SI86
Well-known member
Any thoughts on Pole Building 8' Insulation Blankets?
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Pole Building Insulation
- Thread starter SI86
- Start date
Coyote556
Well-known member
I am in the process of building and that is what I will be using. I will be putting a vapor barrier over the 8' batts, then interior perlins and then metal on the inside.
Highbeam
Well-known member
Batts are pretty tough to get right. You need them to fill the cavity left to right and top to bottom without gaps as a blanket would be. You need them to stay that way and not sag to the ground. With an 8' wide roll, how would you hold it up to prevent it from sagging into a pile?
Coyote556
Well-known member
You hang it from a 2x2 nailer
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=169738
Insulation towards the end.
I already filled the gaps, I'll update the pics soon.
No paper on the stuff I used, just lots of itchy glass.
Went pretty quick working alone.
Insulation towards the end.
I already filled the gaps, I'll update the pics soon.
No paper on the stuff I used, just lots of itchy glass.
Went pretty quick working alone.
Last edited:
Rookie2
Well-known member
i used finish nails on mine to support the weight. make it air tight because outside wind will blow through the metal lap joints and into the insulation. I used house wrap on the outside.
jomobco
Well-known member
Batts are pretty tough to get right. You need them to fill the cavity left to right and top to bottom without gaps as a blanket would be. You need them to stay that way and not sag to the ground. With an 8' wide roll, how would you hold it up to prevent it from sagging into a pile?
design your building the run the insulation horizontal instead of vertical. Then you have 8' bats running 8' on center or 12' on center between your posts instead of a 14' run straight down. Just a thought.
smokem2020
Well-known member
My builder used 2 1x4s sandwiching the insulation, screwed together. Then hanging the bats using joist hangers to the posts. I didn't think it worked all that well. Lots of air blew in under the metal inside next to the floor.
My latest garage, I cut blue 2" foam to go between post. stacked them 3 pieces high, staggered the joints. Foamed them with window foam to fill ribs on outer metal. Then installed vapor barrier. Then installed metal on inside. I blew insulation in from top. The ceiling metal wasn't up yet. Later when I blew insulation in ceiling, I blew lots of extra next to walls so it would settle in.
All my wiring is in conduit surface mounted.
My latest garage, I cut blue 2" foam to go between post. stacked them 3 pieces high, staggered the joints. Foamed them with window foam to fill ribs on outer metal. Then installed vapor barrier. Then installed metal on inside. I blew insulation in from top. The ceiling metal wasn't up yet. Later when I blew insulation in ceiling, I blew lots of extra next to walls so it would settle in.
All my wiring is in conduit surface mounted.
Coyote556
Well-known member
I bought mine from Morton
astroracer
Well-known member
Check this stuff out. It DOES work very well.
http://p2000insulation.com/
http://p2000insulation.com/
rieferman
Well-known member
When I worked in the industry the builder I worked for (large builder, over 30 years in business) preferred 24" wide batts. Exterior girts to hold siding, interior girts to hold wall finish, and the batts would be a snug fit between. Butted side by side. HVAC pros would routinely tell me that our buildings were tight and energy efficient, and install process was easy. No sagging. Also, with post frame like I describe here there are fewer thermal bridges to reduce efficiency.
I bought from Morton also. My local building supplier couldnt even get the 8' wide stuff. Go back and look at the pics of the hangars I made. It doesnt get any easier/faster than that. I was able to hang the 8x10 blankets all alone. Push the cleat up between the top girts and twist it to hang, done! This will change depending on your building though, Mine is a Pioneer ,it has double "plates" on the top.
I agree with Reiferman,less thermal bridging also.
Also watch the video on the Morton website on their energy saver insulation,shows it pretty good.
OH, and I added some pics to my thread.
I agree with Reiferman,less thermal bridging also.
Also watch the video on the Morton website on their energy saver insulation,shows it pretty good.
OH, and I added some pics to my thread.
Metal building insulation
The above link will get you some information you seek.
lg
no neat sig line
The above link will get you some information you seek.
lg
no neat sig line
I bought from Morton also. My local building supplier couldnt even get the 8' wide stuff. Go back and look at the pics of the hangars I made. It doesnt get any easier/faster than that. I was able to hang the 8x10 blankets all alone. Push the cleat up between the top girts and twist it to hang, done! This will change depending on your building though, Mine is a Pioneer ,it has double "plates" on the top.
I agree with Reiferman,less thermal bridging also.
Also watch the video on the Morton website on their energy saver insulation,shows it pretty good.
OH, and I added some pics to my thread.
I do like how you went and did yours. Ill have to look into mortons
When I worked in the industry the builder I worked for (large builder, over 30 years in business) preferred 24" wide batts. Exterior girts to hold siding, interior girts to hold wall finish, and the batts would be a snug fit between. Butted side by side. HVAC pros would routinely tell me that our buildings were tight and energy efficient, and install process was easy. No sagging. Also, with post frame like I describe here there are fewer thermal bridges to reduce efficiency.
So do you use a vapor barrier off the Metal side to keep the Batts dry when the metal sweats?
mod9
Member
huh?
I thought it goes on the side with the metal . so you have from the outside in...... metal siding,vapor barrier,insulation,inside panel. is that wrong?
Vapor barrier generally goes on heated side of insulation.
I thought it goes on the side with the metal . so you have from the outside in...... metal siding,vapor barrier,insulation,inside panel. is that wrong?
First I want to make it clear, I'm not an HVAC expert, I'm just relaying what I've learned from reading lots of building mags and books and what I've read on this site doing research for my own pole barn. I take no responsibility in what you do with your building.
Mod9, the idea is to keep the moist heated air inside from touching the cold outside surfaces. This causes the the moist air to condense, build up on the metal and cause all the problems..dripping,moldy insulation, etc.
If I'm wrong one of the experts please correct me.
Mod9, the idea is to keep the moist heated air inside from touching the cold outside surfaces. This causes the the moist air to condense, build up on the metal and cause all the problems..dripping,moldy insulation, etc.
If I'm wrong one of the experts please correct me.
Coyote556
Well-known member
I agree with bullnerd
Reason I asked about the vapor Barrier is... The outside Metal is going to sweat with the sun beating on it... And with the insulation against it I was concerned that it would absorb the moisture.
So from what your saying with the heated side of the garage... It makes scense too so maybe just put a vapor barrier on both sides??
I was told to leave air space for the metal to breath...But Im like you Im just going by what I have been told aswell. haha
So from what your saying with the heated side of the garage... It makes scense too so maybe just put a vapor barrier on both sides??
I was told to leave air space for the metal to breath...But Im like you Im just going by what I have been told aswell. haha
Autorotica
Well-known member
SI86, your backwards in your understanding.
Condensation occurs when warm air meets cool surface. If you stop the humidity in the air on the heated side, it doesn't condense out when it gets to the cold outside surface.
Chris
Condensation occurs when warm air meets cool surface. If you stop the humidity in the air on the heated side, it doesn't condense out when it gets to the cold outside surface.
Chris
SI86, your backwards in your understanding.
Condensation occurs when warm air meets cool surface. If you stop the humidity in the air on the heated side, it doesn't condense out when it gets to the cold outside surface.
Chris
Science was never my strong subject in school haha. Thanks Autorotica