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Above 1200 Sq/FT PNW High Desert Shop

Wokspaces above 1200 squarefeet.
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Instead of the 4ft lights how about the flush mount LED can lights they will flush mount to 5/8th drywall.
That's a good idea. I was thinking of doing can lights under the mez but that's where my machine tools are going to be, so they would likely be insufficient. I should do flush mount LED's in both locations.
 

STIBuilder

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 26, 2008
Messages
93
Location
Washington State
Im doing almost the exact same floor plan with the mezz, do you mind clarifying the issue with the finished height? I'm doing 16ft walls +10" stem walls, 8ft bottom floor, 12" floor joists, so that will leave me after trim out of floor and ceiling 8ft up and down roughly.
 
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Im doing almost the exact same floor plan with the mezz, do you mind clarifying the issue with the finished height? I'm doing 16ft walls +10" stem walls, 8ft bottom floor, 12" floor joists, so that will leave me after trim out of floor and ceiling 8ft up and down roughly.
It was a couple things, both of which were my shortcoming.

First, I built on a slightly sloped hill- about 2' from one end to the other. There is a partial cut on the top side and a partial fill on the bottom side. I still ended up with a small retaining wall on the south side. The wall on the south side was where eve height was set, so the height of my retaining wall was effectively removed from my ceiling height on the interior. Second, eve height is an external measurement and I failed to take into consideration the height of the truss bottom cord, so I lost another ~8" there. What really bugs me is that I had plenty of pole height, and the builder did what I asked him. I wish he'd have mentioned it, and I should have clarified as well, yet here I am... In hindsight, I should have said I wanted an 18' ceiling height and let him figure it out.

Stupid mistakes on my part.
 
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Picking up a lift from a buddy to work on electrical over Christmas break. Here is a list of what I'm planning for- let me know what I forgot

Equipment
-Powder coat oven (220)
-Belt Sander (220)
-Bridgeport (220)
-Welder outlet(s) (220)
-Lathe (220)
-2 Post Lift (220)
-Exhaust fan (plasma table hood)
-Exhaust fan (main shop)
-Garage door openers (2x)
-Air Compressor
-Pressure Washer (110v & Mixing Valve)

Bath/Office
-Bathroom fan
-Water heater (220)

HVAC
-Unit Heater (110 & Propane)
-Mini split (220)
-Office cadet heater (220)
-Bathroom cadet heater (220)
-Ceiling fan(s) (Not sure if I want ceiling fans...)

Exterior
-Driveway gate (stub 110 & CAT6 to exterior wall)
-Sprinkler controller (stub control wire outside)
-Exterior 110v on each side
-RV 220 in lean-tos
-CAT 6 & 110 for Christmas lights

Lighting
-Lean-to lights
-Under mez lights
-Upper mez lights
-Main bay lights
-Exterior Entry door lights

Low Voltage
-CAT 6 for cameras
-Surround sound
-Router Coax
 
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Making progress, slowly but surely. Glad Christmas is over, kids got a new puppy. Crate training her now, but I could see having a shop dog in the not too distant future. Brother in law re-used the "wrapping paper" I made for him when I drew his name for our exchange a few years ago and I tore apart my front end only to find the last hit was a litter harder than I had expected. Going to make a video on straightening an axle with heat to get her back in fighting shape.

Got lights up temporarily in the shop, bought a new Klein laser, and got my gluelam and ledger boards up! Making progress!

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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Well, on a positive note I bought the remainder of the material I needed for my loft- plans were for 3/4" T&G particle board subfloor over 2x10's on 24" centers. I'm an ogre, and didn't want that to feel like I was going to fall through so I installed them on 16" centers, thus...more materials.

On a sad note- I've kept a scrupulous total of what this thing has cost me and I almost wish I hadn't. I did the excavation myself, paid for the hole drilling and basic shell erection (hehe), paid for the concrete, and am completing the interior build out, water, septic, wiring, and drywall myself and I'll STILL have more in this damn shop than the house I HAD built 7 years ago. FYI, this is in Central Oregon for anybody who is surprised at my costs.

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rd65

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 29, 2017
Messages
2,753
Location
Granite Falls, WA
First of all, I know nothing about construction. On my pole building the girts are oriented the same as yours, I added a vertical 2x6 mid span to provide support against sagging. I figured if/when the girts sag, it will stress the screws in the siding causing possible leaks. This also gave me additional support and nailers for the plywood I hung on the inside.
 
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
First of all, I know nothing about construction. On my pole building the girts are oriented the same as yours, I added a vertical 2x6 mid span to provide support against sagging. I figured if/when the girts sag, it will stress the screws in the siding causing possible leaks. This also gave me additional support and nailers for the plywood I hung on the inside.
Everybody in construction I've ran this by thinks it's laughable, but I'm 100% doing it anyway. In fact, where I intend to potentially hang things I am going to add them on 16" or 24" centers just so I don't have to be stuck at whatever height the girts are. I know it's probably overkill, but this falls squarely into that category of "~$100 in 2x4's and an evening is worth the peace of mind."
 

rixtrix1

Well-known member
Joined
Aug 25, 2013
Messages
3,010
Location
Chandler, AZ (from west NE)
Got trusses on! Planning on the not too distant future- anybody have any input on asphalt vs concrete under the lean-tos? I presume asphalt is cheaper, but I haven’t checked yet. I’m going to pave the driveway and up to the shop, but am not 100% on what to do under the lean-to’s.

Concrete- won't dry out and crack apart and you can park anything on it. JMO, even tho it's too late.

I don't understand installing girts flat. This gives minimal nailing surface, little resistance to sagging and makes insulation much harder while creating tons of thermal bridges. Maybe I've watched RR Buildings on Youtube build too many postframe structures, but he seems to have the best product and construction knowledge for the buck out there. All his girts, inside and out as well as purlins are installed edge up, no sag and maximum nailing/support surface, room for wiring inside the walls...
 
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Concrete- won't dry out and crack apart and you can park anything on it. JMO, even tho it's too late.

I don't understand installing girts flat. This gives minimal nailing surface, little resistance to sagging and makes insulation much harder while creating tons of thermal bridges. Maybe I've watched RR Buildings on Youtube build too many postframe structures, but he seems to have the best product and construction knowledge for the buck out there. All his girts, inside and out as well as purlins are installed edge up, no sag and maximum nailing/support surface, room for wiring inside the walls...
I just went with what the builder suggested, but having got this far, vertical girts would be more useful for sure. Truth be told, I suspect it would have cost more, but I wish I'd have done a traditional building. The excavation for the foundation would have been prohibitively expensive, although this clearly hasn't been an inexpensive endeavor, regardless.
 

drivesitfar

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 23, 2013
Messages
36,006
Location
Pacific Northwest
I'll never forget a quote I heard when I was last in Bend about 20 years ago. if you don't like the weather just wait five minutes which on that day it was 75 degrees in town when the gal said it and it was snowing up at Mt. Bachelor about an hour earlier.

I love a good garage build so I'll try to catch up and see what I can learn and maybe help if I can.

keep up the great work!!
 
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gsuty17

Well-known member
Joined
Mar 12, 2018
Messages
119
Well, summer projects are about wrapped up and it’s time to start work on the shop again. Permits expire November 11th, so I’m going hard trying to wrap everything up!!

Electrical is done, except for the cadet heaters (since no drywall is up). Think they would pass my electrical if I just finished the install of them without drywall? Anybody have a feel for this? In theory, it’s complete and the circuits can all be inspected…but I know better than to logically approach anything having to do with the county.
 
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