pulling fiber optic network cable for detached shop

[rjacobs]

Sounds like jblnut has you mostly covered regarding the fiber. But I would also encourage you to run 1-1/4" conduit instead of 1". And run innerduct inside the conduit. The I/O cable will be fine.

I dont see where I ever mentioned 1" conduit.

Above I posted 1.5"(to guarantee the large sweep bends).

1.25 or 1.5, the cost difference is probably negligible.

The guy on the UI forum recommended running the fiber in 1.25" PE sprinkler line which you can buy bulk rolls of for stupid cheap...but im pretty sure my builder wont go for that and will only offer gray conduit. If I was doing it myself the PE sprinkler line is an interesting option, but this will be run and stubbed up through the concrete pour on both sides so im like 99% sure the builder will only use actual gray conduit.

 

[rjacobs]

The biggest problem with pulling pre-terminated multi-mode fiber is a lot of the time the ends are damaged. At least once a year I go out and splice ends onto pre-terminated fiber that has had the ends pull off or damaged so badly they won't work.

Most of the time the conduit and sweeps are too small.

Im specing 1.25 or 1.5" conduit.

And the cable I am ordering, I am ordering a pull loop on it which has mesh jacketing over the ends and then gets cut off, so shouldnt have broken ends.

 

[Slednut]

Im specing 1.25 or 1.5" conduit.

And the cable I am ordering, I am ordering a pull loop on it which has mesh jacketing over the ends and then gets cut off, so shouldnt have broken ends.

I would wait until you receive the cable before deciding on the size of conduit.

I just re-spliced a pre-terminated cable at our local rodeo grounds. It was a six fiber with SC ends. They had to cut off both ends because it wouldn't fit through the 1" conduit.

What type of ends are on the fiber (LC, SC)? LC is the way to go because of its smaller size. The loop they put on the end of the cable is good if the pull is easy.

Once you get it all installed you'll need to clean the ends before plugging them into your equipment. You can use 99 percent isopropyl alcohol and lint free pads.

Make sure you dry the ends with a dry lint free pad immediately after the wet cleaning. The ends will be dirty from the factory. Once recapped the ends will need to be cleaned again.

 

[rjacobs]

I would wait until you receive the cable before deciding on the size of conduit.

I just re-spliced a pre-terminated cable at our local rodeo grounds. It was a six fiber with SC ends. They had to cut off both ends because it wouldn't fit through the 1" conduit.

What type of ends are on the fiber (LC, SC)? LC is the way to go because of its smaller size. The loop they put on the end of the cable is good if the pull is easy.

Once you get it all installed you'll need to clean the ends before plugging them into your equipment. You can use 99 percent isopropyl alcohol and lint free pads.

Make sure you dry the ends with a dry lint free pad immediately after the wet cleaning. The ends will be dirty from the factory. Once recapped the ends will need to be cleaned again.

LC ends is what I am specing as that is what plugs into the Ubiquiti SFP adapters.

Like I said my plan originally was 1.5" conduit, definitely not 1", way to small.

The pull "should" be easy as it "should" only contain 2 90 degree sweeps. It will be stubbed out of the concrete, go straight down, 90 degree sweep, through the underground run, then sweep back up 90 degrees and come up the other side.

 

[Slednut]

LC ends is what I am specing as that is what plugs into the Ubiquiti SFP adapters.

Like I said my plan originally was 1.5" conduit, definitely not 1", way to small.

The pull "should" be easy as it "should" only contain 2 90 degree sweeps. It will be stubbed out of the concrete, go straight down, 90 degree sweep, through the underground run, then sweep back up 90 degrees and come up the other side.

Sounds good, you're going to be really happy with the circuit, not having to worry about power influence is a great thing.

 

[Falcon67]

FWIW - my cheap bottom dollar Cat 5E unrated for anything cable has been in a conduit from house to shop, 35' under ground, for 8 years. Also runs right through a nest of 11 120V power runs and three 240v power runs. It plugs into a cheap Netgear 5 port switch hung on the wall that has one Ubiquity LT AP on it and a couple of TVs.

No issues. If I want to play with fiber, I have 68,000 feet of it at work.

