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plumbing

dankeenan

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May 21, 2008
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180
I am not sure where to ask this question, but I figured it might get covered here.
My contractor messed up and poured the floor (monolithic slab) without putting in tubes to pass plumbing in/out of the shop. He said it would be no problem to add them later. Well he flaked out and can not seem to finish the job. Walls are up siding is done building is all dried in, but no plumbing. What is the best way to pass the fresh water in and sewer out through a already poured slab?

Thanks,
Dan
 
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Falcon67

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Jun 11, 2009
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Merkel, TX
He said it would be no problem to add them later.
Yea - since you'll be paying for it, it's no problem.

Probably what a piss-poor contracter in a neighborhood where we used to live did when his subs put the pipes in the wrong location (often) - rent a jackhammer. Actually, with a company using modern equipment, you could probably core drill the floor, then bore in from outside to get things done. Read $$$$. Alternately, you could elevate the potty room and pass the pipes out under the riser.
 

sigtauenus

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Sep 16, 2009
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45
Stereotypical contractor work. Please tell us you did not write that last check yet...

BTW, and O/T, but isn't it a bit unfair that a contractor can put a lein against the house to get the money you said you'd pay him, but you cannot put a lein against the contractor to get him to do the work he said he would do?
 

brownbagg

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Mar 20, 2006
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jack hammer, did the county pass the plumbing inspection before it was poured
 

kbs2244

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Nov 11, 2006
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Do you have to worry about freezing?
What and where are you tying into with the sewer?
 
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redsky49

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Jan 21, 2009
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near the coast in eastern North Carolina
Your contract with the GC is a separate issue. I would back charge the GC, but I would probably fire him also. You will have to work that one out.

The plumbing piping however is not a big deal. Should have been roughed in but you can work around this.

First, no jackhammer. Either core drill below slab and bore horizontally till reaching daylight, or saw cut the slab. You don't state how far you need to go, so actual conditions will determine your approach. Best to bring an experienced plumber on board now rather than later.

Saw cutting the slab will be the hardest to cover up after the fact, unless you apply a slab topping or some kind of floor finish. You may have to re-surface the slab if the repair is too rough. Concrete finishers and terrazzo contractors can do this for you. Also depends on your floor requirements

Hard to believe this could have been overlooked by the GC. Have you checked his other work, references, etc.?

As always, offered only as opinion
 

tcianci

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Feb 7, 2009
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4,242
Location
Walpole, Ma
Redsky has the right approach. Taking some care and deciding what method to use based on your conditions will get you what you need. It's called remodeling.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Northern Virginia
Redsky49 is on the money. I have added many bathrooms in basements where none existed before and/or corrected plumbing rough-in mistakes.

Figure out your plumbing rough-in layout, saw cut the slab (you can get concrete saw blades that fit your circular saw) and channel the slab as needed. Most folks have circular saws, few have core drills. The saw blade will likely not go through the entire slab, chip the rest. When you are done with the plumbing, drill midway into the vertical cut edges of the slab, insert rebar and do the same for the opposite side - wire tie together. Make sure you restore the plastic vapor membrane (assuming you contractor did that), and repour the floor. When done, put ceramic tile in the bathroom and all sins are hidden.
 

kbs2244

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The differance between this and a home basement install is the rebar in the garage slab.
If he saws it he is destroying the reinforcement of the bar.
 

larry4406

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Jan 27, 2006
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Northern Virginia
kbs2244 has good point.

To the original poster - give some details on the slab; slab on grade, structural slab, grade beams? A monolithic slab means one pour of the slab and footings - not necessarily a reinforced slab.

If slab on grade (soil bearing strength adequate), then you just probably have welded wire mesh, so saw cutting the mesh is no big deal. If slab on grade and rebar is used, the rebar is likely a conservative addition. If you have a reinforced slab (soil bearing inadequate) and these bars are critical, limit your depth of cut and work around the bars.
 
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