Mthomas1686
Well-known member
Omg man that's a beautiful setup....all of it!
Racerboy’s Garage
- Thread starter racerboy
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
Maybe you said and I missed it....what product was used on the floor. Trying to decide what I want to do with mine.
Terranova
Well-known member
I don’t know if they’re all in or not all on but I’d definitely want more light in there.
Everything else is to die for. Great set up!
Everything else is to die for. Great set up!
GoldCar
Well-known member
What an incredible garage, I love it...
racer-john
Well-known member
Yep, sure is.
It was a coat of epoxy primer, two coats of 100% solid epoxy and then a urethane top coat. The company that did it doesn’t usually do small jobs like this, but the owner is a friend of a friend. I’m really happy with the way it came out.
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
Thanks. I'd be interested in seeing one of their commercial jobs that they did years ago to see how it is holding up.
I started shopping around for air lines. I want to go with a rigid aluminum pipe and will probably go with the infinity brand. My question now is would the do 1/2” (14mm) line be adequate or should I run 3/4” (20mm) for the main trunk and then have 1/2” drops? I’m the only one that would be using air and I would expect to have one run from the compressor go about 20feet from the compressor towards the front of the shop (ending near my 2-post lift). Blue line represents air line.
I wouldn’t necessarily run it all the way up to the ceiling, I just did that to show the overall length.
I would then have another run that crosses over the top of the garage doors. I would have one drop done down in between the doors (that’s about 35 ft) and the run would continue to other side of garage, make a 90° turn to track up to the front of the other bay (another 45 ft). My plan is to put in a BendPak HD-9 over there and my understanding is that I will need air for that:
I already have a 1/2” whip hose coming out of my compressor, so if you think I need to plumb it with 3/4” pipe, I’m assuming I’d have to change that.
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I wouldn’t necessarily run it all the way up to the ceiling, I just did that to show the overall length.
I would then have another run that crosses over the top of the garage doors. I would have one drop done down in between the doors (that’s about 35 ft) and the run would continue to other side of garage, make a 90° turn to track up to the front of the other bay (another 45 ft). My plan is to put in a BendPak HD-9 over there and my understanding is that I will need air for that:
I already have a 1/2” whip hose coming out of my compressor, so if you think I need to plumb it with 3/4” pipe, I’m assuming I’d have to change that.
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Garage door guys showed up today. They installed a new door (16x7) and LiftMaster 8500 screwjack opener. They also installed a pair of the LiftMasters for my 2 shop doors. Now it’s time to order a 4-post lift for the shop and maybe a single-column lift for the garage. I’m still going back and forth on that.
Garage:
Shop:
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Garage:
Shop:
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Boostingaz
Well-known member
Looks good 
andyvh1959
Well-known member
Since I'm in the hydraulic and pneumatic hose industry for 27+ years I tend to focus on anything hose wise. That air hose coming out of the compressor, would be better set up with a 90 elbow where the hose connects. That bend in the hose cause by its own weight will eventually cause issues for the reinforcing in the hose. I always strive to do whatever I can to take any stress off a hose. By the way, GREAT looking shop, wow!
I am now beginning to build my own air system out of copper. I’m using 3/4” for the long runs with four 1/2” drops. I was going to buy the RapidAir or Prevost aluminum pipe system, but having never worked with copper before, I thought it’d be kinda neat to build my own. We’ll see how that turns out. LOL
Here is my water separator/cooling manifold. It is all 3/4”. There will be a ball valve at the bottom of each leg. I will follow Andy’s suggestion about getting a straight shot out of the compressor to connect to this manifold. These legs are 5’ in length. Do you think I need to add any more? Considering I had no such manifold in my black pipe system, this is already a step up.
I had a couple of questions about my compressor outlet and my NPT fittings for my air hose connections.
My compressor has a 1/2” outlet with a 2’ hydraulic whip hose. Should I be looking at changing this over to a 3/4” outlet or at least a 3/4” hose, since the rest of the system is 3/4”, or does that not really matter considering there will never be anyone else beside me running an air tool?
