Question for the literal tool polishers

[rslaback]

Found an interesting square/center finder in some of my dad's old tools. I gave it a quick polycarbonate bead blast to get the rust layers but I'd like to get it back to being able to read the ruler scale.

What's my best next step? Electrolysis? Sandblasting? Scotchbright?

 

[Shiftless]

Is that deep rust pitting we are looking at?

 

[rslaback]

Is that deep rust pitting we are looking at?

It's smooth to the touch. I think it is mostly staining.

 

[Jswain]

Bead blasting & then a wire wheel on a bench grinder leaves a pretty nice surface for stuff like that IMO

 

[RTM]

Anything too abrasive will reduce the depth of the markings, so be gentle. I would have started with knocking off the loose rust, then gone to electrolysis. Cleaning up after the e zap is a burgundy scotchbrite. Trying to remark the lines is always a challenge for me, trying to find a black that will stay in the grooves is the trick. Nothing has worked well so far. I don’t think you can bring them up without additional marking.

I have the 3M radial bristle brush, that I prefer over wire wheels for trying to get a polish.

 

[rslaback]

I do also have some evaporust if that would be better.

 

[Shiftless]

Once the steel is smooth, I have used black magic markers with some success. Fill in the marks and then remove the excess blackening with fine sandpaper like 600 grit. If there are pock marks from rust pitting don’t do that.

 

[RTM]

I do also have some evaporust if that would be better.

The Evaporust would leave a dull gray finish requiring scrubbing under warm water with Scotchbrite also. The darkness in the grooves might benefit from less diligent scrubbing.

 

[Shiftless]

Don’t use Evaporust. That will stain the whole thing black causing more work. I would try various grades of sandpaper or even better… Emery cloth.

 

[ZRX61]

Bead blasting & then a wire wheel on a bench grinder leaves a pretty nice surface for stuff like that IMO

Yup, done that to several.

 

[johninct]

steel wool ??

 

[KSJeff]

I've used black nail polish to some success with detailed markings. I use a small brush and try to keep the paint as precise as I can. Don't use the brush that comes with the polish. I use orange on some of my gun sights and it's pretty resiliant to oil/cleaning agents.

 

[dnschmidt]

Do whatever to get the rust off but for highlighting the markings the best solution I've found is signpainter's paint or what we in autobody call pinstriping paint. One Shot is the brand that I use. Just smear it on with a rag, brush or whatever and wipe off the stuff that stays on top of the recesses. It's a slow dry oil based paint so let it dry and you're good to go.

 

[RTM]

Do whatever to get the rust off but for highlighting the markings the best solution I've found is signpainter's paint or what we in autobody call pinstriping paint. One Shot is the brand that I use. Just smear it on with a rag, brush or whatever and wipe off the stuff that stays on top of the recesses. It's a slow dry oil based paint so let it dry and you're good to go.

What is your wait time between smear and wipe? I just tried that over the past summer, and I got no adherence in the grooves.

Been sitting on that can for a few years, finally got the time to try it.

 

[dnschmidt]

What is your wait time between smear and wipe? I just tried that over the past summer, and I got no adherence in the grooves.

Been sitting on that can for a few years, finally got the time to try it.

I find it doesn't matter so the sooner the better. What does matter is what you use to wipe with. I use a piece of an old tee shirt on a hard block. Well, actually a piece of MDF, with the idea being not to have any fibers get into the groves I'm trying to fill. A HINT: don't use a microfiber towel or it will remove all of the paint from the groves as the little fibers get into the groves.

 

[shafferds]

I'd go low pressure fine glass bead followed by very fine wire wheel.

 

[4x4Pete]

Clean however you can. Filling in the marking can be done with Testor's model paint. Wipe off immediately with one of those triangular sponges that women use for make up. This is a motorcycle control we restored.

 

[tak1313]

I would use a maroon (maybe green) 3m pad and some light oil.

