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Quikrete epoxy floor covering

BoutTime64

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
19
Location
Lincoln NE
About 8 months ago, I applied Quikrete epoxy floor covering in my garage. It is comprable to what the epoxy version of Rustoleum is i suppose. The Lowes in town is the only place that carried it, as well as Rustoleum, but the guy at the store recommended it because it stood up to the hot tire test, where it wont peel after being under a hot tire.

Well I picked up 4 Kits, enought to cover my 24 x 36 pad. Each kit had the a gallon can of base, a pint of activator, floor prep (acid) stir stick, and floor speckles. It came in grey or tan. I got grey. It also came with a dvd that showed you evrey thing to do. Very informational.

Since my garage floor was a bit on the rough side, i decide to rent a floor grinder from my local contractor type rental place. Its a heavy sob and hard to move around but it did a good job of taking down the high spots and giving me a real nice surface to work with.

Before grinding
View media item 812
During grinding
View media item 814
After Grinding
View media item 813
I followed the instructions to a T. Although, when using more than one kit, things get a little tricky. Before you use the epoxy, you must mix the 2 parts and let it set for 30 min, ( i think), then while you are applying you need to keep a wet edge. You also have a narrow working time 2 or 3 hours i think. (It was 8 months ago) So you need to make sure you can forcast when you are going to need a new batch 30 min ahead so you can have it ready to go. My first batch didnt go to hot. I started with a brush around the edges. But by the time i was ready to use the roller on the far corner, it was starting to set up. That, and i had a flimsy roller. The thickness of the epoxy bent it all out of shape. So quick run to the hardware store, I got a heavy duty roller, rubber gloves, and extra rollers. This worked much better. After a few hours you need to change the roller since the epoxy in it will start to set up. And the gloves are good since the stuff gets everywhere and its super hard to get off.

It probably took 6 hours in total and it looks awesome. If there was a tiny pebble that got in the epoxy it would break off eventually and leave a tiny bare spot but that could have been avoided.

It is pretty slick when its wet. They sell a packet of special sand to give it some grit, but i passed.

You apply the color flakes if you like, when its wet, and it really makes the floor pop.

Corner that had the oil
View media item 815
Looks awesome, rough spots are from crappy cement, dont really notice unless the light comes in like that
View media item 816
Like i said, its been 8 months, ive dropped hammers off ladders, parked cars, dropped lumber and it holds up strong. If anything, the place where the car drives is the best looking from being rubbed clean all the time. Its really easy to clean too, i had overspray (from a can of rustoleum ironicly) and i scrubbed it with denatured alcohol, the paint came right off but the epoxy didnt care at all.

Its about the same price as the rustoleum brand but this brand seemed to appeal to me more. It seemed less flashy, and more business.

As described in the the pictures, the rough areas in the finish are from the rough concrete, the smooth concrete really show the true finish. There was a patch of concrete soaked in oil that i could not get out, I treated it with the acid, and washed it really well, and painted over it. No problems.

2 thumbs up dude.:beer:
 
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BoutTime64

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
19
Location
Lincoln NE
The each kit does something like 250 sq ft, but dont quote me. Its supposed to do a one car garage. I needed 4 to cover everything,at $64 a pop at Lowes. The floor grinder which isnt neccessary, was $65 for a day, but i got it on a friday afternoon and they arent open on the weekend so i had it for 2 days. Then I got misc roller with pole, rubber gloves, watering can to spread the acid, booties so the acid doesnt eat me, a brush or 2 for the tight spots, and a floor squeegie for when i have to rinse. I guess in the neighborhood of $350.

Now when my truck leaks all over, it comes right up off the sealed surface, otherwise that oil aint never comin off...

I could never find the website for the longest time, they spell the name so dumb.

http://www.quikretecoatings.com/epoxyGarageFloorCoat.jsp
 

nissan_crawler

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 12, 2008
Messages
9,638
Location
Wichita, KS
Yep, I put that on my floor 6 years ago (valspar brand, it's packaged under quikrete now).

I still haven't had any of it come up, except for where my rear tires spin backing it in the garage, due to a tall lip going into the garage.

It's held up to grinding, welding, plasma cutting, etc.
 

Todd.Brock

Well-known member
Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Messages
4,250
Location
Cincinnati
Its good to hear the difference. I know that the epoxy is great, but I cant spend a grand on materials, or anything close... My 2 car is mainly to just park the cars. I have another garage to work in, etc. I will really consider the grinder... Thanks for the write up.
 

AndrewnTX

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 18, 2009
Messages
251
Location
Plano, Texas
I used the same product 3-4 yrs ago. I like it a lot. :thumbup:

I went w/ tan plus flakes. I have a 3.5 car garage w/ 3 cars plus tools. So I did it in 3 stages, 1 car spot at each stage, 3 kits because I could only leave so much off the floor outside the garage for 5 days. I wanted to leave it to cure as long as possible before parking on it. It worked great.
 

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nate379

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Feb 2, 2009
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7,279
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Palmer, AK
Just an FYI, if you don't want the speckles, you can pull them out of the box and return them. Lowe's has them on the shelf for $10 a can, so you can save a bit of $$ on the kits.

That's what I did with the kits I bought. Decided I didn't want to mess with speckles. Every shop I've worked in was just grey.
 

catbert

Member
Joined
May 15, 2009
Messages
6
Location
Tobacco Road
Just finished mine today. It was a lot easier than I expected, and turned out great. I used the color kit with flakes and covered it with the clear finish. My fiends told me the clear adds years to the durability. We'll see about the durability, but it sure looks rockin'. It took exactly 3 color kits and 2 clear kits for my 3 car.
 

