letter theory, and if not, unquestionably later) is visibly and measurably (1/16") thinner in the handle, and it has some minor differences in the face plate (noticeably rounder, shorter "legs") and where the head meets the handle (a stylistic curve). See marked-up pic. Apologies if this has already been mentioned. There are a few of the "WAR FINISH" examples out there. Off the top of my head I know that @Catfishdan, @RubiconJK, and @d42jeep have them and those guys may have mentioned it already.
![]()
Man do I like those for some reason. I will be watching for those. You ****.Super excited to announce my method worked!
I got a little impatient with just soaking and straw spritzing and ended up putting the drive stud in a little vise and carefully applied pressure on the handle with my fingers, and once I had a little movement, I knew I had it licked. Just kept working the switch and the drive stud back and forth until it would spin freely and catch on the back stroke. Then I spritzed the hell out of it interchangeably with air and WD40. Now it's as good as new. It's amazing how well built these are.
One thing I noticed in comparison to my other 4749 (a 1941 "1A" model) is that they are not identical. The "WAR FINISH" rat (a 1943 "JC", subscribing to the letter-letter theory, and if not, unquestionably later) is visibly and measurably (1/16") thinner in the handle, and it has some minor differences in the face plate (noticeably rounder, shorter "legs") and where the head meets the handle (a stylistic curve). See marked-up pic. Apologies if this has already been mentioned. There are a few of the "WAR FINISH" examples out there. Off the top of my head I know that @Catfishdan, @RubiconJK, and @d42jeep have them and those guys may have mentioned it already.
![]()










Despite the day I logged on the site I never heard of Plumb tools. But now that I replaced the screw and reversed the switch, "and please don'tI am not sure if I'm allowed to ask this here, but I would trade this for about anything Blue Grass Belknap?

tell me its facing the wrong way" Am I a pro yet on tools? lol.
Glad you like it! You got the last one of the assembly line so enjoy it. It looks right at home thereAfter some horse trading with @Smokeshow69 , I ended up with one of his signs. Real beauty! Now I have to rethink my garage decorations so I can hang it up somewhere. In the meantime, it looks good hanging out with my veteran's set!
![]()
I thought they were going to have to draw straws, one for the pants, the other for the cap.^^^ Except where are they going to get those over-the-belly-button pants??
This would be super funny! But I don’t have a square corner 9990. Who is going to send me one?
I wish that I had one to send you!
My unusual 1941 1/4” drive ratchet arrived today. It’s my first with the removable plug. I added it to a red box set with mostly 1941 marked tools.
-Don





