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Quickjack stuck in up position...Rust?

J5hort

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Got a set of quickjacks, 5000 series. Noticed that the down button was not working so took apart handheld controller. All was good there, so thought it was relay/solenoid. Replaced those. Was originally able to lower with new solenoid as it had a bleed screw, but while cycling, one jack stayed up even with fat guy pressure on it. Air assist are charged with 50psi. Now both are stuck in up position. Took hydraulic ram and safety bar off one and still can't get it to lower. There is only the factory pivot points that could be holding it up. I hit them with PB Blaster, still will not budge. All along I thought it was the pump, solenoid or rams. Kinda relieved it may be actual jack frames... But can't get them to lower or move at all. Anyone have similar? Thoughts.
 
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J5hort

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even with fat guy pressure on it... means I stood on them. Being 240lbs and no hydraulic ram attached should mean gravity at the least should get them down.
 

BillK

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no hydraulic ram attached
I wonder if this has anything to do with it ? Most hydraulic systems have a check ball in the fitting. If the hose/pump is not attached to it it will not release. I found that out not that long ago when I didnt have the fitting tight on my press. Look at where the hose attaches. I bet there is a round check ball there.
 
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J5hort

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When I said not attached I meant physically disconnected from the frames, not just hydraulic lines disconnected. I think the connection points of the frame ( top, bottom, front and back are rusted stuck. Just looking for ways to free up.
 
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J5hort

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Yup, safety lock bar has been completely removed. I'm thinking rust and bound joints. There is no zerk fitting for lubrication, just a hole. I will continue to soak them, but seems like poor design. I may also be looking at replacing the joint with a steel bar or something that can at least be punched ouit. It would have to be pretty sturdy. Maybe a Grade 10 or 12 bolt. 1/2 of this is getting it retracted. Then I need to make sure the pump, controls and cylinders are functioning properly. Just thinking how/if the frames can be modified to eliminate the problem I am having now.
 

Chipm

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So cylinder is completely out and the frames still won't move? The axle part is not that tight a fit - that would be a lot of rust.
 
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J5hort

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Ya, should really be able to move without ram connected. Could be bound up. Drenching with penetrating oil.
 
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J5hort

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Stored in garage, but it is humid. Signs of rust on units. I imagine contact points are not painted. That and no zerks may have contributed in to rust.
 
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J5hort

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I'll try to post a pic. But now saturated with penetrating oil.
 

cmandp

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To add an alternative theory: Could it be that somehow you got these ramps to go way past their usual range of motion? Could parts that don't normally touch or interfere be wedged together?
 
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J5hort

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To add an alternative theory: Could it be that somehow you got these ramps to go way past their usual range of motion? Could parts that don't normally touch or interfere be wedged together?
Good point. They were raised with rams connected, so they would be at the normal top of cycle, but worth investigating.
 
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J5hort

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Ok, I had a chance to take some pics of the QuickJack I am working on. I have been soaking it with PB Blaster for a week, still will not budge. I'm thinking of a modification where I cut the cross tubes from the upper and lower frame and replace with a steel bar of heavy grade threaded rod. I feel this is the only way to punch out the inner tube as it is welded to the upright frame on the front and rear. I have been looking online for any solutions and are open to more. PXL_20260503_170100265.jpgPXL_20260503_170156597.jpgPXL_20260503_170147069.jpg
 

Bodj Built

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Can you put a floor jack between the lower and upper arms and use it to see if they will budge when being spread?
 

Chipm

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That's a lot of rust if they are really stuck like that. I'd get new frames, as I am under them several times a day every day.
 
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J5hort

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Surface rust, I am planning on refinishing. All steel is solid. My guess is that they are bound in the sleeves as they are probably not perfectly round. I do have lateral movement in one of the joints/sleeves now, but even when trying to place a pump jack in the middle there is no movement and jacks just lift off the ground.

Anyone make any modifications to these? I would imagine cutting the joint between bar and upright on both sides and replacing with some grade 8 threaded rod, or solid steel might do the trick. Most guys use stand jacks in addition to the quick jacks when getting under car. Can never be too safe.
 
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J5hort

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oh, just got some POR-15 that would be a great way to protect these after cleaning up.
 
