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Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)

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PugetDude

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Got the drill press wired up, the front of the head had 4 existing drilled and tapped 5mm holes from the missing switch cover so I screwed a piece of brushed 3/16 aluminum plate to it, with a couple of drilled and tapped 10-32 holes to mount a deep single gang waterproof box. Installed a heavy duty stop/start switch for the motor; toggle switch for the light tucked in underneath. It was a tight fit getting both switches in the box, but it works.
IMG_20241014_163929379.jpg
 
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PugetDude

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Ordered a replacement chuck key and table elevation crank handle from HF today. Have to say, it was an awesome customer service experience. Had a choice of waiting on hold or getting a call back; took the call back option- that happened less than 3 minutes later. Very helpful, pleasant conversation. Parts were in stock, reasonably priced and free shipping. They already had my customer info from my phone number, so it was a very simple process, entire transaction probably took less than ten minutes.
Quick survey at the end of the call. (Brilliant, only a single question- "If you need parts in the future, would you like this person to help you again? Press one for yes, two for no."
#1
Got an email stating parts were on the way a hour later.

Couldn't have asked for a better customer service experience. It was much better than what I expected...from HF.
 
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larry4406

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PugetDude said:
Got the drill press wired up, the front of the head had 4 existing drilled and tapped 5mm holes from the missing switch cover so I screwed a piece of brushed 3/16 aluminum plate to it, with a couple of drilled and tapped 10-32 holes to mount a deep single gang waterproof box. Installed a heavy duty stop/start switch for the motor; toggle switch for the light tucked in underneath. It was a tight fit getting both switches in the box, but it works.
IMG_20241014_163929379.jpg
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I like that switch. Link? My Clausing drill press has a single pole residential switch from the prior owner.

Just noticed the engine in your hot rod has dual radiators - this from the prior motorcycle arrangement? One of many things to adapt I am sure.
 
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zmotorsports

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Scott, nice score on the drill press, it looks exactly like my 20" Jet that I have had for pushing 20 years now. It is a great drill press, but if I can make one suggestion if you don't already have one, equip it with a nice Jacobs chuck. I purchased my drill press new and the first thing I did was swap out chucks for a nice Jacobs 16N ball bearing chuck and haven't regretted it once.

Also, nice score on the Vyper seat back. You won't regret it, I am glad I purchased mine with the backrest. I bought mine specifically for use at my welding/fabrication table, however, I have found myself on more than one occasion just sitting on it and contemplating life and things. :unsure: It's that comfortable.
 
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PugetDude

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larry4406 said:
I like that switch. Link? My Clausing drill press has a single pole residential switch from the prior owner.

Just noticed the engine in your hot rod has dual radiators - this from the prior motorcycle arrangement? One of many things to adapt I am sure.
Click to expand...

Radiators are just temped up using the old Goldwing stuff. I have a repro Flathead radiator that I was originally going to use, it is also dual inlet/outlet. 1-3/4" to 1" adapters are on order.
Not going to worry about that until I sort out the damn backfire. Couple of thoughts and ideas on that ..
Carb jet kit arrived a couple of days ago; going to go back up the mountain in the next few days and haul the '32 back to PHX for the winter.
 
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Old Man Roger

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PugetDude said:

Radiators are just temped up using the old Goldwing stuff. I have a repro Flathead radiator that I was originally going to use, it is also dual inlet/outlet. 1-3/4" to 1" adapters are on order.
Not going to worry about that until I sort out the damn backfire. Couple of thoughts and ideas on that ..
Carb jet kit arrived a couple of days ago; going to go back up the mountain in the next few days and haul the '32 back to PHX for the winter.
Click to expand...
If the mountain elevation is high enough, your backfire might just fix itself.
 
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Old Man Roger

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PugetDude said:
What about a big road bike with a hot rod carburetor?🤔
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Wait, I think I got it backwards? The memory is the first to go after a bunch of concussions and a skull fracture..lol

If it were properly tuned for sea level, I think it would be a little rich at 6000 ft. Ya, less oxygen up high.

So ya, you going from high elevation to low will lean it out a little.
 
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rharman

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Bigblue&Goldie said:
I'm glad I have friends old enough to work on carburetors.....
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Funny how we think of things like that. I grew up with carbs, points & condenser, timing lights, dwell meters, etc. I still remember recurving the distributor on my Chevy LUV truck with a weights & springs kit from somewhere - long ago forgot who.
 
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larry4406

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PugetDude said:
Well, the casters on the fume extractor were really in bad shape. Luckily, I had a set of 5" swivel casters from an Ebay purchase last year, they bolted right on.
Got the fume extractor cleaned up and assembled and discovered it is way too big for my garage. It's a beast. Maybe time to consider plan B..IMG_20241012_130505247.jpg
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Fume extractor is too big - meaning its too powerful, or the footrpint/real estate required for it is too much?

