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Plomb tool picture thread - show your stuff!

Provincial

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During the War, appearance of the tool became a non-issue. It was all about how it worked. Those voids are forging flaws that would have caused rejection in peacetime, since they are "flaws," but they really do not affect the performance of the wrench. The beam of the wrench could have major voids and still be able to take the torque that could be applied to a 3/16" diameter screw!
 
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Private Lugnutz

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During the War, appearance of the tool became a non-issue. It was all about how it worked.
Not exactly, Jock.

Not to seem picayune, because I DO understand and agree with your larger point. But I see this a lot and it's just not true. The notion that looks didn't matter as long as it worked, met dimensional specs, and passed the Rockwell C hardness and load tests tends to lead to the idea that it was 'anything goes.' Did some wrenches get through QC/QA that might not have gotten through before the war solely because of minor cosmetic flaws? Maybe. But that's not the same thing as saying that appearance did not matter. (Honestly, that's the worst wrench I have ever seen in all my years of collecting WWII wrenches.) Those could be old rust pockets.

But for a less anecdotal perspective, See Pic 1 (GGG-W-636, Federal Wrench Specs, dated Dec 9, 1942) for context, and see page 2 in Pic 2 - particularly paragraphs C-2, D-1, and D-2.

1942 Wrench Fed Spec pg 1.jpg
1942 Wrench Fed Spec pg 2.jpg
 

RagTopTA

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Got all my Plomb/Paschal/P&C hammers out for a group shot! Theres 2 Proto on the left end. Couldnt leave em out. One of the small Paschal hammers has a black painted handle and is stamped Los Angeles with gold lettering. Only one I have seen in that configuration. Anyone else seen one of those?
 

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MR.X

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While digging thru my stuff looking for the drive piece to a 3/4" drive DXR12 ratchet I noticed the difference in the throw of these two 5469's. I guess i'd never put them side by side and upon closer look apparently someone pretty skillful went to a lot of trouble to mod the one.
 

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Private Lugnutz

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Are you sure? Are there signs of bending? Which one fits in the box? There are at least three variants of the 3/8-inch drive speeders, each with different throws. Ask me how I know! (Some of them will not fit in the 5295 box.) On those I was thinking different years or possibly different factories.
 

Provincial

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The flattening of the bends on the one with longer throw hint at field modification. They had to make the bends sharper in order to get that amount of throw with the length of material available.

It could have been done at the factory for a special order, but still looks non-standard.
 

RubiconJK

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My latest addition to the Plomb hoard comes with good news and bad news. The good news is that this 3/8 drive 5118 9/16 socket is the first 8 point piece I have found of the five sizes available according to catalog 15A. The bad news is that it appears to have been modified having been ground down and cut down on the business end by about a 1/4" from the 1 1/2" overall length shown in the catalog. For perspective, I've also included a pic next to its 5218 12 pt brother. Think I'll just dwell on the good news and be glad to have found it!
 

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MR.X

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I guess my point was that not seeing them side by side before I really hadn't inspected it very close...The 5469 going around the corner apparently wasn't even enough of a clue for me. All the bends show some degree of work. I'm not sure speed hinge handles has fitted boxes like regular speed wrenches did.
 

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Smokeshow69

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I guess my point was that not seeing them side by side before I really hadn't inspected it very close...The 5469 going around the corner apparently wasn't even enough of a clue for me. All the bends show some degree of work. I'm not sure speed hinge handles has fitted boxes like regular speed wrenches did.
Even if it is field modified, it is still pretty cool! Those are actually pretty handy to use! Good eye MR.X
 

Smokeshow69

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I got 2 more Proto LA era tool boards in the mail the other day... I think these are relevant for this thread based on the uncommon PTI stickers on them and the talk of dual mark/transitional advertising, etc.. They will be a bit of a restoration project as there is paint slathered on the edges and I will need to fabricate a corner of one...however what attracted me to them was the long combo/dbe board as well as the stickers! Don't find many of those stickers out there... It looks like someone also shellacked them with a darker tint but we shall see if that can come off... This means I am up to 7 boards total :) 6 proto la era and 1 mfd era :)
 

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Outlawmws

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I think those speeders are just different MFG plants in the Proto/Plvmb Empire. The spinning handles and the forged heads are also different. I don't see a mystery here.
 

