Plumbing an air compressor feed to regulator

[TT_Vert]

Basically both the tank fitting and the regulator fitting will be the same height. They are 12" apart center to center. I want to put a ball valve between the two. Does anyone make a ball valve union in 1/2" NPT? I googled but didn't find anything. I am going to have a 1" stub off both ports to get the height I need to clear the regulator to get a direct line of sight to the compressor port. I am trying to find a way to do this with swivels or some way where I have some form of a union to be able to tighten the 12" pipe. I know I could just go with a 1/2" union and something like 5" stubs but I'd really like to put a ball valve in there if possible. Perhaps there is a fitting that would work I am not aware of? I might just go w/ copper if it becomes too problematic then just cut it out if need be later. Would you guys recommend 3/4" ID for this short run or just the ID of a 1/2" black pipe?

Thanks much.

Dave

 

[sberry]

Either size but ****** from the tank to a valve followed by union. There are lots of ways to do this, sometimes you change design, don't be scared to do it again. Normally a section of hose might be used for this transition. If i am using hydraulic fittings often use 3/4 and transition to 1/2 pipe. Hyd hose ready made off the shelf is cheap, comes fitting each end and allows the use of a swivel for union and transition to npt.

 

[The Cobbler]

several ways to do it, you could also run 1/2 copper and use compression fittings, or flare fittings that would easily separate if needed.

 

[bob15]

If you want a ball valve with a built-in union, look at Apollo Valves

https://www.grainger.com/product/1CKH1?cm_mmc=PPC:+Google+PLA&s_kwcid=AL!2966!3!166592357937!!!g!82128379077!&ef_id=WX5PGwAAAGog5yXo:20180826132652:s

 

[DGersic]

What’s the point of the valve here?

I’d use a short hose section, allowing the regulator to be hard mounted on the wall, without stress from any movement of the compressor.



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[pattenp]

What’s the point of the valve here?

I’d use a short hose section, allowing the regulator to be hard mounted on the wall, without stress from any movement of the compressor.



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To shut off the air pressure to the airline system.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I did like Sberry says, premade hydraulic hose and a swivel. Cheap, easy to find and easy to do.

 

[DGersic]

To shut off the air pressure to the airline system.

Which could go after the regulator.



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[timewarp]

I'd put the ball valve on the ****** out of the tank, then flexible hose to regulator, that way when off there is the minimum amount of connections between tank and valve.

 

[timewarp]

Which could go after the regulator.



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But then the regulator still has pressure all the time.

 

[TT_Vert]

Thanks guys. I wanted a ball valve before the regulator as well as the valve i have after it just to isolate pressure wherever I may need to. I ended up just going from 1/2" NPT to 3/4" copper pipe I already had, then into a ball valve to regulator. With soapy water I don't see any leaks. I've lost about 3 PSI in 24 hours. I'd like that to be zero but I'm unsure where a leak could be. It isn't from my solder joints I don't think.

Dave

 

[sberry]

On long runs additional valves may be needed or wanted, again, ahead of regulators. Pic 1, 1/2 hard piped from valve,,, then union and in to the top of a filter. Pic 2,,, valve on the hardline, hyd nip and swivel 90 right in to a fil reg to hose reel. Pic 3. shut off valve ahead of a rubber hose to a reel.

 

[sberry]

These are hard to get the whole concept in a single pic. In my case I have 3 legs or so and 80 ft apart so one piece could be shut off without effecting the rest. I have extra valves on my receiver, can actually isolate and disconnect compressors. But had a Bud in the auto repair biz for 30 years and had a single valve.

 

[PT Doc]

Hydraulic hose is much more ridgid if you need to make some bends. Any Parker Store can make you a custom air hose with the fittings you need.

 

[sberry]

Yes I agree. The main reason for the hyd was the convenience and the cost. Ready made off the shelf with npt fittings all crimped on in a hose 10x as good as air hose. Some as cheap as 10$ for shorts.
To tell the truth I found some damaged hose and made up some, a hose barb and a clamp work to and can get the threads in many sizes, 1/4 to 1/2 or more if wanted.

 

[sberry]

With rubber hose, barb and clamp don't even need a union.

 

[sz0k30]

Here is my setup.

 

[pattenp]

Which could go after the regulator.



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The shut off goes first thing from tank before the regulator. If you look at suggested air system diagrams that have a shutoff it's between the tank and regulator/filter.

 

[DocsMachine]

Here's my setup:

Stainless 3/4NPT to 1/2NPT reducer out of the tank, to a stainless ball valve, to a 1/2" NPT industrial quick-disconnect. I didn't really need the "quick disconnect" part, but it was an inexpensive and easy way to get a swivel.

That leads to a 24" braided-stainless hose with 1/2NPT ends I got off eBay from "The Compressor Source", which screws right into the coalescing filter.

I have the ball valve right out of tank so I can isolate the system if I need to, and there's a second ball valve partway downstream, so I can isolate just the filter/regulator system if I need to.

Doc.

 

[TT_Vert]

Thanks , looking up The Compressor Source now. Trying to find a 1/2" 4' stub w/ a 3/8" FNPT and 1/2" MNPT

Dave

 

[red61cj5]

The shut off goes first thing from tank before the regulator. If you look at suggested air system diagrams that have a shutoff it's between the tank and regulator/filter.

Does it hurt the regulator to stay pressurized all the time? I've been leaving mine on. Whole system pressurized except hose reels, I put shutoffs before all those.

 

[sberry]

No, but I had one come apart as I walked by. Only time I ever saw it. The bowl assemply snapped and the only way I knew it happened was the release of air stored in the reel. Reg port valve snapped shut, shut the air off. It's about the only incident I ever had but,,,,, as a matter of good design the valve goes ahead of the reg.
Extra valves won't hurt, if the whole manifold is regulated it makes more sense to valve locally.

 

[pattenp]

Does it hurt the regulator to stay pressurized all the time? I've been leaving mine on. Whole system pressurized except hose reels, I put shutoffs before all those.

I agree with sberry. No it doesn't hurt the regulator, but it's a good design to have a primary shutoff. Without the primary shut off to service/repair the regulator/filter assembly if needed will require depressurizing the tank.

 

[NUTTSGT]

I have a few regulators with quick connects, male one side, female the other and just plug them in where I need regulated air.

 

[sberry]

I have one for remote painting but really never use it, got it all built in. Have another one in line with filter for paint reel.