Portaband stand

[blacksuit99]

Well I have to say I am a little upset with you guys. Someone here should have let me know that #1 I needed a portaband and #2 I needed a stand for it! I’ll forgive you guys this time lol.

I have found myself doing more and more metal projects and the angle grinder cut off wheel is getting old. I only have a small garage so space is at a premium. Started looking online and saw the portabands and swag tables and thought I needed something like that! Well stole some ideas here and there on the net and this is what I came up with. Going to paint and either add an on/off switch or foot pedal. Also gonna put a bigger table on it.I’ll update when I’m done in case it helps anyone else. Post yours up if you have done the same.

 

[bri_man57]

Looking forward to seeing it with a table on it! Nice work!!

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[FJ80 fan]

Go with the foot pedal, you won't regret it!

 

[Bodj Built]

Looks good, but ditch the tall tube on the right. If you're cutting a longer, thin piece you'll run into it.

 

[Kaizen]

How is it secured at bottom? Great idea to secure to wall or post


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[blacksuit99]

I’m not sure I’m understanding what you mean. Any piece would hit the saw before the upright.

 

[blacksuit99]

How is it secured at bottom? Great idea to secure to wall or post


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If you notice the u shape piece in the back, that is what secures the bottom. Once set in it seems to be pretty sturdy. I plan on putting some holes up front that I can drop a L shaped round bar into to keep it from sliding past the front of the bench.

 

[Bodj Built]

I’m not sure I’m understanding what you mean. Any piece would hit the saw before the upright.

Imagine you have an L shaped piece, with the long end pointing toward the right vertical tube. If you only need to cut a small piece of the lower "L" off, the top part will hit. There are ways around this (flipping the part), but I'd try to keep that right side as clear as possible

 

[bdbecker]

I’m not sure I’m understanding what you mean. Any piece would hit the saw before the upright.

Say you have a 20" long by 9" wide piece of sheet steel and you want to trim an inch off the long edge to make it 20"x8". If you get rid of the tube in back, you'll be able to cut until it hits the saw body. At that point, you rotate the work piece 90 degrees and nibble off the ~3"x1" piece of drop, and then rotate back to 90 and continue your cut for another 3". Repeat the rotate and nibble until you have the whole thing cut.

With the tube in place, you'll be limiting how long of a work piece you can cut. With the tube removed, there is no constraint.

That is a clever design using pins into the handle. I wonder if it can be reconfigured to pin over the top of the handle from the one side instead of having two uprights, or moving that one support to the rear behind the body of the saw itself.

 

[blacksuit99]

Say you have a 20" long by 9" wide piece of sheet steel and you want to trim an inch off the long edge to make it 20"x8". If you get rid of the tube in back, you'll be able to cut until it hits the saw body. At that point, you rotate the work piece 90 degrees and nibble off the ~3"x1" piece of drop, and then rotate back to 90 and continue your cut for another 3". Repeat the rotate and nibble until you have the whole thing cut.

With the tube in place, you'll be limiting how long of a work piece you can cut. With the tube removed, there is no constraint.

That is a clever design using pins into the handle. I wonder if it can be reconfigured to pin over the top of the handle from the one side instead of having two uprights, or moving that one support to the rear behind the body of the saw itself.

Thanks for pointing some of that out! I’ll give it some thought for sure!

 

[Slednut]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product, I bought this stand to do a stainless exhaust system and with a foot pedal is very handy.

I'm thinking about making different extensions for the blade guide so it will be easier to cut a straight line. I bought a miter gauge which is useless.

 

[rpcraft]

I opted to buy one from SWAG. I have used it so much. Even my buddy with a full size unit is kind of jealous because the blades are so cheap and last so much longer comparativley, lol. I think the only regret I have in my unit is that I did not get it powder coated, but I am lucky enough now that I am able to powder coat it myself, just as soon as I find the time to tear it down, blast it, and powder it!

 

[bdbecker]

Looking forward to seeing the finished product, I bought this stand to do a stainless exhaust system and with a foot pedal is very handy.

I'm thinking about making different extensions for the blade guide so it will be easier to cut a straight line. I bought a miter gauge which is useless.

What is the issue with the miter gauge/slot? Is the table too short for the miter gauge to engage the slot correctly?

 

[StormcrowAz]

Just finished mine a couple weeks ago. It’s actually the second one, I had an older Harbor Freight unit (pre-Bauer) that treated me well for the last 8-9 years. I retrofitted the old stand to fit the new saw.

Old saw

Stand with the old saw removed

Neat idea with the handle, never even thought of that. I ditched the handle entirely and made a little metal insert instead.

Completed

And the foot pedal is definitely a must-have for me. The old saw had a trigger lock, but didn’t find one on the Bauer, so zip-tied the trigger for constant-on.

 

[Kenstone1]

Looks to be from the "when in doubt make it stout" school of engineering, just me though.
Sorry for what I typed right there.

