power tool organizer - need ideas

[vavet]

I've seen several ways people use 3 or 4" PVC that they notch and hang up to serve as holders for the cordless drills, impacts drivers, etc. I like that idea and want to use it. I have the Gladiator RTA (ready to assemble or the less expensive) line of cabinets in my garage. They're thin sheet metal- 0.036 inch (20 gauge?)thickness.
The bottom has a flange around it that fits a 2x4 nicely. I'm thinking of taking one of them off the wall, fitting a 2x4 widthwise and running a couple screws from each side through the sheet metal and into the 2x4. The PVC pipes could then be attached to that 2x4.
I don't love the idea of drilling a hole in the floor of the cabinet to add additional screws, although I know that would make it stronger. there's no way to countersink it with the metal being that thin and I don't want a screw head on the floor of the cabinet where it can snag or interfere with whatever I put in the cabinet.

I feel confident my solution will work, but I thought I'd see if there are other better ways to do this.

 

[GreenIron]

I'm glad you brought this up, as I'm building a garage and need ideas.
I'll be watching.

 

[Half-fast eddie]

Would a wafer head screw be too much of a protrusion?

 

[welder4956]

I just ordered one of these, still waiting for it to arrive:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B08QBCMQJ2/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[Monza Harry]

Vavet, you can add a chamfer to sheet metal pretty easy for your flat head screws. First drill the holes where you'll need them, through the cabinet and the 2X lumber (counterbore for the nut if that is desired for flush/unseen hardware) remove the 2X and then "Countersink" deep enough for the head plus the sheet metal into the block. Then just use the screw head to flare the sheet goods into submission. I have used this, but before cell phone cameras and it is now buried under a glued on rubber sheet, and I was very happy with the out come. [I used the plywood under my toolbox top, and just the machine screw with a nut on the bottom, for the first one and I tried a metal form and a punch on another project with lesser results as that required a good aim! Both were #10 Machine screws IIRC. I have more to do soon(ish) I'll add pic's if that timeline works out. If you want to use flat head wood screws to attach, I would make a form, by drilling and tapping for the screw size you are planning on using [10-24/32 with matching machine screw for the form and a #10 wood screw etc.] (steel or aluminum would be best and be re-usable for the future) with the same C'Sink outlined above and again just use a machine screw to form your C'fer. Harry

 

[Honch]

You could purchase a dimple die like this:



To dimple the bottom shelf of the cabinet like this:



Or you could make one from thick piece of metal, drill a hole slightly larger than the fastener you want to use, then countersink the hole so the fastener sits approximately 1/16" under flush. Now you have a female die and you can use the screw as the male die.

 

[gahrajmahal]

Here is what I came up with. Works great in the shop and especially on the job site.

Cordless Drill/Driver Dock Tote, Ditch your tool bag

First the photos, then the explanation (so you can avoid my boring dribble). The inspiration from the internet: What I made:

www.garagejournal.com

 

[slodat]

This is what I did.

 

[tarbellb]

Dang Slodat! Looks nice

How did you get the guns in the drawer to stay upright? Hole in the base or?

 

[slodat]

From my shop thread:

Thanks guys! One of the revelations I had a few years ago with organization is that going vertical is how you get the density. Bins in the drawers allow things to go vertical.

Made this simple insert for the super deep drawer in the 52” cabinet to hold six drills/impact drivers. Worked out nicely. 3/4 PVC with mdf framework to hold it up.






Loaded up:

 

[NakeDiesel]

Here is some of my organized chaos