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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

Muckin_Slusher

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Abitibi
I changed an electrical switch without cutting the power when I was about ten or twelve.
Neither of my parents were mechanically or electrically inclined.
Got hit with one phase of 3ph 600V, it moved me a little, but I am still here at 88 yrs. young.

I'm 100% for letting kids learn lessons the hard way, like I'll tell them once that the wood stove is hot, after that they're on their own, but...

I'd have a pretty hard time letting my ten year old work on 600 volts live!
 
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zmotorsports

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Nice setup Justin.

Our first RV was a 10.5' Northland camper that I hauled around in the bed of our uuuummmm cough, cough, Ford F-250 (tongue in cheek) that I converted into a dually.
 
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rattle_snake

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Completed the audio wiring on my Lance camper. I realized that the exterior bulkhead connector I had was only 12 ga, so I swapped it out for a 10 ga, and used the 12 ga one on the interior. Why? The internal wiring goes through bat sw, fuse and longer length of wiring so one step down in wire size for the last foot won't really matter. The exterior connection is direct and will be used the most.

I placed the interior high current power jack on the side of the kitchen cabinet. Plan to store the system up by mattress while travelling and can use it there too.
Also added a panel same as on the sub box, to charge phones or whatever. I had added one cigar jack long ago, but with family of four one charger wasn't enough. So now I have 2 cigars and 2 USB on the inside and more on sub box. Didn't really need switch or volt meter, but the whole panel assembly is really inexpensive. Wired the volt meter to the switch so it can be turned off and not be annoying at night. I blacked out all windows and vents so it is pitch black when I want it to be. I needed my dogs and little kids to sleep in back then... The volt meter gives a better indication of battery capacity than the simple lights on the monitor panel above it.

The interior wiring works OK and doesn't pop the branch DC fuse at full throttle, so calling it a win. Camper had 10 ga THHN run to this location already.

ACtC-3fBSfNpe58-Xri1KfF5sKIz53lk6MjCaw6c9VDQrHktKJsFG00s2QUGj4fBliCr7KkN0ENIlvCnFfMaSUnpUA5mp2kwoQA5JbBH1ZN_Xoi2_hpW0sVpI38QdpW7zv9DuSeYil55WQ2_h4X9Y1u7Doh5=w525-h699-no
 
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rattle_snake

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Finally got going on the bumper project. Had material and rough plan for awhile but had to wait for a time that I could actually think clearly enough to do anything.
Step one was cardboard templates and general plan. I started with 2 variations; a flat top and another with an extra bevel. The bevel makes it look more modern, the flat top more simple, blocky and better fit for a '72.
Then tried a few variations of the center panel width, 24, 26, 28. Made another attempt with the bottom plate angled up to maximize approach, but gain was minimal and with center panel shorter the wings didn't have as much slope and looked boring, out of place.
Plan C was to copy the Protofab design, which is a wedge and mounts winch up high out of the top of the bumper. It has steep **** angles and maximizes approach but I want the winch hidden and focus on the truck, not the bump/winch.
ACtC-3egsYXiC9jZnksRCad-X-XgRWHimmaSHhlF2B8GmUR8xwlWEBh_bWYKS3-z_winK0k75RMrn-xplUiAEqL3jmNDivXrzxTNNhuoom_T9b9c0MVW2kbnU9msxivYsJlAFSq5pw8VGTIalFLNhntOUm2i=w932-h699-no


So I settled on an in-between design, stole some aspects from Proto and went to work with the steel. I waste a lot of time making things fit overly tight and maximize every unnecessary aspect, then trying to get it to actually fit. I decided to make it fit looser and mounting adjustable. An old Ford front end isn't square so adjustability is needed, and left frame rail is all tweaked from version 2 of the steering box mod. Instead of bolts in 3 planes (bottom, front, side) that allow no freedom of movement, all bolts will go on sides with slotted holes like you would find on a commercial bumper that has to fit any given truck across manufacturing tolerances.

