STIBuilder
Well-known member
Instead of the 4ft lights how about the flush mount LED can lights they will flush mount to 5/8th drywall.
That's a good idea. I was thinking of doing can lights under the mez but that's where my machine tools are going to be, so they would likely be insufficient. I should do flush mount LED's in both locations.Instead of the 4ft lights how about the flush mount LED can lights they will flush mount to 5/8th drywall.
It was a couple things, both of which were my shortcoming.Im doing almost the exact same floor plan with the mezz, do you mind clarifying the issue with the finished height? I'm doing 16ft walls +10" stem walls, 8ft bottom floor, 12" floor joists, so that will leave me after trim out of floor and ceiling 8ft up and down roughly.





Everybody in construction I've ran this by thinks it's laughable, but I'm 100% doing it anyway. In fact, where I intend to potentially hang things I am going to add them on 16" or 24" centers just so I don't have to be stuck at whatever height the girts are. I know it's probably overkill, but this falls squarely into that category of "~$100 in 2x4's and an evening is worth the peace of mind."First of all, I know nothing about construction. On my pole building the girts are oriented the same as yours, I added a vertical 2x6 mid span to provide support against sagging. I figured if/when the girts sag, it will stress the screws in the siding causing possible leaks. This also gave me additional support and nailers for the plywood I hung on the inside.
Concrete- won't dry out and crack apart and you can park anything on it. JMO, even tho it's too late.Got trusses on! Planning on the not too distant future- anybody have any input on asphalt vs concrete under the lean-tos? I presume asphalt is cheaper, but I haven’t checked yet. I’m going to pave the driveway and up to the shop, but am not 100% on what to do under the lean-to’s.
I just went with what the builder suggested, but having got this far, vertical girts would be more useful for sure. Truth be told, I suspect it would have cost more, but I wish I'd have done a traditional building. The excavation for the foundation would have been prohibitively expensive, although this clearly hasn't been an inexpensive endeavor, regardless.Concrete- won't dry out and crack apart and you can park anything on it. JMO, even tho it's too late.
I don't understand installing girts flat. This gives minimal nailing surface, little resistance to sagging and makes insulation much harder while creating tons of thermal bridges. Maybe I've watched RR Buildings on Youtube build too many postframe structures, but he seems to have the best product and construction knowledge for the buck out there. All his girts, inside and out as well as purlins are installed edge up, no sag and maximum nailing/support surface, room for wiring inside the walls...