Ratchet drive size vs. ratchet "strength"

[Applesauce]

I've seen threads here recently about the "best ratchet design" and "looking for a strong 1/4" ratchet". All of them play up this teeth count and that, but really: won't the drive itself break before the ratchet mechanism? Never having broken a ratchet, it seems like (especially in the 1/4" size, which I use most) the drive would twist or shear before there would be problems in the ratchet mechanism.

At least a few times, with an 8 or 10 mm hex bit on my 1/4" Dual-80 ratchet, I've felt like I was putting the drive itself at risk - but nothing else. Can anyone share ratchet failure modes and add pictures?!

 

[TwoInch]

generally teeth strip before the square drive shears off. i have never actually seen a sheared drive.

fine tooth is "better" or stronger, if designed properly. you get more surface area contact with more smaller teeth than the 3 or 4 larger teeth in a coarse tooth design. if the fine tooth mechanism has only a few small teeth like some of the cheap imported designs, they can be generally weaker.

 

[General Geoff]

obviously the square drive size contributes to strength, otherwise there would be no reason to have larger drive sizes. I've seen breaker bars twist/shear off at the square drive, but have yet to see a ratchet with that as a failure point.

 

[Rtw5150]

I broke the handle off a 1/2" dr Craftsman ratchet and the teeth never slipped once!

 

[msgtsmithret]

Most people break their ratchets because it's the WRONG tool for breaking torque on a nut or bolt. Instead use that dusty tool in the back of the box called the "breaker bar". The name might give away it's purpose if you think on it a minute. I know this sounds "preachy" and maybe it is. I've been watching people break their ratchets for 33 years trying to break torque with them.

 

[Rtw5150]

I use my Matco 24" breaker bar all the time. I didn't think it was really necessary for a 13 mm socket, and I surely didn't think it was possible to break the handle on the ratchet.

 

[ChevyEFI]

Not a lot of breakage experience here, but SK's round head 36 tooth 3/8" stuff will snap the square off before the teeth go, in my experience. (big cheater on a 3870.)

 

[Outlawmws]

One of the big tool manufacturers tests to destruction routinely, and it's the square drive that shears off..

 

[basspro]

I sheared the square drive off my 3/8" drive dual 80 long handle snap-on, 3/4" 6pt Craftsman socket, pulled straight back. I use a breaker bar alot more now, havent broken the drive on one of those yet, granted I use it properly.

 

[d.mcfarland]

In the Cornwell ratchet testing video on youtube, the square drive breaks before the teeth slip. It is built by design to do that they say.

 

[djjsr]

I broke the handle off a 1/2" dr Craftsman ratchet and the teeth never slipped once!

Was a pipe involved?

 

[Rtw5150]

Was a pipe involved?

Sadly, no. It was one of those round handle Craftsman with two grooves in the handle up by the head. It snapped clean off at one of those grooves.

 

[jshultz78]

I was in the junkyard once, and all I had with me was my snapon t72 1/4" ratchet and the general service set, and I pulled apart the front cap and got the fenders off a 93 blazer. Never once skipped a tooth.

 

[Flatintoone]

Is it possible that the square drive is the weak point, but with age, wear, lack of lubrication, contamination, etc, the mechanism becomes more likely to fail?

 

[firebox40dash5]

I've broken 2 drive tangs on 88T Matco 1/4s. Both were the result of an ill-advised plan to use them with about an extra 6" of cheater pipe. I was actually pretty surprised the rest of the ratchet held up, especially the 2nd time when I did it with the flex-head, I would have expected the pivot to break first.

Never broken a 3/8 or 1/2 ratchet. Although watching how much the 15" 3/8 handle flexes when I pull on it isn't the most confidence-inspiring sight.

 

[KEH]

In looking for used tools, I've seen numerous broken drives, usually on cheap ratchets. Of course, I've run across plenty of broken ratchet gears also.

KEH

 

[Flatintoone]

I thought about it, and realized that I almost never see ratchets with broken drive ends. Then I realized that a ratchet with a broken drive end is probably tossed or repaired, while the ones with dead or dying internals are more likely to sit in old toolboxes forever...

