andyvh1959
Well-known member
Lots of impressive work.
I like the "Connizona" plate right near the center of the flag.
I like the "Connizona" plate right near the center of the flag.
Puget Dude’s creations and fabrications (Random project thread.)
- Thread starter PugetDude
- Start date
What else do you have hiding in there?
The deuce was the first thing put inside the shop. It’s also the only thing he ain’t touched in two years.
Actually Cam is right. (Sounds unusual doesn’t it)?
Pulled that out of a ratty pole barn behind a single wide trailer in Kingston, Washington in pieces a few years ago.
Literally in pieces. The original 32 frame rails were standing against the wall, the glass roadster body was buried under boxes that were full of parts. 49 8BA flat head on a stand, T5 transmission under a bench. Brought it home as a basket case. Haven’t worked on it a couple of years, been busy moving from WA to AZ and caring for the in-laws. Plan is to get back on it this winter.
Here’s a quick welding project I did this spring- simple trellises for the front courtyard and the golf course. Needed 16 of them, 11 horizontal and 5 vertical.
Built the frames out of 1x1 square tube and the lattice out of 3/8” rebar. Put adjustable feet on them to make installation easier. Measured down 8” from the top of the wall, drill a 1/2 hole , push in a lead anchor, then hang the trellis on single 1/4” lag bolt with a little piece of cpvc pipe as a spacer. Let the 3/4” legs drop down into a shallow hole (3-4 swipes with a masons hammer). Make sure the trellis is plumb, drive the legs down snug then tighten up a 3/8” bolt on each one to lock the legs in place. Went back and dumped a little concrete in the holes to keep everything secured.
Decided to just let these weather naturally.
it would be a chore to repaint them when the bougainvillea and passion vine fills in.
Funny story on the square tubing. When I moved from Arizona to Washington in 2011 I left a bunch of steel tubing, angle and plate with my buddy Ron (also a hobby welder and budding blacksmith); figured he’d go through it pretty quickly. When we moved back in 2019 he still had all of the 1” square tube in his shed! So we moved it back to my house and turned it into trellises.
Built the frames out of 1x1 square tube and the lattice out of 3/8” rebar. Put adjustable feet on them to make installation easier. Measured down 8” from the top of the wall, drill a 1/2 hole , push in a lead anchor, then hang the trellis on single 1/4” lag bolt with a little piece of cpvc pipe as a spacer. Let the 3/4” legs drop down into a shallow hole (3-4 swipes with a masons hammer). Make sure the trellis is plumb, drive the legs down snug then tighten up a 3/8” bolt on each one to lock the legs in place. Went back and dumped a little concrete in the holes to keep everything secured.
Decided to just let these weather naturally.it would be a chore to repaint them when the bougainvillea and passion vine fills in.
Funny story on the square tubing. When I moved from Arizona to Washington in 2011 I left a bunch of steel tubing, angle and plate with my buddy Ron (also a hobby welder and budding blacksmith); figured he’d go through it pretty quickly. When we moved back in 2019 he still had all of the 1” square tube in his shed! So we moved it back to my house and turned it into trellises.
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Jayman17
Well-known member
That address marker is very nice and so creative. Looks good with the rusty patina.
I didn’t realize you lived in AZ before your period of living in WA. Did you move to WA for a job?
Now back home in AZ for retirement.
Jay
I didn’t realize you lived in AZ before your period of living in WA. Did you move to WA for a job?
Now back home in AZ for retirement.
Jay
Thanks, Tony. The view out the back of the house pales in comparison to the view of the Superstition Mountains out the front.
Damn Scott, You have a great eye! these are all awesome projects! What else do you have hiding in there? That is one awesome view out of your garage door
We don’t get a lot of snow here but do see this about every other year or so
Just a quick little project I squeezed in between some of the bigger stuff I have been working on. My wife is really big on Christmas and likes to throw a neighborhood party every year. She’s been asking me to make her a big charcuterie board for a while. Decided I would get it done in time for the party so I dug into what’s left of my hardwood stash and came up with enough shorts to make one. I had oak, maple, butternut, padauk, canary wood, teak, and hickory I have been dragging around for years and two pieces of beautifully figured Claro Walnut from an old gun stock project. Put those in the center.
