Problem with new media blaster..

[automotive stud]

I bought a pretty decent looking media blaster online like this one:
http://www.homedepot.com/Outdoors-O...splay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

I've seen the same one at Harbor Freight, Northern Tool, ect... it looked pretty decent for the price so I ordered one.

Hooked it up today and the pressure seems really low at the nozzle even with 120psi in the tank being fed from my 60 gallon compressor. I went to blast an old tool box with Aluminum Oxide abrasive. I kept having a problem with it only blowing air and no media. Is there anything I should check? The directions are pretty crappy, I assume all of the valves should be open, there is one on the bottom of the tank to feed the media and another that just feeds air into the gun. I even tried shutting that off so I only had the pressurized media but it still worked on and off. Even when it did work it could barely blow a hole through a wet tissue never mind remove paint.

I should have known what I was in for when I went to put the cap on and the bar hit the handles. I had to cut a half inch off the bar on the cap just to take it on and off.

Any tips??

 

[scott37300]

Moisture in your air?

 

[e-tek]

It's all about dry air! You need to plumb a dryerand filter before the blaster. Best/most cost effective setup is a dessicant dryer and a micron filter (to catch any dessicant, etc) just prior to the blaster. A long 3/4inch pipe from compressor to blaster also helps cool the air and condense the mositure out of the air prior to the dessicant. Dessicant can be dried in microwave to re-use.

 

[e-tek]

Set it up like this:

 

[bop_pa]

I have a similar looking blaster. First let's check a couple things. You need to empty it out. Then pull the nozzle and make sure there is no trash clogging up the end. I found that the media I originally put in there was a bit big and inconsistant and that did not help. I also think the moisture problem was not helping either. Drain out your compressor, run it out through a moisture trap at your compressor, then loop your air hose into an icy bucket full of water and ice, then into a moisture trap at your blaster. It should be dry by then.
And just incase you were not aware there is a valve at the very bottom of the blaster that needs some adjustment. Hope that helps.

 

[automotive stud]

Ok I have two driers on here now, I don't seem to have any problems with it clogging anymore, but it doesn't have the power I was expecting. It can barely remove rust and paint that isn't that heavy. The directions show how to put it together but nothing about what valves should be open or tips on how to use it properly. I have the valve on the bottom of the tank open and the valve that delivers air to the gun open. I'm running 90 psi in the tank, it seemed to like that best, but the aluminum oxide is barely taking off stuff I can do with my benchtop cabinet with glass media in it which was never good at heavy paint or rust removal.

 

[Tom2]

Maybe the nozzle is too large. What kind of air compressor?

I probably wouldn't be running alum ox in a pressure pot. Since it's much more difficult to reclaim it, that would get real expensive, real fast!

I was blasting with my HF pot this morning. Just using regular play sand to clean up an intake manifold. I just use the water trap that comes with the unit..Haven't had any moisture problems yet.

There should be 3 valves. One allows air into the tank. Open it all the way. The other at the top allows air into the output air hose. It should be fully open as well when you're ready to blast. The 3rd valve at the bottom controls the flow of media. It should be open about 3/4 of the way. Basically just enough to get a good flow, but not too much. So playing with that valve a bit may help give you a little more power.

A pressure pot should definitely be stronger than a syphon gun in a blast cabinet.

 

[bchee]

Hey, I didn't know they had the Central Pneumatic brand in Canada. Is that from Princess Auto?

Or did you buy that from Harbor Freight?

 

[automotive stud]

Maybe the nozzle is too large. What kind of air compressor?

I probably wouldn't be running alum ox in a pressure pot. Since it's much more difficult to reclaim it, that would get real expensive, real fast!

I was blasting with my HF pot this morning. Just using regular play sand to clean up an intake manifold. I just use the water trap that comes with the unit..Haven't had any moisture problems yet.

There should be 3 valves. One allows air into the tank. Open it all the way. The other at the top allows air into the output air hose. It should be fully open as well when you're ready to blast. The 3rd valve at the bottom controls the flow of media. It should be open about 3/4 of the way. Basically just enough to get a good flow, but not too much. So playing with that valve a bit may help give you a little more power.

A pressure pot should definitely be stronger than a syphon gun in a blast cabinet.

Thanks for the tips! I have a 60 gallon kobalt compressor. It's barely kicking on it has no trouble keeping up with this, in fact it hardly kicks on at all, unlike when it's running my syphon blaster, which makes me think it's not getting all the air pressure out of the gun that it should be.

I know the aluminum oxide is pricy, but I have an old gas pump I'm redoing and I need something that will cut it down fast, which this isn't doing right now. I figured it was time to ask for help before waisting all this media!

 

[Tom2]

Yea..An air compressor like that should pretty well run constant whenever you're blasting. I have a 80 gallon 2 stage..and it will run constant. I have to take breaks, let it cool down, etc..

I'd save the alum oxide for the blast cabinet. Should work good in there. Black Diamond (sold at tractor supply around here) cuts good. About $8 for a bag. Or you can get play sand for around $3.50 a bag from HD. I think the play sand cuts just as good, and is obviously cheaper - so I've been using it more recently if I can't reclaim it. It goes without saying to wear a really good respirator, ideally fresh air style..That's what I should probably get for the next big blasting project.

 

[automotive stud]

Yea..An air compressor like that should pretty well run constant whenever you're blasting. I have a 80 gallon 2 stage..and it will run constant. I have to take breaks, let it cool down, etc..

Yea when I use my cabinet, or even running a d/a sander off this compressor it keeps up good but is constantly turning on and off. Using this little pressure pot and the thing never turns on. It's like it's getting the full pressure into the tank, but it's just not there at the nozzle. I messed around with it some more today, the results are still disappointing.

 

[PCO6]

Hey, I didn't know they had the Central Pneumatic brand in Canada. Is that from Princess Auto?

Or did you buy that from Harbor Freight?

I have the same unit and I bought it at Princess Auto. They are usually about $80 but they go on sale occassionally for about $40.

 

[kc-steve]

. . . Drain out your compressor, run it out through a moisture trap at your compressor, then loop your air hose into an icy bucket full of water and ice, then into a moisture trap at your blaster. It should be dry by then. . . .

Yeah I agree, a clog might cause the problem as well as moisture. BUT informed sources tell me a moisture trap does you no good until the compressed air is cooled down first. So I built a black steel pipe delivery system (~35ft) around my garage then attached the moisture filter and regulator at the end of the run. The steel pipe cools the air prior to the filter.

I only use a small desiccant filter/regulator on my paint gun. Too expensive to use for other stuff.

Steve

 

[automotive stud]

Thanks guys got it working great now! Cleaned the nozzle and closed the valve on the bottom of the pot about 3/4 and it made all the difference. I was able to do the tool box I've had in pieces in the garage for a month. On to my old gas pump next!