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Preparation for MaxJax

Gasket

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Feb 10, 2009
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23
FUNFER2, I thought there was supposed to be a minimum of 4" from the bolts to the edge of the floor. It looks like yours is right at the edge.
 
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427HISS

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Aug 15, 2005
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746
Nope, it's actually 4.5" from the edge to the plate, not the bolt so, it's apx.
5" to the bolt. If you look at the photo, I built a second dummy wall to house some of my scale cars. That's why you think the column looks close to the garage wall.
I will someday, cut out in between the studs and slide in my acrylic box's and place in the cars. They will be flush with the wall and will have LED bulbs to light the cars up. Hope, it's cool when it's all done,.....someday.
 
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wachuko

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May 15, 2008
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690
Location
Ocala, FL
You call that a mess!?? hhahahahahaha... I will show you what a mess is as soon as I get back home and upload a photo :lol_hitti

Thank you for sharing the photos (and the hot babe!!! :drool: ) . Looking great!! Enjoy it. :thumbup:

My MaxJax-

The next plan is to finish the garage,.......finally !
Flooring will be the interlocking tiles from "Swiss Trax" ,like the "Race Deck"

I will be having a "Group Buy" on "club cobra" ,if any of you would be interested, just let me know.

2a7sxex.jpg
 

Gasket

Member
Joined
Feb 10, 2009
Messages
23
Nope, it's actually 4.5" from the edge to the plate, not the bolt so, it's apx.
5" to the bolt. If you look at the photo, I built a second dummy wall to house some of my scale cars. That's why you think the column looks close to the garage wall.
I will someday, cut out in between the studs and slide in my acrylic box's and place in the cars. They will be flush with the wall and will have LED bulbs to light the cars up. Hope, it's cool when it's all done,.....someday.

Cool idea.
For you safety, I wanted to make sure you knew not to have the post at the edge of the slab. Looks like you have it under control.

Did you build the cobra?
 

427HISS

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Aug 15, 2005
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746
I hope,.....I have it under control. :confused: :)
Yes, I built it in 2001. I'm very excited that in will be in a coming issue of Kit Car Builder Magazine. I'm building a new aluminum 427 side oiler punched out to 482 cubes with apx. 625-650 HP/TQ.
Should be fun !
 

G-force

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Jul 2, 2006
Messages
739
Location
Oregon
After mocking up my Maxjax post layout I find that I have some cracks in the concrete near where I will be bolting the posts. The cracks are not huge and none are closer than 12" of the posts mounting points. My slab is 4.5"

Should I be worried about these.
 

anaxagoras

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Joined
Nov 17, 2007
Messages
74
Location
CT
After mocking up my Maxjax post layout I find that I have some cracks in the concrete near where I will be bolting the posts. The cracks are not huge and none are closer than 12" of the posts mounting points. My slab is 4.5"

Should I be worried about these.

G-Force I find myself asking the same question, My slab is 4" of 4kpsi with wire mesh. I have some long hairline cracks in my floor. I emailed Dannmar and they said as long as you are farther than 6" from the cracks you should be good, of course the cracks on my floor are within 6" of where I would plan on mounting the thing :-(.
 
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G-force

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Jul 2, 2006
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739
Location
Oregon
G-Force I find myself asking the same question, My slab is 4" of 4kpsi with wire mesh. I have some long hairline cracks in my floor. I emailed Dannmar and they said as long as you are farther than 6" from the cracks you should be good, of course the cracks on my floor are within 6" of where I would plan on mounting the thing :-(.

Well that's good to hear. I actually slightly changed mounting locations to get me 12" from the cracks. My original plan had them within 3" of crack. I figured that's not a good idea and moved them.
 
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Gabriel J

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Mar 5, 2008
Messages
155
Location
Cape Cod, MA
I didn't get too many pics of the install today as I was doing it by myself, but I will get some better pictures when I get the time, and do a little mini review.

img1996t.jpg

img1997g.jpg


One more project to wire up this week...

img1998r.jpg
 

wachuko

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May 15, 2008
Messages
690
Location
Ocala, FL
Sweet!! Congratulations!
:thumbup:

I didn't get too many pics of the install today as I was doing it by myself, but I will get some better pictures when I get the time, and do a little mini review.

img1996t.jpg

img1997g.jpg


One more project to wire up this week...

img1998r.jpg
 

427HISS

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Aug 15, 2005
Messages
746
If you're near cracks, I would suggest using a "anchor epoxy" to help with strength.
 

weicm3

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Sep 5, 2008
Messages
143
Hey Gabe,

You snagged both wall cabinet and air hose bargains at lowes. I'm so envying you...

where did you get that air compressor? I'm thinking about upgrading mine as well.
 
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Gabriel J

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Mar 5, 2008
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Location
Cape Cod, MA
Hey Gabe,

You snagged both wall cabinet and air hose bargains at lowes. I'm so envying you...

where did you get that air compressor? I'm thinking about upgrading mine as well.

I couldn't resist the deals...I bought the hose reels BEFORE the compressor..But once I had a reel, I told my wife I "needed" a compressor.

I wanted to get a 2 stage 60 gal and surprisingly the best deal came from Sears online. They had a 20% off $500 or more sale and it happened to be available for pickup at my local store, no shipping cost. I ordered it on a Friday and it arrived the next Wed...All the other sites I checked (Northern tool. etc)..were more $$$ and had 15-25 day estimated shipping dates!