I would have preferred the boards ran in the long direction but she liked it this way. I know it’s stronger with the glue joints perpendicular to the handles, but that wasn’t a hill I wanted to die on.
Handles were a fun project, I had 2 little pieces of leftover 5/8 ornamental iron baluster stock in my scrap bucket so I clamped them in my big outdoor vise, heated cherry red with the oxy/propane torch and gave each piece a couple of twists with a pair of 12” Crescent wrenches. Re heated and bent the ends to 90 around the vise jaws (because it was right there, the size looked about right and I didn’t have to measure anything.) Trimmed the ends, welded on a 1-1/4” square piece of 3/16” flat bar, then ground the welds smooth and blended them into the handles. Final step was to drill and blind tap for 1/4 bolts to hold them on. Hit the high spots with a 120 grit flapper wheel, then clear coated them with 3 coats of spray lacquer. 
I put four 1/4 thick by 1-1/2” diameter non- slip feet on the bottom for it to sit on. Then, just for insurance because I didn’t like the way the glue joints were parallel to the handles I added a couple of 1/4” x 3/4” hard maple cleats. Screwed the center down tight, elongated the screw holes on the ends a little bit to allow for the wood to expand and contract without breaking a glue joint. They are invisible in use.
3 coats of butcher block oil and this one’s done.
I would have preferred the boards ran in the long direction but she liked it this way. I know it’s stronger with the glue joints perpendicular to the handles, but that wasn’t a hill I wanted to die on.
Handles were a fun project, I had 2 little pieces of leftover 5/8 ornamental iron baluster stock in my scrap bucket so I clamped them in my big outdoor vise, heated cherry red with the oxy/propane torch and gave each piece a couple of twists with a pair of 12” Crescent wrenches. Re heated and bent the ends to 90 around the vise jaws (because it was right there, the size looked about right and I didn’t have to measure anything.) Trimmed the ends, welded on a 1-1/4” square piece of 3/16” flat bar, then ground the welds smooth and blended them into the handles. Final step was to drill and blind tap for 1/4 bolts to hold them on. Hit the high spots with a 120 grit flapper wheel, then clear coated them with 3 coats of spray lacquer. I put four 1/4 thick by 1-1/2” diameter non- slip feet on the bottom for it to sit on. Then, just for insurance because I didn’t like the way the glue joints were parallel to the handles I added a couple of 1/4” x 3/4” hard maple cleats. Screwed the center down tight, elongated the screw holes on the ends a little bit to allow for the wood to expand and contract without breaking a glue joint. They are invisible in use.3 coats of butcher block oil and this one’s done.
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rattle_snake
Well-known member
Good to see other having to speed up the rust process. bet you don't miss that part of WA.
When we moved from AZ to the Olympic Peninsula people used to ask what we did in the summer. I would tell them that if it happened to fall on a Sunday we’d have a picnic.
First year we were there we went to a concert on the waterfront for the 4th of July; it was so freaking cold everyone was wearing coats!
I also lived in Spokane for twenty years; Dry side of the state, but don’t miss the winters.
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It’s at our cabin up in the White Mountains.
So where did the flag end up?
6500’ elevation, 2.5 hours from Phoenix.
Going to be part of our entry in the 4th of July parade next year; we won “Most Patriotic” this year with our little Uncle Sam trailer. Going to up our game this year, thinking along the lines of full size ICBM missile on a trailer like the North Koreans…
Finally getting stuff organized.
