Question about splicing two wires using a **** connector

[garagedoorscaresme]

Hello everyone

I am looking to splice two wires using a **** connectors (which will be covered by a heat-shrinking tube as recommended). I am completely new at this so i watched some youtube videos and bought the tools already to start practicing.

Anyway, I wanted to ask for confirmation on two things and please refer to below pic:
1. When crimping a wire and a **** connector, should only the stripped wire part be inside the the metal barrel (ie. Green wire in the pic) or should a bit of insulated part be inside it too (Red wire in the pic)? If it's latter, should I try to get the insulated part also crimped?
2. My **** connector has a separate in the middle of it. Could you please confirm two wires (one from each side) don't have to be touching each other or the separator?

I believe the answers are keeping the insulated part wires inside the metal barrel and that two wires don't have to be touching the separator or each other. Any confirmations would be great lol.




Thank you

 

[ericm]

All the crimp connectors I have used have the crimp on the wire only. The insulation is stripped back so there's only wire in the metal barrel part. If the crimps are solid the wires don't need to touch. Having a wall between the two sides means you can jam each side in as far as it will go and not worry about going too far with the first wire and not leaving enough space for the second wire.

 

[PCustoms]

Insulation should NOT enter the barrel (section where it is crimped)

Stripped wire length should allow for full depth of wire with a small gap (if any!) at the edge of the barrel.

What voltage, and where will this be used?

 

[mikedodge]

If you put the insulated wire in the metal part you're loosing the metal on metal contact. The wires don't have to touch and usually can't because they're separated. That's what the metal part is for.
What are you using this on?

 

[Codyboy]

If you put the insulated wire in the metal part you're loosing the metal on metal contact. The wires don't have to touch and usually can't because they're separated. That's what the metal part is for.
What are you using this on?

Id like to also know what you're splicing

What crimper do you have?

If you're having to practice using a **** splice (sta-kon) you may need to disclose some more info.

 

[alfredeneuman]

If it's in a dry environment and the wire you're splicing is #10 or smaller, insulated crimps are the easy way out. (T&B 2RC10 for #10 and 12, 2RB14 for 14 and 16, 2RA18 for #18 and 20)

 

[garagedoorscaresme]

Thanks everyone!

The voltage is 12V and it's actually for my parent's car. I watched a How-To video on youtube but wasn't getting any responses for weeks so I decided to come here out of desperation, and i hope that's ok.

As for tools I bought for this job, followings are the ones. I believe my two wires looks to be AWG 16:

1. Crimping tool for insulated eletrical connectors AWG 22 - 10 (I will be using the Red mark)


2. **** connectors that has a metal barrel with a separator in its middle (I will be using the Red **** connector)


3. Wire stripper (I think i can use the crimping section in this wire stripper but decided to buy a #1 crimper as recommended)

 

[PCustoms]

What wire on your parents car?


Those cheap terminals **** IMHO. The plastic is stuff and breaks down.

Thanks everyone!

The voltage is 12V and it's actually for my parent's car. I watched a How-To video on youtube but wasn't getting any responses for weeks so I decided to come here out of desperation, and i hope that's ok.

As for tools I bought for this job, followings are the ones. I believe my two wires looks to be AWG 16:

1. Crimping tool for insulated eletrical connectors AWG 22 - 10 (I will be using the Red mark)


2. **** connectors that has a metal barrel with a separator in its middle (I will be using the Red **** connector)


3. Wire stripper (I think i can use the crimping section in this wire stripper but decided to buy a #1 crimper as recommended)

 

[4xdog]

Those bits and pieces should work fine on a 12V **** splice.

But what wire, and especially what circuit, are you splicing? Good crimps will be fine on almost any 12V circuit, but when I've removed previous-owner car alarms on two Tacomas now, I've soldered the main ignition circuit wire when I've rejoined the ends cut for the alarm.

A **** splice probably woulda been fine -- I've done LOTS of them -- but for a critical circuit that doesn't see any strain behind the intrument panel, I feel better with a soldered connection.

