Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)
- Thread starter PugetDude
- Start date
Monza Harry
Well-known member
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shortykorte
Well-known member
E brake? Is everything going to electric? 
555
Well-known member
Forty years ago I built a frame for a GL1000 powered T Bucket. I'm looking forward to seeing your car finished.
I was up in Show Low for a couple of days, talked to the trike builder that sold me the Goldwing engine.
He said that trikes start around 1200# and most leave his shop closer to 1400# with all the goodies bolted on.
I'm thinking this car isn't going to weigh much more than that.
Decided to ditch the heavy minivan bench seat and the massive sliders; going with lightweight bucket seats instead.
My engine and transmission weighs 285#; the body (without firewall) 265#.
Will try to remember to weigh the chassis the next time I have the engine out and body off- probably when I flip it over to do all the welding on the underside.
More to come.
He said that trikes start around 1200# and most leave his shop closer to 1400# with all the goodies bolted on.
I'm thinking this car isn't going to weigh much more than that.
Decided to ditch the heavy minivan bench seat and the massive sliders; going with lightweight bucket seats instead.
My engine and transmission weighs 285#; the body (without firewall) 265#.
Will try to remember to weigh the chassis the next time I have the engine out and body off- probably when I flip it over to do all the welding on the underside.
More to come.
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555
Well-known member
I'm going to guess around 1500#. Should be a very quick car. I don't know what the GL1000 powered T Bucket weighed. The owner was shooting for 1000-1200# but I never saw it finished.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
The little van was pretty quick, and has to weigh more than a 32 roadster.
Started on another facet of this project.
I had the underfloor clutch brake assembly from the original pile of parts I pulled out of the barn in Washington. It was heavy, massive, and the wrong configuration for this new powertrain.
I looked at off the shelf assemblies from Wilwood, Tilton, Speedway, Empi, etc. Any of these would have worked perfectly. But... that would be too easy.
After a bit of head scratching and studying the underfloor assembly, I realized that all I needed to do was turn it upside down, flip it end for end, cut down the frame, rework the pedal arms and modify the brake section from power to manual.
So I took it apart, cut and welded the arms, and then started mocking it up in accordance with the dimensions on a helpful drawing from Wilwood I found online. I already had the round clutch and brake pads, and a spoon pedal for the throttle. I can always change them out later if I find I don't like them when I get this running and on the road.
Clutch side was pretty straightforward, the brake side is going to require a bit of frame rework to change from power to manual. I'll wait until the new master cylinder gets here before I tackle that side. I also pared down the frame, didn't need the support for the vacuum booster or the cast iron master cylinder.
Still waiting on the new manual brake master cylinder to arrive via the brown truck, at ~1500# I don't need the added weight of a huge power brake booster and a master cylinder that weighs almost as much as the Flathead block. I went with an Empi disc/disc master with remote reservoirs. It's compact, complements the Wilwood clutch cylinder and should stop this car just fine- I don't think when finished it will weigh any more than a VW Bug or a dune buggy.
Did a bit of polishing on the reworked pedals before calling it quits for the day.
More to come.
I had the underfloor clutch brake assembly from the original pile of parts I pulled out of the barn in Washington. It was heavy, massive, and the wrong configuration for this new powertrain.
I looked at off the shelf assemblies from Wilwood, Tilton, Speedway, Empi, etc. Any of these would have worked perfectly. But... that would be too easy.
After a bit of head scratching and studying the underfloor assembly, I realized that all I needed to do was turn it upside down, flip it end for end, cut down the frame, rework the pedal arms and modify the brake section from power to manual.
So I took it apart, cut and welded the arms, and then started mocking it up in accordance with the dimensions on a helpful drawing from Wilwood I found online.
I already had the round clutch and brake pads, and a spoon pedal for the throttle. I can always change them out later if I find I don't like them when I get this running and on the road.Clutch side was pretty straightforward, the brake side is going to require a bit of frame rework to change from power to manual. I'll wait until the new master cylinder gets here before I tackle that side. I also pared down the frame, didn't need the support for the vacuum booster or the cast iron master cylinder.