I bought a bunch of gym lockers for garage storage when we first bought this place. Paid $5/door for them. Used all the 12” square lockers with my 46” Husky roller cabinets, completely filled one side wall of the garage. Tony (Bearsfan) had posted pics of his bench with some galvanized diamond plate pegboard behind it. I really liked the look so I ordered 12 pieces from Home Depot. (Out of stock now)
I bought a bunch of gym lockers for garage storage when we first bought this place. Paid $5/door for them. Used all the 12” square lockers with my 46” Husky roller cabinets, completely filled one side wall of the garage. Tony (Bearsfan) had posted pics of his bench with some galvanized diamond plate pegboard behind it. I really liked the look so I ordered 12 pieces from Home Depot. (Out of stock now)
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TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Cool, That cemetery few minutes from my place.With the almost-rolling workbench done for now it was time to move on to another project- a memorial bench for my Father in Law for our side yard landscaping project. First step was the base for the legs.We were working on a large remodel in our big vacant gravel side yard, wanted a fitting memorial for him, and a place for my wife to visit him here- so we sprinkeld a few of his ashes around the tree we planted behind this bench, the rest are interred with my MIL at the National Cemetery in CaveCreek, AZ.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Wife has been wanting me to build something with address on it since we moved in. Just over 10yrs ago now!Since these are in no particular order, here’s the address marker I made for the house. We’re in a small gated community of 45 homes on ~acre lots; most of the neighbors have their addresses on boulders or flagstone. I’m more of a metal guy, so I decided to integrate both.
The previous owner had a nice thick piece of flagstone and some ceramic tile numbers she was going to use for her address marker. I liked the flagstone, so I kept it and sent the tiles to a local thrift shop.
Wanted something that reflected the mining heritage of the Superstition Mountains and incorporate the rusted iron design elements we already had going on the property.
Had a bunch of 3/8” rebar and 1x1 tubing left over from the trellises I built for the courtyard and golf course so I used that. First step was to build a rebar cage for the Palo Verde stone we already had in the landscape drainage.After the cage was complete I scrounged up enough sheet metal to built the bulwarks. Outside wall were cut from 16 gage steel purlin stock, the inside walls were cut out of a couple of old 2’ recessed light troffers. (did mention I am a bit of a scrounger, didn’t I?)The tops were new 20 gauge that were just hand bent and tacked into place. After A couple of hundred tack welds the corners were ground smooth and blended.
Next step was to hit all the flats with a flap wheel to remove all the paint and prepare for the patina.
Best way I have found to put an instant rust patina on steel is to spray it with a mixture of vinegar, salt, and hydrogen peroxide. It will foam up as it works, don’t try to wipe it off- just let it go, it will disappear as it ages.Formed and poured a little pad to bolt this to. Used it as an opportunity to get rid of more pieces of scrap rebar, etc.-tacked together a little reinforcing cage, then poured three bags of ready mix. Added a bottle of buff concrete color let the slab blend into the landscape gravel.
Ready to install the marker, just put in a couple of Tapcons to keep in in place, then filled the rebar cage with 4”+ Palo Verde stone. Top bolts on with four 1/4” bolts, nuts were welded into the frame and ground flush during fabrication.
I actually tried to copper plate the steel numbers with copper sulfate using instructions I found online but it didn’t really work. I wanted them to weather out naturally to a copper verdigris finish, but that might be a project for a later date. The numbers were bandsawed out of 3/16” plate with 1/4” bolts welded to the back as stand offs. They’re just friction fit into 1/4” holes in the flagstone so I can just pop them out and get them plated if I decide to go that route.
TimeWarpF100
Well-known member
Maybe after I retire I will have time to organize stuff. I want to restore a lot of my tools to NEW condition also. The ones bought back in the 70's are looking pretty rough like my cherry picker it has spent 75% or more of it's life outside in the elements. It's now got a broken wheel. Seen better days.Finally getting stuff organized.
I bought a bunch of gym lockers for garage storage when we first bought this place. Paid $5/door for them. Used all the 12” square lockers with my 46” Husky roller cabinets, completely filled one side wall of the garage. Tony (Bearsfan) had posted pics of his bench with some galvanized diamond plate pegboard behind it. I really liked the look so I ordered 12 pieces from Home Depot. (Out of stock now)
Your shop is way too clean!
I'm drooling pretty hard at this. I want to do this for machine tools. Just got set aside some fun money for it.We’re going to call this “WackyWeldment Weekend” here in the shop.
