Quick Mohawk lift identification needed please

[hellspcangel911]

I’m looking at buying a lift as the mother one fell through. Can anyone tell me what model/rating this is? It’s got some leaks and a rope tied to it for something?
Anything to be nervous about with these units?
Many thanks!!




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[crazylunker]

that thing has some miles but they are bulletproof, the rope is tied to the safety release(probably because the pull broke.....) all parts are available and the cylinders are rebuildable I wouldn't go more than 1400 for that one.

Can't tell what model from the pics but it looks identical to the 9&10000 lb lifts

 

[jetlag]

I've got a System I 10K in my shop. The 10K lifts had an additional stiffening gusset welded on the outside of the tower about halfway up.

The A7 is an asymmetrical lift, so it's not that.

The carriage looks like a system I lift, it's probably a 9K from 2000 or so.

I bought my system I based on a couple of pics from an auction. There was nothing wrong with the hydraulics, but the cam follower bearings (the eight smaller ones) were all frozen up with caked grease. I pressed them apart, cleaned and repacked them, gave everything a good cleaning, replaced some hydraulic lines, and was good to go.

The old style J-bar lock system is on the lift you're looking at. It's confusing at first, but pretty bulletproof. The frayed lock release cable is easy enough to replace.

Send the serial number to Mohawk, they'll tell you the model number and year it was built. If you can get it to your shop for under 2K, it's probably worth the money to clean up and install.

 

[hellspcangel911]

thanks everyone for the speedy responses. Ill see how much I can negotiate down.

 

[XJSuperman]

Its not a 12k model either, Id guess a 9k model, but you need the serial number or tag to be sure. Its labeled, you just need a pic of it sent to you if you arent local enough to go see it first.


Solid lifts no matter what. I agree with everything the others mentioned. Don't worry about the rope, just replace the safety release. Id take that over most of the lifts on the market today honestly.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Ive been looking for one somewhat locally for several years. Ideally the 9k. I see it doesnt have the chain between the two posts so i figured it cant be that old.
i do love restoring this type of stuff...

 

[jumbo61]

Does it have the pull valve next to the pump motor? My A7 has one because the lift arms get out of sync and you can raise or lower the far side arms to match the other. Something that was added over time. Great lift. They are made 30 miles from me.

 

[jetlag]

There's not much to go wrong. The slave side has a smaller diameter hydraulic cylinder, and it "floats" a little in the brackets. That's by design, don't worry if it seems like the cylinder is too small for the brackets. I'd choose a used Mohawk over most new lifts, hands down.

The biggest potential expense would be rebuilding the hydraulic cylinders, but it's more likely the hydraulic leaks are more about the fittings than the cylinder seals.

 

[ebfabman]

There's not much to go wrong. The slave side has a smaller diameter hydraulic cylinder, and it "floats" a little in the brackets. That's by design, don't worry if it seems like the cylinder is too small for the brackets. I'd choose a used Mohawk over most new lifts, hands down.

The biggest potential expense would be rebuilding the hydraulic cylinders, but it's more likely the hydraulic leaks are more about the fittings than the cylinder seals.

If you buy them new, Mohawk warranties the cylinders for as long as you own it. A bit pricey but they're the best lifts available.

I too would far prefer a used Mohawk over most any other new lift.

 

[86turbodsl]

It looks like a system1 9K to me too. I'd go for it if you can get it for 1500.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Hey all,
I went yesterday and picked it up. it looked a lot better in person. It was at a small 2 bay shop /gas station/lotto place. The current owners of 5 years bought the place with it so they didnt know much. The concrete under the left lift was crumbing, they had used two come alongs to 'secure' the top of the left post to an overhead steel girder. I'm sure they used it like that for a few times when the other bay was full, the lift didnt appear to sustain any damage.
After removing the lines, draining the fluid, pump, power and arms (wow those are heavy) we were in good shape.
Four of the anchor bolts pulled right out of the crushed concrete. The rest, all but 2, I was able to pound into the ground using one of the others as a punch.
There were 5 of us, we 'walked' the tower towards the center of the bay, backed the truck a few feet up to it without the tailgate, and let her down onto a pallet. Same for the otherside. Over all went very well.
On the way home had a serpentine belt start to squeal, and after the 50 mile drive half of it was shredded - but we made it.

Thanks everyone, I'll get some photos up of it on the truck.

-As happy as a kid on christmas

 

[XJSuperman]

I bet that truck was squealing with all that weight. Mohawks aren't light. We set ours up with a backhoe because there aren't enough friends in the world to stand up and carry one of those columns all around. Glad to hear you got it home. Now the fun begins

 

[hellspcangel911]

Older truck (93 F250 7.3 idi with a Banks Sidewinder) handled it like a champ, still got my usual 11 mpg.
I’ve got to store them till the workshop build is finished.. (4 months)


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[ebfabman]

Installing my system1.

 

[Strouty]

On my mohawk, the lift cylinders had wet seals by design, definitely contact mohawk with the serial number, they will get you a PDF manual and you can easily buy parts.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Very much looking forward to the day I raise the first post. AI have a backhoe loader with forks so that should go well enough.
I’ll get the serial number and give them a call. I’d also like to lose the overhead hydraulic line and put it in conduit in the floor, hoping they have some suggestions for that.


