Questions about cleaning older tools

[DwightS]

I recently inherited tools from my father's barn. He passed away 19 years ago and I just left everything until my mother's passing and now I'm going through the 50 years of accumulation.

Please forgive me as I'm sure it's been asked a million times... Within the accumulation of tools are a lot of hand tools in various conditions. Some look like they just came out of the package and some look like they should be trashed. My question is, how do I clean these hand tools to see exactly what I have? I have some Tub-o-Towels, All Purpose Cleaner and some degreasers. So I figured I'd start there. But once the grime is cleaned off, what about the sockets or wrenches with some rust? Do I just dunk them in Evapo-Rust? Will that hurt the chrome finish?

It's interesting to see the mix & match of tools my father had. He was a "shade tree" mechanic and homeowner who worked in the textile mills in NC from the 1950s until his forced retirement in 1990 due to cancer. The tool boxes contain anything from K-Mart Auto Center (Japan) socket sets to older Craftsman (none newer than 1990), Snap-on, Blackhawk, Mustang, Proto, S&K, Dunlap. Thorsen and a few unlabeled. It is a true treasure hunt!

Thanks for the advice!

 

[four.cycle]

It depends upon whether your intention is to use them or keep them as "collector items".
If it's the latter, less is more: restrain yourself and endeavor not to do any damage or remove any patina that may have developed over the years.

I will defer to other members regarding the use of "Evaporust" or other products - I've never used anything like that. I limit "cleaning" to a little Marvel Mystery Oil or maybe a bit of paint thinner, a soft cloth, and sometimes a bit of 0000 steel wool.

If it's cadmium plated (like low-end "Dunlap" hex drive sockets) do nothing. The cadmium is toxic. At most just wipe it with a soft cloth and a bit of oil.

For reasons which defy all logical explanations, Japan-made "K-Mart" stuff (at least complete sets) commands "collector" prices on Ebay. Go figure.

Any Indestro or Thorsen stuff you run into is most likely worthless, so it would be best to pack it up and ship it to me so I can dispose of it properly.

 

[seber]

Evaporust works fine and will not hurt chrome or nickel but washing vinegar works just as well and is way cheaper. It might take two days and will leave the surface darkened. You can wash and oil or remove the black with any nonwoven abrasive or steel wool.

 

[M6erfan]

If you just want to clean them up, good old kerosene works really well and wont darken the surface or change the metal in anyway. It's pretty economical and you can get in bulk (fill a 5ga fuel can) or you can get it by the gallon at Home Depot, etc. Sounds like with that many tools buying it in bulk would be a good idea. Just fill some sort of container or large tub, let them soak, and then go at them with a stiff brush.

Oh, and we like pics here

 

[JimNC]

I would start with sorting first, giving stuff a quick wipe with a rag damp with mineral spirits or WD-40.

Once you know what you’ve got you can ask more specific questions.

BTW, hate the WD brand degreaser.

 

[unslow1]

I had a bunch to do. White vinegar did a good job. The ones that still had a decent finish I wiped with an oily rag. The ones that didn't I used a wire wheel and a gray metallic spray paint. They turned out very well. They still look great 6 years later. That reminds me I need to re-oil my MAC impact sockets.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Anyone saying vinegar doesn't affect chrome is in denial of chemistry. it does hit rust harder than it hits chrome.
Is there a parts washer in the pile? if so load everything through there first 20 lb at a time.
Degrease before soaking in evaporust, vinegar, molasses, electrolysis or whatever.
Proper strategy is going to depend of the volume of stuff you have, and the amount of time you'd like to spend. 50 years for some people is a socket set and 3 pliers, others will be well over 500lb. I like evaporust and electrolysis because you load up and walk away, and I'm seldom in a rush to use anything I'm doing that to.
I much prefer a stainless tooth brush and oil to wire wheel.

 

[DwightS]

Thank for all the replies. To say I’m a little overwhelmed would be an understatement. I’m just going to take have to take it one step at a time.




The Craftsman stuff


Miscellaneous wrenches


Mustang Brand


Ford brake wrenches


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[M6erfan]

ooooooo, do I see a couple Wright "tootsie roll" ratchets there?

Nothing looks to bad, I've seen much worse.

 

[unslow1]

DwightS I know how you feel. I have silly amounts of stuff here I haven't even gone through.