First up was adding a receiver hitch to the locker bench. When I built it I used a piece of lightweight 2x2 tube across the end because that is what I had at the time. It was ok for light duty but wasn’t able to take a standard receiver tube. I did make two custom size tubes for the light gauge receiver but wanted something a little more substantial when my buddy Ron dropped off a Hossfeld knock-off bender he bought years ago at HF and never used. I had a picked up a couple of short pieces of 2” receiver tube since then so I dug them out and went to went scrounging through my scrap pile for angle iron for mounts ang gussets; the receiver tube was the only new steel
I was too lazy to tear apart the finished bench so I spent twice as much time making up this mount instead. Time will tell if it’s going to be strong enough.
It’s attached with lag bolts and 1/4” self drilling teks. 
Should be strong enough if I don’t get too carried away.
The bender was mounted on a pedestal so I removed it and just copied the mounting plate; cut it out of 3/16 plate with the angle grinder and rounded the corners with the 2x72 belt grinder.
Only change to the mount was that I drilled and tapped the rearmost hole instead of using a through bolt, it was covered by the receiver tube. It was a 10mm x1.5 hole.
I had a second piece of receiver tube that used to be part of an old trailer hitch, I decided to finally do something with the brake drum stand a neighbor gave me. It came out of a high school when they dropped their Industrial Arts program..
It had a piece of 1/4” plate on top that had half an inch of weld beads, arc strikes, bb’s and boogers on it. Someone had also taken a torch to the 4x4 column, it was cut most of the way through about halfway around on three sides First step was to cut the top off.
Nothing worth saving here, straight to the trash.
Sides were welded up next, then ground flush.
After the top of the column was squared up I attached the receiver I cut out of the old hitch. I left the short section of cross member to give me a little more height and have a place to insert a bar if I need to keep the stand from rotating if and when I need more leverage. 
Ground everything smooth, wire brushed the drum and then hit it with a coat of rust converter. Two coats of hammer tone gray and it’s ready to use. 
To be continued… weekend isn’t over yet.
First up was adding a receiver hitch to the locker bench. When I built it I used a piece of lightweight 2x2 tube across the end because that is what I had at the time. It was ok for light duty but wasn’t able to take a standard receiver tube. I did make two custom size tubes for the light gauge receiver but wanted something a little more substantial when my buddy Ron dropped off a Hossfeld knock-off bender he bought years ago at HF and never used. I had a picked up a couple of short pieces of 2” receiver tube since then so I dug them out and went to went scrounging through my scrap pile for angle iron for mounts ang gussets; the receiver tube was the only new steel
I was too lazy to tear apart the finished bench so I spent twice as much time making up this mount instead. Time will tell if it’s going to be strong enough.It’s attached with lag bolts and 1/4” self drilling teks. Should be strong enough if I don’t get too carried away.The bender was mounted on a pedestal so I removed it and just copied the mounting plate; cut it out of 3/16 plate with the angle grinder and rounded the corners with the 2x72 belt grinder.
Only change to the mount was that I drilled and tapped the rearmost hole instead of using a through bolt, it was covered by the receiver tube. It was a 10mm x1.5 hole. I had a second piece of receiver tube that used to be part of an old trailer hitch, I decided to finally do something with the brake drum stand a neighbor gave me. It came out of a high school when they dropped their Industrial Arts program..
It had a piece of 1/4” plate on top that had half an inch of weld beads, arc strikes, bb’s and boogers on it. Someone had also taken a torch to the 4x4 column, it was cut most of the way through about halfway around on three sides First step was to cut the top off.
Nothing worth saving here, straight to the trash.Sides were welded up next, then ground flush.
After the top of the column was squared up I attached the receiver I cut out of the old hitch. I left the short section of cross member to give me a little more height and have a place to insert a bar if I need to keep the stand from rotating if and when I need more leverage. Ground everything smooth, wire brushed the drum and then hit it with a coat of rust converter. Two coats of hammer tone gray and it’s ready to use. To be continued… weekend isn’t over yet.