Still waiting on the new manual brake master cylinder to arrive via the brown truck, at ~1500# I don't need the added weight of a huge power brake booster and a master cylinder that weighs almost as much as the Flathead block. I went with an Empi disc/disc master with remote reservoirs. It's compact, complements the Wilwood clutch cylinder and should stop this car just fine- I don't think when finished it will weigh any more than a VW Bug or a dune buggy.
Did a bit of polishing on the reworked pedals before calling it quits for the day.
More to come.
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Ohmthis
Well-known member
I have started this thread a few times. Sorry to say that I got distracted and never followed through with reading it all. Scott, excellent design and fab work buddy! I am seeing this through to the end. I hope you post a video of the 32 running. I’m curious on how it sounds.
I'm not really a garage sale guy, but I did stop at one on the way home from the UPS store today. I had a choice of hammers, all the same price.
$3.00
It was a bit of a conundrum.
Snap-On deadblow or Harbor Freight Claw hammer?
Hope I made the right decision.
$3.00
It was a bit of a conundrum.
Snap-On deadblow or Harbor Freight Claw hammer?
Hope I made the right decision.
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Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Now that’s funny..lol
larry4406
Well-known member
In Post 540 you show some glimpses of your fab table. Any more details on it?
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Excellent workmanship on the tunnel, floorpan and pedal assembly Scott. Very impressive work.
Is that booster/master cylinder combo from an early Vette? I used one similar to that on several street rods years ago because it had the smallest boost diameter of anything I could find at the time at around 7 inches and cleared the frames under the cars nicely.
Is that booster/master cylinder combo from an early Vette? I used one similar to that on several street rods years ago because it had the smallest boost diameter of anything I could find at the time at around 7 inches and cleared the frames under the cars nicely.
Thanks, Mike. I've learned a lot from talented folks like you here on the GJ, but still have a long way to go.
Not sure where the old pedal assembly came from, it was in the pile of parts I pulled out of the barn up in Washington State. It was new, unused with a
Wilwood clutch cylinder and CPP?? master cylinder. Probably Speedway.
The underfloor pedals barely fit with the Flathead and T-5. No room for exhaust on the driver's side.
If I was going to stay with power brakes I wanted to change to a Datsun 310 booster. They're only about 4.5" in diameter. Still an option for this build if necessary.
Not sure where the old pedal assembly came from, it was in the pile of parts I pulled out of the barn up in Washington State. It was new, unused with a
Wilwood clutch cylinder and CPP?? master cylinder. Probably Speedway.
The underfloor pedals barely fit with the Flathead and T-5. No room for exhaust on the driver's side.
If I was going to stay with power brakes I wanted to change to a Datsun 310 booster. They're only about 4.5" in diameter. Still an option for this build if necessary.
zmotorsports
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Agreed. We all learn from each other here as I too feel I have a long way to go to get to where I want to be.
Got the firewall cut out and fitted. It went in with minimal trimming and opening up the notches.
It's still completely flat, I will be rolling in a couple of beads and adding a shallow dished recess for the starter- which just barely touches the flat firewall. It's really close to the tunnel cutout... thinking maybe integrating them into one cutout?
This doesn't look or fit at all like a stock 32 firewall. (will probably plug weld it in place from the inside) It does give me a lot more flat real estate, but needs something to dress it up... ideas welcome...
It's still completely flat, I will be rolling in a couple of beads and adding a shallow dished recess for the starter- which just barely touches the flat firewall. It's really close to the tunnel cutout... thinking maybe integrating them into one cutout?
This doesn't look or fit at all like a stock 32 firewall. (will probably plug weld it in place from the inside) It does give me a lot more flat real estate, but needs something to dress it up... ideas welcome...
RivennHewn
Well-known member
Progress is fun to watch. By fun, I mean impressive.
Happy to see everything you’ve done, but wanting more.
Keep it up!
Happy to see everything you’ve done, but wanting more.
Keep it up!
I like the idea of adding it to the tunnel. Depending on your interior design, maybe changing the shape of the top of the tunnel and incorporating a couple of gauges.Got the firewall cut out and fitted. It went in with minimal trimming and opening up the notches.
