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POR 15 floor epoxy

SWA Guy

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From their web site:

"After Basic Kit's (color coat - Guy) application just coat the floor with clearcoat, spread the color chips, let dry, and then topcoat to finish."

I too am very interested in this product. Is anyone organizing a group buy or have more info on the feasibility of doing one?

Guy


Should'nt the vinyl chips be broadcast in the color coat so that you can clear coat over them????
 
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DynoDave

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From their web site:

"After Basic Kit's (color coat - Guy) application just coat the floor with clearcoat, spread the color chips, let dry, and then topcoat to finish."


Guy

So you end up doing 2 coats of clear then????
 
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462gilley

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For the two of the group that have used the POR product, can you post some photos?
How would you rate the product? Is it like the paint, if you don't get it off of yourself you have to ware it off?
How was the service, and the delivery?
It looks like we have 6 or 7 that are interested in a group purchase, I don't know how many would be needed. Its a start.

Mike
 

BreBar21

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I've been ridiculously busy sealing the floors inside my house and trying to get things settled that I haven't even had a chance to do the garage. The garage is stuffed with boxes right now, but I'm going to start clearing it out today. I'm hoping to get started in the next couple of days. I'll post pics and impressions as soon as I'm done.

The delivery was speedy. I ordered from POR-15 Depot in Texas and it was at my door in South Florida in a few days. Everything ships in the giant POR-15 tub and is well packed.arrived safely.

More to come....
 

Value

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Drying time? Does anyone know the time frame for putting this product down on the garage floor? How long between coats and when can you drive on the final product?
 

BreBar21

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24 to 36 hours before you can drive on it. As for application time, I'd say anywhere from 1 to 2 days. They say "4 to 6 hours or overnight" between the first and second coat. If you're using chips and clear coat, "let floor dry at least 6 to 10 hours" following the second coat of floor armor.
 

Value

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What about rain? In Central Florida during the summer months rain is a possibilty every afternoon. Do you think as long as I have 6 hours for each coat to dry a little rain water will be okay? My choice is to allow the rain water or close the garage door all the way. My preference is to do each coat in the A.M. allowing at least 6 hours before any rain. Comments?

Or, is this a project for the late fall/winter when rain is more predictable?
Any advantages to using the vinyl flakes? I prefer a clean look with the maximum number of coats.
 

BreBar21

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What about rain? In Central Florida during the summer months rain is a possibilty every afternoon. Do you think as long as I have 6 hours for each coat to dry a little rain water will be okay? My choice is to allow the rain water or close the garage door all the way. My preference is to do each coat in the A.M. allowing at least 6 hours before any rain. Comments?

Or, is this a project for the late fall/winter when rain is more predictable?
Any advantages to using the vinyl flakes? I prefer a clean look with the maximum number of coats.

I'm actually putting this in my garage at our house in Orlando, so I know what you're talking about with the rain. Fortunately it only lasts for a little while. I'm by no means an expert, but I would think you would want to keep the water off of it as it dries. As for how to do that, I plan on just closing the garage. I assume POR-15 doesn't expect you to leave your garage open if you choose to let it dry overnight, so I don't think that'll be an issue.

I don't think there are any inherent advantages for the chips other than appearance. The difference between the basic kit and deluxe is the latter comes with chips and the clear coat into which you broadcast the chips. For me, the chips weren't worth another $200+. Since mine is a working garage, I don't need it to look like a showroom. I'm sure the chips and clear would look really nice, however.
 

BreBar21

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Ok, so I did all the prep work and first coat today and have some big complaints. First, they tell you that the pot life is 3 hours if sealed. I would not count on getting a second over 1:10 out of the pot life. I know the other guy that was doing it mentioned that, but my garage is under 400 sq ft, so I thought I'd easily be able to finish in half that time. I now have a trash bag with a big hunk of rubber in it. I had to mix most of my "top coat" to finish the base coat. I now will not have enough left to do the top coat.

Second, as probably expected, the rollers and brushes they give you with the kit are the cheapest of the cheap. The roller started to string apart as the stuff set up.