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Since I had hitch fever I decided to tackle the Milwaukee portaband mount I have been putting off for too long. Originally this was going to be a SWAG-inspired table but one thing I learned from the simple DeWalt portaband vise mount I cobbled up ten years ago is that it generates a LOT of swarf; too much to have on top of a table where I am working. So I decided to use one of the lightweight tube mounts I made up and put together a little weldment to hold the bandsaw off the edge of the bench where 90% of the swarf can just drop into a trash can. Cleanup should be a lot easier.
I had a nice piece of aluminum plate I had been saving for the table; so I utilized my CAD (cardboard aided design) skills to layout the table.
Test fitted it, then took the CAD to the next level and utilized FEA (f*ckup expectational avoidance) to cut the shape out of masonite to re-verify the fit. That way I could use also the saw to cut the heavy aluminum plate.
Had to do a little file work on the threaded bosses where the table mounts to the saw to get the table perpendicular to the blade; happy with the result.
Time to fab the mount for the saw.
I used a piece of 1-1/4” heavy perforated channel that was left over from the trailer jack mount to replace the portaband handle, used the existing socket head cap screw to attach it. A piece of 1-1/2” square tube was the same width as the handle, so I used it as the riser. Two little tabs hold the handle securely in place. These were the tips off a couple of Stanley heavy strap hinges I cut off who knows when. Knew they would come in handy some day, perfect for this since I was able to use an existing hole to plug weld them on.
The saw is attached with just the one bolt, the tabs are a tight friction fit for support and to prevent lateral movement. It’s really solid during use. 
Here’s a couple of shots of it in place. It’s lightweight, easy to move and store and doesn’t take up bench space like the SWAG design I originally planned on building.
I had purchased a Kreg switch to turn it on and off (trigger is Zip-tied down) but it was too bulky and the mounting tabs were in the wrong position. So I just mounted a heavy duty power strip on the end of the bench, will use the on/off switch on it. 
Thats a lot handier than the big Kreg switch and will give me power there for other things.
I debated whether to slot the table in front of the blade or behind it. Benefit to the slot in the front is you don’t have to remove the table to replace the blade., Ended up slotting it behind, it makes the front of the table where you’re cutting a lot stronger. Takes less than a minute to remove the table, two 10-24 screws with a stubby P2 screwdriver.
Since the saw is fully supported independent of the table, blade changes are actually easier, no wrestling with saw and blade on the bench.
I had a nice piece of aluminum plate I had been saving for the table; so I utilized my CAD (cardboard aided design) skills to layout the table.
Test fitted it, then took the CAD to the next level and utilized FEA (f*ckup expectational avoidance) to cut the shape out of masonite to re-verify the fit. That way I could use also the saw to cut the heavy aluminum plate.Had to do a little file work on the threaded bosses where the table mounts to the saw to get the table perpendicular to the blade; happy with the result. Time to fab the mount for the saw.I used a piece of 1-1/4” heavy perforated channel that was left over from the trailer jack mount to replace the portaband handle, used the existing socket head cap screw to attach it. A piece of 1-1/2” square tube was the same width as the handle, so I used it as the riser. Two little tabs hold the handle securely in place. These were the tips off a couple of Stanley heavy strap hinges I cut off who knows when. Knew they would come in handy some day, perfect for this since I was able to use an existing hole to plug weld them on.
The saw is attached with just the one bolt, the tabs are a tight friction fit for support and to prevent lateral movement. It’s really solid during use. Here’s a couple of shots of it in place. It’s lightweight, easy to move and store and doesn’t take up bench space like the SWAG design I originally planned on building.I had purchased a Kreg switch to turn it on and off (trigger is Zip-tied down) but it was too bulky and the mounting tabs were in the wrong position. So I just mounted a heavy duty power strip on the end of the bench, will use the on/off switch on it. Thats a lot handier than the big Kreg switch and will give me power there for other things.I debated whether to slot the table in front of the blade or behind it. Benefit to the slot in the front is you don’t have to remove the table to replace the blade., Ended up slotting it behind, it makes the front of the table where you’re cutting a lot stronger. Takes less than a minute to remove the table, two 10-24 screws with a stubby P2 screwdriver.
