Post your acid stained floor!

[El_Diablo]

I've looked through many pages in this section without many clearly defined posts of what I'm looking at. I figure this gives everyone a chance to post what manufacture, process, products, color and finish they used so that those of us trying to decide can have a reference.

So go ahead and post away

 

[CDriver]

EL Diablo, hope you don't mind me asking some questions in your thread but maybe you can answer... Can a clear coat be added over an acid stained floor? Will it be just as protective as epoxy base/clear system? I love the look of metallic epoxy but the cost is above what I'm willing to spend. Seems like an acid stained / clear coat would be a great alternative solution.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Yes, a clear coat is mandatory.


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[El_Diablo]

Clear is the only way the stain will actually "pop" and not just look like dirty concrete. There are a number of clears available from what I've seen. It's all in finding one that is durable enough for the use that you intend.

 

[Armorpoxy]

Here are some photos of a recent project we supplied. Two colors of stain, one coat of SPGX.

This floor was in VERY bad condition originally. It was grinded to a #120 and the customer wanted this 'distressed' look so hence the staining. There were a lot of prior repairs, patch, etc so the staining did a good job of hiding and visually distracting the problems in the floor.

This was for the office/waiting room of a commercial auto service center.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Here are a few...

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Couple more...







Important to note these were all floors done by our customers not a hot-shot installer.
Nice results can be obtained very easily and we have a small sample kit to make the learning process and color selection easier...
http://www.legacyindustrial.net/products/concrete-stain-and-dye/concrete-acid-stain-sample-kit.html

 

[El_Diablo]

Can you guys please add info as to what prep products, color of stain and finish products were used?

 

[zporta]

Any negatives to acid staining a garage floor?

Getting ready to build a house and spring and running a lot of ideas through my head. Plan on staining the basement floor that will have radiant heat. The garage will also have radiant heat but not sure about the concrete finish. Might possibly just so with a simple satin sealer

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

The acid-stain creates a variegated look. If you enjoy uniformity, this is not your product.

Here is a very good set of instructions
http://www.legacyindustrial.net/index.php?dispatch=orders.get_file&file_id=42&preview=Y


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[ChargedUp!]

I've had a local flooring installer tell me they wouldn't warranty a stain like this in the garage. This leads me to believe it won't hold up. Will a stain last in a working garage?

 

[Armorpoxy]

A stain and sealer system would not be as thick as a 100% solids epoxy system so long term life would be less. Of course if you maintain and add a coat to the sealer every 5-7 years or as applicable the floor should last indefinitely. Nothing lasts forever and all floors at some point may require some TLC.

 

[Brad J.]

Our basement floor was stained with A waterbased stain that looks like acid based products. It was sanded with a floor sander, stained with a pump sprayer, clear coated with a quality clear (no waterbase) cement sealer, and then regular floor wax applied.

Friend that applied the stain didn't want to mess with neutralizing the acid stain in a finished room with baseboards and stuff. That is why we went with the waterborn stain.

It's brown and looks like the others on here. Can't tell the difference.

As I look back I wish we would have just used a clear like Armor Poxy sells instead of the floor wax. It's been three years and needs another coat of wax but the wax scuffs fairly easy. Wouldn't look that great if it was high traffic but it holds up good for us.
Oil dripping from the cars eats the wax a little where the tires sit over the winter leaves bad black marks.

If I wanted to strip the wax and go with a clear system how would you do it?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I've had a local flooring installer tell me they wouldn't warranty a stain like this in the garage. This leads me to believe it won't hold up. Will a stain last in a working garage?

He is not offering a high performance sealing product like our Nohr-S Polyurea.
2-3 coats over it will have no issue protecting against the ills of a garage.

 

[Armorpoxy]

A single coat of our SPGX would do the trick and give many, many years of outstanding service.

 

[hercules633]

I see this is an older thread, but would also like to see some stained or dyed concrete floors. I love the epoxy look and have even had the great pleasure of assisting on 2 installs. I think staining or dying will work better for me. I have in floor heating, not up and working yet.
Let us know what products and colors you used please

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Do yourself a favor, obtain a sample kit and do some tests in a corner of your garage or where a toolbox will go later on.