For power a hose clamp over the trigger and plugged into a power strip with a switch.
Not elegant but simple.
jmo,


Edit: And duct tape over any motor vents that are level with the table.
It'll keep the chips out of the motor...
.

 

[Slednut]

What is the issue with the miter gauge/slot? Is the table too short for the miter gauge to engage the slot correctly?

Because the top and bottom guides are so far apart and not adjustable like a regular band saw the blade wonders as it goes through the material.

Marking and free handing the cut is what I've been doing. Having a disc/belt sander really helps.

I am working on an extension for the top guide.

 

[icecactus]

I opted to buy one from SWAG. I have used it so much. Even my buddy with a full size unit is kind of jealous because the blades are so cheap and last so much longer comparativley, lol. I think the only regret I have in my unit is that I did not get it powder coated, but I am lucky enough now that I am able to powder coat it myself, just as soon as I find the time to tear it down, blast it, and powder it!

Don't bother with the powder coat. It looks cool but a buddy of mine, and myself both wish we would not have gotten it. The metal shavings get hot and sorta stick into the powder making them a pita to get off.

 

[Slednut]

I don't want to poach this thread, I made this and still had to adjust the miter gauge so it would cut 90 degrees. The nice thing is it use to cut an arc so it did fix that, cuts are nice and straight.

 

[Kenstone1]

I don't want to poach this thread, I made this and still had to adjust the miter gauge so it would cut 90 degrees. The nice thing is it use to cut an arc so it did fix that, cuts are nice and straight.

Nice

 

[blacksuit99]

I don't want to poach this thread, I made this and still had to adjust the miter gauge so it would cut 90 degrees. The nice thing is it use to cut an arc so it did fix that, cuts are nice and straight.

Definitely going to have to keep this in mind!

 

[blacksuit99]

Looks to be from the "when in doubt make it stout" school of engineering, just me though.
Sorry for what I typed right there.

For power a hose clamp over the trigger and plugged into a power strip with a switch.
Not elegant but simple.
jmo,


Edit: And duct tape over any motor vents that are level with the table.
It'll keep the chips out of the motor...
.

Should have mentioned, this square tubing was free. It was left over from a rod rack my buddy and I made. I’m also going to make spacers for the top rod through the handle. That way the top won’t budge either. Not sure I’ll go with the foot pedal, I’m thinking more about one the push button switches.

 

[BD1]

I used a plate for the table of my saw. Drilled holes to match guide holes, welded angle iron to bottom, and add a wheel for base.
Originally I used it in vise . After seeing how handy it is, I added a base. Saw stays permanent and slot in table allows for blade replacement without removing saw. This saw was $25.00 because casting is busted off.
I use all the time for my metal artwork.

 

[Kenstone1]

Saw Stand: Something Hacked/CHEAP and Fast

I was building something and was tired of cutting stuff with a hacksaw so I went HF and bought a portable bandsaw.
After a few cuts hand holding that saw it became apparent I needed a stand but didn't have the time to fab one.
I ended up clamping that saw in a cheap Workmate and cut with it that way for a long time before building a vertical stand.

Yep, hose clamp on the trigger, plugged into a power strip with an on/off switch, and tape over the motor vents.

 

[rpcraft]

Re: Saw Stand: Something Hacked/CHEAP and Fast

I've seen a lot of guys just cut the flat plate to stick on the face and then mount the saw in a vice and call it done. I probably should have saved some money and done that but oh well.

 

[Gutman]

Seconding on Slednut's hijack...

Brilliant!

Slednut- Can you provide a couple more pics/details on your mod? May be a sideview or a closer view? Can it be adjusted or is it fixed, but to a smaller gap?

I've got the exact same setup (minus your mod, of course) and I'm experiencing the same issue.

 

[Slednut]

Seconding on Slednut's hijack...

Brilliant!

Slednut- Can you provide a couple more pics/details on your mod? May be a sideview or a closer view? Can it be adjusted or is it fixed, but to a smaller gap?

I've got the exact same setup (minus your mod, of course) and I'm experiencing the same issue.

Here's a side photo, starting from the top there are four pieces to the extension.

The piece that bolts to where the original guide block was. The second spacer (not painted) that is 1/2" high that is bolted to the third piece that extends down to the bottom (fourth) piece that the guide block is bolted to.

There are three spots in the third piece where I can bolt the bottom piece to so it is adjustable. I can also drill and tap more spots in it if I need to.

On the third piece the distance between the spacer at the top and the bottom of it is the same as the bottom piece that holds the guide block.

Another mod I'd like to do is if possible make a mount for the guide blocks that put them 90 degrees to the tires of the porta-band. It would take the twist out of the blade. This would allow me to cut longer pieces.

 

[blacksuit99]

Here's a side photo, starting from the top there are four pieces to the extension.

The piece that bolts to where the original guide block was. The second spacer (not painted) that is 1/2" high that is bolted to the third piece that extends down to the bottom (fourth) piece that the guide block is bolted to.

There are three spots in the third piece where I can bolt the bottom piece to so it is adjustable. I can also drill and tap more spots in it if I need to.

