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Power Wagon Resto-Mod Thread...

glue4u

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Dec 9, 2010
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8
Curious as to tracking/panhard bar for front. I didn't see it in any of your pics.
 
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Nor'Easter

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Nov 30, 2012
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Maine
I have a '46 power wagon body on my 12 valve mud race truck on a shortened 96 dodge frame. Good work so far.

Here is my spooling up at the starting line:

16877063267_63d0285bab_b.jpg

I think you have a thread on CompD right? I've followed it over there. :rocker:

To whoever asked:

As for the front track bar, I bought a stock bar to use to build my mounts. If I want to in the future I can easily upgrade it to an adjustable one. You can see the frame mount in the photo of my temporary "coilover".
 

NakeDiesel

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Sep 6, 2007
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oklahoma
Yes, my truck build is on Comp D from the beginning. I also have the power wagon body swap on here under my shop build thread, I use that thread for all the shop stuff as well as actually building and upgrading the shop.

Thanks, that photo is the one I used when we printed out trading cards for the truck to hand out at races this year. Here is what the truck typically looks like after a run:

17058489556_d39be48841_b.jpg


Nor Easter are you planning on running an intercooler on the truck? I noticed you notched out the fire wall to set the engine back into the cab, so I assume you are running the radiator up front as well. With a 1/2 inch between the firewall and engine, the 12 valve barely fits in the normal engine bay without a radiator or intercooler. My radiator is in the bed of the truck and my intercooler is a water to air tucked up under the dash.
 
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Nor'Easter

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718
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Maine
Utilizing the stock fan and clutch I have 6" of space for radiator and grill. I'll be using an aftermarket fan and clutch delete like I did on my Ford, which tucks the fan in even closer. I'll have plenty of room for both the rad and cooler. Piping will be the only mountain to climb. :thumbup:

I have an NV5600 on it's way so as long as that fits behind where I currently have the engine, all will be well.

I don't recall how far back your engine is, but my balancer overhangs the crossmember by 2". The entire pan is free to drop down should it need to, that should give you an idea of it's placement.
 

NakeDiesel

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oklahoma
I used a 96 Dodge's frame, not a power wagon frame, so our mountings are different. I used the stock engine mounting location on the 96 frame. I'm in the middle of pulling the engine to change cams, put a new fully worked over hamilton head on it, longer connecting rods and cutting the tops of my pistons to increase compression. Shooting for over 1000 hp for next season. Also looking into what it would take to move the front axle a foot forward so that the axle is positioned under the dampner to get a better weight distribution on the truck.
 
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Nor'Easter

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Maine
I used a 96 Dodge's frame, not a power wagon frame, so our mountings are different. I used the stock engine mounting location on the 96 frame. I'm in the middle of pulling the engine to change cams, put a new fully worked over hamilton head on it, longer connecting rods and cutting the tops of my pistons to increase compression. Shooting for over 1000 hp for next season. Also looking into what it would take to move the front axle a foot forward so that the axle is positioned under the dampner to get a better weight distribution on the truck.

That's right I remember that now. Yeah I really hate having to jack up the engine when the pan gasket needs replacing so, this will be nice.

IMG_1104_zpspn3enyos.jpg


IMG_1105_zpswu78ms1w.jpg


IMG_1101_zps9cs6irgx.jpg
 
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Nor'Easter

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I spent about six hours working out the dent in the drivers fender, and correcting the twisted grille frame and fender support brackets. Lucky for me "not perfect" matches the rest of the truck.

Still deciding on whether I want to delete the butterfly hood hinge and make it flip up.

IMG_1125_zpsgvvphxhh.jpg


IMG_1130_zpsjbtbrqrh.jpg
 
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Nor'Easter

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718
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Maine
Other than dropping some money on a set of King 2.5 coilovers, the front suspension is done. As is the steering linkage, and I also pulled out the big crease in the drivers fender, which took about 6 hours. I've got an NV5600 coming on Friday, so I can install that and start building the doghouse and floorpans, then finalize the pedals, which I need to add #3 to.

IMG_1123_zps7m1pvv4e.jpg


IMG_1144_zpskwcsqspj.jpg


IMG_1153_zpswizfqpt9.jpg


IMG_1151_zpsfgzhio3w.jpg
 

Strouty

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Mar 21, 2010
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Looking good, the pedals are going to be tight. After Dad did his transmission tunnel there was barely any room. Steering linkage was fun too. His was with an F350 diesel drive train.
 

Mr onetwo

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Apr 6, 2011
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Coastal Maine
I'm a little late to this party......awesome build and fabrication!:thumbup: I would love to do a PW/Cummins build like this!Good luck and keep the updates coming!:beer:
 
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Nor'Easter

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Maine
Looking good, the pedals are going to be tight. After Dad did his transmission tunnel there was barely any room. Steering linkage was fun too. His was with an F350 diesel drive train.

I'm basing it off of using the regular boots I wear (5" at the widest). I've got 13" of room, could gain another inch if I were to not install the kick panels.

The pedals don't have to be real wide, maybe 2" or so. It will be tight. I don't think there is a way for me to use the factory pedal box like I did in the photo. Easy enough to make a custom set though.

