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Product to fill expansion cuts

Crazy68Dart

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Apr 10, 2010
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NE Ohio
Hi all, finishing up my garage, would like to fill the saw joints in the concrete. The floor has been in for 12 months (under cover, etc.). Just got the insulation, drywall, and paint finished over the past month. Cleaning the floor up after all the mess and thought it might be nice to fill the saw joints so they don't fill back up with ****.

I am not finishing the floor in any special way. It is 6" floor with radiant PEX with a sealer applied.

Thanks.
 
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CombatNinja

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d978ccdf-b2d2-47f0-ada9-9b6a579edcb8_1000.jpg


Sikaflex self-leveling is good stuff.
 

Armorpoxy

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Aug 18, 2013
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Agree, Sikaflex is readily available and works well for this type of application.
 

EdT

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North Georgia
I too have used the sika flex self leveling stuff and it works great. If you are especially OCD, you might want to consider taping either side of the groove so that any errant material can be easily dealt with. It is not a material that "cleans up easily with water". Once it's on something some of it will always be there. Kinda like silicone caulk in that regard, but the self leveling feature seems to work very well. Takes a while to fully harden in a deep groove.
 

dogdog

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Nov 15, 2011
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I fill mine about 5" deep and 90% of the fills are still like brand new, the other 10% failure were cause by something else, the neighbor that copy me, cheap out and only fill about 1/2" or 1" plus poorly prepping the joint, and those joints last about one year....

I have seen other contractors cut 1/8 thick 3" or 4" wide mdf and used duct tapes to protect it while it cures.....
 

michaelf

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May 2, 2014
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SE MI
any other brands that are good? I cannot find that here or any place to order it.
 

dogdog

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any other brands that are good? I cannot find that here or any place to order it.

HD or lowes have them

you can also use the hd website and deliver to the closest store for free....
 

dogdog

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Dog, Cheaper at Amazon + no tax.

Joe H

only if OP have prime, otherwise not that much differences...... but I usually wants them yesterday when I want them.... and they are located usually at the cement/masonry supply isles.

Maybe OP looked at the caulking isles..... wrong section
 

csp

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Mar 23, 2010
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Franktown, CO
any other brands that are good? I cannot find that here or any place to order it.

Where is "here"? Put your location in your profile

If you have Home Depot or Lowes wherever here is, look in the aisles where the concrete products are, not with the caulking/paint section.
 

Junkyard Jim

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Jul 24, 2015
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Location
Foothills, CA
Do you guys recommend using this stuff with or without the closed cell, "backer bar" stuff? The stuff you cram in the crack before using the filler. I would think it best to have the product fill the entire crack, although I know that means you have to use more of it. I'm just picturing water getting under the backer somewhere/somehow and not being a good thing.
 

dogdog

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Do you guys recommend using this stuff with or without the closed cell, "backer bar" stuff? The stuff you cram in the crack before using the filler. I would think it best to have the product fill the entire crack, although I know that means you have to use more of it. I'm just picturing water getting under the backer somewhere/somehow and not being a good thing.

if the crack / joint is deep. I used the backer rods but I have a larger paint stick measured at 5" and put a nail/screw through it to set the depth that I wanted..... the sections I didn't use backer rods.... a lot of the compound leaked into the cavity underneath the concrete or something....kinda an expensive lesson.

They are usually foam base and usually just there to stop the compound leaking down further than you wanted it to on the joint. Once the compound is set, they have serve it's purpose....
 

michaelf

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May 2, 2014
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Location
SE MI
Some people have claimed to use sand to fill the joints instead of the foam backer, this seems to be easier, what do you all think?
 

dogdog

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Some people have claimed to use sand to fill the joints instead of the foam backer, this seems to be easier, what do you all think?

putting sand in between two piece of concrete would work but doesn't that defeat the purpose of the expansion joint ?
 
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visiting guest

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Apr 27, 2015
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we bought bag of sand to fill deep cracks 1/2 way .
before we used quickcrete concrete crack sealer.
pre mixed quart bottle (gray bottle yellow label) in same location as self leveling concrete supplies
we put crack sealer on in heavier amounts and let it bulge up beyond height of expansion joints. after it cured for a few days we ground it flush with the concrete. so it looks like the floor seams inside home depot .
seams are now flush with concrete so cart can roll around without getting stuck on joint gaps
 

michaelf

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SE MI
what did you use for a wheel to grind it with? we have big driveway slabs that have split along the expansion joints only but are moving apart as we get so much rain seems like they want to almost float.
 

Backyard Imports

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Oct 21, 2015
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western WA
I know that this is an older thread but I am looking to do the same thing right now and I am wondering if this stuff cures as hard as the concrete around it and if it will handle a loaded cherry picker rolling over it? Mind you, my cuts are " deep and wide at the top.

Thanks!
 

lakeroadster

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Central Colorado
I know that this is an older thread but I am looking to do the same thing right now and I am wondering if this stuff cures as hard as the concrete around it and if it will handle a loaded cherry picker rolling over it? Mind you, my cuts are " deep and wide at the top.

Thanks!

No Sikaflex Self-Leveling does not cure hard, it stays flexible.

For an expansion joint, that is what you want, for the slabs to be free to move and for the filler to stay flexible.
 
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Bighead38

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Rockland County NY
The guy above just explained why you don't want it "hard". That stuff cures hard enough you can roll over but stays a flexible enough imo.
 

Ch3No2

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Nov 27, 2009
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356
Thanks for the quick response and letting me know.

Does anybody know what other options are available that will cure hard?

I used Ardex Feather Finish after my slab was fully cured for the saw cut expansion joints....2 fills with a putty knife and blue tape and no problems. I wanted a hard fill for the epoxy paint.
 
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LegacyIndustrial

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deerfield, IL
I know that this is an older thread but I am looking to do the same thing right now and I am wondering if this stuff cures as hard as the concrete around it and if it will handle a loaded cherry picker rolling over it? Mind you, my cuts are " deep and wide at the top.

Thanks!

The products mentioned thus far work satisfactory but can take no weight and turn black when your tires hit them. Our Xtreme Set 100 has up to 8% elongation and measures in at 4800 psi compressive strength.

Here is a video showing our product...

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/xtreme-set-100-video.html
 

Backyard Imports

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Oct 21, 2015
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Location
western WA
The products mentioned thus far work satisfactory but can take no weight and turn black when your tires hit them. Our Xtreme Set 100 has up to 8% elongation and measures in at 4800 psi compressive strength.

Here is a video showing our product...

http://www.legacyindustrial.net/xtreme-set-100-video.html

This definitely looks like a product that I would like to try.

My question for you would be, approx. how much will I need for 150 linear feet of joint the is 1" deep?
 
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