I was happy with the product until it started to turn to rubber in much less than half the time they tell you. I intend to call POR-15 and discuss my issues.
 
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BreBar21

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I spoke with POR-15 today and they are sending me another gallon of the armor and a quart of the activator for free. They didn't even hesitate once I told them the issues. I'm extremely impressed with their customer service.

He also told me that it set up so fast because of the humidity, which doesn't surprise me, but that tid bit was no where to be found on the directions. So, if you choose to buy the product and live pretty much anywhere in the southeast, cut the batch sizes in at least half.

I will say that the floor looks really good with just the base coat on it. I imagine it'll look great with the top coat.

The bad news, I'm going out of town for a while and won't be able to finish this project for a few weeks. I'm going to have to scuff the surface before I apply the top coat. I'll get some pictures today of the base coat. They did an amazing job at covering a very dark and big stain, so that really impressed me.
 
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BreBar21

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As promised, here are a couple pics. One is obviously the before. The second one is after the base coat, which they say "do not be discouraged by the appearance of the base coat" - i.e. the uneven areas, lap marks, some of the stains still showing through. The top coat will even things out and make it look how it should.

You can see the NASTY stain around the water heater from where the guy that stained the floors inside my house spilt a can of stain. It was almost black. I scrubbed it with the supplied grease and oil stain neutralizer and the base coat completely covered it. I was very happy with that since I expected it to still show through.

It'll probably be two weeks before I finish the top coat, so I won't have the final pics until then. I'm going to have to scuff the base coat to get good adhesion of the top coat, so I'm glad it's not a huge garage. lol.

The color is dark gray. It's a lot lighter than it looked in the can and than I expected. I was hoping for a more charcoal color, but it's not a huge deal.

Floors-2.jpg


Floors-1.jpg
 

JIMS GARAGE

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BreBar21,

Good Day! Newbie here. Just joined this forum and was drawn to this topic from the Corvetteforum.com. Glad to hear you did have a successful application as a first time user of this product.

I have a 2 1/2 car garage (approx. 624 sq. ft.) and my question is what initial prep would be needed if your garage floor was already painted (7 to 8 years ago). It's weathered fairly well. At that time I had prepped the floor by using muriatic acid to etch, then washed that down liberally with a garden hose. After drying, I used 2 coats of this product made by H&C: Silicone Acrylic in Pearl Gray. It's listed as a concrete stain. The product did not lift off over time, just wore down over use. My garage has a lift on one side and sees oil changes to engine/****** pulls over the years.

I have had excellent results with the POR15 process as a rust stopper/insulator. Having torn my '65 Vette dash out and rust proofed the "bird cage". That positive experience with this product has prompted me to join in here and ask what if any, I would need to do, to prep my concrete stained floor for this Armor POR15 product?

BreBar21, your floor looks great. I do like that shade of gray. Appreciate your posting pics after your final top coat.

Thanks again!

Regards,

Jim
 

BreBar21

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I believe the H&C stuff you used is a color-tinted sealer, right?? I think you will have to do something about it. I managed to leave the POR-15 directions at my house in Orlando and I'm back in South Florida now, so I can't remember exactly what they said about that. Don't hold me to it, but I think I recall something about grinding it off. It is also possible that I'm confusing that with previously epoxied floors. It will be able to cover the stain though. Like I said, the area around the water heater is from the stain used inside the house and the base coat covered that.

Since I don't have a definite answer for you, POR-15's customer service is tremendous, so I wouldn't hesitiate to call them and go over your questions.

I went with POR-15 because it's a working garage. The claim that you'll be able to just wipe up spilled oil, grease, etc, and say it won't chip, peel, or crack. For me, the prep work was minimal. I scrubbed the bad stains with the neutralizer, filled the chips in the floor, and swept probably 5 times to remove loose dirt. It wasn't bad. I'll be sure and post the top coat pics when I get everything done.
 

