Pressure switch wiring

[lalojamesliz]

I just had my cousin wire up my speedaire 4xa59 with the eaton B27CGF30B040 5hp 1 phase starter box.
He couldn't figure out how where to connect the pressure switch to on the starter. On the pressure switch both wires are on one side and in the diagram on the switches cover it shows a wire on each side. Then I saw someone say to connect the wires to the L1 and the other wire to the connector behind L1.
Anyone familiar with this? If I push in the coil button it works great.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

Then I saw someone say to connect the wires to the L1 and the other wire to the connector behind L1.

The pressure switch connections are done right.

I believe the connections are as you saw someone else say. Did the starter come with a wiring diagram?

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[lalojamesliz]

Yes here are the papers it came with

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

It appears your cousin wired the load side wrong. The motor connections should come off of here, not directly off the contactor. The wires will have to be moved to T1 and T3.

As for the pressure switch connections, one wire will connect to L1, and the other one will connect to the terminal behind it.

The coil is 240 volts, and half of it comes pre-wired. The pre-wiring takes 120 volts, runs it thru the overload controls, and to one half of the coil. The field side is the switch, so you will tap off L1 to get the other half of 120, go to the switch, and connect the wire returning to the other half of the coil, which is the terminal behind L1.

You'll also have to set the overload dial, it's the little yellow dial.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

I just had my cousin wire up my speedaire 4xa59 with the eaton B27CGF30B040 5hp 1 phase starter box.
He couldn't figure out how where to connect the pressure switch to on the starter. On the pressure switch both wires are on one side and in the diagram on the switches cover it shows a wire on each side. Then I saw someone say to connect the wires to the L1 and the other wire to the connector behind L1.
Anyone familiar with this? If I push in the coil button it works great.

The pressure switch is wired correctly per the embossed label on it

however, the motor wires are incorrect.

You have no overload protection because whoever wired that connected the motor feed wires to the bottom of the contactor instead of the overload relay

Need to move the large wires down to the overload relay- T1 and T3. Looks like there is already a jumper from T2 to L3 which is needed to prevent tripping of the overload relay since you are using a single phase motor and that is a 3 phase starter.

 

[lalojamesliz]

Its wired wrong! Oh man ha ha ha
Thanks for catching that guys
Right now the wires from the motor are on T1 and T2 and the supply wires are on L1 and L2.
That's what you guys are seeing correct? The supply wires come in from the left lower side and the motor wires come in from the right lower side. The pressure switch wires come in from the bottom right side. Just want to be sure

 

[lalojamesliz]

I'm sorry, I'm a little confused. The pressure switch has a wire next to "line" and another next to "motor"
Does it matter how I connect these to the coil? Like should I connect the "line" wire to the front or back connector?
Thanks guys

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

I'm sorry, I'm a little confused. The pressure switch has a wire next to "line" and another next to "motor"
Does it matter how I connect these to the coil? Like should I connect the "line" wire to the front or back connector?
Thanks guys

For my OCD, I would wire the line side to L1, but in reality, it really doesn't matter, as it's a set of contacts. Not sure what the code book would say.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[lalojamesliz]

So motor wires t1 and T3 right?
I'm a little OCD as well

 

[lalojamesliz]

I looked around the forum to help wherever I could but I didn't know as much as I would like to give advice ha ha ha

 

[wyliesdiesels]

So motor wires t1 and T3 right?
I'm a little OCD as well

yes

is there a jumper from T2 to L3?

 

[lalojamesliz]

yes

is there a jumper from T2 to L3?

Yes sir
Now I just plumb it up, install a regulator/filter and enjoy
Later I'll do a cooler/fan. Now to sell my craftsman 30 gallon toy compressor

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

Yes sir
Now I just plumb it up, install a regulator/filter and enjoy
Later I'll do a cooler/fan. Now to sell my craftsman 30 gallon toy compressor

I take it you've got it working now? If so, glad to hear!

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[lalojamesliz]

I'm at my job right now but I'll do this when I get home. I'm just happier you guys were able to help me figure this out!

 

[Dustball]

On the pressure switch, both wires need to be either on the L1 side or L2 side, not one wire on L1 and one wire on L2. The way you have it is fine.

 

[lalojamesliz]

On the pressure switch, both wires need to be either on the L1 side or L2 side, not one wire on L1 and one wire on L2. The way you have it is fine.

Sweet! Thanks man

 

[lalojamesliz]

I wired up like you guys said and when I turned on my disconnect box to supply power to the magnetic starter box I was expecting the compressor to turn on automatically but nothing happened. I think it's because the pressure switch says min. start 100psi
I can start the motor if I push in the coil button but I'm waiting for the replacement tank outlet valve to arrive so I can get the tank to hold pressure. Do you guys think it can be this?

I fell asleep before I posted this

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

I wired up like you guys said and when I turned on my disconnect box to supply power to the magnetic starter box I was expecting the compressor to turn on automatically but nothing happened. I think it's because the pressure switch says min. start 100psi

I can start the motor if I push in the coil button but I'm waiting for the replacement tank outlet valve to arrive so I can get the tank to hold pressure. Do you guys think it can be this?



I fell asleep before I posted this

It appears that its wired correctly.

Did you turn the pressure switch on? If it's in the off position it will not run.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[lalojamesliz]

It has no switch
I want to get a switch that has a auto/off lever switch but I still need to find a regulator/filter and I'm trying to find a nice one $$$

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

It has no switch
I want to get a switch that has a auto/off lever switch but I still need to find a regulator/filter and I'm trying to find a nice one $$$

Searching the part number pulls up an image of what appears to be the same pressure switch that has a lever.

To test the starter wiring, force a connection in the pressure switch. This can be achieved by either forcing the contacts to close on the pressure switch, or simply taking the wire off of one of the terminals and placing it under the other terminal to complete the circuit. (You can also use a piece of wire, but this is 120 volts, so it's not the safest option).

If it works when forcing the connection, it leaves the pressure switch to be the culprit. I have never seen a compressor pressure switch without an override lever, maybe it got broken off by the previous owner?

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[TRWham]

Looks to me like you have both sides of the pressure switch connected to L1. You do not have a complete control circuit from L1 to L2.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

Looks to me like you have both sides of the pressure switch connected to L1. You do not have a complete control circuit from L1 to L2.

It looks right to me. The coil connection is directly behind the L1 terminals. But it's hard to tell from the angle of the photo. I would check would be if the pressure switch is good, considering I believe it's a used compressor.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[wyliesdiesels]

Looks to me like you have both sides of the pressure switch connected to L1. You do not have a complete control circuit from L1 to L2.

that may be the issue.

If the coil is 240v, then one side of the coil should be connected through the overload relay to L1, and the other side of the coil should be connected through the pressure switch to L2

 

[TRWham]

It looks right to me. The coil connection is directly behind the L1 terminals. But it's hard to tell from the angle of the photo. I would check would be if the pressure switch is good, considering I believe it's a used compressor.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

Could be. Perhaps the overload is open?

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

Could be. Perhaps the overload is open?

Possible, but I don't think so. OP said it works of he pushes the coil in. Pushing the reset is easy, so he can try that to eliminate that.

I personally, from the photos, believe the starter is wired right, but maybe the pressure switch is shot. Only way to find out would be force a connection in the pressure switch, or check with a multimeter for continuity.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[TRWham]

Possible, but I don't think so. OP said it works of he pushes the coil in. Pushing the reset is easy, so he can try that to eliminate that.

I personally, from the photos, believe the starter is wired right, but maybe the pressure switch is shot. Only way to find out would be force a connection in the pressure switch, or check with a multimeter for continuity.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

The overload relay only opens the control circuit. If you close the contactor manually it has no effect.

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

The overload relay only opens the control circuit. If you close the contractor manually it has no effect.

Ah, makes sense. I've worked on tons of old school overloads, not the newer equipment.

OP, try pushing the RESET button.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[Dustball]

I think it's because the pressure switch says min. start 100psi

The pressure switch comes set from the factory to turn on the compressor when the pressure goes below 140 psi and turn off the compressor when the pressure reaches 175 psi. There is a differential of 30-40 psi between the on and off setting. The "min 100 psi" means you can adjust it down to start at 100 psi which would then equate to between 130-140 psi when it stops.

Adjustment screw A shifts both set points at the same time the same amount. Adjustment screw B changes the lower set point higher or lower while leaving the upper set point where it is.

 

[TRWham]

Ah, makes sense. I've worked on tons of old school overloads, not the newer equipment.

OP, try pushing the RESET button.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

Thinking further, not sure if relay could be open without opening load side contacts. Old school bimetallics just open load directly. Relay may also act on load contacts. Wouldn’t hurt to try reset.

 

[Bert_]

Thinking further, not sure if relay could be open without opening load side contacts. Old school bimetallics just open load directly. Relay may also act on load contacts. Wouldn’t hurt to try reset.

I have never seen an overload relay that opens the load directly. They all have a set of contacts that opens the coil on the contactor.

 

[TRWham]

I have never seen an overload relay that opens the load directly. They all have a set of contacts that opens the coil on the contactor.

That’s what I have seen also, but the diagram for that XTOB relay shows a connection I was not sure about.

 

[Terry D]

I know Im getting into this conversation late. has anyone verified coil voltage, we assume its 240, but the OP needs to check. You will see a voltage rating stamp on the front or side of the coil. The coil is a separate removable part from the contactor, so make sure you are just looking at the coil. Hopefully its 240. The overload relay and the pressure switch are wired in series with each other, and they are just breaking one line of the 240. If either of these switches open, the coil will deenergize. The other side of the 240 goes right from the line to the coil. As already mentioned, you need to test continuity of the overload relay and the pressure switch. Or removing them from the circuit by jumping them out one at a time. Main thing here is safety, we don't know your level of skill with electric, there is 240 volts on that contactor with the power on. There are ways just to check it by following your voltage with a meter. But this is done with power on, and you are inserting probes on terminals. Please don't attempt this if you are not confident.

 

[Terry D]

Another stupid question, is the tank possibly full of air.

Sent from my SM-G960U using The Garage Journal mobile app

 

[Kevin Essiambre]

@lalojamesliz did you get it working yet? There's plenty of things here to check.

Shut the power off, and check the coil voltage. Ensure the label states 240 volts (might say 230 or 208-230 or similar).

While the power is off, grab a multimeter and check to see if there is continuity on the pressure switch terminals where your wires are connected, and the opposite side too for good measure. One side may work and the other might not. With no air in the tank, the pressure switch should have continuity. If there is not, there may have been a switch on it like the one I posted earlier. See if it looks like something was there. If there appears to have been a switch, and with no air in the tank you have no continuity, try to get the broken part to turn 90° clockwise. If nothing happens or there was no switch, see below. If you have no multimeter, see below.

Next, push the reset button on the starter, and turn the power back on. If it doesn't start, **** the power off again.

So you have no continuity on the pressure switch. Take one wire off the pressure switch, and connect it to the other one under the same screw. Turn the power back on. If the compressor starts, you've determined that you need a new pressure switch.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU RUN A COMPRESSOR WITHOUT A PRESSURE SWITCH!!!

By placing the wires together in the pressure switch, you are ensuring that the starter is working as it should. If it works when the wires are under the same screw, but not when they're on seperate terminals, it's because the pressure switch is not making a connection.

I've tried to make this as easy as possible to understand without spelling out every single thing.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

 

[lalojamesliz]

I'm sorry everyone I have been very busy and completely forgot about this. My mother in law has been in the hospital for kidney and liver failure . Her kidneys were at 10% and the liver is bad as well.
cirrhosis.. and today my wife said she's getting better again. That lady is like a cat! This isn't the first time she almost passed for the same thing but we're hoping her body picks itself up again.

 

[lalojamesliz]

Searching the part number pulls up an image of what appears to be the same pressure switch that has a lever.

To test the starter wiring, force a connection in the pressure switch. This can be achieved by either forcing the contacts to close on the pressure switch, or simply taking the wire off of one of the terminals and placing it under the other terminal to complete the circuit. (You can also use a piece of wire, but this is 120 volts, so it's not the safest option).

If it works when forcing the connection, it leaves the pressure switch to be the culprit. I have never seen a compressor pressure switch without an override lever, maybe it got broken off by the previous owner?

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

I know it's weird that I look up the same part number and only see the switch with a switch/lever. The date on the tank certification is in 2006 so I'm sure the switch we all see is a newer version. I don't see anything broken on the pressure switch I have now.

I

 

[lalojamesliz]

that may be the issue.

If the coil is 240v, then one side of the coil should be connected through the overload relay to L1, and the other side of the coil should be connected through the pressure switch to L2

So remove the pressure switch line that's on the rear of L1 and connect it to L2?

 

[lalojamesliz]

Ah, makes sense. I've worked on tons of old school overloads, not the newer equipment.

OP, try pushing the RESET button.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

I tried the reset button but nothing happened

 

[lalojamesliz]

@lalojamesliz did you get it working yet? There's plenty of things here to check.

Shut the power off, and check the coil voltage. Ensure the label states 240 volts (might say 230 or 208-230 or similar).

While the power is off, grab a multimeter and check to see if there is continuity on the pressure switch terminals where your wires are connected, and the opposite side too for good measure. One side may work and the other might not. With no air in the tank, the pressure switch should have continuity. If there is not, there may have been a switch on it like the one I posted earlier. See if it looks like something was there. If there appears to have been a switch, and with no air in the tank you have no continuity, try to get the broken part to turn 90° clockwise. If nothing happens or there was no switch, see below. If you have no multimeter, see below.

Next, push the reset button on the starter, and turn the power back on. If it doesn't start, **** the power off again.

So you have no continuity on the pressure switch. Take one wire off the pressure switch, and connect it to the other one under the same screw. Turn the power back on. If the compressor starts, you've determined that you need a new pressure switch.

UNDER NO CIRCUMSTANCES SHOULD YOU RUN A COMPRESSOR WITHOUT A PRESSURE SWITCH!!!

By placing the wires together in the pressure switch, you are ensuring that the starter is working as it should. If it works when the wires are under the same screw, but not when they're on seperate terminals, it's because the pressure switch is not making a connection.

I've tried to make this as easy as possible to understand without spelling out every single thing.

Sent from my new phone. Autocorrect may have changed stuff.

Not yet but I'll try to work on it tomorrow morning. I'll try to see of it's a 240v coil but I think it is
I looked up the starter and I found the brochure or whatever this is and it had this on one of the pages.
I have a Eaton B27CGF30B040

 

[lalojamesliz]

I'm out of time right now but I need to read and get familiar and be comfortable with messing with it. I'll read your guy's directions better on my break in a while