 

[whateg01]

What wire on your parents car?


Those cheap terminals **** IMHO. The plastic is stuff and breaks down.

The metal barrel tends to be thinner too.

 

[Codyboy]

I've used those ratchet crimpers. Not fond of a flattened out connector.
I prefer these for insulated and non insulated connectors. Seems to give a better crimp than just mashing it flat.

 

[whateg01]

Everything I've ever read and been taught was don't use crimpers that poke a hole in the insulation to crimp. Insulated connectors are supposed to be crimped flat-ish. The crimpers with the prong are meant for bare terminals.

 

[Bert_]

I've used those ratchet crimpers. Not fond of a flattened out connector.
I prefer these for insulated and non insulated connectors. Seems to give a better crimp than just mashing it flat.

I use them too. A flat crimp just isn't good. Who cares if it pokes a hole in the insulation? These kind of crimps aren't sealed anyway.

 

[garagedoorscaresme]

Hello,

So it will be for this part called 'high-pressure fuel pump adapter' in my parents' old car. As this below video explains, older models apparently require cutting out the existing old adapter then splicing with a new one.

I planned to use that **** connector for crimping (splicing?) wires then also using a separate heat-shrinking tubes or electrical tapes over it to shield from waters.

 

[garagedoorscaresme]

I've used those ratchet crimpers. Not fond of a flattened out connector.
I prefer these for insulated and non insulated connectors. Seems to give a better crimp than just mashing it flat.

Thanks Cody,

I think this section in the wire stripper tool i bought is for non-insulated connectors so i will try that out later.

 

[garagedoorscaresme]

What wire on your parents car?


Those cheap terminals **** IMHO. The plastic is stuff and breaks down.

Hi PCustoms,

Do you have a suggestion on which brand have good terminals/connectors by any chance? I found those on Amazon and they all have a good review and look the same.

I thought about using a heat-shrinking **** connector but i worry that may be damaged over time because the wires i will be splicing are right near the engine.

 

[PCustoms]

Hi PCustoms,

Do you have a suggestion on which brand have good terminals/connectors by any chance? I found those on Amazon and they all have a good review and look the same.

Tyco

What car? Why are you having to crimp in a new high pressure fuel pump adapter?

And lastly, do your parents know what you're doing?

 

[kbuhagiar]

Tyco

What car? Why are you having to crimp in a new high pressure fuel pump adapter?

And lastly, do your parents know what you're doing?

I had the same question and then I skimmed through the video.
They need a new fuel pump, and apparently the only replacement fuel pump available is a later version that is not plug-n-play and requires a slight wiring modification.

 

[niget2002]

They sell waterproof connectors that will shrink with heat after crimping. I'd get those instead of trying to use heatshrink over cheaper connectors.

 

[Codyboy]

Everything I've ever read and been taught was don't use crimpers that poke a hole in the insulation to crimp. Insulated connectors are supposed to be crimped flat-ish. The crimpers with the prong are meant for bare terminals.

Ok. The flat ones don't make as good of a connection.
**** connectors are made for low voltage and I've never had an issue with a crimper that damaged the outer insulation on the connector.

If its an outdoors connection I either tape it or shrink sleeve it.
Non issue in my opinion.

 

[kbeefy]

Hello,

So it will be for this part called 'high-pressure fuel pump adapter' in my parents' old car. As this below video explains, older models apparently require cutting out the existing old adapter then splicing with a new one.

I planned to use that **** connector for crimping (splicing?) wires then also using a separate heat-shrinking tubes or electrical tapes over it to shield from waters.

If your gonna put heat shrink on the connections anyways (I would) then ditch the insulated crimp connectors and use non-insulated ones. If you already have the plastic insulated ones, it's pretty easy to cut the pvc insulation off of them and just use the barrel from inside of it.

Get some heat shrink with adhesive in it, it's often advertised as waterproof.

Alternatively, you can get the 'crimp and shrink' style **** connectors. They work fine but just don't look quite as clean.