BDBLK2K3

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Joined
Mar 1, 2009
Messages
149
Location
Concord NC
I'm really glad I seen this thread , I have two kits to do my 2 car garage and was starting to wonder how well it would do .

I 'll have to get mine done now, I will also be putting the clear for extra protection .

My garage is 24 x 24 , so I hope 2 kits will cover it .

Bob
 
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ironimages

New member
Joined
May 2, 2009
Messages
1
Question for you guy's:

I have about an 8" lip of concrete block sticking above my floor surface can that be coated with the epoxy as well?
 

nickwrx

Active member
Joined
Dec 1, 2008
Messages
44
Wow, so glad I read this. I was going to buy roll mats, other epoxies, etc. All waaay to expensive right now. This is def. the way to go! And the fact that I can pick this up at Lowe's makes it even nicer!

Does anyone have a link to an old post or a list of their own on the exact "extra" materials needed? (gloves, squeegee,mixer, etc?)

Thanks again!
 

ironroad 9c1

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Sep 3, 2005
Messages
758
Location
Gum spring,VA
Careful when you buy this, it comes in two types , solvent based and water based,two different prices too I used the solvent based on half mine( do a search ) and its been really good so far, the clear they have really takes out the dullness and unevenness of the look of just using the basecoat though.
Before the clear
P1030222-1.jpg

After..
P1030238.jpg
 
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BoutTime64

Member
Joined
Mar 27, 2009
Messages
19
Location
Lincoln NE
Materials List, mmmmmm

Hose, spray nozzle, floor broom, floor squeegee, watering can: for washing floor, applying acid prep, and getting all the water out.

rubber boots so the acid prep didnt eat my shoes or pants.

Heavy duty roller with extension, a few replacement rollers and roller pan: This stuff is thick and will smash/bend a cheap roller out of shape. Epoxy on the roller will start to set up if your using multiple kits, you have to change them every so often.

Mixer stick is included i believe

medium grade brush, to do edges and cracks. I dont think much will get the epoxy out of it, so might as well toss it. No reason you cant to the brick that goes up a few inches on the side too.

Tarp or cardboard to mix everything up on

Latex gloves cause this stuff dont come off very easy.

Make sure you have everything ready to go when you start. I had to make a run to the hardware store when i started and when i got back it was setting up in the pan it got really tacky, and when applied when in this state it looses its sheen.

Try to apply when its cool out, not in the 80's, so it doesnt set up as fast. Also you wont sweat your @$$ off. There might be a minimum temp of the cement though, probably 50deg F

There is probably the same video at the website as there is that comes in a dvd in the box, that shows you step by step. Its pretty compete.

The finish of mine isnt as nice looking since the cement was pretty pitted in spots, but if its new, it would look like a mirror.

Glad this is a helpful thread.


:thumbup:
 

nickwrx

Active member
Joined
Dec 1, 2008
Messages
44
Awesome, thanks man!

My floor is terrible too. I have to rent a grinder just like you to get it down. Some idiot tried to patch over top and never really troweled it off so its very rough. Im not looking for a showroom, just something nice. And this will work great. Thanks again,
 

wildcat12

Active member
Joined
Jun 9, 2009
Messages
33
Location
cookeville tennessee
boys .... youre better off going to your local "commercial paint store" the one that deals with contractors, the products are at least the same as the big box hardware stores and they can advise you for free ! , or hire me to do it for you !
 

beelsr

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Joined
May 6, 2007
Messages
1,324
Location
NE PA, USA
Yes! In fact, it's a great way to seal the wall-floor interface so nothing can get lost rolling into the corner....



Question for you guy's:

I have about an 8" lip of concrete block sticking above my floor surface can that be coated with the epoxy as well?
 

Mojo1

Active member
Joined
Feb 8, 2010
Messages
26
Location
Houston, Texas
NIce to hear a good review, I am using this to redo my floor this weekend. I have the clear 2 part that is going over the colored 2 part, I was wondering if I can put the clear on while the other is still tacky or if I should let it dry completely first, any one know?
 

dodgepolara500

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Aug 16, 2006
Messages
557
Location
San Jose, CA.
Materials List, mmmmmm


The finish of mine isnt as nice looking since the cement was pretty pitted in spots, but if its new, it would look like a mirror.

Glad this is a helpful thread.



:thumbup:

Looks great and a nice thread for those who are interested in something more economical. It seems that you didn't add a clear coat to the top (and to cover the flakes). Would you recommend one to improve the shine and cover the flakes?

I couldn't find a clear coat on their website either.

Thanks:thumbup:
 

Crizzle

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Joined
Dec 2, 2009
Messages
506
Location
Indianapolis
That does look nice. I know this is an older thread, but the info around here on the eopxy garage flooring is what led me to this site in the first place.

I went with the Rustoleum myself, and then finished it with a coat of clearcoat. I think I am going to put another coat of clear over the top once spring hits and everything warms back up.

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=50414
 

nissan_crawler

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Jan 12, 2008
Messages
9,638
Location
Wichita, KS
Question for you guy's:

I have about an 8" lip of concrete block sticking above my floor surface can that be coated with the epoxy as well?

Mine is regular concrete, but I did mine. I didn't use clear or the flakes. It's still holding up well for what I do to it.

The color itself has faded some, and there's a few stains from various things (gear oil and such sitting for a long time), but the physical qualities haven't changed any.
 
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