 

[JerseyBoatBuilder]

Even though I have warrantied quite a few T72's
All of the dual 80 1/4" ratchets are supposed to be good for up to 90 ft lbs so I use them that way and don't care if any of them break my guy will just take my broken one and give me a new one

Never had any problems with any of the others though just the T72's for some reason and it was always the direction switch and or gear mechanisms 3-4 in 12-15 months time, my current one has out lasted all of them combined though.

 

[TinKnocker]

The new craftsman rp with the thingamajig in the middle shears before the pawl slips. Ive seen this alot in the 1/4 and a few times in the 3/8.

 

[bobcatdan]

I shear the drive off as much as I break teeth. No rhyme or reason to which gives first.

 

[Applesauce]

All of the dual 80 1/4" ratchets are supposed to be good for up to 90 ft lbs...

Seriously?! That's nuts! I had no idea a 1/4" drive would take that kind of torque. I use a TL72 for several hours everyday, and was a bit surprised to see there's an even longer one... I guess I can quit worrying about mine.

 

[jal395]

 

[Applesauce]

Is that a Facom?

 

[TwoInch]

RHFT i believe

 

[JerseyBoatBuilder]

Seriously?! That's nuts! I had no idea a 1/4" drive would take that kind of torque. I use a TL72 for several hours everyday, and was a bit surprised to see there's an even longer one... I guess I can quit worrying about mine.

According to Snap On they do

Based on Dual 80™ Technology these ratchets feature:

Strength: Provides up to 90 ft. lbs. Of ultimate torque to help break loose rusted and seized fasteners faster and easier.

Precision: Dual pawl, 72 tooth mechanism provides 15% less ratcheting arc to engage the next tooth allowing you to ratchet in tighter areas.

Durability: Snap-on's ultimate strength and patented sealed mechanism provides permanent lubrication while sealing out dirt, dust and other contaminants leading to a tool life.

http://buy1.snapon.com/catalog/item...roup_ID=682476&store=snapon-store&dir=catalog

 

[SpiderGearsMan]

BREAKER BAR yeah

 

[The Ratchet Man]

I would think that ratchets with a quick release would be more prone to shear the square drive since its hollow.

 

[gsmornot]

All I know is I would like to be strong enough to break the drive end on a 1/2" ratchet without a cheater. Wow.

The only time I have had a ratchet give was after I modified the internal spring to make it ratchet easier. I cut a little too much off which allowed it to break lose and free spin under load. I had to locate a new spring to fix that and remind myself not to modify the tool. Ha.

 

[Applesauce]

All I know is I would like to be strong enough to break the drive end on a 1/2" ratchet without a cheater. Wow.

Haha, yeah...definitely part of me feels that way. Maybe I shouldn't be worried that I'll break this, that, or the other ratchet, but that I'm too weak to break any ratchet, regardless of drive size!

 

[jal395]

http://www.garagejournal.com/forum/showthread.php?t=158765

RHFT 1/2 Drive

It was broken being used with a cheater pipe

 

[billymade]

Check out this safety guide by Wright tools; it has a chart that breaks down which drive size to use, for the size of fastener you are working with. As most have said; when using quality tools, the right tool for the job... will break less often.

http://wrighttool.com/safety/PDF/safetyEvaluation.pdf

 

[djb2]

All I know is I would like to be strong enough to break the drive end on a 1/2" ratchet without a cheater. Wow.

It's all in the 'technique'.

Find a good FWD axle nut. I used a Toyota Camry for mine.
Set up a jack or jack stand to support the ratchet end of the wrench.
Balance on the end of the wrench.
Start jumping like it's a diving board.

 

[grogthegreat]

It's all in the 'technique'.

Find a good FWD axle nut. I used a Toyota Camry for mine.
Set up a jack or jack stand to support the ratchet end of the wrench.
Balance on the end of the wrench.
Start jumping like it's a diving board.

That's a good one!

I've sheared off a harbor freight 1/2" drive torque wrench trying to remove an axle nut in a junk yard. A large cheater pipe was involved. Don't judge!