Poor box planning.... extension option I'm overlooking?

[PCustoms]

Background: many moons ago I wanted to add some switches next to the door in my basement/garage (courtesy lights and 2 outdoor lights). I did 4" boxes in the ceiling, transitioning to thwn and conduit from there.

Somehow I measured wrong (or probably had a different plan back then) and now that I've added strapping the box depth is all wrong. This area is pretty much solid closed cell so moving boxes isn't an option.

Currently have a 1.5" extension on the boxes, one would just touch the drywall (mud ring would create a hump) and the other is crooked and hitting the drywall by 1/4-3/8".

Looks like pulling the 1.5" extension off would get me to needing about 2" total.

Suggestions?

 

[mm08822]

Take one of these to a belt sander:

 

[PCustoms]

Take one of these to a belt sander:

Do they make a version to mount directly to a 4" square metal box?

I've us d plenty of those when tile or paneling gets added

 

[PCustoms]

This would work but can't find them local or non stupid shipping

https://www.gordonelectricsupply.com/p/Garvin-52C25-4In-Sq-2In-2G-Dev-Ring/6253361

 

[mike93lx]

How about a 2-1/8 box, drill a couple holes for mounting screws and cut out the back?

Edit... https://www.supplyhouse.com/Steel-C...re-Box-Extension-Ring-w-1-2-and-3-4-Knockouts

 

[PCustoms]

How about a 2-1/8 box, drill a couple holes for mounting screws and cut out the back?

Probably set some electrician into a rage, but that could work

 

[mike93lx]

Probably set some electrician into a rage, but that could work

I edited with a link to a actual extension doing what I suggested as a hack

 

[PCustoms]

Thinking about it now I'll have to see if I remove the screws if there is any play, but I doubt if. If I can push them back a little a standard mud ring works.

The brace twisting and pulling the one box low is what really screwed me

 

[mike93lx]

Could also stack these as spacers... More or less hack?

Your friend has shared a link to a Home Depot product they think you would be interested in seeing:

https://www.homedepot.com/p/Southwire-4-in-W-Steel-Metallic-2-Gang-2-Device-Flat-Square-Cover-1-Pack-52C20A-UPC/324472733?MERCH=REC-_-irgaccessories-_-324472717-_-0-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a-_-n/a

 

[mm08822]

Or try an add-a-depth insert into mudring.

Never was a fan of these. Need to tape your device with these.

 

[PCustoms]

I edited with a link to a actual extension doing what I suggested as a hack

Works, but outs me back to stupid pricing/shipping. Going to have to get down to the supply house before work one morning to see what they have

Or try an add-a-depth insert into mudring.

Never was a fan of these. Need to tape your device with these.

This might be the answer, and definitely have those inserts on hand (as I didn't like them for reasons you mentioned).

No device here, purely a junction box. How much access do I need to leave?

 

[mm08822]

Works, but outs me back to stupid pricing/shipping. Going to have to get down to the supply house before work one morning to see what they have



This might be the answer, and definitely have those inserts on hand (as I didn't like them for reasons you mentioned).

No device here, purely a junction box. How much access do I need to leave?

access to what? If you mean conductor splices, at least enough to work them and w/o a device there should be plenty of room for a small coil of wire.

 

[PCustoms]

access to what? If you mean conductor splices, at least enough to work them and w/o a device there should be plenty of room for a small coil of wire.

Yes

But is reaching 4" deep through a single gang mud ring OK?

I'll realistically never be in these boxes again

 

[dscheidt]

use an adjustable mudr

Yes

But is reaching 4" deep through a single gang mud ring OK?

I'll realistically never be in these boxes again

300.14 has the answers to your question. Wires need to be 6" from where they enter the box to where they're spliced or connected, and because your opening is less than 8" square, they need to extend at least 3" out the front. that doesn't apply to conductors that aren't spliced or connected in the box, they can be as short as possible.

 

[mm08822]

W/o any devices to deal with, make the conductors long enough for easy handling outside of the box, et al, splice 'em and coil them backwards into the box/extensions and slap a cover on.

 

[sparky 1971]

Lose the extension boxes and replace them with 2" deep mud rings.
There are also adjustable depth mud rings but I've never used one so I don't know how deep they get.

 

[brewchief]

If it's just a junction box what about simply putting a blank cover on it and leaving a hole in the drywall and using a simple access cover to cover that hole.

 

[PCustoms]

If it's just a junction box what about simply putting a blank cover on it and leaving a hole in the drywall and using a simple access cover to cover that hole.

I'm not sure that's allowed?

 

[dscheidt]

Lose the extension boxes and replace them with 2" deep mud rings.
There are also adjustable depth mud rings but I've never used one so I don't know how deep they get.

The style I can get locally go from 1/2 to 1.5”. I have seen a deeper kind, but they were old, I don’t know if they are available.

 

[mm08822]

I'm not sure that's allowed?

If it is an access panel that doesn't require demolition of the building to get to the box then that could be an option. No different than putting a shutoff valve behind it.

 

[Innovate1]

I'm not sure that's allowed?

As I understand it as long as there is access it's fine. And that doesn't mean no tools access. The access panel can be held with screws, for example. But if you have to cut stuff to get access that's not allowed. Another somewhat similar example is junction boxes for recessed lights. You get to the junction box by removing the light. A real pain to work on with such limited access but it's allowed.