mark-NJ
Well-known member
Ah....the HF start. Got it.
And, yes, I've managed to get in the path of it. not fun
And, yes, I've managed to get in the path of it. not fun
Post your random questions about welding
- Thread starter VR6ix
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05snopro440
Well-known member
You can also get those Lincoln foundation books for free in some cases as a PDF from Lincoln Electric's website. I just googled the name of the book I was interested in and there it was.
SMAW is stick welding. Since you're talking about a 10lb spool, I assume you mean FCAW (flux core).
matt_i
Well-known member
What I was taught is that the AC weld on aluminum keeps the oxide layer "broken up". Despite the inert gas bath its somehow prevalent underneath the gas shield and is more tenacious than that of steel.
Relative to high frequency, that's a pulsed voltage "ripple" which helps to ionize the air-arc-gap more quickly. If you thought of a graph and your DC was a horizontal line, a sine wave would be superimposed on the line at that level, instead of the sine wave being centered around zero and having equal positive and negative swings.
I've taught a few people to start to tig weld - not to build race frames out of titanium but just brackets and such, I have them cut 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1 steel flat bar and lay them side by side (with benchtop grounded). I setup on a corner of the bench where they can get very close and look directly at what I'm doing with a second helmet to demo the process. Then on their own, use No filler rod, just focus on moving the puddle around, not dipping the tip, and eventually following the gap to fuse the pieces together and think about the metronome in your head. The most common mistake I see is that the torch gets laid over to the side too far and the puddle gets really elliptical. Like anything if you are driven enough to research, watch videos and try to improve your techniques by taking on different jobs and practicing often, you will get better at it.
Relative to high frequency, that's a pulsed voltage "ripple" which helps to ionize the air-arc-gap more quickly. If you thought of a graph and your DC was a horizontal line, a sine wave would be superimposed on the line at that level, instead of the sine wave being centered around zero and having equal positive and negative swings.
I've taught a few people to start to tig weld - not to build race frames out of titanium but just brackets and such, I have them cut 2 pieces of 1/4 x 1 steel flat bar and lay them side by side (with benchtop grounded). I setup on a corner of the bench where they can get very close and look directly at what I'm doing with a second helmet to demo the process. Then on their own, use No filler rod, just focus on moving the puddle around, not dipping the tip, and eventually following the gap to fuse the pieces together and think about the metronome in your head. The most common mistake I see is that the torch gets laid over to the side too far and the puddle gets really elliptical. Like anything if you are driven enough to research, watch videos and try to improve your techniques by taking on different jobs and practicing often, you will get better at it.
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speed bump
Well-known member
You are correct but in the case of the original question I should have said GMAW as they were talking about sheet metal.
Great resources for sure. I ended up getting hard copies of a few of the books after using the PDFs . For the price, they can't be beat.
Adding a link in case anyone is interested:
ntsqd
Well-known member
I've got this Coyote, and a Palm Tree. Need suggestions for the best filler rod. I'm thinking to attach the Yote in the "going away" position rather than the head-on position if that matters any.
GTAW is my preferred process, but I can splatter on something that vaguely resembles a weld bead with a GMAW if forced to.
GTAW is my preferred process, but I can splatter on something that vaguely resembles a weld bead with a GMAW if forced to.
Asking the hive-mind collective again, before I go and make something custom...
Are there any extra-long back caps on the market that allow a 7" tungsten to work with a stubby cup? On a 17 air torch.
And bonus question, a 17 torch back cap thread is 3/8-32 ultra fine thread, correct?
Are there any extra-long back caps on the market that allow a 7" tungsten to work with a stubby cup? On a 17 air torch.
And bonus question, a 17 torch back cap thread is 3/8-32 ultra fine thread, correct?
GaryM909
Well-known member
I had a 3/8 tap for those. I am not sure of the thread count but it's the same as the threads you will find on light fixturesAsking the hive-mind collective again, before I go and make something custom...
Are there any extra-long back caps on the market that allow a 7" tungsten to work with a stubby cup? On a 17 air torch.