MR.X

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There's the mystery of why we're still talking about it. It's obviously no big deal. Just a Sunday morning throw away post of something I noticed....The deeper one has obviously been modified. That was the point. It should have been obvious but I didn't notice til I had it next to another sample. We're all pretty familiar with the concept of variations between manufacturing facilities. This isn't that.
 

RagTopTA

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Got this 3/4 hex wrench at Pate a while back and just around to cleaning it up. I found it in the 1928 catalog. On another note... how do you guys go about cleaning the inside of old sockets? I have always used a round welders brush you see with the plastic handle at the welding stores. Got the idea to cut it off and chuck it up in my drill. WHY DIDNT I DO THIS 5 YEARS AGO??? WHYY?!?! works like a charm.
 

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Smokeshow69

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Got this 3/4 hex wrench at Pate a while back and just around to cleaning it up. I found it in the 1928 catalog. On another note... how do you guys go about cleaning the inside of old sockets? I have always used a round welders brush you see with the plastic handle at the welding stores. Got the idea to cut it off and chuck it up in my drill. WHY DIDNT I DO THIS 5 YEARS AGO??? WHYY?!?! works like a charm.
I chuck up a round brush attachment in my drill press and turn in on and slip the socked up in the brush....wear gloves when you do this but it works well
 
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Old Radar

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On another note... how do you guys go about cleaning the inside of old sockets? I have always used a round welders brush you see with the plastic handle at the welding stores. Got the idea to cut it off and chuck it up in my drill. WHY DIDNT I DO THIS 5 YEARS AGO??? WHYY?!?! works like a charm.

Those brushes are the only way to go. I keep 6-8 of them next to my garage sink, spray some de-greaser or Simple Green in the socket and choose the most appropriate size brush. I don't use the drill--I like the control of reaming them manually. I pick up the brushes for pennies every time I see them at estate sales.
 

Provincial

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Brushes for cleaning copper tubing plumbing fittings before soldering also work. They have plastic handles and are common in 1/2", 3/4", and 1" sizes. The pipe diameter is the outside diameter of the tubing, so the brushes are slightly larger than the described size. These are sometimes found at garage or estate sales.
 

Smokeshow69

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where do you get those? I really like this method. the more worn brushes are smaller circumference and get in the pin handle holes and crevices well.

My snapon guy has them, but so does harbor freight.

I pick them up at home depot, hf and as Provincial said, estate sales, etc...every time i see them in the wild I grab them!
 

Old Radar

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This is interesting. I’ve never heard of anyone cleaning the inside of their sockets. Might be something I’ll have to look into for the collector pieces. :thumbup:
Sooooo, do you only wash behind your ears? :lol_hitti

Just like your ears, sockets become oily and greasy inside, which attracts and holds solids (dirt, metal shavings, etc.)--much of which can cause unnecessary wear or make fitting the drive or nut troublesome--to the sockets, not your ears.
 

BlakeTheCarGuy

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Sooooo, do you only wash behind your ears? :lol_hitti

Just like your ears, sockets become oily and greasy inside, which attracts and holds solids (dirt, metal shavings, etc.)--much of which can cause unnecessary wear or make fitting the drive or nut troublesome--to the sockets, not your ears.
I didn’t realize that. Maybe I should clean the collector ones. It would probably take too much time to clean the ones I use daily lol 😂.
:lol_hitti
 

Private Lugnutz

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It would probably take too much time to clean the ones I use daily lol
Which is exactly what most of the guys 70+ years ago said...., which is exactly why so many vintage sockets have hardened grease and grime inside them! :)

I soak sockets in Simple Green overnight. They usually come out of the bath as clean as a whistle, no brush required.
 

Smokeshow69

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I always think that sets display better if they are cleaned up.
-Don
92F76501-3F02-42F1-B298-5411C0B6D905.jpeg
150% agreed! Cleaning the insides of the sockets takes more time but it certainly makes a set look way better if the sockets are cleaned. I do this with my collectible sets as well as my user / non collectible sets. I feel like if I take pride in my tools and cleaning them, my quality of work will be better/ easier and certainly more clean :) I am not a tool polisher as I do use even my collectible tools but I try to take the best care of them as possible.
 

MR.X

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The (date) Code is more what you'd call "guidelines" than actual rules.
 

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