Question about adding 6' door to a shed

[Zeeman]

Hello,
I have a 10x16 shed and I want to put a 6' door in the end/10' wide part. This is a portable building, and if fairly level. The question is: When adding jack and king studs, should I frame them plumb or measure off of adjacent studs to install?

 

[545_days]

Assuming the doors are hinged on the sides, They will operate best if level.

 

[Michigan Mike]

I would make sure the building is level and plumb. Then I would measure for the king and jack studs. If you plumb the king and jack studs and then move and reset the building they will no longer be level and plumb.

 

[Daveyclimber]

Going through this right now. Converting part of a shed to a chicken brooder. Base your stud location off of the current framing. Don't bother with a level if the shed isn't level. My shed is out of square because of the ground. It's actually a loafing shed with a tack room.

 

[The Cobbler]

6' man doors or roll up/overhead door?
doors typically work better when plumb .
garage doors more so, the tracks need to be plumb or they won't operate smoothly or properly .

 

[Zeeman]

Thanks for the replies. These will be hinged doors. It is a portable building, but is not likely to be moved in my lifetime.

 

[mike93lx]

I'd install it all plumb. If the building is close, it will look fine and the door will operate better

 

[PCustoms]

Plumb, otherwise doors will likely have issues.

If a plumb door frame looks off with the rest of the shed, you should probably jack/level the shed as needed before adding doors.

 

[Zeeman]

Plumb it is I guess. It seems like this would be easier too. Thanks.

 

[Skiff Builder]

Plumb is good, but also make sure the top of the doors are level. You'll see that if it is not.
The bottom of the doors not as important to be level across- as long as they fit the opening.

 

[PCustoms]

Plumb is good, but also make sure the top of the doors are level. You'll see that if it is not.
The bottom of the doors not as important to be level across- as long as they fit the opening.

How do you have a plumb door that is not level across the top?

 

[mike93lx]

How do you have a plumb door that is not level across the top?

A racked frame

 

[Skiff Builder]

How do you have a plumb door that is not level across the top?

Seen plenty of shed door openings where jambs were plumb (vertical), but different heights due to many factors.

Parallelogram.

 

[The Cobbler]

How do you have a plumb door that is not level across the top?

easy, plumb is the vertical, level is the horizontal. door can be plumb but not level

 

[PCustoms]

easy, plumb is the vertical, level is the horizontal. door can be plumb but not level

I'm still not getting it....

Plumb and level are 90 degrees to each other. Assuming your door is square, a plumb door would be level...

If he meant 2 doors to each other, that is different.

 

[mike93lx]

I'm still not getting it....

Plumb and vertical are 90 degrees to each other. Assuming your door is square, a plumb door would be level...

If he meant 2 doors to each other, that is different.

The hinge size and striker side are plumb, but the bottoms of each and at different heights. So the door is plumb, the top and bottom of the frame are level, but the frame is not square.

In a parallelogram, the sides are all parallel, but the corners are not square

 

[The Cobbler]

plumb & vertical is the same thing , they are not 90° apart.

 

[The Cobbler]

that's why a plumb bob is called a plumb bob, it measures plumb, not level

 

[PCustoms]

plumb & vertical is the same thing , they are not 90° apart.

Typo, I fixed it.

 

[mike93lx]

Typo, I fixed it.

Plumb and level are 90 to each other, sure. But with a door, you have two pairs of edges.

 

[PCustoms]

I've been up for like 18hrs. Maybe after some sleep I'll get it.

If I install a door and plumb the side jamb, then level the head jamb, my frame is square.

If I have French doors and I do this, and my hinges are off, my doors may not be level to each other.

 

[The Cobbler]

Typo, I fixed it.

LOL
the jambs are plumb, and the opening is 6' wide.
but, the jambs are not level, one is 2" lower than the other side because the shed sank in that corner.
so you have plumb , but not level jambs.
and in the situation I mentioned, the 6' opening would have been pulled in a bit , so the original 6' opening would now be less

 

[PCustoms]

Yeah, idk. Ignore my comment. When I read it myself now I'm not sure what I was thinking. Sleep deprivation

 

[The Cobbler]

I've been up for like 18hrs. Maybe after some sleep I'll get it.

If I install a door and plumb the side jamb, then level the head jamb, my frame is square.

If I have French doors and I do this, and my hinges are off, my doors may not be level to each other.

ok, but you levelled the head . you could have installed the doors with plumb jambs & cut the tops of the doors to fit the out of level hread jamb because you didn't want to pull the trim on the head

 

[mike93lx]

Yeah, idk. Ignore my comment. When I read it myself now I'm not sure what I was thinking. Sleep deprivation

No. We need to talk about this more. You aren't getting off the hook that easily

 

[PCustoms]

How do you have a plumb door that is not level across the top?

If you didn't bother to level the top jamb *******...

No. We need to talk about this more. You aren't getting off the hook that easily

Happy now?