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[brownbagg]

at least the cylinders are rebuildable, bend paks are not

 

[Strouty]

They offer lines for in floor, they are not cheap, I think mine were $750 delivered, unfortunately I haven’t installed my lift yet as I am still trying to decide how my shop is getting reconfigured. I have a tough time with commitment, it has been several years and my poor lift is just itching to pick things up. Mine is a TP-15, so the lines could be cheaper for your lift.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Wow that is a lot, I was expecting around $300 and that was assuming a premium for Mohawk.

I’m having the same issue with placement. If I could at least figure if I want it towards the back of the 40’ bay so I can work on stuff but still drive in and out or if I want it at the front of the bay and have more storage behind it. Ah, commitment


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[Strouty]

The lines are all stainless and they include all the funky lines that go from the hydraulic power to the floor, they are all preformed. It shipped on a 12' board, I was going to pick it up, but I would have paid sales tax, my time, and fuel. I found the invoice and it was actually $660 for the kit, then $175 for the shipping, so it cost me $835 total. I stole the lift, so I am not concerned about sitting on the costs. My plan is to have a bridge crane, so going underground with the lines is the best option, but I may be moving my door to the other end of the shop, so I don't want to go through all the work of cutting the concrete and then have to move things.

 

[bjcouche]

I am not familiar with the older units but my system I 10K, uses commonly available SS hydraulic lines. Any farmer or anyone working with heavy equipment would be familiar with working with this type of line. When I built my shop I didn't want any overhead lines either. The Mohawk floor kit involves cutting a slot in your concrete to run the kit lines between columns. Then you fill the slot in with concrete or epoxy. I didn't want to cut a slot and then fill it in as I didn't want that look or potential unevenness when rolling things over that filled slot. You can buy SS hydrailic line in 20' lengths. Since I knew the exact lift location before pouring my concrete, I placed the hydraulic lines UNDER the concrete before it was poured. I poured the concrete and set the lines before even buying the lift. When the lift arrived the SS tube they used turned out to be the exact same make and part number that I had used.
In the picture you can see the hydraulic lines and electrical conduit coming out of the compacted gravel. They come out on the outside of the columns.

 

[bjcouche]

The rebar is absolutely NOT necessary. However before pouring the floor I had the option and it was nearly free, so I had that area poured thicker and with rebar for good measure.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Perfect install right there! Thanks for the advice, I’ve had to redo a lot of hydraulic lines on my farm equipment, and it’s always the fittings that are a fiasco


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[Shadowdog500]

Very much looking forward to the day I raise the first post. AI have a backhoe loader with forks so that should go well enough.
I’ll get the serial number and give them a call. I’d also like to lose the overhead hydraulic line and put it in conduit in the floor, hoping they have some suggestions for that.


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When I bought mine I talked about putting the line through the floor when the floor was poured and the factory rep for my area who does the installs really didn’t like that option. He said he saw a lot of people screw up with the placement of the line when the concrete was poured, and it didn’t give options if something is going to be changed or repaired later. He brought some extra Stainless tubing and put extensions on my lines so they now go up above the rafters. The top of the car has to reach 16’ in my shop before it hits anything. A friend had a Mohawk put in his shop and the line was elevated to run along the ceiling. Just a suggestion.

Is your lift the old one with one line or the newer lift that includes a second return line?

Congrats on your new Mohawk lift. I love mine! Chris

Here it is moments after being installed, notice the temporary wiring on the floor. Mine came out of bay 6 from a Saturn dealership.

 

[bjcouche]

Installing the lines through the floor before the concrete pour, YES, the location of the lines is critical. The location of my lift was not likely to move due to being centered in the garage door. I put the lines on the outside of the posts. There is a spec for the minimum distance for a concrete cut or other concrete "blemish" the the posts can be installed from. My lines go through the concrete just outside of that dimension. If I ever need to move the lift, I can just cut them of at the floor and when I reinstall the lift I'll just have to do overhead lines, worst case.

 

[jetlag]

Good for you. About a year before I bought my Mohawk, I had a deal fall through on an inexpensive Atlas lift. I was frustrated at the time, but so thankful later when I wound up with this one.

Mohawk uses 316 stainless, 3/8" OD, .035 wall thickness tubing. It's available from Swagelok (SS-T6-S-035-20) as well as other sources. If you're not going to bury the lines, or install it outdoors, you can also use 3/8" carbon steel. There's no reason to buy hydraulic lines from Mohawk, a local hydraulic supplier can make up custom lines far cheaper, exactly what you want, and with no loss in quality. If you do bury the lines, make sure there are no buried unions.

I raised my lines to run above the roof trusses in my shop. They cross about 16" above floor level, and I can lift my Ram 2500 and my wife's expedition to the full height of the lift without worry.

Installation is a snap. Biggest issue is standing the two posts if you don't have a crane of forklift. Use a proper rotary hammer and a good bit, make sure the pad is at least 5 inches thick, no cracks near the posts. My brother gave me a hand with mine, we had it laid out and bolted down in about three hours, and that included futzing around with chalk lines, and changing my mind a couple of times on exact placement.