 

[930dreamer]

Other then a little oil in the ratchets, I'd just wipe everything with a clean rag.

 

[M6erfan]

If the ratchet mechanisms are dry/stiff, put some ATF in a container and submerse the ratchet heads in it. Will smooth them right out.

 

[DwightS]

ooooooo, do I see a couple Wright "tootsie roll" ratchets there?

Nothing looks to bad, I've seen much worse.

There’s a Wright 3/8 and a Oxwall Japan 1/4.





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[DwightS]

DwightS I know how you feel. I have silly amounts of stuff here I haven't even gone through.

To paraphrase Sheriff Brody from Jaws: “You’re gonna need a bigger toolbox.”


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[unslow1]

In my case I now have 6 toolboxes. My Grandparents had 3 houses and four garages.

Check out this thread.


https://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=162184

 

[DwightS]

If the ratchet mechanisms are dry/stiff, put some ATF in a container and submerse the ratchet heads in it. Will smooth them right out.

Thanks. I have had a couple that were stiff or frozen. I opened up one that has a C-clip and sprayed some PB Blaster in it and everything broke free. The other one that I couldn’t open, I sprayed PB Blaster at the cracks and let it sit overnight. It broke free too. I followed up with some 30-weight and they are working smoothly.


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[unslow1]

I've also used the ATF for a couple that were totally frozen.

 

[M6erfan]

I've also used the ATF for a couple that were totally frozen.

Works great! My BIL found an old rusty, made in Japan, round head ratchet outside and it was totally frozen. I mean locked up tight. I couldn't see a good way to disassemble it, there was so much rust. So I poured some ATF in a jar, dunked the head in, and 20 min later it was ratcheting just fine.

 

[Capt. Spaulding]

I know I’m going to sound like a jackass but what exactly is ATF? Sounds like I need some.

 

[M6erfan]

I know I’m going to sound like a jackass but what exactly is ATF? Sounds like I need some.

No worries...

Automatic Trasmission Fluid

 

[Gurp]

Wow!

 

[JiminAZ]

I'd start with mineral spirits or kroil. Let it soak a bit on the grungier stuff then hit it with a toothbrush or bronze brush.

 

[Wamsutta]

I find it interesting that mosts guys think of chemicals when it comes to rust removal. My first thoughts are always what I kind of abrasives I'm going to use. Maybe it's the instant gratification that abrasives provide.

 

[unslow1]

I find it interesting that mosts guys think of chemicals when it comes to rust removal. My first thoughts are always what I kind of abrasives I'm going to use. Maybe it's the instant gratification that abrasives provide.

It depends what I'm cleaning. A lot of stuff goes straight to the wire wheel or grinder. Heavy rust on tools goes to the wire wheel. I'd like to save the finish on tools if possible.

 

[four.cycle]

wire wheel = heresy in the collector market.

just..... don't.

 

[Capt. Spaulding]

Thank you!

 

[DwightS]

It depends what I'm cleaning. A lot of stuff goes straight to the wire wheel or grinder. Heavy rust on tools goes to the wire wheel. I'd like to save the finish on tools if possible.

Coming from the auto detailing hobby, the mindset is use the minimum it takes to achieve the maximum results. Of course the wire wheel is minimal effort and maximum results, so I guess that doesn’t translate like it should.... I’m not a tool collector, at least not yet. But I don’t want to do more damage to anything than I have to. If the tool is rusted, I don’t mind dropping it into a can of Evapo-Rust to stop the progression and stabilize it. I am already having a couple of regrets; I tossed an older Craftsman toolbox that the bottom was rusted through and I just noticed the locking hasp on the Craftsman toolbox in the picture is gone so I could have possibly used the hasp on it. But, I really don’t want to leave my family in the same predicament my mom and dad left me with, an overwhelming amount of accumulation that I have to deal with. Sadly, there’s still more tools to bring home.


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[MrDeerHunter]

I have been very pleased with oxalic acid (bar keepers friend). It cleans chrome very well.

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[Captain Spaulding]

I've had some amazing results from a steam cleaner (similar to a Bissel Steam Shot) an old toothbrush and a rag followed by a wipe or dunk in WD40. Cleans all the engraving and nooks and crannies.