 

[larry_g]

Cleaning precision tools like that I use Hoppes #9 gun cleaner. For rules like that I use some 1000-1200 grit abrasive on a stiff backing using the Hoppes as a lube. With gentle working a lot of times I can save the black in the markings and come up with a nice satin finish in the steel.

lg
no neat sig line

 

[CGarage]

Cleaning precision tools like that I use Hoppes #9 gun cleaner. For rules like that I use some 1000-1200 grit abrasive on a stiff backing using the Hoppes as a lube. With gentle working a lot of times I can save the black in the markings and come up with a nice satin finish in the steel.

lg
no neat sig line

Abrasive as in sand paper?

 

[larry_g]

Abrasive as in sand paper?

Correct, wet or dry paper. Go to an industrial or automotive paint store to get it.

 

[CGarage]

Correct, wet or dry paper. Go to an industrial or automotive paint store to get it.

I have a file of 3M. Are they still the best?

 

[budget76]

I've coated them in a spray paint, then taken a random orbital or sanding pad to sand off everything. cleans it up fairly well & leaves the recesses easier to see

its an option

 

[larry_g]

I have a file of 3M. Are they still the best?

I can't say if they are the best, but will get the job done if you have the fine grit.

lg

 

[Maui]

I'd wire wheel it with a relative gentle wire wheel. Should clean it up quickly without affecting the markings at all.

 

[JradM]

Once the steel is smooth, I have used black magic markers with some success. Fill in the marks and then remove the excess blackening with fine sandpaper like 600 grit. If there are pock marks from rust pitting don’t do that.

I was also thinking sanding will be necessary. How else are you going to achieve a shiny flat top surface again? Use a stiff backer on your paper so you don't dig in. Cross your fingers that you don't have to sand so deep the markings disappear. It looks to me like you might be ok.

You could try to make the markings a bit deeper in advance - maybe with a carbide scriber. There are other ways to do it, but they might end up requiring an unreasonable amount of work. A couple back-and-forth scrapes inside each line is already going to take a minute.



A low-power engraver with a precision tip might work too, but you don't want something that works too fast. You could use something as a straight-line guide too - it might otherwise be too easy to jump out of the line.



Last idea: Rust Check "Rust Wash" might be more appropriate than Evaporust in this situation. Rust Wash leaves a shiny metal surface when it's done, not dull grey like Evaporust. It actually removes the rust, rather than converting it to a stable state.

 

[Shiftless]

Scraping with an ice pic or dental tool before painting black would also remove any crud that has built up in those little grooves.

 

[BDT/NWMN]

Clean however you can. Filling in the marking can be done with Testor's model paint. Wipe off immediately with one of those triangular sponges that women use for make up. This is a motorcycle control we restored.

This turned out very nice

 

[Renegade1LI]

Polishing can become very addictive, always start with least destructive.

 

[rslaback]

Polishing can become very addictive, always start with least destructive.

I'm not worried about it becoming a hobby. I don't have that kind of patience.

 

[39 LaSalle]

A trick I learned from my dad was to rub old markings like that on old squares and such with soapstone and wipe off the excess. Yes, it will eventually need to be reapplied, but it's minimal effort and has always worked pretty good for me.

 

[rslaback]

I was also thinking sanding will be necessary. How else are you going to achieve a shiny flat top surface again? Use a stiff backer on your paper so you don't dig in. Cross your fingers that you don't have to sand so deep the markings disappear. It looks to me like you might be ok.

You could try to make the markings a bit deeper in advance - maybe with a carbide scriber. There are other ways to do it, but they might end up requiring an unreasonable amount of work. A couple back-and-forth scrapes inside each line is already going to take a minute.



A low-power engraver with a precision tip might work too, but you don't want something that works too fast. You could use something as a straight-line guide too - it might otherwise be too easy to jump out of the line.



Last idea: Rust Check "Rust Wash" might be more appropriate than Evaporust in this situation. Rust Wash leaves a shiny metal surface when it's done, not dull grey like Evaporust. It actually removes the rust, rather than converting it to a stable state.

That Rust Wash looks like a winner but I can't seem to find it in the states. Is there such a thing as a similar product in the US?

 

[Walkers]

I agree with block wet sanding. The dark color with stay in the grooves. Oil afterward.

 

[seber]

Wet sanding or even dry sanding with appropriate grit will bring it back to the original look. Then add carnauba wax to prevent a recurrence.