 

[jetlag]

Wow that is a lot, I was expecting around $300 and that was assuming a premium for Mohawk.

I’m having the same issue with placement. If I could at least figure if I want it towards the back of the 40’ bay so I can work on stuff but still drive in and out or if I want it at the front of the bay and have more storage behind it. Ah, commitment


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Install it as far in as you can. I had to install my lift directly in front of my only shop door. There's plenty of room to move around all four sides, but it completely blocks the door when a car is on the lift. Next year, I hope to add another shop door, and when I do, I'll probably move the lift into that bay, which is full depth, and I can move the lift deeper into the shop. If/when that happens, I'll also probably bury the lines into the concrete.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Chris, mine is an older model with only one line. I was actually trying to locate the serial number after unloading it but can’t find it. The paint on the posts is original.

Jetlag- thanks for the specs on the tubing, you’re right that’s common stuff, I have some leftovers in the garage. What kind of Conduit do you guys put it in before the pour?

Checked out the belt damage on the truck, the idler pulley is gone so the belt is just spinning on what’s left of its bearing. 6 grove belt and only two groves entirely intact. But still runs fine... (new parts on the way)

 

[jetlag]

The single line Mohawk lifts are early 90s and older. That's likely a System I (9K capacity), or possibly a System II (6K capacity). The hydraulic system will need to be manually bled on installation. Take your time with that process, and the lift should be trouble-free.

While the lifts are disassembled, take a day or so with the posts laid down, remove the carriage stops, and remove the carriage assemblies. You can inspect all the bearings, and replace the safety lock cables much easier with the carriage out of the lift.

First thing Monday, shoot Mohawk an email with your serial number. They'll let you know exactly which model you have, and when it was built. Manuals are available on their web site: https://www.mohawklifts.com/wp/ops/browse-product-manuals/

download the system I/II manual, and the first system IA manual, and beween the two, you should have everything you need for your lift.

 

[Shadowdog500]

This manual gives the specs for the older System I and System II. http://www.mohawklifts.com/library/manuals/System I & System II 6-1987.pdf

The only noticeable difference I see is that it is the System II is a lot lighter (thinner material?) and the columns are about a foot closer together. Your can figure which one you have by measuring the span between the unions on the overhead line that is currently in the back of the truck. Page 21 of the manual shows that the distance between the unions is 100” on a Series 1 and page 22 shows that the span between the unions is 88” on a Series II.

Pages 21 and 22 also show that the hydraulic line is connected to the top of the offside cylinder on a System II and on the bottom of the offside cylinder on a System I.

You can also tell by measuring the height adapters. Page 26 and 27 shows that they are different heights on series I and II

I’ll try to find where the serial number is on mine tomorrow. if I find out where it is I’ll let you know. I assume it will be on one of the data plates near the pump.

You probably want to get a lifting point guide that shows where to properly lift all cars made since 1991. It’s $15 with free shipping from the ALI (American Lift Institute) https://www.autolift.org/ali-store/alilp-guide/


Chris

 

[hellspcangel911]

I just measured and it’s 93” between the two unions. There’s no tag on the lift. I hope this isn’t a 6k unit...


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[hellspcangel911]

But I the adapters are 3” and 6”


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[ebfabman]

The options you have configuring the lines in the floor will largely depend on how the floor was made up. My floor is 8 inches of 5000 psi mix with fiber and rebar both ways on 2 foot centers. Many would consider this overkill, but I had the material so I used it. I made a 7/16ths wide cut between the post, one inch deep and stacked the lines on top of each other. Been using it for 10 years every day. Rock solid.

 

[hellspcangel911]

I havent done the pour yet. I like your overkill approach, and if youve got the material, why not.

 

[jetlag]

But I the adapters are 3” and 6”


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Don't read too much into the length of the hydraulic lines. One of the previous owners very well may have decided to change the spacing between the two posts, and shortened or lengthened the lines. Check the posts carefully for an identification plate, with model number, serial number and capacity. It should be on the master side, near the pump and controls.

 

[jetlag]

I just measured and it’s 93” between the two unions. There’s no tag on the lift. I hope this isn’t a 6k unit...


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I don't think you've got the 6K lift. The only one I've ever seen had a different carriage. The carriage on that one rode on four large bearings inside the channels. It did not have the four smaller cam follower bearings that centered the carriage side-to-side. And the carriage body was made of lighter material, in fact the whole lift was lighter overall.

 

[hellspcangel911]

Thanks Jetlag, I also saw in the manual you posted the weight for the S2 is like 1700 pounds. After loading and unloading this one I can say it’s definitely more than that. Still not finding a serial or tag anywhere on the master tower.


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[Strouty]

I never asked Mohawk if they stamped the serial number anywhere else, if the nameplate is the only location, that would kind of stink.

 

[hellspcangel911]

That would stink. I wonder if someone removed the nameplate and painted the carriage red in an attempt to hide it...?


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[Shadowdog500]

I just checked my lift and there is a data plate near the top of the control side column.