And bonus question, a 17 torch back cap thread is 3/8-32 ultra fine thread, correct?
Asking the hive-mind collective again, before I go and make something custom...
Are there any extra-long back caps on the market that allow a 7" tungsten to work with a stubby cup? On a 17 air torch.
And bonus question, a 17 torch back cap thread is 3/8-32 ultra fine thread, correct?
Yes, 3/8 x 32 is correct.
As far as back caps go, is the 300L/57Y02 not long enough?
3 SERIES CONSUMABLES (10N)
Our 3 SERIES CONSUMABLES (10N) are designed to enhance the performance and efficiency of your TIG welding setup. Compatible with torch models like CK17, CK18, C
www.ckworldwide.com
4 SERIES (STUBBY) CONSUMABLES
4 Series (Stubby) consumables for 3 Series TIG torches to fit your specific welding needs.
www.ckworldwide.com
Yes, 3/8 x 32 is correct.
As far as back caps go, is the 300L/57Y02 not long enough?
3 SERIES CONSUMABLES (10N)
Our 3 SERIES CONSUMABLES (10N) are designed to enhance the performance and efficiency of your TIG welding setup. Compatible with torch models like CK17, CK18, C4 SERIES (STUBBY) CONSUMABLES
4 Series (Stubby) consumables for 3 Series TIG torches to fit your specific welding needs.
Torch is a CK CX17 FX. Came with the 3 backcaps but no part number markings on them.
6" electrodes fit fine with the long backcap and the stubby cup. 7" electrodes offer a little bit too much stickout for most applications
I'd rather buy, or make, a longer backcap, than buy a set of standard-length cups and not use the stubbies until the electrodes are short enough. Tempted to modify the long cap I have, cut it and epoxy something in to make it longer... I have enough varieties of 7" tungsten blends to last a looooong time!
Jswain
Well-known member
Not ideal but you can cut the tungsten in half, then you can use a shorter back cap as well.Torch is a CK CX17 FX. Came with the 3 backcaps but no part number markings on them.
6" electrodes fit fine with the long backcap and the stubby cup. 7" electrodes offer a little bit too much stickout for most applications
I'd rather buy, or make, a longer backcap, than buy a set of standard-length cups and not use the stubbies until the electrodes are short enough. Tempted to modify the long cap I have, cut it and epoxy something in to make it longer... I have enough varieties of 7" tungsten blends to last a looooong time!
Just have to stay organized with your tungsten, or if you only use one type then no worries.
right but I'm trying to avoid choping them all in half, seems wasteful.I missed the part about using a stubby cup... I see the issue now. If you decide to modify a back cap, you'll want to make sure that it is air tight and won't leak once you have shielding gas running through it.
It might be worth contacting CKW to see if they have any tricks up their sleeve. You can't be the only person who's wanted to run a setup like this. Heck, maybe if enough people ask them about it, they'll bring an extra long back cap to market? You never know...
joe49
Well-known member
You can puchase longer cups.
https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...source=iu&ictx=1&vet=1&biw=1366&bih=619&dpr=1
https://www.google.com/search?sca_e...source=iu&ictx=1&vet=1&biw=1366&bih=619&dpr=1
welder4956
Well-known member
I think that is the down side of using the stubby gas lens on a large torch. I don't think anyone makes a "ultra long" back cap for the 17 style torch. If you were using the smaller 9 style torch you can get a 41V24L ultra long back cap, but the threads are 5/16" so it won't fit the 17 style torch.Torch is a CK CX17 FX. Came with the 3 backcaps but no part number markings on them.
6" electrodes fit fine with the long backcap and the stubby cup. 7" electrodes offer a little bit too much stickout for most applications
I'd rather buy, or make, a longer backcap, than buy a set of standard-length cups and not use the stubbies until the electrodes are short enough. Tempted to modify the long cap I have, cut it and epoxy something in to make it longer... I have enough varieties of 7" tungsten blends to last a looooong time!
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