Strouty
Well-known member
I had not really thought about the flat rate boxes at the time. I am still worried that they won't warranty them because of me using a wire brush on them.
Proto tool socket set issues.
- Thread starter shouse
- Start date
I had not really thought about the flat rate boxes at the time. I am still worried that they won't warranty them because of me using a wire brush on them.
Conductor562
Well-known member
I'm.......well......I'm just at a loss for words. I'm going to find a corner to cry in 
I'd just mail them in include a note saying you had to because they were peeling
I have a local dealer that handles it for me but the only bad things I've ever heard of their mail in warranty is from the people who couldn't be bothered to mail the tool in like Proto wanted...Strouty
Well-known member
Total thread jacking….
I took some pictures of them before I wire wheeled them, I think I sliced two fingers and a couple of places on my palm. The one I picked up was so sharp I did not know I had cut myself until I actually saw blood.
I took some pictures of them before I wire wheeled them, I think I sliced two fingers and a couple of places on my palm. The one I picked up was so sharp I did not know I had cut myself until I actually saw blood.
Conductor562
Well-known member
I'd just about guarantee they'll warranty those if you mail them in
navyeoseabee
Well-known member
yep, my 3/4" extensions and sockets are beat up from use... not used in a "pity my satin" finish thread....
OutsideMachinist
Well-known member
Thats the way they are supposed to be sir. Warranty and you will get the same thing. You would only be wasting your time and theirs. -To the OP
Kirbot
Well-known member
I kind of think I would have sprung the $10 to mail them in, and not screwed with the wire brush...
I'll go with Ruger though... Include a note and hope for the best.
I'll go with Ruger though... Include a note and hope for the best.
Strouty
Well-known member
I kind of think I would have sprung the $10 to mail them in, and not screwed with the wire brush...
I'll go with Ruger though... Include a note and hope for the best.
I had a job that I needed them for and was worried about a long turn around. After wire wheeling them, they were fine to handle, so I kind of forgot about them. This thread refreshed my memory.
It would take a few boxes, there is about a dozen of them that were peeling. Some worse than others.
Thanks guys. Sorry for getting my ******* in a bunch as well. I appreciate the wealth of information on this board, I guess my n00bness really came out on this one. Looks like I'm good to go. Thanks again. Still funny the grainger rep must not have known what a pin retention lock was either.
Dr.JohnnyFever
Well-known member
- Joined
- Jun 15, 2008
- Messages
- 703
TOOL FANATIK
Well-known member
i dont think there's anything wrong with the finish. remember this is 3/4 drive we're talking about.
TOOL FANATIK
Well-known member
Generally, 3/4" drive and up isn't built to be pretty. A lot of my 3/4" stuff is black oxide. I keep it pretty much dripping in oil. My 3/4" chrome stuff (Proto, Wright, and Williams) is satin and is very rough. Nobody buys 3/4" for the looks - it's to get the job done. I think it does have a beauty of its own.[/QUOTE]
EXACTLY. they are typically farm or industrial.( guys who aint putting their tools back in their special places when theyre done, or even wiping the oil or s#$t off ) the processes they use to make these and 1" dr tools are different from your smaller drive tools im sure. as long as theyre strong and take a beating, thats 3/4 drive enough for me... and also, to the op, if you cant learn to love youre pin detent, ill trade you my friction ball 3/4 stuff. when youre socket or extension or both keep flying off of each other and the driver, youll be begging me for your s$%^ back. just keep a sturdy pick with them and you should be all set. good luck!
EXACTLY. they are typically farm or industrial.( guys who aint putting their tools back in their special places when theyre done, or even wiping the oil or s#$t off ) the processes they use to make these and 1" dr tools are different from your smaller drive tools im sure. as long as theyre strong and take a beating, thats 3/4 drive enough for me... and also, to the op, if you cant learn to love youre pin detent, ill trade you my friction ball 3/4 stuff. when youre socket or extension or both keep flying off of each other and the driver, youll be begging me for your s$%^ back. just keep a sturdy pick with them and you should be all set. good luck!
Zrexxer
Well-known member
Just to be clear, those tools are chrome. Chrome is a plated finish. Whatever the underlying surface is like will be reflected through into that plated finish. If it's highly polished, the plated surface will be highly polished. If it's as-forged, the plated surface will not be smooth or shiny. But it's ALL chrome.
Pretty much the only alternative finish for drive tools like this is black oxide.
My apologies, I should have worded it as "polished chrome", @Op there is still nothing wrong with the finish characteristics of your Proto extensions.
BDT/NWMN
Well-known member
There should be a thread of stories about parts counter guys.
Might be two newbees involved here: the OP and the Counterperson...
They can learn something new every day, yet nobody will ever know it all
Zrexxer
Well-known member
I know you understood the difference Hiball, I just thought the terminology might be confusing to the OP.
Shouse - about the pins in the extensions and ratchet......They do this to prevent a socket or extension from flying off while being used at a weird angle or with a impact gun ( Im guilty too )
Yea its inconvienent to use a small screwdriver to remove them but think about taking a 1-7/8" socket to the teeth after it flies off while using an impact...
