To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

Pole Barn Concrete Insulation Question

NewKidT/A

Member
Joined
May 9, 2017
Messages
19
Location
Kansas City, MO Area
Originally I wanted to do heated floors in my 50X80 but I don't think I will be using it enough to justify the cost/labor to put them in, but I would still like some insulation under the slab side wall and underneath it to cut down on heat loss. From what I found most heat loss comes out the side of the slab if it is exposed.

My first attempt/thought was to cut a 4x8, 2in thick, R-10 15 psi "pink board" in half and run two feet up the wall and two on the floor but then I'm loosing 2 inches on concrete thickness on the floor which I don't want.

So my plan is to run the full board up the wall flush with the ground then add my gravel, then a thin vapor barrier on top of the gravel and go up the wall/insulation board a little bit with the vapor barrier to seal any air gap, then concrete.

As far as the out side, right now the "pink board" is exposed but I plan to lay gravel around the out side to cover that, or should I back fill with dirt then gravel? :dunno:

Any advice is appreciated, this is my first build and I'm no construction expert. youtube only goes so far! :thumbup:
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

moneyisflying

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 5, 2014
Messages
416
Location
Columbia City, Indiana
6dti77.jpg


20p1q4p.jpg


e99ro8.jpg


34e3lzc.jpg


vo5sfb.jpg


e9z29l.jpg


2dwc11k.jpg


2vnqm4n.jpg



I don't have any experience with heated floors. They sound neat!

Not sure if you have a direct purpose behind putting in the heated floors, but if you are just looking for heat, I ended up using a 55 gallon oil drum, and converted it to a heater for $35. It heats up my 30x50 barn really nicely in only about 20 minutes.

I just installed a inside/outside thermometer to measure the difference, and right now with outside temps in the lower 40's and upper 30's I can get the barn to 70+ degrees (although I usually bring it to a more comfortable 55-60 degrees).

Not sure if its an option or not, but it has worked awesome for me.
 

bsg

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
330
Location
Imlay City, MI
This is what I did and I like the results......2 inch foam under the slab with a vapor barrier. Two inch foam around the perimeter between the posts flush to the outside, two foot down from the top of the slab. Then we put foundation grade plywood on the outside of the posts two foot from the top of the slab down for rodent control, worked great so far!

I have not heated my barn yet but I can tell you the insulation makes a huge difference versus a non insulated slab! My new building was attached to my old building and you can feel the difference between the two......one other bonus is the new building doesn’t suffer from moisture coming up from the slab when the humidity is up, possibly just from the vapor barrier?

Kevin
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
OP
N

NewKidT/A

Member
Joined
May 9, 2017
Messages
19
Location
Kansas City, MO Area
This is what I did and I like the results......2 inch foam under the slab with a vapor barrier. Two inch foam around the perimeter between the posts flush to the outside, two foot down from the top of the slab. Then we put foundation grade plywood on the outside of the posts two foot from the top of the slab down for rodent control, worked great so far!

I have not heated my barn yet but I can tell you the insulation makes a huge difference versus a non insulated slab! My new building was attached to my old building and you can feel the difference between the two......one other bonus is the new building doesn’t suffer from moisture coming up from the slab when the humidity is up, possibly just from the vapor barrier?

Kevin
Ok so I’m not wasting my time, great thanks!
 
OP
N

NewKidT/A

Member
Joined
May 9, 2017
Messages
19
Location
Kansas City, MO Area
6dti77.jpg


20p1q4p.jpg


e99ro8.jpg


34e3lzc.jpg


vo5sfb.jpg


e9z29l.jpg


2dwc11k.jpg


2vnqm4n.jpg



I don't have any experience with heated floors. They sound neat!

Not sure if you have a direct purpose behind putting in the heated floors, but if you are just looking for heat, I ended up using a 55 gallon oil drum, and converted it to a heater for $35. It heats up my 30x50 barn really nicely in only about 20 minutes.

I just installed a inside/outside thermometer to measure the difference, and right now with outside temps in the lower 40's and upper 30's I can get the barn to 70+ degrees (although I usually bring it to a more comfortable 55-60 degrees).

Not sure if its an option or not, but it has worked awesome for me.
I like it! Thanks? I’ll be looking for heat soon too
 

joes169

Well-known member
Joined
Sep 19, 2011
Messages
663
Location
WI
Originally I wanted to do heated floors in my 50X80 but I don't think I will be using it enough to justify the cost/labor to put them in, but I would still like some insulation under the slab side wall and underneath it to cut down on heat loss. From what I found most heat loss comes out the side of the slab if it is exposed.

My first attempt/thought was to cut a 4x8, 2in thick, R-10 15 psi "pink board" in half and run two feet up the wall and two on the floor but then I'm loosing 2 inches on concrete thickness on the floor which I don't want.

So my plan is to run the full board up the wall flush with the ground then add my gravel, then a thin vapor barrier on top of the gravel and go up the wall/insulation board a little bit with the vapor barrier to seal any air gap, then concrete.

THis has been done in this area for at least 30 years, maybe even longer. We still do it regularly for non-heated floors. I would recommend looking for 25 psi foam, it usually costs very little more than the 15 psi, and stands up much better to the abuse of the pour.

As for the logistics, you'll need to grade the outside perimeter 2" lower than the rest of the floor, and then compact. Set the foam perimeter and simply bring the finish gravel up to it. It takes some patience and planning to avoid getting the finish gravel under the foam.
 
OP
N

NewKidT/A

Member
Joined
May 9, 2017
Messages
19
Location
Kansas City, MO Area
THis has been done in this area for at least 30 years, maybe even longer. We still do it regularly for non-heated floors. I would recommend looking for 25 psi foam, it usually costs very little more than the 15 psi, and stands up much better to the abuse of the pour.

As for the logistics, you'll need to grade the outside perimeter 2" lower than the rest of the floor, and then compact. Set the foam perimeter and simply bring the finish gravel up to it. It takes some patience and planning to avoid getting the finish gravel under the foam.

Awesome good info, thanks! If I don’t want to dig down 2” can I just run it up the side walls and still protect the edge of the slab doing it that way?
 
Last edited:
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom