This is what I do with any philips driver that tends to cam out. I just use a bench grinder. Word of warning, don't get too aggressive with how much of the tip you remove. Remove too much and then you have a screwdriver that cams out more.
preventing cam-out on Phillips screws
- Thread starter BTL-A4
- Start date
This is what I do with any philips driver that tends to cam out. I just use a bench grinder. Word of warning, don't get too aggressive with how much of the tip you remove. Remove too much and then you have a screwdriver that cams out more.
After reading about this trick some time ago I grabbed a little tub of lapping compound. It must have scared all the bad screws away, because I have not had a cam-out since getting - but not using - it!
X2 very good at preventing cam out.
I thought JIS standard has long expired and is now encompassed by DIN standards? Any new DIN Phillips driver should be compatible.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
jptbay. You are correct. Sadly, a lot of American made screwdrivers (Craftsman in particular) still don't follow the DIN standard. That's why you buy your Phillips screwdrivers from Asia and Europe.
jonesg
Well-known member
Shake and Break philips adapter for air hammer will get anything out.
toolaholic
Well-known member
These are my favorites . Link to amazon but you can find then elsewhere. Wiha 32092 Slotted And Phillips Insulated Screwdriver Set, 1000 Volt, 6 Piece https://www.amazon.com/dp/B001U3FOIY/?tag=atomicindus08-20
toolaholic
Well-known member
Avenging Bankroll
Banned
nothing
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Legion Prime
Well-known member
They made them all fancy now. The one I used to have just had a hex section in the middle for a wrench and a squaredrive on the end. I can see advantages to both. Adding in the air hammer makes one hell of a difference either way. LOL
dagofast
Well-known member
After reading about this trick some time ago I grabbed a little tub of lapping compound. It must have scared all the bad screws away, because I have not had a cam-out since getting - but not using - it!
See? You KNOW it works when you don't even have to open the can!s:bounces
Bigblockyeti
Banned
I didn't see where anyone mentioned this yet but I just push harder.
dagofast
Well-known member
ssss
See? You KNOW it works great when you don't even have to open the cans
After reading about this trick some time ago I grabbed a little tub of lapping compound. It must have scared all the bad screws away, because I have not had a cam-out since getting - but not using - it!
See? You KNOW it works great when you don't even have to open the cans
rick carpenter
Well-known member
The larger torx bits are easier to pivot out, in effect the same as cam out.
I hate them too, and also ECX/etc.
Legion Prime
Well-known member
ThePostman
Well-known member
Read the whole thread
sberry
Banned
I have a fair amount of Klein. They are ok and I bought a bigger one for lugs a while back and somehow it gor worked over the auto bench and ruined ever so slight that its not what it was just a little while ago, was scraping or something with it.
I used to buy a couple new with jobs, wire a new house get a screwdriver or 2. I would buy a new phillips number 2 every year or so and hide it a while to keep it sharp for problem cases. General work wears them out. I traded some old for some new off the shelf at the Sears a while back. The new screwdriver with the new handle was easy to spot for a while. it still works good, as you get older they last longer if paying attn. All my good old hand tools are worn out, some imports that lived beside them are in as good or better shape, the use spread out a little.
The stuff wears out, the good news is it cost less to replace if you are interested in it as a tool and so cheap it can even be replaced again or use multiples to spread the duty cycle.
The advent of the import rising has brought the cost down to 2 dollars. Every time I buy 2 of something I lose 1 right off so I got 5 new 1/4 today.
The cost of a new number 9 linemans is astronomical anymore. As one time I bouight some china but havnt been able to get the exact same models since, I am going to find it, been trying a couple and took some Menards back, I wanna find that generic clone they rebrand, still sharp, would have liked to get the exact same again and simply buy half a dozen each.
I understand there is better but am so used to the 440 clock that its hard to get away from it. They are priced very reasonable anyway makes sense to support that.
I am not fussy about others using my tools. I have had so little damage with that its not worth it, I am not a collector.
When I worked for other people I had a compulsion about using their charge accounts. I changed jobs, I really didn't care if someone threatened to fire me, I would come back from lunch,,,look what I gotcha. 4 new 440. one for me, one each for those 2 other guys and one for the shop box or trucks. Sometimes I would insist even as a new hire, if I had my **** together they asked for a lot of opinion and I wasn't shy. , good plan but we need to hit the sears stores immediately.
Sometimes the fleas for simple stuff. Auto parts too. They really knew it and got past if fast. I had a new air gage and the co owner comes over and said is that mine or yours. I said, its yours right now but as soon as I double your money with it I use it for free, then its mine and you got to pay me to use it.
This was a day after a new tire incident. That was the easiest time to sell that idea, if the driver would have had the wrenches would have saved it downtime, rin was way better than almost any other expenses. I always did it though where it was obvious as daylight and the payback was near instant. Never something long term but whatya think,,, well these big machines are great but this place needs a basket of clamps and hammers, adjustable wrenches.
I did a job for a golf course, the guy was a knob but the gf was really sharp and when he leave she was in charge. He flushed a bunch at poker or whatever and she must have been in some family biz, maybe landscaping, took her all of about 10 seconds to decide a buy that took him 10 weeks. I said, the men need a new chain saw, she must have realized the scope and said, get a good one.
I used to buy a couple new with jobs, wire a new house get a screwdriver or 2. I would buy a new phillips number 2 every year or so and hide it a while to keep it sharp for problem cases. General work wears them out. I traded some old for some new off the shelf at the Sears a while back. The new screwdriver with the new handle was easy to spot for a while. it still works good, as you get older they last longer if paying attn. All my good old hand tools are worn out, some imports that lived beside them are in as good or better shape, the use spread out a little.
The stuff wears out, the good news is it cost less to replace if you are interested in it as a tool and so cheap it can even be replaced again or use multiples to spread the duty cycle.
The advent of the import rising has brought the cost down to 2 dollars. Every time I buy 2 of something I lose 1 right off so I got 5 new 1/4 today.
The cost of a new number 9 linemans is astronomical anymore. As one time I bouight some china but havnt been able to get the exact same models since, I am going to find it, been trying a couple and took some Menards back, I wanna find that generic clone they rebrand, still sharp, would have liked to get the exact same again and simply buy half a dozen each.
I understand there is better but am so used to the 440 clock that its hard to get away from it. They are priced very reasonable anyway makes sense to support that.
I am not fussy about others using my tools. I have had so little damage with that its not worth it, I am not a collector.
When I worked for other people I had a compulsion about using their charge accounts. I changed jobs, I really didn't care if someone threatened to fire me, I would come back from lunch,,,look what I gotcha. 4 new 440. one for me, one each for those 2 other guys and one for the shop box or trucks. Sometimes I would insist even as a new hire, if I had my **** together they asked for a lot of opinion and I wasn't shy. , good plan but we need to hit the sears stores immediately.
Sometimes the fleas for simple stuff. Auto parts too. They really knew it and got past if fast. I had a new air gage and the co owner comes over and said is that mine or yours. I said, its yours right now but as soon as I double your money with it I use it for free, then its mine and you got to pay me to use it.
This was a day after a new tire incident. That was the easiest time to sell that idea, if the driver would have had the wrenches would have saved it downtime, rin was way better than almost any other expenses. I always did it though where it was obvious as daylight and the payback was near instant. Never something long term but whatya think,,, well these big machines are great but this place needs a basket of clamps and hammers, adjustable wrenches.
I did a job for a golf course, the guy was a knob but the gf was really sharp and when he leave she was in charge. He flushed a bunch at poker or whatever and she must have been in some family biz, maybe landscaping, took her all of about 10 seconds to decide a buy that took him 10 weeks. I said, the men need a new chain saw, she must have realized the scope and said, get a good one.
sberry
Banned
It makes it so much less painful. I hate to lose any tool I have come to depend on but I lost my little Proto ratchet and a socket last week,,, I knew there was something I wanted on the HF order today and that was a couple new ratchets, ****.
My uncle worked like a sled dog but it wasn't mechanic and didn't know one tool from another and would skype my tubing wrenches or snappy in his pocket to make adjustments. Even Sears was more expensive at that time and generic forged wrenches, some USA could be had for a dollar then 1.50 . We started buying them handful at a time as jobs and seasons came, some intended for temp but they worked their way in. There are some differences but the survivors stayed as did remnants of other sets etc. I love it in screwdrivers nut drivers all the different different handles etc, I rather not have all it match.
My uncle worked like a sled dog but it wasn't mechanic and didn't know one tool from another and would skype my tubing wrenches or snappy in his pocket to make adjustments. Even Sears was more expensive at that time and generic forged wrenches, some USA could be had for a dollar then 1.50 . We started buying them handful at a time as jobs and seasons came, some intended for temp but they worked their way in. There are some differences but the survivors stayed as did remnants of other sets etc. I love it in screwdrivers nut drivers all the different different handles etc, I rather not have all it match.
sberry
Banned
I aint "researching" and farting with which is the best and all that ****, 5 new screwdrivers for 10$ and none got to worry about, finance, insure, warranty although it is, none of that aqusition expense, don't got to think of its equity or its resale and bet if I put just a little grease on the handles would bring as much at auction as I paid for it.
This would be a totally different matter if it didn't work. Or if I never wore out the Klein and Diamond I have but I am left with a plier that is dull and worn as it is. Anyone pay anything in the classified here for KLEIN !!!! but with worn tips and jaws.
This would be a totally different matter if it didn't work. Or if I never wore out the Klein and Diamond I have but I am left with a plier that is dull and worn as it is. Anyone pay anything in the classified here for KLEIN !!!! but with worn tips and jaws.
sberry
Banned
I use a 440, a number 9, a ****, utility knife, a couple combo about every day but not always in the same place. There my be better things but thousands of cycles with the exact same model tool leave it feeling weird if its not identical. Not quite as sensitive with screwdrivers but a new sharp Sears or HF beats the **** out of a worn out Klein.
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richfinn
Well-known member
I have to agree with sberry, I never pay big £££ for screwdrivers, they are consumables if your a mechanic
I have a set of Wera metal caps, some Wiha VDEs and an a 30 year old Snap On ratchet driver with some JIS bits
(WIHA/WERA are relatively inexpensive in Europe and readily available). I like WIHA drivers, they are great value for money and last a long time
I have an impact driver and a BFH for when I absolutely positively have to smash the granny out of a stuck screw
I have a set of Wera metal caps, some Wiha VDEs and an a 30 year old Snap On ratchet driver with some JIS bits
(WIHA/WERA are relatively inexpensive in Europe and readily available). I like WIHA drivers, they are great value for money and last a long time
I have an impact driver and a BFH for when I absolutely positively have to smash the granny out of a stuck screw
ChapmanMFG
Active member
Thanks for recommending us! As you know our Phillips bits are precision milled from USA steel to fit snugly into screws which prevents cam-out 
Joel
VP - Chapman MFG
Joel
VP - Chapman MFG
wafrederick
Well-known member
I have the Wivco shake and break,have used this on the stubborn phillips screws getting them loose.Also clean the dirt and foreign material out good too.Another tool to get the phillips screws loose if the head of the screw sticks up are the vampliers made by Vampire Tools
theamcguy
Well-known member
Phillips head screws are designed to cam-out; it is a feature not a design flaw. They are designed for assembly lines and to prevent over-tightening. If you need a screw that does not cam-out there are other options like Torx. All screws are not the same, they were designed to fit a specific application and use.
Lassen Forge
Well-known member
My cheap Carlysle set I got from NAPA also have etched tips, and they work like magic...
Vessel users: Do the various Vessel brands (Megadore, Crystaline, the ball drivers, etc) have similar tips? I can't really tell. I was looking at a set of the Crystaline ones, but the tips look shiny, not dark/treated like the ball ones. I just want to make sure I'm getting the same thing and that they all work the same.
Your recommendations are much appreicated!
Your recommendations are much appreicated!
The Weras with the laser etched tips are crazy. They grip really well. You can insert the tip into a horizontal screw and let go of the screwdriver and it will not fall out. Not my picture, but:
For fun, some alternatives. Had to try a few screws to find a tight-fitting one but then all drivers/bits I tried fitted well enough to stay attached. The last one drooped a bit but it's a ratchet screwdriver full of bits so quite heavy.
American Locomotive
Well-known member
I have both the Vessel Impactas and the Vessel Woody (now called non-slip). As far as I can tell, the tip geometry is the same. They also have a serrated tip to grip worn out screws.
I usually get my Vessel stuff here: https://www.vesseltools.com/handtools/screwdrivers/screwdriversets
They have really good service.
I can also confirm that Vessel drivers will also do the sameFor fun, some alternatives. Had to try a few screws to find a tight-fitting one but then all drivers/bits I tried fitted well enough to stay attached. The last one drooped a bit but it's a ratchet screwdriver full of bits so quite heavy.
Ton ton
Well-known member
What brand is the black ratcheting screwdriver?
Ton ton
Well-known member
Thanks for recommending us! As you know our Phillips bits are precision milled from USA steel to fit snugly into screws which prevents cam-out
Joel
VP - Chapman MFG
Joel, do you have any brick and mortar retailers in Virginia?
Krokodil
Well-known member
Impressive collection Mr Lemons!
It's some sort of collaboration between Xiaomi and Wiha. I've had issues with a couple of the bits wearing/bending so they are not proper Wiha bits but it's a nice driver for the price.
https://www.aliexpress.com/item/329...earchweb0_0,searchweb201602_,searchweb201603_
Ton ton
Well-known member
Much appreciated, Mr. Lemons.
yhprum
Well-known member
An old timer showed me a trick when I was struggling removing screws on an aircraft panel. Grabbed a speed brace leaned on it a little and alternated loose and tighten. Screws pop right out most times.
gtae07
Well-known member
Unfortunately it is extremely hard to find aviation grade Torx screws, let alone ones with the correct countersink angle... the spec exists but nobody makes them unless you can buy industrial quantities.
dnschmidt
Well-known member
The reason Phillips screws cam-out is that Henry Ford wanted it that way. They did have air powered screwdriver back in the days of the Model T but they didn't have clutches on them. So whether you stripped a screw or not depended upon the operator. Ford hated that variability so he asked Phillips Screw Company to come up with a design that both automatically positioned the screw in the center of the driver and also would prevent the air powered screw guns from stripping out the screws if the operator was less than perfect. THUS THE PHILLIPS SCREW AND DRIVER. Yea Phillips ***** but it met the need at the time. It's time has come and gone but we're still stuck with it. In Germany Pozidriv (also from Phillips Screw Company) is the standard as they don't cam-out. If you have any kitchen cabinets with European hardware: Grass, Hettich, Hafele, Blum, etc. all of the adjusting and fastening screws are Pozidriv. As Christ found out no man is a profit in his home land. Phillips had to go to Europe for people to adopt their superior design.
Hotrod33809
Active member
I solved my Phillips head cam-out issue by using Torx. But I do like reading everyone's tips and tricks and when the time comes I am starting at a Phillips head I will definitely give them a try!