What is Plan B?

Can you wall mount or hang it from the ceiling in a spot where its still useful?
 
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Old Man Roger

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I had about 12 casters fall apart like that all at once on the same day. I had some chemical in the garage, can’t remember which at the moment, but the container cracked. The chemical didn’t leak out, but the fumes did, and they must have been heavier than air.

Might have been muriatic acid or acetone.

I walked in the garage, didn’t smell anything, but noticed all the rubber from the casters just crumbled on the floor.
 
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zmotorsports

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rharman said:
Funny how we think of things like that. I grew up with carbs, points & condenser, timing lights, dwell meters, etc. I still remember recurving the distributor on my Chevy LUV truck with a weights & springs kit from somewhere - long ago forgot who.
Click to expand...

Agreed. I made a pretty penny working on carburetors, recurving distributors and for a while even converting from points ignition systems over to HEI for friends.

Just had a long time past client hit me up about rebuilding the carburetor on his boat but not sure if he'll wait until I get caught up on the jobs I've already promised out. He seemed pretty anxious to get off some but is having a hard time finding a shop that works on carbs. I told him that these days if they can't plug into the ECM, many mechanics are lost.
 
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Bigblue&Goldie

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I'm lucky that the only Carbs I've really had to deal with were on my Honda bikes back in high school / college. Even when racing VW motors our engine guys tuned the carbs and we never touched them.

The last time I worked on a carburetor was this summer when my "off the boat" Thai neighbor brought over his boat's carb to have me extract a screw he stripped out trying to rebuild it. He's been my neighbor for 4 years and I couldn't tell you his name, but he never ******* about my trucks or trailers overhanging into the street, so I was glad to help him out.
 
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PugetDude

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Well, got the '32 back down the mountain today. Had plenty of room on the trailer for the gantry crane so we broke it down and loaded it, too.

Looking forward to seeing how the ~5000' difference in altitude affects the carburetor. Would be awesome if it magically eliminated the backfire issue.
(But I am not holding my breath... )
IMG_20241017_152435104_HDR.jpg
 
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PugetDude

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Got the '32 unloaded and pushed into the garage about a minute before it started raining this morning. It started right up, but no real difference or improvement in the backfire issue... Checked all the plugs to ensure I have spark, all were good. But, noticed the front plug on the passenger side and the rear plug on the driver's side were a bit wet... Which, coincidentally line up with the two opposing square corners on the manifold adapter I built. Thinking maybe they are disrupting the flow to those two cylinders. Swirling/fuel dropping out of suspension?
IMG_20241018_121454957.jpg
I'm going to rework the adapter to see if it makes a difference.

More to follow.
 
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PugetDude

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Well, I got it running with the new adapter. Started up instantly, idles fine, but soon started backfiring, first on decel, then intermittently. Maybe a slight but noticeable improvement over the first box adapter I built. I'm beginning to think the Weber 38/38 is too much carb for the little 1.5L Goldwing engine. The barrel sizes are the same as the Honda carb but research is telling me that at 390CFM it's probably pumping about twice the flow I need for that size engine displacement. I have a couple of thoughts on that... ;) The rabbit hole is getting deeper and wider every day.

At this point it has become a personal challenge to sort this out and I am too damn stubborn to go back to the original Honda Goldwing Carburetor until I have spent way too much time and twice the $$ on alternative solutions. . :rolleyes:
 
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senlow

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PugetDude said:
Well, I got it running with the new adaper. Started up instantly, idles fine, but soon started backfiring, first on decel, then intermittently. Maybe a slight but a noticeable improvement over the first box adapter I built. I'm beginning to think the Weber 38/38 is too much carb for the little 1.5L Goldwing engine. The barrel sizes are the same as the Honda carb but research is telling me that at 390CFM it's probably pumping about twice the flow I need for that size engine displacement. I have a couple of thoughts on that... ;) The rabbit hole is getting deeper and wider every day.

At this point it has become a personal challenge to sort this out and I am too damn stubborn to go back to the original Honda Goldwing Carburetor until I have spent way too much time and twice the $$ on alternative solutions. . :rolleyes:
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It's been a long time since I worked with a carburetor, but I have a few thoughts.

First, I think you made a great choice in choosing a small displacement engine for a lightweight street rod. I'm it will work great once you get it dialed in. Buck the small block chevy trend. SBCs are like assholes. Everybody has one.

I'm positive that you already know this, but a carburetor is not a pump (blower). A carburetor will only flow as much air as the engine demands. The piston moving from TDC to BDC creates a vacuum and draws in air.

The carb you chose is not much bigger than you need. If I calculated correctly a 1.5L engine can draw a theoretical maximum of 291 CFM at 5500 RPM. That's only about 35% more air flow capacity than you need. The real cost of having excessive air flow capacity is less throttle response. I think that this is a tuning and jetting issue. The carb that you are adapting is probably jetted for a larger displacement engine. Unfortunately, it's been years since I worked on a carb and can't provide specific advice on dialing it in.