 

[rjacobs]

Just to bring this back as things are moving a little, slowly, but moving. I dont believe I will be able to build the shop at the same time as the house, but I still wanted to get a clean fiber install from inside of the house to outside that I can hook up later.

The builder is going to run me a fiber line from the service entrance to where I plan to have all of my networking equipment. Planning on 4 fibers, but might run 6. There is confusion on WHAT internet service is in the neighborhood as the builder did not develop the neighborhood, so there MAY be fiber in the neighborhood. They are finding out.

I ordered one of these boxes that they will install at the service entrance.
https://www.aflglobal.com/Products/.../OptiNID-500-Optical-Demarcation-Closure.aspx

I talked to one of my IT buddies and he has a full setup for fusing fiber. Otherwise he said using LC to LC connectors works also, and this box is setup for that already. It can take 6 pairs of LC connectors with the proper adapter plate, it doesnt come with a plate, but ill deal with that later.

Once I know how long of a cable I need I will order it up.

 

[Slednut]

I took an enclosure like that, cut everything out and made this. I made a piece of angle out of aluminum to mount the adapter plate on.

The enclosure is for a FTTP ONT.

 

[rjacobs]

I took an enclosure like that, cut everything out and made this. I made a piece of angle out of aluminum to mount the adapter plate on.

The enclosure is for a FTTP ONT.

Looks good.

 

[Ben86]

The reason to use fiber is because you should never connect network devices via copper unless they share the same ground. Even in datacenters, and two devices are only feet from each other, if they're not on the same ground, use fiber.

Ethernet uses the ground state as part of the signaling, which not only means the differences in potential and cause noise, but you can get DC power flows over the network equipment and can burn stuff out over time.

I forget the distance rule, but there is also another complexity in that even if two devices share the same ground, they should be no further than some number of yards from the ground line makes contact with the earth. Generally not an issue within a single dwelling unless you have a huge house. This is part of the reason why fiber is so prevalent in data centers. You don't need to concern yourself with grounding issues if you use fiber everywhere, except possibly within the same rack.

 

[ard]

Seems like a good place to ask a quick question (since there is significant expertise herein...)

I have a 300 ft run from house to shop/barn.

Replacing a old telco circuit, with a new line for both telephone AND internet. (two cables) Will use underground rated wire this time...

Here's the problem.... conduit is 3/4". Two 90s, thats it.

What should I do??? Two wires I can pull. Fiber + telephone? Dont think fiber will survive. with terminations, likely no way.... but even un-terminated....?? Will it?

Feedback appreciated....

PS conduit is under mature landscaping...concrete walkways, pads and walls.

 

[rjacobs]

Are the 90 degrees turns sweeps or hard 90's? also do you have the equipment on both ends to deal with fiber? I.e. Sfp ports on switches?

ETA: regardless of the sweep design, 3/4" isnt going to be enough. I believe it was suggested I run at least 1.25 or 1.5" conduit for a single fiber pull.

In your case I would run Cat6a...not Cat6, but 6a. It can support full bandwidth up to 100m, where regular cat6 can only do it for like 35m. I would pull 2 pieces of 6a(you can use it for telco service). Use lots of pulling gel.

 

[ard]

swept 90s.

Original plan was two 6a direct bury, lots of gel. No cameras; no servers; just general internet usage. But given this thread, thought Id ask.

I cannot terminate fiber myself- so would need to have someone roll out here. But given the comments here, I began thinking even bare fiber would be a problem in 3/4... like one 6a plus the fiber...

(Scored some ubiquiti unifi gear during a decommission, so converting the home....)

 

[Slednut]

swept 90s.

Original plan was two 6a direct bury, lots of gel. No cameras; no servers; just general internet usage. But given this thread, thought Id ask.

I cannot terminate fiber myself- so would need to have someone roll out here. But given the comments here, I began thinking even bare fiber would be a problem in 3/4... like one 6a plus the fiber...

(Scored some ubiquiti unifi gear during a decommission, so converting the home....)

You can terminate the fiber yourself, if you're only doing a couple on each end the only tool you'd need is a Jonard cleaver. The rest you probably have around the shop. The cleaver is around $120, I've stripped the fiber back to where it's ready to clean and cleave with a pair of electricians snips. It just takes a little practice. Here's a video of a guy using the Jonard cleaver.

 

[rjacobs]

swept 90s.