Yea its inconvienent to use a small screwdriver to remove them but think about taking a 1-7/8" socket to the teeth after it flies off while using an impact...
Hi everybody, here is another fan of hand tools!
SOme answers to the thread:
a) Europeans like finishings that do not glare (they consider them more industrial, rough...tools are things for men!)
b) Americans like shiny finishings (tools are not only for men, they must show perfectness and must be beauty, they are the few jewels men can enjoy)
Of course this is stereotyping, but there is some truth in it.
Having said that, one thing is coating and another is finishing (nomenclature can vary, but it is usually like this):
a) Cheapest chrome plating finishing is "matt chrome". Forged pieces are cleaned and chrome plated. Surface is rough. Due to this reason, plating chips off easier. Most of Gedore tools on the pictures shown are this kind of finishing (which is hardly understandable...).
b) After it comes "satin matt chrome". Forged pieces are sandblasted, then chrome plated. The finishing is matt (not shiny) but not rough. Plating is more resistant.
c) Then "mirror polished chrome". Forged pieces are finely polished, then plated: the finishing is smooth shiny. Plating is even more resistant.
d) There is a more expensive finishing called "fine satin matt chrome" or "aerospace satin chrome": forged pieces are finely polished for deleting any surface imperfection (as best tools should be), but in order to comply with European "taste" they are after very finely sandblasted to take out the glaring shiny finishing, and after chrome plated. This is the most expensice chrome plating, and most resistant.
I guess there may be more coatings and finishings, but these are most used, but costs and (most important) benefits are unknown to most users.
Hope it helped!
SOme answers to the thread:
a) Europeans like finishings that do not glare (they consider them more industrial, rough...tools are things for men!)
b) Americans like shiny finishings (tools are not only for men, they must show perfectness and must be beauty, they are the few jewels men can enjoy)
Of course this is stereotyping, but there is some truth in it.
Having said that, one thing is coating and another is finishing (nomenclature can vary, but it is usually like this):
a) Cheapest chrome plating finishing is "matt chrome". Forged pieces are cleaned and chrome plated. Surface is rough. Due to this reason, plating chips off easier. Most of Gedore tools on the pictures shown are this kind of finishing (which is hardly understandable...).
b) After it comes "satin matt chrome". Forged pieces are sandblasted, then chrome plated. The finishing is matt (not shiny) but not rough. Plating is more resistant.
c) Then "mirror polished chrome". Forged pieces are finely polished, then plated: the finishing is smooth shiny. Plating is even more resistant.
d) There is a more expensive finishing called "fine satin matt chrome" or "aerospace satin chrome": forged pieces are finely polished for deleting any surface imperfection (as best tools should be), but in order to comply with European "taste" they are after very finely sandblasted to take out the glaring shiny finishing, and after chrome plated. This is the most expensice chrome plating, and most resistant.
I guess there may be more coatings and finishings, but these are most used, but costs and (most important) benefits are unknown to most users.
Hope it helped!
decableguy2000
Well-known member
- Joined
- Nov 4, 2012
- Messages
- 652
I had good experience with Proto warranty services. I had an old bet up 3/8" ratchet and went to Grainger and the gave me a rebuild kit to bad the chrome was chipped and peeling. I called Proto and they said to mail it in with a return address enclosed and received a new one today. I think it was right at week door to door.
Jeremy
Jeremy
Its a tool to get a job done, use them don't cry over the,. They will do the job and finish the job without giving you much hassle. Please note you bought them used, you should have checked the condition and finish at the time of purchase.
logical
Well-known member
Hi everybody, here is another fan of hand tools!
SOme answers to the thread:
a) Europeans like finishings that do not glare (they consider them more industrial, rough...tools are things for men!)
b) Americans like shiny finishings (tools are not only for men, they must show perfectness and must be beauty, they are the few jewels men can enjoy)
Of course this is stereotyping, but there is some truth in it.
Having said that, one thing is coating and another is finishing (nomenclature can vary, but it is usually like this):
a) Cheapest chrome plating finishing is "matt chrome". Forged pieces are cleaned and chrome plated. Surface is rough. Due to this reason, plating chips off easier. Most of Gedore tools on the pictures shown are this kind of finishing (which is hardly understandable...).
b) After it comes "satin matt chrome". Forged pieces are sandblasted, then chrome plated. The finishing is matt (not shiny) but not rough. Plating is more resistant.
c) Then "mirror polished chrome". Forged pieces are finely polished, then plated: the finishing is smooth shiny. Plating is even more resistant.
d) There is a more expensive finishing called "fine satin matt chrome" or "aerospace satin chrome": forged pieces are finely polished for deleting any surface imperfection (as best tools should be), but in order to comply with European "taste" they are after very finely sandblasted to take out the glaring shiny finishing, and after chrome plated. This is the most expensice chrome plating, and most resistant.
I guess there may be more coatings and finishings, but these are most used, but costs and (most important) benefits are unknown to most users.
Hope it helped!
None of that explains the whole arm pit hair thing.