Every floor reacts with these stains differently. Our sample kit contains some benign sealer as well, helps to get the full effect.

Good luck

 

[hercules633]

I would like to get some ideas in what stain color to go ahead with. I like bright.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Acid stains are all earth tones. The colors come from naturally occurring minerals.

 

[hercules633]

Legacy, what's your recommendation for bright?

 

[pablo94sc]

I've always been curious about this. About how much does something like this cost per sqft?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

I've always been curious about this. About how much does something like this cost per sqft?

Can be done for less than a 1.00 psqft with a decent sealer included.

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Legacy, what's your recommendation for bright?

Azure Blue. Need to seal it well to get the color to come out bright.

 

[69LT1]

Can be done for less than a 1.00 psqft with a decent sealer included.

Is that dollar figure a DIY number? Any idea how it would hold up in the north to road salt?

 

[LegacyIndustrial]

Is that dollar figure a DIY number? Any idea how it would hold up in the north to road salt?

Yes. Our SEC sealer does fine.


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[Birdman89]

Are you able/willing to ship to Canada? If not can you recommend any Canadian vendors for stained concrete or epoxy systems?

 

[Armorpoxy]

Hi,
We ship to Canada daily. No duty, but additional shipping fees apply, and customer is responsible for any GST/HST and clearance fees, if any that get charged by our carrier, normally FedEx Ground.
Thank you.

 

[Two Pump Chump]

Is something like this OK for a one-time use application, stain and sealer 1,300 sf bare concrete ?

18V ONE+ 4 GALLON BACKPACK CHEMICAL SPRAYER Kit

Enter the RYOBI 18V ONE+ System with the 18V ONE+ 4 Gallon Backpack Chemical Sprayer Kit. The powerful motor provides ease of use and convenience with j...

www.ryobitools.com

 

[Toolfool]

Is something like this OK for a one-time use application, stain and sealer 1,300 sf bare concrete ?

18V ONE+ 4 GALLON BACKPACK CHEMICAL SPRAYER Kit

Enter the RYOBI 18V ONE+ System with the 18V ONE+ 4 Gallon Backpack Chemical Sprayer Kit. The powerful motor provides ease of use and convenience with j...

www.ryobitools.com

I use the cheap pump sprayers from Lowes/HD.

 

[Two Pump Chump]

I think your diet ***** !!! The videos all show cheap hand held plastic pump 1 or 2 gallon units . . ..

 

[RPH]

4 color acid stain. Then ghostshield densifier and then 8505. Floor is not shiny but it’s not gray.

 

[rnixon]

Here's mine, Polyura top coat

 

[CamMark]

I've been waiting to add mine here. Just finished up yesterday.



This is a single color, Taupe from Eagle, diluted 1:1 and topped with Ghoastshield 4500 and 8510.

The slab was power troweled smooth, but no other finishing. Prep was a thorough sweep, wash and scrub with the etch & clean then rinse and squeegee dry. I did mist the floor with water before laying down the stain as suggested on the label. I left it to work for 6 hours almost exactly before hitting it with neutralizer and rinsing. There were probably 3 full cycles of neutralizer/scrub/rinse/squeegee before we called it good for sealing.

 

[Toolfool]

Thanks for reminding me, I finished the floor in the garage area of my building.
First pic is floor neutralized and washed, lines masked, stained and sealed.
Second pic is after three coats of Dayton Superior TufSeal J35. Did two more coats after this.

 

[CowboyNeil]

I've been waiting to add mine here. Just finished up yesterday.



This is a single color, Taupe from Eagle, diluted 1:1 and topped with Ghoastshield 4500 and 8510.

The slab was power troweled smooth, but no other finishing. Prep was a thorough sweep, wash and scrub with the etch & clean then rinse and squeegee dry. I did mist the floor with water before laying down the stain as suggested on the label. I left it to work for 6 hours almost exactly before hitting it with neutralizer and rinsing. There were probably 3 full cycles of neutralizer/scrub/rinse/squeegee before we called it good for sealing.

For being Taupe I am surprised by how almost purple colored it is. Wow. Looks good though. I have been thinking of going this way myself.