plumbing union fitting question

[TT_Vert]

Hello, I am putting in a pre filter on a 3/4" copper line and would like to use unions for a few reasons. One to prevent heat into the plastic filter housing and 2 to allow for easy removal for whatever reason. The housing is a 1" MIP but I'm having issues finding a 3/4" copper pipe to 1" MIP union. Do they make these? I suppose I could just go w/ a 3/4" Copper to copper union but then I still need a $9 3/4" copper to 1" MIP fitting (I do have these but the less fittings I have to use the better) Something like this is what I'm looking for but in 1" MIP?

Do most just go w/ a male coupler and a 3/4" copper pipe to 1" FIP fitting? I know I could cut it out if I ever need to but I'd rather make my life (or the future owners lives) easier down the road. If you have other suggestions I'm all ears.


This is the filter I am using.

Thanks much

Dave

 

[PaintDog1]

Use your 3/4” copper unions and a 1” x 3/4” PVC reducing bushing like this: https://www.homedepot.com/p/DURA-1-in-x-3-4-in-Sch-80-PVC-Red-Bushing-C839-131/203547306.



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[TT_Vert]

Yeah I was hoping to do it w/ one fitting but it doesn't seem likely. I already had purchased the 1" MIP to 3/4" C fittings, I'll just get 3/4" C unions. I was hoping to get an all in one solution (1" MIP to 3/4" C union) bu not seeing much in that respect.

 

[GMCGarage]

this with small ******? https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-1-Brass-2TFA2

 

[PaintDog1]

Yeah I was hoping to do it w/ one fitting but it doesn't seem likely. I already had purchased the 1" MIP to 3/4" C fittings, I'll just get 3/4" C unions. I was hoping to get an all in one solution (1" MIP to 3/4" C union) bu not seeing much in that respect.

Yep, transition fittings are a pain! I’ve been responsible for million dollar industrial paint systems and the installation always comes down to that “one” fitting. You know, the one that’s not on the job site...


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[TT_Vert]

this with small ******? https://www.grainger.com/product/GRAINGER-APPROVED-1-Brass-2TFA2

Yes but I need it to be a MIP not FIP

Yep, transition fittings are a pain! I’ve been responsible for million dollar industrial paint systems and the installation always comes down to that “one” fitting. You know, the one that’s not on the job site...


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Yeah it's one of those things where it will work just as well w/ 2 fittings but the OCD in me really wants to reduce the possible points of failure and make it look the best possible. I hate that car guy who uses a reducer bushing on whatever fluid system it is rather that just getting the right fitting to begin with. Of course those same people hate people like me who obsess about things that really don't matter aside from cosmetics.

 

[GMCGarage]

Yes but I need it to be a MIP not FIP

Yeah it's one of those things where it will work just as well w/ 2 fittings but the OCD in me really wants to reduce the possible points of failure and make it look the best possible. I hate that car guy who uses a reducer bushing on whatever fluid system it is rather that just getting the right fitting to begin with. Of course those same people hate people like me who obsess about things that really don't matter aside from cosmetics.

Thats why I said with a small ******.

here you go. https://www.zoro.com/jomar-valve-lf...nEkhqr148BAMstW-ZHwGTOE4tXo_F6ocaAlLiEALw_wcB

 

[RocketScott]

I’m not a huge fan of sharkbite fittings but it might be the easiest option for making it removable. If your concerned about heat from sweating the fittings together you can sweat the connections right next to the housing before assembling then sweat the whole thing in place.

https://www.supplyhouse.com/SharkB...MI36GFnpCE3wIVoCCtBh0H4wS2EAQYDiABEgIuM_D_BwE


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[TT_Vert]

Thanks guys went with unions and all is well. Not too ugly. Oddly both freaking unions leak. Nothing else I did leaks but the machine made unions drip. Surfaces look good and I cannot tighten these things anymore if i wanted to. It's a VERY slow drip so I'm going to let it go for a day and see how she goes.

Dave

 

[sberry]

You can Scotchbrite the mating surfaces up a bit first and I put a dab of pipe dope on the threads, just lets them slip a bit and tighten.

 

[TT_Vert]

You can Scotchbrite the mating surfaces up a bit first and I put a dab of pipe dope on the threads, just lets them slip a bit and tighten.

Good call. if this common on these? I figured they'd seal better than my rookie soldering. Only my second time doing it. MAP gas is SOOO much nicer than the propane I was using before. No wonder it was so difficult the first time.

Dave

 

[firebirdparts]

Very common. It's a big unforgiving joint with very limited sealing stress. They are just not well designed to actually work.

 

[TT_Vert]

And here I thought w/ a tapered seat and soft copper it was a sure fire thing. Lesson learned.

 

[Milton Shaw]

A set of the di-electric couplings that are used on water heaters would keep the heat out better as there is no metal to metal contact between the halves. Some lubrication does make the joints tighten better.

 

[rharman]

A little dab of RectorSeal #5 works wonders. I always put a thin coat on angle stops (compression).

 

[Mr onetwo]

unions ****...a leak waiting to happen

 

[matt_i]

Thanks guys went with unions and all is well. Not too ugly. Oddly both freaking unions leak. Nothing else I did leaks but the machine made unions drip. Surfaces look good and I cannot tighten these things anymore if i wanted to. It's a VERY slow drip so I'm going to let it go for a day and see how she goes.

Dave

Unions these days, especially copper ones, I just break out pipe wrenches that look way to big for the job. So far I've gotten them all to seal. Using lube on the threads is good in order to transfer more of the torque to clampload before giving up to friction within the threads.