I spaced the belly plate down (so it can be adjusted up if needed) and built everything off it. Front panel had enough angle to not be boring but not too much angle to pinch rope in fairlead.
ACtC-3cQAz7i2lDXrFrOv8LgwFav-_dxMqLSvjn0Il0Y0NF7DxAvMgEhm6LoO11CG530NLDPN9Yu4yKXL2kDEw10UH4xxkxi5ZOy8w6ARdN49btgLtU6BbHMzIM_DeVrf3ngcef7hmUVAMKHtampuo3W_veY=w932-h699-no


Used a piece of tube to establish top plane, made a template and fit the pieces. Goal is a symmetrical not just to fit the front clip how it sits today.
ACtC-3eIr5iWERCanzTvHzyoRr0ektWzfqjrxAWfwQ1z1dhDX8TksENrHMUHT1aF295rUAp9Jd8NXmW_bxZVYCk6Wng-mdqHAe89P5RxhxC2nA960rIHXdkiGAM8zuaZpcUoa4ON97hPOFslHp-V18wJG_b8=w932-h699-no


Hole for the winch seems big but still a tight fit. Winch can be installed with bumper on truck. Winch will be spaced off floor and with angled spacer so winch will sit flat like the top surface.
ACtC-3fq8pAzPNNk-He7k1ED-66kc9NLO0jxdHY05Gc-Q9UZYzsioBNY8fRxpIJJGL3VSImpE8on4MRSNydi2kaj9NrB_6Nse631upFJH19GmVP8DAzgzmwDLPZRxXv8oMhx5fOIp3IvSbW0SfPmDB_Z03Th=w932-h699-no


Cut and tacked the outer front plates to get an idea of how it will look. Will have to come off to fab the mounting brackets.
ACtC-3cbEO8TBVSlu9RiQyq_IILmx5FaAM8_Owx_OgXh0LnjxP1PoTFiQadFZMb5Jlv3hG1-j9x219k9X9PHoKvDJuqo4uPiKYR2MZienWQbYPAb11_9YRcupXnvg6jZngk4HTuPRlYPsYjvWVLC09vSDGqL=w525-h699-no


Dropped winch in to see how it looks. Pretty happy with result so far. I think the bumper itself will weight only about 60-70 lbs.
ACtC-3cp34AU5O1hEm9LFIhbeT00vC0iKEYtunl2FH3QxTMEWcgXzLzcctjTKYrIGNL3eV0I_JIa1AZaMJmzADFkg4KFOMfoKAOXj62Hh1EknHUEZxSNRJJusVpa8Xpksa_PCqbBJ4QiRRxWu2nsqNvW4kzL=w932-h699-no


Although it looks like a bumper have a long way to go. Ordered some 1" thick clevis mounts. Working on mount brackets now, and need to come up with plan for the ends. Using Plasma to cut 3/16 plate. Like welding it is all about hand and speed control, finally getting decent with it.
ACtC-3f1WVs8XgpLlUGybdPT-I7IRRK94qt191iZtPC9Gpwz78ZS5eF-SUGnJeV24zvqG7sLLU58qO-Fs8a4QtbCXuoa-vhQ4AixoBUE2c3Wmp6Am1wDgaSU0N4c5IYJtge6EOPANB6SJKTCpWgHgFDY-HNb=w932-h699-no
 

csp

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Nice looking bumper. Simple, effective and doesn't take away from the lines of the truck.

It seems that so many are those gargantuan bumpers that remind me of a fat guy with a fanny pack.
 
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rattle_snake

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Nice looking bumper. Simple, effective and doesn't take away from the lines of the truck.

It seems that so many are those gargantuan bumpers that remind me of a fat guy with a fanny pack.