Since the saw is fully supported independent of the table, blade changes are actually easier, no wrestling with saw and blade on the bench.Attachments
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Finished up the last two hitch mounts. The Wilton bullet vise mount was made from the round adjustable base from the Dish Network antenna I took down, it happened to be the right diameter. Trimmed the flange a bit, then welded that to a 15" long piece of the smaller receiver tube. I just dropped the vise in place over two 7/16” hex bolts and then welded the bolts to the base. Simple and easy. I may switch it over to the heavy wall tube/mount in the future if this is too light-duty. 
Last welding project of the weekend was to weld my little bench top English Wheel to a piece of receiver tube. Trimmed the protruding vise mount off the back side first. This was a impulse purchase, I think around $75 delivered, came with a full set of dies. Box was destroyed when it arrived but all the parts were there. I figured the dies were worth $75 if I need to build a different or stronger frame. Haven’t used it yet, will report how and if it works when I try it out on a little project I have in mind for the 32. 
Last welding project of the weekend was to weld my little bench top English Wheel to a piece of receiver tube. Trimmed the protruding vise mount off the back side first. This was a impulse purchase, I think around $75 delivered, came with a full set of dies. Box was destroyed when it arrived but all the parts were there. I figured the dies were worth $75 if I need to build a different or stronger frame. Haven’t used it yet, will report how and if it works when I try it out on a little project I have in mind for the 32.
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Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
Just catching up; that bench is awesome, I haven't seen it before this thread.
royce
Well-known member
Beautiful job on the portaband mount PugetSince I had hitch fever I decided to tackle the Milwaukee portaband mount I have been putting off for too long. Originally this was going to be a SWAG-inspired table but one thing I learned from the simple DeWalt portaband vise mount I cobbled up ten years ago is that it generates a LOT of swarf; too much to have on top of a table where I am working. So I decided to use one of the lightweight tube mounts I made up and put together a little weldment to hold the bandsaw off the edge of the bench where 90% of the swarf can just drop into a trash can. Cleanup should be a lot easier.
I had a nice piece of aluminum plate I had been saving for the table; so I utilized my CAD (cardboard aided design) skills to layout the table.
I used a piece of 1-1/4” heavy perforated channel that was left over from the trailer jack mount to replace the portaband handle, used the existing socket head cap screw to attach it. A piece of 1-1/2” square tube was the same width as the handle, so I used it as the riser. Two little tabs hold the handle securely in place. These were the tips off a couple of Stanley heavy strap hinges I cut off who knows when. Knew they would come in handy some day, perfect for this since I was able to use an existing hole to plug weld them on.
I debated whether to slot the table in front of the blade or behind it. Benefit to the slot in the front is you don’t have to remove the table to replace the blade., Ended up slotting it behind, it makes the front of the table where you’re cutting a lot stronger. Takes less than a minute to remove the table, two 10-24 screws with a stubby P2 screwdriver.
Started another little project yesterday, trying to whittle down my steel inventory and get everything organized. I have benchtop tools taking up too much space and they always seem to be in the way; I am always playing Tetris moving them around. Figured I could build a few simple rolling carts that would allow me to double them up and make it easier to roll them in/out when I needed to use them.
Started by cutting a bunch of 1 x2 rectangular tube for the top and bottom frames.
I really like this antique typesetting table as a welding table, it’s really heavy and dead flat- just wish it was bigger.
Started by cutting a bunch of 1 x2 rectangular tube for the top and bottom frames.
I really like this antique typesetting table as a welding table, it’s really heavy and dead flat- just wish it was bigger.A full stick of 1” S40 pipe followed me home sometime in the past, so I decided to use that for the legs? risers? sides? ends? ( not sure what the proper terminology would be for these.) on the tool carts.
For this cart I cut them to 30” long- with 4” casters it will put the top at 36”- same height as my rolling work table.
When I built the first cart, I sized it to fit my Bosch jobsite saw and Ryobi oscillating spindle sander. It’s lower to give me a comfortable working height with either one. Didn’t take progress photos on that one, but the design is the same, the second one is just taller and narrower. 
These roll on 4” locking swivel casters I bought on AmazonWarehouse. I just plug welded them to the bottom frame through the mounting bolt holes.