 

[seber]

Anyone saying vinegar doesn't affect chrome is in denial of chemistry. it does hit rust harder than it hits chrome.
Is there a parts washer in the pile? if so load everything through there first 20 lb at a time.
Degrease before soaking in evaporust, vinegar, molasses, electrolysis or whatever.
Proper strategy is going to depend of the volume of stuff you have, and the amount of time you'd like to spend. 50 years for some people is a socket set and 3 pliers, others will be well over 500lb. I like evaporust and electrolysis because you load up and walk away, and I'm seldom in a rush to use anything I'm doing that to.
I much prefer a stainless tooth brush and oil to wire wheel.

Acetic acid has no effect on nickel or chrome. Check this site. http://lanthanumkchemistry.over-blog.com/article-the-dissolving-of-nickel-101259615.html

 

[IdahoMan]

wire wheel = heresy in the collector market.

just..... don't.

Why?

And BTW, I have wanted to see a professional Metrology study/experiment done on rust-removal/restoration.

Chemicals and their effect on other materials.
Abrasive grades.
Wire-wheels.
Blasting/tumbling.
Scraping.
Grinding.
Lapping.

How each of the above work and information on how they should be applied/used, how much rust/material they remove (thou(.001) or tenths(.0001)), etc..

Do such a study on restoration of precision machines (Micrometers, Calipers, Milling Machines, Optical Comparators) and you'll be set for any restoration project.

 

[Ole Slewfoot]

Why?

And BTW, I have wanted to see a professional Metrology study/experiment done on rust-removal/restoration.

Chemicals and their effect on other materials.
Abrasive grades.
Wire-wheels.
Blasting/tumbling.
Scraping.
Grinding.
Lapping.

How each of the above work and information on how they should be applied/used, how much rust/material they remove (thou(.001) or tenths(.0001)), etc..

Do such a study on restoration of precision machines (Micrometers, Calipers, Milling Machines, Optical Comparators) and you'll be set for any restoration project.

LOL, you will get a Nobel prize if you can just get rust to form in a truly uniform layer.

 

[countryroad82]

From the pics you posted I myself would just use some WD-40 (or whatever strikes your fancy) and a few good rags. Most of that stuff will clean up rather nicely. For stuff that has a good coat of rust, a soak in vinegar will loosen it up enough to wipe it down. For the record though I'm one who uses my tools and don't really get into the whole collectebility of them.

 

[GrayFlattop]

As I have learned from Garage Journal, there are many paths to your destination.

Evaporust has its place, but before you go that route, just try cleaning them up first.

I'd try something like LPS1 and a clean rag.

If you don't mind spending a little money, but yourself an ultrasonic cleaner - one that is heated. You can get them on amazon and ebay. Yeah, they are made in China, but for the value - tough to beat. 10L or 15L is a good starting point that wont break the bank. This one is where I'd start: https://www.amazon.com/Tek-Motion-Stainless-Ultrasonic-Jewelry/dp/B01HBDUM74

it has a 10% off coupon today!

I use a 50/50 mix or Simple Green and water and plonk the tools in there for about 20 minutes. Dry them off and if you like the way they look, spritz them with LPS1 or similar to displace the moisture and let 'em sit for a day - you can then wipe off the excess oil.

If you have a ratchet, I would not go this way unless disassembled. I'd hate to get water inside a good rat.

If you have a lot of rust, I'd go with evaporust, but it will turn the exposed steel dark if you simply leave the metal in overnight or more than a few hours. No effect on plating at all. If you drain the simple green from your ultrasonic cleaner fill it with evaporust. Heated evaporust in an ultrasonic cleaner is AMAZING - set the timer for 15 minutes and evaluate.

Advance auto parts sells evaporust and if you order online to pick-up they have a 20% or 25% off coupon. You can continue to use and re-use the evaporust for quite some time. Keep the gallon jugs to poutr the used evaporust back into - and for when you want to go back to using simple green.

Like a lot of folks here, I enjoy finding an old tool at a garage sale or on ebay if the price is right. It is amazing how you can transform a rusty chunk with very little effort.

Evaporust works GREAT on cast iron!

I would never really resort to mechanical means - it ruins the patina and with cad plated tools, introduces risk.

 

[DonglordActual]

Some tools are going to need mild wire brushing or the use of a scotchbrite pad to remove any remaining rust. I've been reclaimed a lot of tools doing that along with electrolysis.

Those aren't of any value for collectors anymore but they get a second life doing what they were designed for. Just check tolerances with a caliper and you're good to go.