My other questions have to do with connecting the air hose to the 1/2” drops. I mimicked the setup I was using when I had 1/2” black pipe. My plan was to put a T in the drop; a 1/2” female fitting; 1/2” to 1/4” reducer; connection for air hose.
Is it ok to use a 1/2” to 1/4” black pipe reducer with copper?
Is there a cleaner way to do this? I don’t think this looks like the most efficient way to accomplish my goal.
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Here is my water separator/cooling manifold. It is all 3/4”. There will be a ball valve at the bottom of each leg. I will follow Andy’s suggestion about getting a straight shot out of the compressor to connect to this manifold. These legs are 5’ in length. Do you think I need to add any more? Considering I had no such manifold in my black pipe system, this is already a step up.
I had a couple of questions about my compressor outlet and my NPT fittings for my air hose connections.
My compressor has a 1/2” outlet with a 2’ hydraulic whip hose. Should I be looking at changing this over to a 3/4” outlet or at least a 3/4” hose, since the rest of the system is 3/4”, or does that not really matter considering there will never be anyone else beside me running an air tool?
My other questions have to do with connecting the air hose to the 1/2” drops. I mimicked the setup I was using when I had 1/2” black pipe. My plan was to put a T in the drop; a 1/2” female fitting; 1/2” to 1/4” reducer; connection for air hose.
Is it ok to use a 1/2” to 1/4” black pipe reducer with copper?
Is there a cleaner way to do this? I don’t think this looks like the most efficient way to accomplish my goal.
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So I finished the manifold today. I hooked it up to compressor to test for leaks and only had one of my soldered joints leak.
I did have one other leak. This is where the whip hose connects to the compressor. I am using a galvanized union, but am wondering if I should use another type of connector? I did use pipe sealant. Here’s a shot of the female side of the union:
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I did have one other leak. This is where the whip hose connects to the compressor. I am using a galvanized union, but am wondering if I should use another type of connector? I did use pipe sealant. Here’s a shot of the female side of the union:
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I finished the cooling manifold and mounted it today.
I currently have a Sharkbite cap on the end until I install my 3/4 runs. My plan is to go up another 3 ft to the ceiling and then install a T. The first run will go left of T towards the front of garage and I will have a 1/2” drop down (near the black I-beam) for running air tools.
Where is best place to install regulator? Should I bring down another 3/4” drop and then do a short run wher I can reach the regulator, or do a 1/2” regulator on the 1/2” drop?
I mapped out a couple of options, and was just curious which would be best.
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I currently have a Sharkbite cap on the end until I install my 3/4 runs. My plan is to go up another 3 ft to the ceiling and then install a T. The first run will go left of T towards the front of garage and I will have a 1/2” drop down (near the black I-beam) for running air tools.
Where is best place to install regulator? Should I bring down another 3/4” drop and then do a short run wher I can reach the regulator, or do a 1/2” regulator on the 1/2” drop?
I mapped out a couple of options, and was just curious which would be best.
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Hi. I've been reading a bunch of different posts on where to put the regulator/water separator. I was originally going to look for one with 3/4" input/outlet to match the long copper run, but it seems a lot of folks put them right where they attach their air reels, so do i look for a 1/2" set-up or maybe 3/8"?
Point of use is the best place to have a regulator. 3/8 regulator should have plenty of flow for a home shop, but if there’s not much of a price difference, you can’t really have too big of a regulator. Keep in mind, most air reels you’ll find have a 1/4” NPT inlet, so you’ll need to reduce the lines down regardless.
slik560
Well-known member
Very clean, well-planned set up. Subscribed for the Porsche alone. Nice.
Nice.My plan in my shop is to have a master regulator along side the water separator, then at specific work stations where I know I will use specific tools (i.e., welding table) I will add a secondary regulator to dial back shop air pressure.
M-technik-3
Well-known member
Wow that is quite the home heating oil tank. 1000 Gallons? I would sure hate to fill that thing. Nice place you've got there.
Trapps
ALLIANCE MEMBER
Great set up and I LOVE the bikes!