Years ago I used a pair of Weber 38 DCOE carbs (that is two, 2 barrel side draft carbs), on a 1.6L inline four cylinder. Granted, that engine twisted a little tighter at about 7000 RPM. That engine would max out the air flow capacity of a 390 CFM carb. I believe this shows the carb size you have should be workable.
 
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PugetDude

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senlow said:
It's been a long time since I worked with a carburetor, but I have a few thoughts.

First, I think you made a great choice in choosing a small displacement engine for a lightweight street rod. I'm it will work great once you get it dialed in. Buck the small block chevy trend. SBCs are like assholes. Everybody has one.

I'm positive that you already know this, but a carburetor is not a pump (blower). A carburetor will only flow as much air as the engine demands. The piston moving from TDC to BDC creates a vacuum and draws in air.

The carb you chose is not much bigger than you need. If I calculated correctly a 1.5L engine can draw a theoretical maximum of 291 CFM at 5500 RPM. That's only about 35% more air flow capacity than you need. The real cost of having excessive air flow capacity is less throttle response. I think that this is a tuning and jetting issue. The carb that you are adapting is probably jetted for a larger displacement engine. Unfortunately, it's been years since I worked on a carb and can't provide specific advice on dialing it in.

Years ago I used a pair of Weber 38 DCOE carbs (that is two, 2 barrel side draft carbs), on a 1.6L inline four cylinder. Granted, that engine twisted a little tighter at about 7000 RPM. That engine would max out the air flow capacity of a 390 CFM carb. I believe this shows the carb size you have should be workable.
Click to expand...
Thanks, I do have smaller jets on order for the Weber carb. Had to get them from eBay, shipping from China. Couldn't find anything smaller than 45 available here in the US. Ordered sizes 30-35-40, should be here in a couple of weeks. In the meantime I continue to dig the rabbit hole deeper.
 
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CGohring

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senlow said:
It's been a long time since I worked with a carburetor, but I have a few thoughts.

First, I think you made a great choice in choosing a small displacement engine for a lightweight street rod. I'm it will work great once you get it dialed in. Buck the small block chevy trend. SBCs are like assholes. Everybody has one.

I'm positive that you already know this, but a carburetor is not a pump (blower). A carburetor will only flow as much air as the engine demands. The piston moving from TDC to BDC creates a vacuum and draws in air.

The carb you chose is not much bigger than you need. If I calculated correctly a 1.5L engine can draw a theoretical maximum of 291 CFM at 5500 RPM. That's only about 35% more air flow capacity than you need. The real cost of having excessive air flow capacity is less throttle response. I think that this is a tuning and jetting issue. The carb that you are adapting is probably jetted for a larger displacement engine. Unfortunately, it's been years since I worked on a carb and can't provide specific advice on dialing it in.

Years ago I used a pair of Weber 38 DCOE carbs (that is two, 2 barrel side draft carbs), on a 1.6L inline four cylinder. Granted, that engine twisted a little tighter at about 7000 RPM. That engine would max out the air flow capacity of a 390 CFM carb. I believe this shows the carb size you have should be workable.
Click to expand...
Im a rank amateur at this, but if the engine is 1.5L, but only pulls air on every other stroke (intake), wouldn't the max volume be closer to 146 CFM?
 
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PugetDude

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Just for shits and giggles I built a quick adapter for one of the (6) Ford 94 2-barrel carburetors I accidentally bought on eBay a few years ago. (Helpful hint, don't bid on multiple auctions while on prescription meds for back spasms)🙄
IMG_20241021_110111823_HDR.jpg
It fired right up... No backfire but then the 70+ year old carb started leaking so bad that it was running wide open, had to shut it down quick. My adapter wasn't that well thought out, either. Countersunk bolt under the 94 carburetor wouldn't allow it to seal. Lesson learned...

That carb is rated at 150-160 cfm, so I might throw a rebuild kit in it and build a proper adapter. Gives me something to do until the smaller jets for the Weber get here, apparently they are on a slow boat from China...🤔
 
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Bob Heine

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PugetDude said:
I built a quick adapter for one of the (6) Ford 94 2-barrel carburetors I accidentally bought on eBay a few years ago.
Click to expand...
Scott, I had a pair of those on my Chevy 235 I6 back in the '60s. A stuck float gas washed the engine on first startup after a rebuild. Replaced a few bearings and rebuilt both 94s. Four decades later I sold that manifold/carb setup for $600 (cost me $35 in 1963). I have a thing for multi-carb setups.
Chevy Setup
Done 3 800.jpg
Fiat Setup
Dual Weber Setup.jpg
 
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