Yes, most all new pickup bumpers are really ugly. It seems they have to get more gaudy to differentiate from competitors. Disco Diesels... :headscrat
96c5e4a41d5d8a3af3b3841aa1019224.jpg


Even the road armor bumper I put on my 2014 F250 has that shape. It was the least ugly of the options. It sits low and far out, which is the opposite of what I want. I have wanted to cut it up and change things, but too many projects.
 
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rattle_snake

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The lines look good.

Justin,
Wonderful design, it really suits the truck.
Fantastic project.

Royce

Awesome looking bumper design Justin. Tight and clean with the winch sunk in deep. Love it.:thumbup:
I may have stolen some ideas from the bumper you built for your son's WJ...

What CPS said
Nice looking bumper. I'm glad you think more of your truck than to pull the attention to a big a$$ bumper.[emoji106]

Thanks guys! it took a few iterations and walking away from it for a bit to be able to move forward on a design. I think it will work out pretty good. Long way to go. Then all the wiring for remote mount of winch control box.
Not decided on paint color yet. black is easy, or could go with a silver like rear bumper to match the bright work. Or even charcoal like the links. Plan D is body color, either wintergreen or lime if/when I paint the whole truck.
 
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rattle_snake

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Made another trip out to the sand dunes. Had to get a new paddle tire, the CST/Maxxis Surge was only available option. Although it is the same size (110/100-19) the height is significantly taller, and even with axle at 95% back tire has no room on swing arm. Damaged mud flap within first few minutes so had to removed mud flap.
Last trip I struggled with ruts, and launching off cliffs when riding out of them. So this trip I stayed in the groove and worked on navigating through them under power with weight on pegs. All was going well until the front end washed out at about 25-30, landed on my head and filled helmet full of sand. No damage to rider or machine.
:)
It was windy so the dunes were actually smoother and more crisp. So lots of wrecked machines towed back all day with smashed-in front ends. The wind erases the ruts and can make one have to pick their own way through the hazardous terrain....

Got to evaluate camping audio system v3 in it's natural habitat, significant improvement over the last. I was impressed with both bass output in open environment and overall sound quality. The angle the speaker hang at was off though, as they are about 7 feet up off the ground and were pointing up into the air. So I reworked the boxes, rotated the driver and moved the strap/handle to get the orientation I wanted. XLR is now on the bottom.
ACtC-3elORT4HX6HCiprKZoK7cnZUcWp-LPkowxz89WpUHlLKqB4gd7p2r7bjfZvd7cdsWCkffVJpZ-FvcORRkJOKN9d4tUl3JqFNND1Fceq3tD6d0LcXdwwzuy4_6FoxcrFKxhSteOtgGpPgtTeLus3Hkkz=w513-h684-no


I moved the mattress over slightly to make a home for the sub. It can be used in this location as well as storage going down the road.
ACtC-3epUo0xn13abpYPfDPUCJNEiDl7DeDwpFzxAeNsmN8QdcmchW4eckQINy9arcFeiMjUiTrogtWxZ7XGtmLeL-NMPnFT2gDZaMi3CRoWOC_q7ZV3BsC06uN3xMFQ9dK2P_wT0HXvtbhaIxiGTXYKlEqc=w910-h682-no
 
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rattle_snake

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Creeping along on the bumper project. Popped the front side panels off to build the mounting plates. The frame had some odd hexagonal holes, so I filled with some DOM for a 1/2" bolt.
ACtC-3cv8Woc7jyAQgzvOPWXrl7dSL5EHtpwspD5VPE8hYvZAaXOIdhftHoahm2UDg_TZsHaQzTOh60l7j5lW5p8oydYbj_MZXHG0FLFuT-LWYWuRwMOQQXj9wgZvohHjfiyCP2bAyg5YFTxiMa6OqmUo3AI=w910-h682-no


Built and fit mount plates to frame with provision for 4 bolts on each side.
ACtC-3e23TeDWZj6pvnuICumdxGQI-gDU8-uBGI7Xcp0WOXQUEVxy7qQx_HuhgNmKXQuaoqL6FeWK6zsx9BhJ3k5BeyZaOvgrOLRYHzBpZlKYJfwB8aAF8FTy3Njcdib-667-vplNSTh8lPZjIW0djX_SpT1=w910-h682-no