-Gabe
 

38Chevy454

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Dec 26, 2006
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4,036
Location
Cincinnati, OH
Gabe, that looks nice, just a quick question for the compressor: shouldn't you have a flexible line from the compressor to the wall? Any vibrations or movement of the compressor and the stationary wall would seem to be an invitation for fatigue cracks to initiate and grow in your lines or fittings. With someday an ultimate failure potential?

I just picked up my MJ and will work on installing it over the next couple weekends. Can't wait to actually have a real lift. Many years with jacks and jackstands.........
 
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UPSHIFT

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Aug 28, 2008
Messages
188
Location
Simi Valley, CA
I didn't get too many pics of the install today as I was doing it by myself, but I will get some better pictures when I get the time, and do a little mini review.

img1996t.jpg

img1997g.jpg


One more project to wire up this week...

img1998r.jpg

Gabe,

Glad to see everything came together for you.

I wanted to be sure you were aware you can raise the Garage Door Rails to clear your car and allow you to open the Garage Door in the Summer Heat.
Any Garage Door installer would be able to do this for you.

FYI

Gabe
Dannmar
 

G-force

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Jul 2, 2006
Messages
739
Location
Oregon
I anchored down my posts today finally. 9 out of the 10 anchors went in PERFECT achieving 100 ft lbs at about 1/8"-3/16" below the concrete.

The anchor that I had a problem with started to deform when I pounded it into the concrete. It took A LOT more pounding to get it set 5/8" below the surface, and it barely raised at all to achieve the 100 ft lbs.

This should probably be fine don't you think? Since the anchor is still biting and easily able to grab 100 ft lbs.

It's one of the anchors to the side of the post.

Tho only other thing I noticed was that when I swing the yellow arms all the way out to the side of the post, they scrape on the concrete floor, but maybe that's just an issue of an unlevel surface (although they all do it exactly the same)
 

bazar01

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Joined
Jan 30, 2009
Messages
326
Location
Leesburg, GA
I anchored down my posts today finally. 9 out of the 10 anchors went in PERFECT achieving 100 ft lbs at about 1/8"-3/16" below the concrete.

The anchor that I had a problem with started to deform when I pounded it into the concrete. It took A LOT more pounding to get it set 5/8" below the surface, and it barely raised at all to achieve the 100 ft lbs.

This should probably be fine don't you think? Since the anchor is still biting and easily able to grab 100 ft lbs.

It's one of the anchors to the side of the post.

Tho only other thing I noticed was that when I swing the yellow arms all the way out to the side of the post, they scrape on the concrete floor, but maybe that's just an issue of an unlevel surface (although they all do it exactly the same)

Man, I wish I had concrete as hard as that one where the anchor barely moved. That was great. If it's still about 1/2" below, you are good. The bolt should still have about an inch left to engage the anchor.

I had the same issue with the swing arms scraping the surface in the lowest position. I also thought it must be the uneven concrete surface. I wish they should have increased the base plate thickness another 1/8" to give it more clearance.
 

Junkman

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Dec 18, 2006
Messages
6,616
Location
Northeastern CT
If you find that the arms are hitting the concrete when you swing them all the way to the side, then you can always put a 1/8" spacer under each of the column bolts to raise the column. Personally, I wouldn't get upset about it. Even the best of concrete floors is going to have some deviation in them.
 

tatra

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Dec 2, 2007
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pirate contest city
still waiting for mine to arrive after some misunderstandings on my part..........i suggested making up a steel template for the mounting holes and moght go one dtep further and make up 1/8 steel shims as well..........sorry to hear of the issues others are having but will be applying others lessons to my install and hopefully it will be trouble free........yea , right:lol_hitti
 
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Gabriel J

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Mar 5, 2008
Messages
155
Location
Cape Cod, MA
still waiting for mine to arrive after some misunderstandings on my part..........i suggested making up a steel template for the mounting holes and moght go one dtep further and make up 1/8 steel shims as well..........sorry to hear of the issues others are having but will be applying others lessons to my install and hopefully it will be trouble free........yea , right:lol_hitti

If you want a tip.......Don't waste your money on a 5/8" bit!!!!!!!!! I bought brand new 5/8" and 7/8" bits to drill into my concrete and after drilling the first pilot with a 5/8 realized it's too small to accurately center in the lift's baseplate....Buy a 3/4" bit! It's nearly the same size as the openings on the plate virtually assuring that all the holes will be properly centered.

-Gabe
 

tatra

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Dec 2, 2007
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pirate contest city
that makes sense seeing as how gabe , i believe, mentioned that they were reaming the holes larger to allow for easier installation............cheers for the heads up............:beer:
 

427HISS

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Aug 15, 2005
Messages
746
Here's mine and a friends.My garage is total disaster. Too many projects at once. I'm almost ready to place my order for my SwissTrax flooring.
 

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heathy

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May 14, 2009
Messages
55
What's a recommended brand of anchor epoxy? Also it seems that the anchor that comes with the MaxJax is open on the bottom end wouldn't the epoxy just end up in the anchor if I fill the hole with epoxy and shove the anchor in?
 

heathy

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May 14, 2009
Messages
55
Ok that makes sense. It's different than other anchor bolts I've used for server racks.

Thanks
 
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