rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[Boosted1]

Looking good Justin. I like the sleeves and boxed frame.

 

[rattle_snake]

Is there a plan for a similarly tapered plate at the rear? The boxed to not boxed transition needs to be gentle or you risk cracks where the torsional stiffness changes dramatically.

Yes, doing the boxing in stages and will terminate with a tapered end. Where exactly not sure. Currently back to the body mounts. Might go one more section then cab would need to come off.

Looking good Justin. I like the sleeves and boxed frame.

Thanks. Enjoying this phase of the build.

 

[rattle_snake]

With the IFS up an inch and forward 2, the LCA rear mount almost fits. The factory mount has an oversized oval hole.


With LCA forward bushing centered and torqued the clearance is not much. A piece of 9/16 DOM could be used instead and not need frame modifications. But adjustability is limited without a bushing.


In between solution is a 'standard' 2-5/8 x 9/16 poly bushing. 2" OD DOM 0.25 wall. It contacts the frame slightly.


To fit properly I notched the frame in a similar fashion as the others. Cut out a 0.5 x 3.5 triangle and bend the lower flange up, radius intact.


Now the bushing has some clearance.


With LCA mod done, continued the frame boxing back to the cab mounts. Needs at least one more section to tie into the cross member.


Cut some brackets for the shock tower bracing. Instead of 1/4 or 3/8 material, using all 3/16 with overlays as needed. Minimal weight added.


Used 2 layers of 3/16 for the ear, then split to support in 2 planes.


Added outer braces and weld washers for the subframe bolts.

 

[Boosted1]

Coming along nicely. That's going to be stout.

 

[zmotorsports]

Looking good Justin.

 

[rattle_snake]

Coming along nicely. That's going to be stout.

Thanks. That's the idea, solid and rigid. Kinda the opposite of most CV IFS installs. Not that quick and easy is bad, just not my style.

Looking good Justin.

Thanks Mike!
Has been a lot of grinding and welding and grinding. Really like the 2nd paddle style cordless angle grinder I recently bought. One with a death wheel and the other with flap wheel. Usually use 60 grit, bought some 40s they plow through weld but wear quick. But for the money it's well worth the time saved. The older trigger style grinder has a wire brush, and now that it is cordless I actually use it. I have four larger capacity batteries and they are more than enough for how I use the tools.

The modifications to my mechanic stool really make it work a lot better. Wider base and bigger wheels make all the difference. Working low to the ground is hard on my back and the improved stool makes a difference. Needs a larger seat, I have been wanting to make a new seat pan/pad and cover with some nicer material, in Viper tan.

 

[rattle_snake]

Fired up the plasma and cut the parts for the second side. Hopefully the last batch on the table for this machine.


Hoping the cleanup effort on thick material with a larger capacity machine is significantly reduced.


Welded up the frame boxing plates and slicked out the frame rails. Tacked the upper supports in place.


One step closer to getting it back on it's wheels. Frame boxing needs to go one more panel back, with tapered ends. Rear LCA mounts, steering, brakes.


With the frame welding done I removed the brace between the towers. No preload so nothing moved. Measured the frame horns to see what the heat did. Narrow by over an inch, well that *****. Looked more closely at the frame rails and decided that they are both bent to the right. I corrected the right rail somewhat. Took some cross measurements and the left side needs to move out and right is all right. Plan to cut the flanges and box plate where the seams are and reposition as needed. This way the core support and bumper will fit properly.