I have bought a Quincy QT-5 compressor off of CL. The tank has 2 ports in the side and I am trying to remove the lower plug to at least do a visual inspection of the tank before I air it up. The plug is a 2"(?) pipe plug with 3/4" female square drive. I've soaked it with kroil for 2 days and a 3/4" breaker bar with 4 foot cheater didn't budge it so i pulled out the 1" impact. First attempt with the impact didn't do anything so I turned up the pressure a little. Still didn't turn it, but appears to be splitting the plug at the corners of the square drive. Any words of wisdom before I proceed any further? I'm reluctant to use heat on the tank and will probably use a 36" pipe wrench on what little flange is there along with the impact as my next attempt. Also, where can I find a replacement plug as my "local" Quincy dealer is 90 miles away?
Quincy QT-5 Compressor Tank Plug
- Thread starter SKFishing
- Start date
On my compressor, I found it was easier to inspect the tank with an inspection camera through the hole where the check valve is. (I was replacing it already)
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=inspection+camera
http://www.harborfreight.com/catalogsearch/result?q=inspection+camera
rburke65
Well-known member
I tried to remove my 2" plug on a new Champion.......never did get it out. Good luck.
G_P
Well-known member
Those plugs are installed by the hulk and then hammered tight by thor.
But if you do get it out and its 2" any pipe plug will fit.
Sent via carrier pigeon.
But if you do get it out and its 2" any pipe plug will fit.
Sent via carrier pigeon.
bad_idea
Well-known member
I removed one from a 60 year old tank last year. I used a 36" pipe wrench, propane torch, and a hammer. Don't heat it cherry red, just hot enough to break it loose. Put the pipe wrench on it, and smack the handle of the pipe wrench w/ the hammer several times while pushing on the handle w/ the other hand. Worked great. I then did a hydro on the tank after the visual proved sat. Has been working fine since.
Gus_Mahn
Well-known member
I'm not sure what the benefit of a visual inspection would be. With out ultrasonic thickness testing, you'll have no idea how thick it really is. I sometimes work on pressure vessel testing at work. We pressurize with water to 1-1/2 times normal operating pressure with water. There is ASTM code on pressure vessel inspection for reference, and hydrostatic test pumps cost less that $200, or you can contract it out. BTW I have a QT-5 I bought new 20 years ago. It's a nice but loud machine. I'm sure an intake silencer would quiet it up nicely.
venturesomerite
Well-known member
I just removed a inspection plug that has probably been on since it was new in 64, I used a breaker bar and a 5' pipe over it. I heated the plug around the threads (with the output pipe off so it was open and unpressure) ...Not too much effort later, it came out.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
You're most likely going to have to use a torch to break the plug free from the corrosion that has undoubtedly built up since the compressor left the factory.
Heard crickets for over two hours from you guys, so I went down to the shop to finish opening her up. Used propane torch over a large area to slowly heat it up and then iced the plug for a minute or two. Spun right out with the impact. Visual inspection tells me I probably need to inspect it further. I opened the drain before I bought it and didn't get any water out, not because it was dry, but because it was stopped up. 
Had almost 2 inches of water in it and likely been that way for months.
Had almost 2 inches of water in it and likely been that way for months.If I were to attempt a hydro test, will the existing air pressure gage read correctly with water in the tank? Or do I need to find a water/hydraulic gage and disconnect the air gage? Any reason not to use the pump off of a jackplate or power pole to pressurize the tank?
G_P
Well-known member
Sometimes you get lucky and a film of oil ends up protecting the tank.
I would get a different gauge to be safe (a cheap one if you only plan to do this once)
I have heard here that a grease gun can be used to pressurize the tank.
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I would get a different gauge to be safe (a cheap one if you only plan to do this once)
I have heard here that a grease gun can be used to pressurize the tank.
Sent via carrier pigeon.
Gus_Mahn
Well-known member
I'd think the gauge would be fine (as long as the range is ok), but we always use 2 gauges. Also make sure that you have a bleeder at the high point, and that you get all of the air out before pressurizing. You'll also want a valve in the fill line, so you can confirm that the tank holds pressure.
The tank may have a stamp or a tag with a test pressure. I'd think almost any hydraulic pump would work. For a tank that small I'd use a hand pump, because the pressure will come up very quickly.
The tank may have a stamp or a tag with a test pressure. I'd think almost any hydraulic pump would work. For a tank that small I'd use a hand pump, because the pressure will come up very quickly.
stonesfan68
Well-known member
If you're really worried about it then hydrotestest the tank.
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213166
http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=213166
venturesomerite
Well-known member
Greatbear
Well-known member
You can use a pressure washer to break up and flush out the loose scale. This works best if you have a nozzle with an angle adaptor. Slide the pressure wand inside, put a rag around the opening to catch the blowback and go to town. Once everything is washed out, let it sit for a while and inspect again. If you want to force it dry, plumb the exhaust of a shop vac in for a while.