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Plug wired to compressor

streetglider

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Painesville, Ohio area
I purchased a BelAire 60-gallon compressor that needed a 240V circuit. I generally don't fool with electricity and the thought of fooling with a 240V circuit convinced me to hire an electrician. The way he wired it up to the plug always concerned me a bit. The wire on both ends is very loose and the 3-prong plug covered with black tape continues to disconnect from the receptacle. I would like to put together a better plug and wire. Any suggestions? Can I do it myself or is there somewhere I should take it to have it professionally made. I am more mechanically inclined and can follow most repair manual instructions. Here are some pics of it.
 

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wyliesdiesels

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yikes :shocking:

is your electrician's company name Hacked Electricity, LLC? :Violent:

you should ask for a refund. that is definitely poor quality :headshake

that plug is made to be used with cordage NOT liquid tite conduit

what is the HP rating on the motor?

will need that info to size the cordage...

If the HP is more than about 3, it will need to be hardwired to a disco, unless panel is in sight of and not more than 50' from compressor
 
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mm08822

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So your "electrician" is a hack. That entire needs to be ripped out back to the pressure switch.

Go buy some 3 wire SO or SJ cordage at the box store. Post a pic of the motor nameplate to determine cord wire gauge. It will either need to be #14 or #12.

Then you can make up a cord re-using the plug and wire back into the pressure switch.
 
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streetglider

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It looks like the compressor has a 5 HP rating. The panel is directly behind the compressor. The compressor and electricity to my shed are the only things on it. I use the electricity in the shed for a light and occasionally to charge an ATV battery.
 

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streetglider

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Yes, it's real and, yes, I paid him. He assured me it was fine and, as I have admitted, I didn't have the necessary knowledge to dispute his assurances. In the past, relying on a professional has worked for me more often than not.
 

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mm08822

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So your "electrician" is a hack. That entire flexible conduit needs to be ripped out back to the pressure switch.

Go buy some 3 wire SO or SJ cordage at the box store. Post a pic of the motor nameplate to determine cord wire gauge. It will either need to be #14 or #12.

Then you can make up a cord re-using the plug and wire back into the pressure switch.
Above edited based upon subsequent nameplate info provided.

Based upon motor nameplate info, this should be wired with #10s. Be it with 10-3 SO or SJ cord or #10 thhn in flexible conduit. What size conductors are in the wall and CB size in panel?

The plug and recept is not rated for 5hp and should be eliminated.

If the panel supplying this compressor is within sight (and less than 50') then a local disconnect is not needed and conductors can be spliced in the outlet box needing a cover plate with 3/4" KO to attach cord or flex conduit. A local disconnect could be a more convenient way to effectively make these splices using the line and load lugs of the disco.
 

alfredeneuman

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Even the largest regular NEMA receptacle is only rated 3.5 HP (NEMA 14-60). It has the liquidtight flex for a reason. It should be hardwired or a pin and sleeve receptacle and plug (Prohibitively expensive) should be used.
Your electrician is a hack
 
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mike93lx

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Yes, it's real and, yes, I paid him. He assured me it was fine and, as I have admitted, I didn't have the necessary knowledge to dispute his assurances. In the past, relying on a professional has worked for me more often than not.
Man, that really *****.

Getting money back, or getting that clown to do it right, are likely not happening, although one of them should.
 
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streetglider

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I will repeat it again. I DON'T FOOL WITH ELECTRICITY BECAUSE I DON'T HAVE ANY KNOWLEDGE OF IT. I know I look like a fool and that I am possibly trolling the people on here that have helped me in the past, which I wouldn't do. I paid a professional electrician to wire it in for me and this is what he gave me. It didn't look right to me, so I wanted to see what I needed to do to make it right. It is apparently not just a new wire I can make.

It seems I will need to call another electrician to do this right. If someone can tell me what it is exactly that I need so it doesn't happen again, I would appreciate it. I will move the compressor far enough from the panel that the door opens completely. I am going to put a picture of the receptacle on here in case I need that replaced as well. Thanks
 

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wyliesdiesels

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If someone can tell me what it is exactly that I need so it doesn't happen again, I would appreciate it. I will move the compressor far enough from the panel that the door opens completely.

you will need to run #10 THWN in conduit or #8 NM-b to a j-box near the compressor. then using the same LT conduit or FMC, run #10 thru it to the pressure switch.

The existing wire inside the LT may already be #10 so check first.

yes you will ditch the plug and recept.

the panel needs to have 3' clearance in front, 6' overhead, and 31" side to side but that does not need to be centered. can be from one side to the other
 

alfredeneuman

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you will need to run #10 THWN in conduit or #8 NM-b to a j-box near the compressor. then using the same LT conduit or FMC, run #10 thru it to the pressure switch.




the panel needs to have 3' clearance in front, 6' overhead, and 31" side to side
The panel only needs 30" of workspace side to side. It begins at the side furthest from the obstruction.
 
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