BreBar21

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Per the person I talked to at POR-15, he said to hit it with 220 grit, a scotchbrite pad, etc. I have a machine buffer, so I plan to get some 220 grit sheets and do the whole garage. Since the garage is small and I have the buffer, it shouldn't be too bad. The insane FL summer heat will make it a lot less fun, however. lol.
 
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462gilley

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I AM IN NO WAY CONNECTED TO THIS PRODUCT. I as with you want a great floor product for my garage. I have been happy with the results of all of the POR-15 products I have used since they have come out.

For those of you that are interested in a group purchase, please log on and say so on the POR-15 group purchase. Dave at POR-15 Depot will be watching it to see our interest. He told me if we have 10 orders he will cut us a 10% discount on the order.

I saw on their web site they have 5 colors. light grey, dark grey, beige, white, I can't remember the last one. I don't know if Dave at POR 15 Depot can post samples, or if he would mail out samples. This is something you would have to talk to him about.

Dave did tell me that there are only 2 places in the country that have the product at this time. POR-15 manufacturer, and POR-15 Depot. He is currently going out on a training session on this product.

Mike
 

DynoDave

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After he has that training, I'd love to hear any info/tips/comments he has to share on the product.

I can't say that I am in on a group buy, as I haven't yet decided what I'm going to do with my floor. But I like their other products, so this one interests me too.
 

bigdav160

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For those of you that are interested in a group purchase, please log on and say so on the POR-15 group purchase. Dave at POR-15 Depot will be watching it to see our interest. He told me if we have 10 orders he will cut us a 10% discount on the order.

What's an "order"? :headscrat

My garage is slightly larger than a normal garage at 1200 sq/ft

From their webpage:
"Kit will coat over 400 square feet with two covering coats of Floor Armor™"

OK, so mine would be three kits. :eek:

I'm still thinking. We're closing on another house in two weeks and I need to save some money to build another garage at the new house. Anyone have experience with stucco and red clay tile roofs?
 

Value

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I am ready to buy. I need product for 1200 square feet in tan please.
 
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Value

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How long to get the product from Por 15 depot? Is 6 hours of drying time enough before rain water hits the floor? Do I need to sand after the base coat if I apply the second coat the next day (24 hours later)?

Finally, Do I have to cut out all the concrete cracks or can I leave them mostly filled with the concrete filler (the stuff from Lowe's that has flexibility in it and is designed to fill concrete cracks) and then just add the recommended filler from Por 15?

Any input is appreciated.
 

BreBar21

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After he has that training, I'd love to hear any info/tips/comments he has to share on the product.

From my experience, the biggest tip is to cut the batch sizes in at least half and the second it starts to set up and string out, make a new batch.
 

BreBar21

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How long to get the product from Por 15 depot? Is 6 hours of drying time enough before rain water hits the floor? Do I need to sand after the base coat if I apply the second coat the next day (24 hours later)?

Finally, Do I have to cut out all the concrete cracks or can I leave them mostly filled with the concrete filler (the stuff from Lowe's that has flexibility in it and is designed to fill concrete cracks) and then just add the recommended filler from Por 15?

Any input is appreciated.

It took a few days for it to arrive in South Florida from POR-15 Depot. You seem pretty concerned with rain. Does your garage not close?? I applied the base coat and kept the garage closed until the next day. They range of drying time is anywhere from 4 hours to overnight, so you clearly have some flexibility. You can work around the afternoon showers. You do not have to sand after the base coat. I am sanding in order to get proper adhesion because there is two weeks in between coats because I'm out of town.

They say it'll cover hairline cracks in concrete. I used some concrete filler I had laying around to fill any chips in the floor. I believe it was the same thing you're talking about and it worked fine.
 
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BreBar21

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What's an "order"? :headscrat

My garage is slightly larger than a normal garage at 1200 sq/ft

From their webpage:

OK, so mine would be three kits. :eek:

They have a 2.5 car garage kit and a 3.5 car garage kit as well, so they have something to suit your needs.