The tops are plywood, they are bolted to mounting tabs I welded to the inside of the frame, they end up flush with the top of the frame. First one was 3/4”; second one is going to be 1/2”; again I am trying to use what I have on hand instead of adding to my current collection of new, old, used, and repurposed materials.
I’ve found that I often need a little clamping action to secure whatever tool I am using. Don’t want to bolt anything down, it would defeat the purpose of these being portable and easy to change over.
A 4” spring clamp or two on the front seems to work just fine, haven’t had any issues with the saw tipping or the sander walking.
For this cart I cut them to 30” long- with 4” casters it will put the top at 36”- same height as my rolling work table.
When I built the first cart, I sized it to fit my Bosch jobsite saw and Ryobi oscillating spindle sander. It’s lower to give me a comfortable working height with either one. Didn’t take progress photos on that one, but the design is the same, the second one is just taller and narrower. These roll on 4” locking swivel casters I bought on AmazonWarehouse. I just plug welded them to the bottom frame through the mounting bolt holes.The tops are plywood, they are bolted to mounting tabs I welded to the inside of the frame, they end up flush with the top of the frame. First one was 3/4”; second one is going to be 1/2”; again I am trying to use what I have on hand instead of adding to my current collection of new, old, used, and repurposed materials.
I’ve found that I often need a little clamping action to secure whatever tool I am using. Don’t want to bolt anything down, it would defeat the purpose of these being portable and easy to change over.
A 4” spring clamp or two on the front seems to work just fine, haven’t had any issues with the saw tipping or the sander walking.
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readhead
Well-known member
You have been pretty busy. Nice work. Since I retired a few months ago I have been busy doing house stuff that has been put off to long. Need a job again so I can rest.
nonhog
Well-known member
Great thread! Coming from a Puyallup guy now in Tucson.
Just went back through your thread this morning, I really enjoy checking out your projects and the scenery out your door, I did have to look up what the word charcuterie meant I get a kick out of your humor, like the glove next to the cut off top from the old school stand.
I'm also thinking through some kind of portable stand design that will allow me to be able to mount and use, then store all my power tools on, so you might see that come to fruition in a couple of years
Did I spy a vintage gas pump in your garage in one of your photo's?
Keep posting your cool projects and have a happy Thanksgiving holiday
I get a kick out of your humor, like the glove next to the cut off top from the old school stand.I'm also thinking through some kind of portable stand design that will allow me to be able to mount and use, then store all my power tools on, so you might see that come to fruition in a couple of years
Did I spy a vintage gas pump in your garage in one of your photo's?
Keep posting your cool projects and have a happy Thanksgiving holiday
This isn’t much of a project but it’s become one my shop favorites. Since my rolling locker cart is, for the time being a stationary island I went to plan B- a real movable work table.
I had a bunch of Kee fittings I bought from Zoro on a flash sale a few years ago. Cut up some 1” galvanized pipe and put together a 3’x5’ rolling table with 5” locking swivel casters. The Kee fittings have proved to be a lot sturdier than I thought. Originally this was going to be a temporary solution, I think it will outlast me.
Top is a 36” x 80 “ solid core exterior door. It was really too big, so I cut it down to 60” long. Size is better, it’s really
handy. I use it for assembly, have rolled it outside and used it for welding, grinding, painting, etc . 3x5 size means I can also drop a piece of 1/4” Hardibacker tile board on it and weld on it without worrying about burning it up.
I put a piece of 1/8” hardboard on top to protect the door, it’s taken a lot of abuse. It does look like I need to put a few more brad nails in it….
I had a bunch of Kee fittings I bought from Zoro on a flash sale a few years ago. Cut up some 1” galvanized pipe and put together a 3’x5’ rolling table with 5” locking swivel casters. The Kee fittings have proved to be a lot sturdier than I thought. Originally this was going to be a temporary solution, I think it will outlast me.