Original plan was two 6a direct bury, lots of gel. No cameras; no servers; just general internet usage. But given this thread, thought Id ask.

I cannot terminate fiber myself- so would need to have someone roll out here. But given the comments here, I began thinking even bare fiber would be a problem in 3/4... like one 6a plus the fiber...

(Scored some ubiquiti unifi gear during a decommission, so converting the home....)

Yea pulling bare fiber would probably work. 2 fiber is about the size of Cat6a from what I have been told...but with all the recommendations to pull 4 fiber to have backup fibers, it would get sketchy in 3/4 IMO.

And I know nothing about un-terminated because I was specing a new run with conduit for this purpose so I was going big enough to pull with connectors.

And if your Ubiquiti gear has the SFP ports you are setup.

ETA: with that said, in your case, I would probably run two 6a runs because of your conduit limitations.

 

[Cryptic1911]

You can terminate the fiber yourself, if you're only doing a couple on each end the only tool you'd need is a Jonard cleaver. The rest you probably have around the shop. The cleaver is around $120, I've stripped the fiber back to where it's ready to clean and cleave with a pair of electricians snips. It just takes a little practice. Here's a video of a guy using the Jonard cleaver.

wtf I never knew you could do it this easily.. I'm buying one of those and running some fiber at my house. I already have some servers linked at 10g in my rack, but would be nice to run to my workstation

 

[Slednut]

wtf I never knew you could do it this easily.. I'm buying one of those and running some fiber at my house. I already have some servers linked at 10g in my rack, but would be nice to run to my workstation

Just make sure you get the right ends for the fiber your using. If your running it through your house I'd just buy fiber jumpers. If you want 10g get the blue MM jumpers.

 

[Cryptic1911]

I could just buy long premade cables, but would need to drill much larger holes and probably have a lot of slack. Having it more or less to length would be nice. What I've got already are lc to lc 50/125 om3 for the transceivers in my switch and servers

 

[Slednut]

With LC ends the holes wouldn't need to be very big. If you have duplex fiber jumpers you can zip the two fibers apart a ways and carefully pull the LCs through a hole one at a time. Companies like Platt Electric can order jumpers at any length in meters. For multi mode you can order LCUPC-LCUPC MMDX ?M. Extra length is no problem, you usually want at least a couple meters extra for future moves.

 

[pcmeiners]

Anyone who thinks they can run a long Ethernet between building better be living in an area absent of thunder storms. No amount of grounding/type of grounding or metal shielding is going to help if a lightning ground hit is close by.. The lightning voltage potential can overwhelm any ground cables, it can jump from a shielded conduit to your copper cable no problem; Faraday shielding does not work with a close ground lightning hit.

 

[ard]

Anyone who thinks they can run a long Ethernet between building better be living in an area absent of thunder storms. No amount of grounding/type of grounding or metal shielding is going to help if a lightning ground hit is close by.. The lightning voltage potential can overwhelm any ground cables, it can jump from a shielded conduit to your copper cable no problem; Faraday shielding does not work with a close ground lightning hit.

lol

who cares? I mean what did we do before there was fiber?

The pre-occupation on GJ with fiber as an absolute requirement for 'safety from lightning' is mind boggling.

So you lose a switch or router? maybe. In pre-fiber days, was this costing you thousands a year with lightning ground strikes frying your home network?

 

[pcmeiners]

If you read my post, and you did not, I am against copper cable but recommended WIFI.

"So you lose a switch or router? maybe. In pre-fiber days, was this costing you thousands a year with lightning ground strikes frying your home network"

I do not work on home networks but a number of my business client lost network switches and complete servers costing thousands.

 

[paranoid56]

i didnt see it listed or not, but if you have line of sight then i would just the nano beam and just beam it.

 

[cvairwerks]

Think OP already has things going, as you are posting to a tread that was abandoned 4 years ago.

If you’re going to hype your employer, then you need to talk to Ryan frst.

 

[PCustoms]

Think OP already has things going, as you are posting to a tread that was abandoned 4 years ago.

If you’re going to hype your employer, then you need to talk to Ryan frst.

Report the spam, don't reply

 

[NUTTSGT]

Old thread locked to prevent spammers again.

Any member, feel free to start a new thread on the subject with questions.