I sold a '99 ST4 (twice) that I regret almost every day. I was the 2nd owner, know the 1st. 32,*** miles and ran like a champ.
Is that a Puig on your Multi? Do you like it?
I sold a '99 ST4 (twice) that I regret almost every day. I was the 2nd owner, know the 1st. 32,*** miles and ran like a champ.
Is that a Puig on your Multi? Do you like it?
sean Buick 76
Well-known member
Great garage! I’m was very happy to go to the direct mounted motors, so much quieter and smooth! And it saves space for the lift. More info on the Trans Am?
I haven’t been posting here in a while but I have a question about AKON garage curtains. I’ve been doing a lot of cutting/grinding to box in the rear frame of my 2003 Tacoma (the factory only boxed the forward part and the rear always rust out and disintegrate, at least if you live in the northeast, hence the muti-million dollar frame recalling all 1st gen Tacomas) and have been generating a considerable amount of dust. On the side of my shop with the single door, I keep my ‘67 GTO and my ‘70 Trans Am (on a lift) and they are both always covered, but I noticed a lot of dust on the covers from my grinding. I built a little temporary wall out of foam board this weekend, but I saw these AKON garage curtains and was wondering if that was a better route to take. In fact, o was thinking it might be better to get a three-sided curtain to basically close off the space I work I, as opposed to just a straight line separating the part of the shop I work in vs the part where the Pontiacs are kept. I’ll draw up something to show what I’m thinking, but does anyone have any experience with this company?
Swanny1953
ALLIANCE MEMBER
I have no experience with the brand you mentioned, but I do have a Goff's curtain wall in my addition. Here's their website - https://goffsenterprises.com/
Very happy with this curtain wall. It runs the length of my 30' addition, and does a good job of keeping any dust contained to the "dirty" side of the garage.
Very happy with this curtain wall. It runs the length of my 30' addition, and does a good job of keeping any dust contained to the "dirty" side of the garage.
Jblount3
Well-known member
Awesome space
Picked up a Grizzly horizontal bandsaw last week and a HF heavy-duty cart. I also just got my first plasma cutter (a couple of weeks back) and a TIG welder. I don’t know how to TIG weld, but I thought it would be good to learn. I’ll post another pic with the Mig, Tig and plasma cutter together. I also just won a Beverly B1 shear on eBay last night. When it comes in I’ll post some pics. It needs a new blade.
I also looked at those Goff curtains. They look nice. I’m going to call them later this week
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I also looked at those Goff curtains. They look nice. I’m going to call them later this week
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Shop looks great, had lost sight of your thread for a while.
You'll enjoy the TIG, its not hard to pick up, and I've very much learned that both the MIG and TIG have a place, so they are equally good tools to have a around.
Look forward to seeing what you do with the curtains, I could really use something in my shop to keep things a little more under control when doing heavy metal working, it's become very apparent with my current project, and my next will only become more fab intense.
You'll enjoy the TIG, its not hard to pick up, and I've very much learned that both the MIG and TIG have a place, so they are equally good tools to have a around.
Look forward to seeing what you do with the curtains, I could really use something in my shop to keep things a little more under control when doing heavy metal working, it's become very apparent with my current project, and my next will only become more fab intense.
I was going to start another thread, but figured I’d keep this one alive. So we are closing on a new house later this week. A 21 acre horse farm located a bit further south in NJ (Hunterdon County). The house currently has a 3-car garage (I do have to build another shop) that has a full size loft over it with a staircase. My plan is to put my two storage lifts in the current garage (Doors 1 and 2) and my service lift in the yet to be built new shop. To do this I will need to raise the floor of the loft (or ceiling of garage) to accommodate the storage lifts. I would leave the loft over Door 3 as-is and use that as storage.
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Here is what the loft looks like. What would be involved with raising this floor to around the yellow line over the two garage bays? I’m also not opposed to eliminating that part of the loft at all and just have it wide open. Not sure if that is even possible. My contractor did not seem to think this was that big of a deal but I wanted to get some feedback from my GJ friends. I’ll get some better photos later this week after we close on the house.