 

[mike93lx]

If you didn't bother to level the top jamb *******...


Happy now?

Just getting started, bud

 

[larry_g]

The hinge size and striker side are plumb, but the bottoms of each and at different heights. So the door is plumb, the top and bottom of the frame are level, but the frame is not square.

In a parallelogram, the sides are all parallel, but the corners are not square

I'd like to see you draw that. If the sides are plumb and the top and bottom are level you have to have a rectangle. As pcustoms said; Plumb and level are 90 degrees to each other.

A parallelogram does not have two plumb sides and two level sides and as you say the corners are not square.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mike93lx]

I'd like to see you draw that. If the sides are plumb and the top and bottom are level you have to have a rectangle. As pcustoms said; Plumb and level are 90 degrees to each other.

A parallelogram does not have two plumb sides and two level sides and as you say the corners are not square.

lg
no neat sig line

Can we delete this thread? Lol

 

[larry_g]

Can we delete this thread? Lol

But you just said, "Just getting started, bud"

I agree this has wandered into confusion.

My suggestion to the OP is to get your floor level across the opening, get the sides plumb even if you have to ratchet strap the building upright and brace it there. Now start your modifications for the door and you can either measure from the now plumb studs or install the door frame plumb, either will give the same results. If the top of the frame is not level and parallel to the floor trim the door to fit.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[mike93lx]

But you just said, "Just getting started, bud"

Yeah, but...

 

[PCustoms]

I'd like to see you draw that. If the sides are plumb and the top and bottom are level you have to have a rectangle. As pcustoms said; Plumb and level are 90 degrees to each other.

A parallelogram does not have two plumb sides and two level sides and as you say the corners are not square.

lg
no neat sig line

Yeah that one hurt my head.

Apologies for the derail I caused.....

Anyone have a link to the shed of doom?

 

[Zeeman]

Hmmm, things got plumb out of control in this thread since I posted last. Ha. Here is the situation as it stands now. I have made the two king studs and the two jack studs plumb. The header I made and installed is level, but not parallel to the floor. Before anyone gets all worried about the header and floor not being parallel, I'll let you know that the LP siding on the door bottom will rest against the rim joist/end joist. There will be a ramp leading up to the doors and I can just cut the bottom of the LP siding by marking a level line on the bottom of the doors.

If I have confused anyone, please let me know. Also let me know if any of my plan sounds goofy.

I have build a lot of things over the years, but no doors. I'm having a hard time figuring out how much to subtract from the jack stud opening width to get a measurement for my door width. The doors on the shed now are tight fitting and line up very well. Professionals, or semi-professionals built them though. Any help would be appreciated.

 

[The Cobbler]

I leave 2" larger on rough opening for door widths .

 

[mike93lx]

Hmmm, things got plumb out of control in this thread since I posted last. Ha. Here is the situation as it stands now. I have made the two king studs and the two jack studs plumb. The header I made and installed is level, but not parallel to the floor. Before anyone gets all worried about the header and floor not being parallel, I'll let you know that the LP siding on the door bottom will rest against the rim joist/end joist. There will be a ramp leading up to the doors and I can just cut the bottom of the LP siding by marking a level line on the bottom of the doors.

If I have confused anyone, please let me know. Also let me know if any of my plan sounds goofy.

I have build a lot of things over the years, but no doors. I'm having a hard time figuring out how much to subtract from the jack stud opening width to get a measurement for my door width. The doors on the shed now are tight fitting and line up very well. Professionals, or semi-professionals built them though. Any help would be appreciated.

Sounds like you are in pretty good shape. Site building the doors, right? No separate frame? Something like a 1/4 all around should be plenty of room for movement and could be pretty easily taken up with seals if desired. If you like the current door, I'd mimic that

If you are building a frame, then 2", as said above

 

[Zeeman]

Hey mike93lx. What is sire? Haven't heard that term. Anyway, I plan to build two 3'-ish doors with the LP overlapping in the middle as a 'stop' if you will. I'm a little gun shy because I built a door and tried to install it before plumbing the studs and leveling the header. I failed to copy the original doors well enough I guess. Ruined a $48 sheet of LP plus some 4" LP trim. Ouch!

 

[The Cobbler]

I think he meant "Site building" the doors

 

[Zeeman]

I leave 2" larger on rough opening for door widths .

2" seems like a lot, but you probably know much more than I do if you've built more than one shed door. When you use an inch on each side, do you let the trim hang over the side/edge of the siding to fill the gaps? Thanks.

 

[Zeeman]

I think he meant "Site building" the doors

Ahh. I did not think of that. Yes, they are being site built. The doors that came on the shed have a 2x4 frame with the 2x4s laying on the flat/3.5" side.

 

[The Cobbler]

re the 2" , that's when using a jamb set (which is 5/8 to 3/4 thick)
it allows shimming .
if you're doing the doors right on tot he studs, probably a 1/4" per side would be good