On the third piece the distance between the spacer at the top and the bottom of it is the same as the bottom piece that holds the guide block.

Another mod I'd like to do is if possible make a mount for the guide blocks that put them 90 degrees to the tires of the porta-band. It would take the twist out of the blade. This would allow me to cut longer pieces.

Very cool idea, may be stealing this after I get further along. Thanks for posting.

 

[Gutman]

Slednut,

Thanks for the additional details and the pic. That tells the full story.

I've added this mod to my worklist, though I might think about it a bit more and see if I can't adjust your design and make the guide block sliding and held in position with a thumbwheel or something.

Keep us posted if you devise a way to rotate the guide blocks too!

I'm looking to add some work stops to mine, and possibly a sled that uses both slide channels and allows tilting of square tube.

 

[blacksuit99]

Got the table made and put on. Used aluminum for the the table but may make one out of steel. I think I’m going to weld the piece of angle on the front and use pins to keep it from sliding back. Ordered a switch from northern tool which should be here in a few days.

 

[Rick B.]

Would like to see somebody include some dimensions or sketches
with these projects

 

[bdbecker]

Would like to see somebody include some dimensions or sketches with these projects

I'd bet most of these tables start as a general concept and are built to fit using materials on hand. When I built my stand, I had a piece of plate I wanted to use as the top. I cut a piece of cardboard to match the size of the plate, and then trimmed the cardboard to fit the saw. I transferred the screw locations to the cardboard by installing the screws into the saw and lightly tapped the cardboard with a hammer. I then put the cardboard back on the plate and traced what needed to be trimmed and marked the holes. The only measurement I probably made was how long to cut the legs.

View media item 108027

 

[Kenstone1]

Would like to see somebody include some dimensions or sketches
with these projects

OK
Here's a couple of a hundred builds on u-tube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=portaband+saw+stand

Here's one about as simple/cheap as it gets:

That's where I got some ideas before I built mine.
Yep, boils down to what materials (metal/wood/re-rod/cardboard) you have on hand and how simple or complex you decide to OVER build it.

 

[blacksuit99]

OK
Here's a couple of a hundred builds on u-tube:
https://www.youtube.com/results?search_query=portaband+saw+stand

Here's one about as simple/cheap as it gets:

That's where I got some ideas before I built mine.
Yep, boils down to what materials (metal/wood/re-rod/cardboard) you have on hand and how simple or complex you decide to OVER build it.

This is garagejournal... you definitely need to go overboard on it!

 

[BTL-A4]

Here's a side photo, starting from the top there are four pieces to the extension.

The piece that bolts to where the original guide block was. The second spacer (not painted) that is 1/2" high that is bolted to the third piece that extends down to the bottom (fourth) piece that the guide block is bolted to.

There are three spots in the third piece where I can bolt the bottom piece to so it is adjustable. I can also drill and tap more spots in it if I need to.

On the third piece the distance between the spacer at the top and the bottom of it is the same as the bottom piece that holds the guide block.

Another mod I'd like to do is if possible make a mount for the guide blocks that put them 90 degrees to the tires of the porta-band. It would take the twist out of the blade. This would allow me to cut longer pieces.

I have one of these tables with a Makita. It cuts pretty straight, but I wouldn't mind making a guide. What did you use for the bearing wheels on the guide?

 

[ndnchf]

Slednut - I've been studying your guide block mod photos and description. Do I see a washer between the blocks at the circled location ? Is that to correct blade alignment? Thanks.

 

[glockman]

The second best thing I did with my portaband after the swag table was this foot switch.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B005GRDZO0/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[ndnchf]

Thanks to slednut for the inspiration. I made a drop down blade guide for my Bauer.

 

[Slednut]

That looks great ndnchf, the washer was an attempt to get a 90 degree cut with the miter gauge. I soon found that I had to adjust the miter gauge. I don't remember how many degrees but it's at least a couple.

I do like that it cuts straight through flat stock now with the gauge and I don't get an arc cut.

 

[lilscorpion]

Slightly different approach than others here - made a traditional laminate top and router plate-like insert out of aluminum years back.



I did I this way so I’d have the benefit of a Ben top unit but be able to use it in multiple formats. I can drop it into my router table.



Or use/store it in this minimally intrusive mobile mini table attached to the wall with French cleats.



Maybe my favorite - installed in a slide-away drawer.




The portable bandsaw is perfect for the fabricator that has minimal space. Their only limits on your creativity is throat depth.

 

[ndnchf]

I'm pleased with the drop down roller guide I made. But if I were to do it again, I'd make one change. For the lower adjustable piece I welded 2 bolts in place and used wing nuts on the back. I found that I need to loosen and pull the blade up to have enough room to pull the welded bolts out of the holes in the upper piece. If I did it again, I'd weld nuts to the front and use thumb screws from the rear. This would make it easier to adjust with no need to fiddle with the blade. I don't expect to be changing position very often, so its not a big deal. But passing this along for someone else who may make one.