Added another panel on the bottom side and decided on a design for the ends.
ACtC-3csr0HrbFfJMTPPjNfYhEomyAnKhRj-qzavRB1T2gYhID08Np0r-TD7YB3bevjJo5LBrCTRUoB7isWS3QP7Nw7xC6AIpyfOPwEiHG4oKAAB71Q75LaicYSfTTeZ_1BIOzR-LoRyVjKtxxmcwsUqva1-=w512-h682-no


ACtC-3eohseFfSd_dDInmBOPzLm8TJ0DQnVxbG3gBeC3DDefUnLgz0Wx2mnAw2VK2tJAANJWZMkdXn6EqmWdORiWdnZ9Pa34soqxzZ1Wy1R62xGiI92gXuu7aRhFUe_pMHARwiYS-tg7cAXmNTwgw-5RZNId=w910-h682-no
 
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rattle_snake

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With bumper ends done last item to fit while on the truck was the winch itself. I wanted it sitting level and not have bolts heads protruding through the belly, so devised some mounting rails out of 2x2 0.25" wall square tube. Once I was confident with placement I removed the bumper from the truck to complete on the table. The belly plate has corresponding holes drilled for bolt head access.
ACtC-3fmj9gwl_9NUAl3nmUAC2r7Wt88hdaW7QHicgCneYFleX6TSoX71T_03BYFln2cGk4wqXaNoUxaWUpEUElMlH2o44yhHLzsjiuS8JxYGUfj0vr6J844pX_maZApHjsZZ8LHTQdrm0d_Z43znVAL2NH-=w1063-h797-no


Cut some holes for Ruff Stuff shackle mounts with the plasma.
ACtC-3eksWvc2JNVkWw7nDpkAbY333oo6JNfvXlQOX9DQVFeRukmqXwhJ4rYEmQwJH1796KeW8mL9ppLSRpuI_oRj08S7NwNtz_GcCSC-j7Py3uAxPAfMKdFRuwecnka-y_zliirHcMp3AhC5NaM4vYJBrtA=w1063-h797-no


Then a hole for fairlead. The winch is mounted with M10 socket head cap screws so the holes didn't have to be huge for a hex socket. Need to find some 3/8 square nuts to replace the communist fasteners, as they are the only ones on the truck.
ACtC-3ckHtitMEwpzbcfAdYVGPozzY02i7XRNEI3bhgSuTwohDua0GDiJS6pvFzEY54iwLL-Ul10vRwJ-lUTErvEeXLcXnJTL4SFh3xDrPhp38OZ5kh9JGUzvgBJkCUr0oYL-hFy8Co0OJyIzS1HSQqAbUrX=w1063-h797-no


Final gusset plates cut to tie belly to wing bottoms. Ready for final weld/warp and grind.
ACtC-3cWWH6jh1vsqzgeUKOqgyi8sTuF0uQtaBgYMMcGWYlr6SDgqY-MvKC-_0i6Oec0LaGQKQRB2Q9lA2g6Oq1a_YWXID42ZXak21TF7aX6Jy-g2MWTa7690cyJy6V4wDpiinUVLSMRq2eBjnhNAgtTKohT=w1063-h797-no
 
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rattle_snake

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To avoid excessive grinding, I tried to not overfill the corner joints. Ended up a bit short and had to touch up a few places. Then a long session with grinders until hands were numb.
LC8KUOF7BeUivMNSIBFMJPtzp=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