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Bodj Built

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Surface rust, I am planning on refinishing. All steel is solid. My guess is that they are bound in the sleeves as they are probably not perfectly round. I do have lateral movement in one of the joints/sleeves now, but even when trying to place a pump jack in the middle there is no movement and jacks just lift off the ground.

Anyone make any modifications to these? I would imagine cutting the joint between bar and upright on both sides and replacing with some grade 8 threaded rod, or solid steel might do the trick. Most guys use stand jacks in addition to the quick jacks when getting under car. Can never be too safe.

How are the jacks lifting off the ground? Place the floor jack between the frames and pump. the bottom of the jack will push against the lower frame, top of the jack pushes against the top of the frame as seen in my beautiful artwork
Drawing-7.sketchpad(1).jpeg
 
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J5hort

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Yes, I did that. Front wheel of floor jack is an wide roller and may have found its way to the ground as I was using jack closer to the middle. There is no movement and the entire unit seemed to be sprung. BTW, artwork is not that bad. I can try closer to the end to match your artwork, but I fear I'm just binding teh joint up more in the wrong direction.
 

whateg01

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Yes, I did that. Front wheel of floor jack is an wide roller and may have found its way to the ground as I was using jack closer to the middle. There is no movement and the entire unit seemed to be sprung. BTW, artwork is not that bad. I can try closer to the end to match your artwork, but I fear I'm just binding teh joint up more in the wrong direction.
If you can't figure out how to position a floor jack so that it pushes against the top and bottom to try to get some movement, you shouldn't even be thinking about "modifying" these or anything else that involves safety! Sell them cheap and take your vehicles to somebody else for repairs!
 
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J5hort

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yup, 1st thing I tried, smacked the hell out of it.

To follow the jack method I used a air over hydraulic jack as the floor jack was not fitting flush and tweaking a bit. Here are the pics, notice the end shot where the bottom of the QJ is lifting. This is a lot of pressure. I think it may be time for plan B
.PXL_20260511_182253962.jpg
PXL_20260511_182302065.jpg
 
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J5hort

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Here's what I'm thinking. Cut yellow lines and insert grade 8 threaded rod and cap with nuts or steel bar with cotter pins to hold in place through tube as depicted in red.
PXL_20260511_182302065.jpg
 
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J5hort

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If you can't figure out how to position a floor jack so that it pushes against the top and bottom to try to get some movement, you shouldn't even be thinking about "modifying" these or anything else that involves safety! Sell them cheap and take your vehicles to somebody else for repairs!
Sorry. There are lots of reasons why the jack will not sit correctly. Reserve the smugness. Just trying to get ideas how to fix. See air-over-hydaulic jack pic and you can see I am not a novice and these things are jammed. Have not taken any of my six cars to the shop aside from recalls in 47 years, and probably wont start now. Please do not attack skill levels of you do not know them. (There is one in every crowd).
 

PCMusicGuy

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I'd be curious how much weight you'd have to stack on top of it until it collapses. Do you have any weight lifting buddies who can just keep piling it on until it unsticks or fails?
 

whateg01

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I'd be curious how much weight you'd have to stack on top of it until it collapses. Do you have any weight lifting buddies who can just keep piling it on until it unsticks or fails?
already suggested using a vehicle to put weight on it, but OP seems intent on trying to open it farther.
 
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J5hort

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I find it very hard to believe that rust on a pivot is holding this up while you stood on it. Have you contacted BendPak?
Not yet, but way out of warranty. I'll post a pic if you want, but ya, baffled as well. It has to be bound up. Id be looking for a work around and not spending a thousand on a replacement.
 

GRN96WS6

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I'd be concerned with the amount of force the air jack is putting on the frames that it will compromise the safety......I've had mine for 10yrs and never seen them lock up solid like that. Yours are pretty rusty, are you using them with salt dripping off cars on them or something? haha
 
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J5hort

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Just stored them in garage. It gets pretty humid in summer and in winter.
 
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J5hort

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True, I can certainly check with them. Was thinking that some here might have had similar issues or workaround. Many on the interwebs report hydraulic pressure on solenoid problems, which I thought was the problem, but appears to be more mechanical.
 
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J5hort

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Since the cylinder is laying on the ground, I think you might be right about that
I removed the hydraulic ram after the fact, that is how I came to that conclusion. Most reported the stuck in up position as a solenoid/relay issue, which I replaced. There is no lack of knowledge or expertise here. Just looking for other ideas or workaround.
 
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