I switched to the earlier NV5600 6 speed, it will be here tomorrow. :willy_nil
 

Strouty

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I'm basing it off of using the regular boots I wear (5" at the widest). I've got 13" of room, could gain another inch if I were to not install the kick panels.

The pedals don't have to be real wide, maybe 2" or so. It will be tight. I don't think there is a way for me to use the factory pedal box like I did in the photo. Easy enough to make a custom set though.

I switched to the earlier NV5600 6 speed, it will be here tomorrow. :willy_nil

I will try and post a picture of what he did, I keep trying to get him on here, but he doesn't like to spend time with the internet unless he is on craigslist or an auction site. :headscrat
 
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zmotorsports

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Subscribed.

Fantastic craftsmanship.

Thanks for sharing.

Nice Wells Index milling machine also. By the looks of it, I am assuming it is one of the larger ones, 10"x54" table?

Mike.
 

MP&C

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What's the option/feasibility of shifting the engine & trans toward the passenger side a couple inches for additional room for boots?
 

vintagespeed1956

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Dec 24, 2014
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RanchoCucamonger, CA
man, what a great project! really nice work! i only have one ***** so far...

rear panhard is too short and the bracket support is a little lacking, plus might be a cold weld there on the back of it.....axle tubes are thick, turn up the heat.

love the build tho!

IMG_0859_zpsjkl8rfgz.jpg
 

Kamhillbilly

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Dec 20, 2014
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Location
Kaministiquia Ontario
how far into the cab does the engine poke , I have the possibility of picking up a Fargo power wagon I believe its a 48 . I would like to put it on my 1990 w250 cummins frame if possible , your build is looking great
 
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Nor'Easter

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Maine
rear panhard is too short and the bracket support is a little lacking, plus might be a cold weld there on the back of it.....axle tubes are thick, turn up the heat.

You come on down and fix it then. :headscrat

What's the option/feasibility of shifting the engine & trans toward the passenger side a couple inches for additional room for boots?

Zero, I want the crank centered within the chassis, which it is currently. I have no worries about coming up with a solution. :thumbup:

how far into the cab does the engine poke , I have the possibility of picking up a Fargo power wagon I believe its a 48 . I would like to put it on my 1990 w250 cummins frame if possible , your build is looking great

Over 8".

Subscribed.

Fantastic craftsmanship.

Thanks for sharing.

Nice Wells Index milling machine also. By the looks of it, I am assuming it is one of the larger ones, 10"x54" table?

Mike.

Thanks. It's a 747 so, 9x46.
 
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RogueFab

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Jun 27, 2013
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430
Location
Oregon
I agree on the rear pan hard length. Run another pass on the tube, add a couple gussets, and leave room to put in a longer one later (if you don't want to fix it now). Or tell all of us to shove it and keep building! Keep up the nice work man!
 
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Nor'Easter

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I agree on the rear pan hard length. Run another pass on the tube, add a couple gussets, and leave room to put in a longer one later (if you don't want to fix it now). Or tell all of us to shove it and keep building! Keep up the nice work man!

Pan hard is staying for now. Under normal operating travel the lateral movement is only around 1/4".

I'm not against adding to the bracket itself. It would need to run to the housing, as anymore gusseting to the passenger side would contact the bag under full compression.
 

vintagespeed1956

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Dec 24, 2014
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Pan hard is staying for now. Under normal operating travel the lateral movement is only around 1/4"....anymore gusseting to the passenger side would contact the bag under full compression.

you're right of course, but if you're towing with the rig and a cross-wind starts pushing that big cab around, that 1/4" could be a problem. longer rod, less angle, less lateral, blah blah.

as for bracing, what about an over the top truss?

0523071715a.jpg


not a real good pic but if you zoom in you'll see the truss where the UCA bolts into. 3/4T d44.
75ee.jpg


i'd like to see the upper TB mount on the outside of the frame rail behind the axle and the lower as far as practical on the back of the axle tube.

if you keep front & rear TBs the same length then you're axle movement will feel much more natural and driveable, especially if towing.
 
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Nor'Easter

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you're right of course, but if you're towing with the rig and a cross-wind starts pushing that big cab around, that 1/4" could be a problem. longer rod, less angle, less lateral, blah blah.

as for bracing, what about an over the top truss?

0523071715a.jpg


not a real good pic but if you zoom in you'll see the truss where the UCA bolts into. 3/4T d44.
75ee.jpg


i'd like to see the upper TB mount on the outside of the frame rail behind the axle and the lower as far as practical on the back of the axle tube.

if you keep front & rear TBs the same length then you're axle movement will feel much more natural and driveable, especially if towing.


If the bar was going to mount to the outside of the frame, it would have to be angled from the axle backward, which would increase the force it experiences doing the same job. The bar would have to be angled atleast 10 degrees back to clear the fully compressed airbag. Now the bar is trying to control both the lateral movement AND change the path of the axle centerline which is set by the four link. This can be proven with trig.


The bar is staying as it is. If the truck is loaded the bar will be even closer to parallel, and I'm not quite sure about the "wind pushing the cab" thing because that would turn into a roll force not just a lateral force, and obviously you know that a track bar does nothing for roll. That and the cross section of old truck cabs is tiny.
 

ed_v

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Sep 15, 2007
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Location
Kentucky
****... Now I want a power wagon!!!

Looks great. Keep us updated. Thanks for sharing.

Ed
 
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