Pole Barn with T1-11 Siding?

[socal996]

We are about ready to start our 30x40x12 barn here in southwest Montana. We've got quotes from two builders (one of which built our house) and a couple of pole barn companies. Builders are somewhere between $30 and $50 large more than the pole barn guys. CC&Rs restrict the use of metal so have been looking at other options.

One pole barn contractor has suggested using T1-11 siding, which seems like it would work. Here is my question if installing T1-11 would a normal pole barn structure (poles every 8 feet or so with wall girts) be sufficient to hold the siding? Are there better options? We would like the exterior to match the house it's board and bat.

Other options is to do a monolithic slab and stud frame, which is only about $5K more expensive (which seems pretty low), but that's the estimate.

Conditions:
Sloped lot (2'-3' drop) requiring a large amount of gravel and packing
Not sure of the frost line, but what I can gather from internet research is 36-40"
House is on a hill so get a fair amount of wind, I'd estimate 30-40 mph, but just a guess
Will not finish the inside at this time but maybe in the future
Usage storage and light maintenance work (oil changes and such)

 

[johninct]

If properly designed from the beginning yes it will be ok but if not properly designed from the beginning, your dead load will be excessive.

 

[rusty1]

...if you go that route, stain the siding with a good qaulity stain; do not paint it.
stain gets into the wood, never flakes; it may dull over time,...
...used rough-sawn siding (no grooves) and batten boards on our house, Olympic stain ...re-stained twice in 45 years....so about every 15 years.

 

[finn]

T1-11 is fairly common, as is some sort of vinyl siding over Osb. Just goes over normal purlins.

I can’t see getting 15 years out of stain, though, and good quality T 1-11 isn’t cheap. Last I checked 9 foot sheets were about $100 for the good stuff that holds stain.

Cheap pine 4x8 sheets are cheaper, but, in my experience, don’t hold stain as well as the good stuff.

 

[kbs2244]

In a pole barn the siding/sheathing is not structural
All you will need is something to nail it to

 

[socal996]

Thanks guys for the responses. Rusty 1, your house is basically the look we are going for.

 

[472scout]

For that use in your area I would steer clear of a monolithic slab, save the $5K, and go pole barn.

Skip the T1-11 and use steel board and batten siding for low maintenance:
House wrap to keep out the wind and water.

Pick your contractor well.
https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=436901

 

[Natty Bumppo]

We would like the exterior to match the house it's board and bat.

)

Why not just do board and batten then? This is my 25x35x12 with 1x10 pine board and batten for reference. My poles were about 8' OC and I had 2x4's girts (or nailers) every 2' OC. Stain it the exact color of your house.

 

[u2slow]

There's several different kinds if T1-11 and it variants. I get 5/8" fir exterior grade stuff.

Other versions I've passed over are: only 3/8" thick, spruce or OSB instead of fir; there's also some where the outside layer is molded MDF to look like woodgrain.

On my 20x20' carport, I've simply framed between the support posts with 2x4 on 24" centers.

Ask what they plan to do for the seam on the 12' high wall. (i.e. 4x8 boards) I think the right way to do it is to have a break with a flashing. I only have a 9-10' walls to deal with, so a ****-joint up high doesn't really see any weather that close to the eave.

My shop is not a pole building, and because of the tall walls and not wanting to 'duplicate' the sheathing, its sided in order-to-length metal. The ribbed metal and T1-11 actually look very similar when they're the same color.

 

[Hank11]

I'd do a slab, either a formed knee wall or two or three courses of block with 2X6 studs. Cover that in Zip system sheathing, then PLYWOOD T111.

They make Zip System with foam insulation in multiple thicknesses and you might consider that addition as well.

On the T111 I'd ask your builder for the local custom as to it being potentially snow and wet covered on the bottom part of the walls. My inclination is that you should paint the bottom all around and about 6 inches up each sheet before installation. But would defer to local proven practice.

 

[socal996]

I like the board and bat of the steel Truceder in 472Scout's post and it's an option, but would need to get around the CC&R rule of no steel buildings (probably doable). Thanks also for the monolithic slap thoughts, I'm feeling the same way after my research.

I wouldn't mind doing real board and bat, but am somewhat concerned about cost.

Living in rural Montana the choice of contractors is somewhat limited, but the guy I'm using has years of experience and his dad before him. I'm going to get a price on that Truceder product as I do like the low to zero maintenance of steel. To have our house builder build the building using LP siding, no plumbing, with electric and paint would be over $100K, just don't want to spend anywhere near that for an unfinished storage unit.

Do enjoy watching videos of others doing projects such as Smart Easy DIY

Thanks again to all for thoughts and comments.

 

[Jackfre]

Check out Hardi Panel B&B. I've used it on the gables of the shop & siding on the well house. It goes on well, takes paint really well and if you get the factory color the color comes with a 15 yr warranty. I've used Hardi products on the house, shop, well house and shed next to the house and have done so primarily for fired hardening.

 

[NUTTSGT]

Another option is to use vertical vinyl siding, pick out two colors and use the darker one for a wainscoting.