And, since I have the brochure sitting here, these are the prices for everything:

Basic Kit:
1.5 car - $280
2.5 car - $370
3.5 car - $460

Deluxe Kit:
1.5 car - $505
2.5 car - $685
3.5 car - $965

The chips and clear make it a lot more expensive and it just wasn't worth the additional cost for me. :thumbup:
 
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Value

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I ordered the product. Big Bucks for the Deluxe kit for 1200 square feet.
When you add in the labor (at least 16-20 hours) the project will be expensive.

My question relates to the POR 15 sticking to old water based epoxy paint around my 4"-6" concrete edge/lip that most garage floors have in place.

I would like to save a lot of labor and just hand sand some of the lip's old epoxy off but not all of it. This would save me hours of work. Then, I could paint the base coat over it. Since there is NO TRAFFIC of any kind on the lip will this work? THat is, will the POR15 stick and dry to the old water based epoxy paint on the concrete lip?

Finally, I have a few inches of garage flooring which extends past the garage door and meets the driveway (typical stuff). So, Rain water will HIT this portion of the garage floor even with the door closed. How many hours does the POR 15 need to dry before some rain can hit the floor? I hope 6 hours is enough time for the floor to withstand some rain and not be ruined (bubble up).
 

Value

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I got my answers from POR 15 DEPOT. I can sand the lip with 80 grit paper and save a great deal of labor. For a more uniform look I will be renting a concrete sander for the garage floor and hand sanding the corners, edges, etc.

As for water the DEPOT recommended I cover the product with clear pastic sheeting (will the thin painter's plastic work?) for several hours. My plan is to let the product dry for 6 hours then cover the exposed outdoor product with the plastic. The next day repeat the process with the second coat. The third day I will do the same thing. If by chance I don't get rain one day I may be able to speed up the process.

The product looks excellent. I wonder how long the clearcoat (final) will last before needing an additional coat? Three years?
 

Value

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I'm very interested in a group buy. Not quite ready to commit but very interested.

I will keep you up to date on my POR 15 experience. I ordered a lot of product but so far nothing but headaches from the main office. THey screwed up the order and now I have to wait another week for the paint.
In addition, I doubt they get the order right a second time. POR 15 Depot has agreed to ship whatever product is missing from the SECOND shipment.
So far, not a good sign.

POR 15 Depot is honest and fair. The main office is another story.
 

Value

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I read the instructions three times and the "cheat sheet" five times. I am still NOT clear on when I add the vinyl chips. Do they go on the second coating of TAN POR 15 paint or do I throw them down after the FIRST coat of clear coat?

Also, when should I add the anti-slip aggregate? Do I need it? Should I add 50% to the final clearcoat? I want a nice look to the floor and I am concerned the anti-slip aggregate may mess that up.
 

DynoDave

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I read the instructions three times and the "cheat sheet" five times. I am still NOT clear on when I add the vinyl chips. Do they go on the second coating of TAN POR 15 paint or do I throw them down after the FIRST coat of clear coat?

I asked this question back on page 5 of this post. It sounded to me like they expected you to put down 2 coats of clear, with chips in between the coats. A lot of products only use one clear top coat, so that would be ab extra expense to using the POR15.

I also asked about resistance to weld spatter, but the POR15 Depot guy never came back to this post to reply. Until I hear otherwise, I have to assume the answer on weld spatter burn resistance is "not much".
 

BreBar21

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I read the instructions three times and the "cheat sheet" five times. I am still NOT clear on when I add the vinyl chips. Do they go on the second coating of TAN POR 15 paint or do I throw them down after the FIRST coat of clear coat?

Also, when should I add the anti-slip aggregate? Do I need it? Should I add 50% to the final clearcoat? I want a nice look to the floor and I am concerned the anti-slip aggregate may mess that up.


The instructions are not very clear. As I understand it, you are supposed to put a coat of clear down, broadcast the chips, and then reclear.

The aggregate confused the **** out of me as well. They don't tell you when and how to use it. I did not put any in the base coat and intend to mix it all in when I apply the topcoat since the 1 jar of aggregate is equal to 1 gallon of the armor.
 