Top is a 36” x 80 “ solid core exterior door. It was really too big, so I cut it down to 60” long. Size is better, it’s reallyhandy. I use it for assembly, have rolled it outside and used it for welding, grinding, painting, etc . 3x5 size means I can also drop a piece of 1/4” Hardibacker tile board on it and weld on it without worrying about burning it up.
I put a piece of 1/8” hardboard on top to protect the door, it’s taken a lot of abuse. It does look like I need to put a few more brad nails in it….
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driftpin
Well-known member
Great designs, using leftover stock and productive head-scratching contemplation. I have a Porter-Cable portable bandsaw, no SWAG design available, but if I really wanted to, here's proof something could be done. I have what I expect to be a lifetime supply of bands for it, off a ZORO sale, so maybe I should get busy. Thanks for the ideas.
readhead
Well-known member
I have had several cell tower jobs that specified Kee or similar fittings for guardrails. I was skeptical at first but was impressed with how well they worked. Their reasoning was it was easy to disassemble to change out equipment.
I first used them on a big structural steel outdoor staircase at my old lake place in NE Washington. On that one I welded a 3” long stub of 1-1/4” pipe to the columns (weld was on the inside of the pipe so it didn’t show) and then just slipped Kee elbows on the ends and tees in the middle of the runs. Any splices were **** welded and hidden under the tee fittings. It looked great with the structural steel and held up better than anything outside of SS, which was cost-prohibitive.
Finished up the fab on the second tool cart. I had a small piece of 14 gauge on hand so I used it for the mounting tabs. The 1/2” plywood was a tight friction fit, so the tabs stayed in place when I tacked them in place.
I was just finishing bolting the plywood panels in place w/10-32 x 7/8 truss head screws and whiz-lock nuts when my wife brought me an Amazon Warehouse package the UPS guy had just dropped off. It was the 4” swivel casters I was waiting on. These were all plug welded in place less than 10 minutes after they arrived.
This one is ready for paint.
14” Evolution cutoff saw goes on top of this one; probably put the Thermal Dynamics plasma cutter on the bottom. It got bumped off the weld cart when my wife bought me a Miller Diversion TIG for my birthday..
Looks like I will have room for a drawer or two under there….
I was just finishing bolting the plywood panels in place w/10-32 x 7/8 truss head screws and whiz-lock nuts when my wife brought me an Amazon Warehouse package the UPS guy had just dropped off. It was the 4” swivel casters I was waiting on. These were all plug welded in place less than 10 minutes after they arrived.
This one is ready for paint.14” Evolution cutoff saw goes on top of this one; probably put the Thermal Dynamics plasma cutter on the bottom. It got bumped off the weld cart when my wife bought me a Miller Diversion TIG for my birthday..Looks like I will have room for a drawer or two under there….
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slowtwitch73
Well-known member
Some good stuff in here....
Bigblue&Goldie
Well-known member
I need your paver guy's phone number.....I'm pretty sure he can handle my track house walk way and back patio.
those are some pretty good welds on the new cart After a year of watching CL, finally found a mill/drill that wasn’t totally thrashed, abused or covered in rust at a reasonable price near me. This one was in Apache Junction, AZ; the guy had a little machine shop he was downsizing and didn’t need a second mill. It had a powered table feed and a DRO on the quill. $1400; not a smoking deal but I was happy with it.
I rented a little drop deck trailer to bring it home; the seller loaned me his pallet jack to move it with.
I was on my own on this move, my buddy Ron was working and my wife was back East visiting grandkids. The drop deck trailer made this an easy job. 
A few boards made a shallow ramp, but I did tie the mill to the jack to ensure it didn’t tip when it rolled down off the trailer. 
Put some cribbing where I wanted the mill, and rocked/walked it off the pallet.
In place, just need leveling feet.
I rented a little drop deck trailer to bring it home; the seller loaned me his pallet jack to move it with.
I was on my own on this move, my buddy Ron was working and my wife was back East visiting grandkids. The drop deck trailer made this an easy job. A few boards made a shallow ramp, but I did tie the mill to the jack to ensure it didn’t tip when it rolled down off the trailer. Put some cribbing where I wanted the mill, and rocked/walked it off the pallet.In place, just need leveling feet.