It's still completely flat, I will be rolling in a couple of beads and adding a shallow dished recess for the starter- which just barely touches the flat firewall. It's really close to the tunnel cutout... thinking maybe integrating them into one cutout?
This doesn't look or fit at all like a stock 32 firewall. (will probably plug weld it in place from the inside) It does give me a lot more flat real estate, but needs something to dress it up... ideas welcome...
Don't really have any specific design in mind... honestly just making most of this up as I go along.
The starter recess will need to be removable to allow me to pull the starter without removing the engine. I knew it was going to be tight, was hoping to be able to just do a hole with a cover plate but I missed that by about a quarter of an inch. The motor can't go any farther forward without the exhaust interfering with the steering box.
Time for some advanced CADboard design.
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Ohmthis
Well-known member
Puget, do you like a mechanical look? Industrial is maybe the correct word/description? The fire wall right now is a clean canvas. I envision the fuel line(s) or electrical ran very eloquent with perfect level/perpendicular runs. Copper colored lines and fabric insulated wires that are laced, there’s at least one idea.
driftpin
Well-known member
That is a lot of fun to read, seeing how you solved issues after deciding to do an unconventional build. I have a Porter-Cable portable bandsaw, but it's not the one that works with the tabletop conversion. You get some good work out of yours.
Somewhere in my Daytona Bike Week pictures from years ago, I have pics of a Gold Wing with what I think is a 4-71 GMC blower. I was surprised to see what it was using for carburetion. It appeared to be an SU! A single SU! I would've thought it would be using a Weber DCOE or a couple downdraft Mikunis. I know the primary goal is to make it run. It will be great to see how it works out for Stage 1.
The GW I saw at Daytona Beach was on a trailer, it was a drag bike and it was wearing its number which I presume was from the last strip outing. I saw it at the Hooter's parking lot across from the Speedway.
Somewhere in my Daytona Bike Week pictures from years ago, I have pics of a Gold Wing with what I think is a 4-71 GMC blower. I was surprised to see what it was using for carburetion. It appeared to be an SU! A single SU! I would've thought it would be using a Weber DCOE or a couple downdraft Mikunis. I know the primary goal is to make it run. It will be great to see how it works out for Stage 1.
The GW I saw at Daytona Beach was on a trailer, it was a drag bike and it was wearing its number which I presume was from the last strip outing. I saw it at the Hooter's parking lot across from the Speedway.
Worked on the tunnel a bit this afternoon.
The starter is offset just enough to make any concentric recess look awkward. I tried several iterations of round, obround, and tapered openings in the CADboard template trying to tie it into the driveshaft tunnel but just didn't like the way it looked.
Here how the starter is positioned relative to the driveshaft tunnel: ( w/ a really rough trace of the starter motor. )
I had purchased the 4" pipe cap with the idea of using it for the starter recess, but couldn't get the concentric circle to look right with the irregular and offset shape of the starter motor. Incorporating it into the tunnel cutout would require making the tunnel a lot larger, and I want to be able to remove this recessed piece separately.
After a hour or so playing with scissors and tape ( never realized how important those kindergarten skills would be some day) I decided a semi elliptical shaped recess would allow me to visually cheat the offset and eliminate the irregular reveal behind the starter motor.
This is where I ended up. Cut the final shape out of 18 gauge to mock it up. Will have to fabricate a removable 3/4" deep pan so the starter can clear the firewall. It will sit about 3/4" above the driveshaft tunnel, visually centered in relation to the starter bolt pattern and the tunnel. I think this is the best I can do without extensive rework expanding the tunnel vertically and horizontally to incorporate the starter recess.
Will post pics of the flanged pan fabrication if I still like the shape tomorrow after sleeping overnight.
The starter is offset just enough to make any concentric recess look awkward. I tried several iterations of round, obround, and tapered openings in the CADboard template trying to tie it into the driveshaft tunnel but just didn't like the way it looked.