As far as the crimp, all good info above. Insulation stops at the barrel.

 

[Sumboodie]

If I had a nickle for every connection I've made, I'd be a rich guy!

I use bare connections and a good adhesive lined shrink tube.

 

[Bert_]

If you want to increase your chance of failure, buy a bunch of junk from Amazon...

 

[kaymccampbell]

I know we're all excited about crimping connectors, but has anyone mentioned the self soldering and shrinking **** connectors?

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-H...therproof/dp/B08F46WKCZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

 

[PCustoms]

I know we're all excited about crimping connectors, but has anyone mentioned the self soldering and shrinking **** connectors?

https://www.amazon.com/Connectors-H...therproof/dp/B08F46WKCZ/?tag=atomicindus08-20

Sorry, those are a gimmick IMHO.

Either properly crimp it or properly solder it.

 

[75gmck25]

Since you mentioned engine heat, you might want to see if you can find some of the heat-resistant fabric protective sleeves GM used to use on wiring. I have a sleeve on the wiring for the temp sensor on my SBC, since the wire has to go down between the exhaust manifold ports and connect to the temp sensor.

This is one example, but automotive versions might even be on the shelf at the parts store.

High Temperature Fiberglass Sleeving | Braided Fiberglass Wire Sleeves | High Temp Wire Loom

High temperature braided sleeving is designed to protect your hoses and cables from extreme temperature exposure. Eliminate catastrophic failures.

www.cabletiesandmore.com

 

[LeonardY]

I know we're all excited about crimping connectors, but has anyone mentioned the self soldering and shrinking **** connectors?

Not those in particular. I used ones from Mcmaster in the parks. They held up well.

McMaster-Carr

McMaster-Carr is the complete source for your plant with over 595,000 products. 98% of products ordered ship from stock and deliver same or next day.

www.mcmaster.com

 

[kaymccampbell]

Sorry, those are a gimmick IMHO.

Either properly crimp it or properly solder it.

Not too gimmicky. I just checked back, and I used those to do the rectifier harness on the Burgman, 5 years and 15K miles ago, when I chopped it. And they're right to the left of the rear wheel, and get plenty of road splash. When I cleaned the the Burg for the start of riding season, other than a coat of road crud, they looked like new.

 

[JeepYJ]

If you want to increase your chance of failure, buy a bunch of junk from Amazon...

There are quality connectors and tools
on Amazon too. Give the OP some suggestions on better/best products to use.

 

[Bert_]

There are quality connectors and tools
on Amazon too. Give the OP some suggestions on better/best products to use.

I buy ideal or ilsco for cheap crimp connectors. Those are known brands. You can get a decent crimper, Ideal, Klein and Channel lock all sell the same one pictured earlier. The crimper is like $35 so still low cost.

 

[Snapped-off]

This should be interesting. OP, follow up with results please.

 

[nadogail]

T&B ( Thomas and Betts) is a very reliable brand of crimp connectors.

 

[garagedoorscaresme]

Thanks everyone.

Just out of curiosity, is 'Ever Start' a good brand? I saw it at Walmart store yesterday and I thought about buying them. They had both regular connectors and also heat-shrinking ones.

Anyway, I will keep you all updated. I may do it this weekend if i feel ready and the car part arrives. If not, definitely next week.

 

[mike93lx]

Thanks everyone.

Just out of curiosity, is 'Ever Start' a good brand? I saw it at Walmart store yesterday and I thought about buying them. They had both regular connectors and also heat-shrinking ones.

Anyway, I will keep you all updated. I may do it this weekend if i feel ready and the car part arrives. If not, definitely next week.

Everstart is a brand that doesn't make anything.

For connectors, I like 3m, but they can be hard to find in small quantities

 

[Sumboodie]

T&B ( Thomas and Betts) is a very reliable brand of crimp connectors.

And inventor of zip ties. All I buy anymore.

 

[garagedoorscaresme]

Hi everyone,

I succeeded . Took me awhile on this one because we found other issues with the car which I also took care of

Thanks for all your insights!