POR-15 Depot

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First I want to say I'm sorry for the hit & run post a few weeks ago, The website didn't notify me of a topic reply as i expected and being out of state a couple of weeks since lead to this delay in posting again. I'll try and answer a few of the questions posted if i can. I have also personaly already talked with a few here on the phone, as I recall a few of the comments and questions. I have a very detailed 5 page instruction sheet if anyone cares to have it emailed to them drop me a request. It's in Word format. My direct email is david AT stoprust DOT net.
 

POR-15 Depot

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Dave,
You mention hot tire pickup. What about chemical resistance? ie., brake fluid, antifreeze, acetone, etc. How does POR-15 stand up to that stuff? Do you have individual test results?


Floor Armor is very resistant to the chemicals you mention. You will have the same type of resistance the normal POR-15 coatings has shown over the last 20+ years. I have not specific data in hand yet, but I am getting more and more every week. I hope to have more information soon.
 

POR-15 Depot

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Sounds interesting Dave.

My big concern about using an epoxy is the damage (burn marks) caused by welding/grinding, and the fading caused by welding (light). How does the urethane product stand up in comparison?

These are not *hi-temp* coatings and will burn. The most that would happen is burn marks. No release of the product should be seen. You can always touch up the surface over time as needed to bring the floor back to the new appearance.
 

POR-15 Depot

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After he has that training, I'd love to hear any info/tips/comments he has to share on the product.

A few tips or steps i can recommend...

Can Floor Armor™ be applied over existing floor coatings?
Yes. Areas with poorly adhering paint must be addressed and those areas need to be prepared by removing the paint. In areas where the existing coating is tightly adhering and is difficult to remove, scuff with 80 grit sand paper to give the surface adequate surface profile to promote adhesion of the first coat of Floor Armor™.

Also, sweeping and vacuuming the floor as well as cleaning the area with Marine Clean would be a great idea to make sure surface does not have anything that would compromise adhesion on it.

And on a legal note, when discussion removal of any coating it is important to stress that before removing any paint system that may have lead, they should contact the EPA to find out more from the National Lead Information Hotline at 1-800-424-LEAD or go to the following website: www.epa.gov/lead.

What is the re-coat window for Floor Armor™ and Floor Armor™ Clear Coat?

The cure times for both Floor Armor™ and Floor Armor™ Clear Coat are identical and are tied directly to the presence of ambient humidity like most of our other products. Keep in mind this is an estimate and actual cure times may differ.

% Ambient Humidity Timeframe
85% 4-5 hours
80% 5-6 hours
75% 6-7 hours
70% 7-8 hours
65% 9-10 hours
60% 10-11 hours
Less than 60% 12 plus hours

What about areas in need of repair with chips, cracks or deep scratches in the concrete?
There are several options:

 POR-Patch
 Epoxy Putty
 Or fill in area with a mixture of POR-15 Rust Preventive Paint and DRY sand. Sand has to be completely dry.

Also, if adding decorative chips and a clear coat, the chips will pull the eye away from areas that are irregular with minor imperfections.

What are the full cure times of Floor Armor™?
Surface should be ready for light foot traffic in 6-12 hours and normal foot traffic in 24 hours. Allow 48-72 hours for full cure, placement of heavy items such as tool boxes and vehicle traffic.


Is Floor Armor™ slippery? What about the gloss?


Floor Armor™ has a glossy finish. If safety is a concern due to the floor being wet, both kits come with anti-slip aggregate. The best way to apply this anti-slip aggregate is to mix it to the desired texture into the topcoat and then roll out.


How long will Floor Armor™ last? Does the addition of a clear coat increase the durability of Floor Armor™?

Floor Armor™ is engineered to have a permanent bond to concrete and will last for many years, if not a lifetime, in many cases. In areas where heavy traffic is a concern, the addition of a 3rd coat or a clear coat will make the coating more durable.