Here how the starter is positioned relative to the driveshaft tunnel: ( w/ a really rough trace of the starter motor. )
I had purchased the 4" pipe cap with the idea of using it for the starter recess, but couldn't get the concentric circle to look right with the irregular and offset shape of the starter motor. Incorporating it into the tunnel cutout would require making the tunnel a lot larger, and I want to be able to remove this recessed piece separately.
After a hour or so playing with scissors and tape ( never realized how important those kindergarten skills would be some day) I decided a semi elliptical shaped recess would allow me to visually cheat the offset and eliminate the irregular reveal behind the starter motor.
This is where I ended up. Cut the final shape out of 18 gauge to mock it up. Will have to fabricate a removable 3/4" deep pan so the starter can clear the firewall. It will sit about 3/4" above the driveshaft tunnel, visually centered in relation to the starter bolt pattern and the tunnel. I think this is the best I can do without extensive rework expanding the tunnel vertically and horizontally to incorporate the starter recess.
Will post pics of the flanged pan fabrication if I still like the shape tomorrow after sleeping overnight.
Finallygotit
ALLIANCE MEMBER
If it matters, I like it!
drivesitfar
Well-known member
PD: your used engine is looking cleaner and in better shape every time I see pics of it. Keep up the great work.
Is all the decking and stairs finished up too? I Loved the logs you installed to replace old rotted ones!! Do you need copper green for bugs or rot or just stain every year or two?
Is all the decking and stairs finished up too? I Loved the logs you installed to replace old rotted ones!! Do you need copper green for bugs or rot or just stain every year or two?
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Unless you’re making that deep enough to remove the starter without removing the engine, why bother? The starter doesn’t look like it hits the firewall?All opinions matter.
Some more than others...
Motorcycle starters last what seems like forever too.
MP&C
Well-known member
If your firewall is still removable you might do a “speed blister” via hammer form where you don’t need to weld the part in. Just the small holes for the clamping bolts for the hammer form
Thanks, Robert. I originally thought about doing a blister, but was concerned about it looking like a sack of walnuts when I got done beating the snot out of it
) I even considered cutting the end off one of the old headlights and welding a flange on it.Opted for just a straight shallow elliptical pan for now.
I have the pan about done, it's going to be removable from the inside so I can always change it out later. Gotta get this thing running for proof of concept first...
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Nice.
Old Man Roger
Well-known member
Nice
Im gonna name your ride “jock cup”Worked on the starter recess pan today, took a lot of welding and grinding to get it flanged on the back and capped on the back.
Ready for fit-up. Will adjust the reveal on the firewall after it's installed.
Ohmthis
Well-known member
May be a bit late, but you could have made a hammer form with mdf. It may have saved you time. Great job regardless.Worked on the starter recess pan today, took a lot of welding and grinding to get it flanged on the back and capped on the back.
Ready for fit-up. Will adjust the reveal on the firewall after it's installed.
Hammer form would probably have been easier. Cutting the frame and adding 3/4" probably would have been faster..
The recess ended up closer to the tunnel cutout than I like, but for better or worse it's in.
Put a piece of polished aluminum diamond plate in the bottom of the pan. Looked like an old sardine can otherwise.
Got the nutserts in the floor pan sections,and 1/4-20 bolts holding the bottom of the firewall in place. Hex head bolts are only for the mock up.
Left out the holes where the pedal assembly is going to sit until after I get that fitted. Definitely had an interference issue with the starter, the recess solved it.
Time to move on to something else. Need to finish up the pedals so I can get those holes cut out- then the steering column.
Cutting the frame and adding 3/4" probably would have been faster..The recess ended up closer to the tunnel cutout than I like, but for better or worse it's in.
Put a piece of polished aluminum diamond plate in the bottom of the pan. Looked like an old sardine can otherwise.
Got the nutserts in the floor pan sections,and 1/4-20 bolts holding the bottom of the firewall in place. Hex head bolts are only for the mock up.
Left out the holes where the pedal assembly is going to sit until after I get that fitted. Definitely had an interference issue with the starter, the recess solved it.
Time to move on to something else. Need to finish up the pedals so I can get those holes cut out- then the steering column.
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shortykorte
Well-known member
“PD was here” would look good bead rolled into the interior side of firewall. 