Will oil, gas, brake fluid, transmission fluid, or antifreeze affect Floor Armor™?
Floor Armor™ is much more resistant to chemicals than any of the other kits or concrete paints on the market currently. Floor Armor™ is a urethane and much more resistant to all chemicals (including oil, fuel, anti-freeze, etc) than the epoxies on the market. It is wise to wipe up such spills as they occur.

How do you apply the decorative vinyl chips?

Available in: blue mix, black mix and tan mix
The decorative chips are to be broadcast in the wet Floor Armor™ Topcoat (2nd coat).

As each 4’ x 4’ section is completed, broadcast the desired amount of chips by tossing chips underhand in the wet topcoat. Underhand tossing allows chips to fall flat and lay evenly. DO NOT throw chips side arm or over hand.

Keep the chip broadcast in each section consistent for a uniform look.

Apply clear coat according to directions in approximately 8-12 hours however recommend based on recoat window chart above.

* DO NOT MIX CHIPS WITH FLOOR ARMOR™ TOPCOAT OR CLEAR COAT


What about painting over new concrete?
New concrete must cure for at least 30 days at 75 degrees F prior to the application.
 
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POR-15 Depot

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What's an "order"? :headscrat

My garage is slightly larger than a normal garage at 1200 sq/ft

From their webpage:

OK, so mine would be three kits. :eek:

I'm still thinking. We're closing on another house in two weeks and I need to save some money to build another garage at the new house. Anyone have experience with stucco and red clay tile roofs?

Each invoice is an Order, as each ORDER is packaged by shipping address..

1200 sq/ft = 1 each 3 1/2 Car kit (800 sq/ft) + 1 each 1 1/2 Car Kit (400 sq/ft)
 

POR-15 Depot

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I read the instructions three times and the "cheat sheet" five times. I am still NOT clear on when I add the vinyl chips. Do they go on the second coating of TAN POR 15 paint or do I throw them down after the FIRST coat of clear coat? .

The decorative chips are to be broadcast in the wet Floor Armor™ Topcoat (2nd coat).

As each 4’ x 4’ section is completed, broadcast the desired amount of chips by tossing chips underhand in the wet topcoat. Underhand tossing allows chips to fall flat and lay evenly. DO NOT throw chips side arm or over hand.

Keep the chip broadcast in each section consistent for a uniform look.

Apply clear coat according to directions in approximately 8-12 hours however recommend based on recoat window chart above.

* DO NOT MIX CHIPS WITH FLOOR ARMOR™ TOPCOAT OR CLEAR COAT



Also, when should I add the anti-slip aggregate?

Aggregate should be added to the LAST coat. doen't matter if it's a color or clear coat. Use the while container with the last gallon. Be aware the aggregate will add a textured finish and you may loose some of the gloss due to the texture it creates..
 

POR-15 Depot

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THey screwed up the order and now I have to wait another week for the paint.
In addition, I doubt they get the order right a second time. POR 15 Depot has agreed to ship whatever product is missing from the SECOND shipment.
So far, not a good sign.

POR 15 Depot is honest and fair. The main office is another story.

Value,

First I want to appoligize for the issues with your order, I arrived back in the office this afternoon after being away on a 4 state tour and 2600 miles of driving.. Dead tired to say the least.. Anyway, Don informed me of the issue and i started working on it as soon as I was unpacked. In fact Im doing these posts as I wait for a reply from a VP of POR-15. It's nice to have a few private ways to find them at 2AM their time. In the last 3 months since we introduced Floor Armor public on the website we have shipped out over 100 kits with only two issues, I hate to say you just happen to be one of two issues that did happen and I'll do what ever it takes to get it resolved. The other issue we had was also posted here. What are the odds both our screw ups appear on the same thread :) Without a second thought, I ordered a shipment out to them so they had enough coating for the job to be finished. And trust me your issue will be resolved to the best of my ability. Feel free to contact me personaly if you feel the need, but Don is more then able to keep you updated. In fact I understand you recieved an email tonight from Don with some more information. I'll have more details for sure by Monday AM, but if I hear anything before then you will be informed.
 
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