I refrained from welding all the inside seams, didn't seem like it would add any value. I considered adding gussets from frame plates to shackle mounts, but I didn't think it was necessary. All **** joints were beveled and welded on both sided.
I did over-weld anyhow and warp the whole thing like I always do.
UTzLcPs7CPWrdoUio7RMEeFdr=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Drilled 3 more 1/2" holes in each side of the frame. Tried not to mangle the frame itself and waste time modifying just to modify.
9AA29vfnuI9DwSbNUWdHyPaDEz=w598-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Then one last test fit on the truck before paint. Using the spacers to leave gaps all around worked out well and bumper goes on easy. Pop in the eight 1/2-20 bolts and hit 'em with the impact.
Did I succeed in not making it overly tight? No of course not, can't hardly get a finger in between the bumper and body anywhere, but lines line up nicely.
PCm25AykPYY9zHTV1izmnDvtF=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Tried to keep final finish and paint prep simple, as it is just a bumper on an old truck. Going to get rock chips and, scratches and modified at some point. So just rattle can black on the inside and silver on the outside. Half hour later on the truck for pics.
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Probably paint the fairlead to match so it blends in a bit more.
uOT9gbTpoDbE7F-cjmWl26be3=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

I feel like I achieved my goal of compact, with the sheet metal mods to tuck it in. Went back and re-adjusted bumper angle up a bit and corrected angle of the left marker light, well because.
FfKa5Vud3AeKw4ut_o2dJsMEs1=w598-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Should have made the opening a bit narrower in both sheet metal and bumper, but it came out OK.
aCx2oFNE5RHmW_9XpOALn20g8=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Next step is wiring, build longer cables for remote solenoid location.
 
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rattle_snake

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That turned out freakin' awesome Justin.
Thanks Mike. I'm pretty happy with it. Glad I took the time to try several designs in cardboard.
I agree with Mike, that is top shelf!
Can't really buy a winch bumper for 50 yr old truck so had to make one...
I would say you “nailed it!”
Thanks Duker!
Agreed bumper is very well done.
There were a few mishaps now displayed for all to see on the internet:)
I love that truck so much.
It's slowly becoming what I had imagined years ago when I bought it. One thing at a time.
Looks great, you really go it tucked in nice and tight!
A bit too tight, goal was a bit more clearance everywhere but it shrunk somehow. :dunno: I imagine you can relate.
 

Bodj Built

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Bumper looks so good! One recommendation, and this is something I did on my silverado bumper, is to make an attachment from the back of the clevis to the frame horn somehow. Otherwise if you need to give a little yank, the plate will bend outwards. Aside from that, super nice.



I'll include a picture of my brace here in a second, along with how I remote mounted the solenoid box

IMG_3355.jpgIMG_3392.jpg8B8F5065-845C-4A32-9363-6012A93C7778.jpg

Guess I didn’t get a picture of the bracing. I’ll crawl under the truck later and try to snag one
 
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rattle_snake

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Last step was winch wiring. I remote mounted the solenoid so cables to winch motor needed to be extended. Wire is 2 ga and lugs are 4 ga 5/16 wide style. Why the mis-match? Because they fit nicely and 2 ga lugs are way loose in this particular brand of lug and wire. Used hex crimp for robust connections. This wiring is larger gauge and shorter overall circuit length than what was supplied with the winch.
fs1UDvZHY7KsFu7X5aOL54ow3=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Mounted solenoid box below battery which allows short runs of wiring. The connection for the wired hand controller is on the top.
PyLTjH014x7ekuuWnqy5qkpk_j=w598-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Winch is connected directly to battery with minimum length leads. Why battery? Because even with big alternator (230A) current is still coming out of battery to support load drop. When winch is heavily loaded, the alternator is out of voltage regulation.
LFHueN0bYJ-LGw7KzNQ-ZQaUe5=w598-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg

Just enough room to connect motor wiring, not sure why it was made so snug..
fdVe39gzLy3Rh_evX7h9jDCzX=w1063-h797-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Bumper looks so good! One recommendation, and this is something I did on my silverado bumper, is to make an attachment from the back of the clevis to the frame horn somehow. Otherwise if you need to give a little yank, the plate will bend outwards. Aside from that, super nice.

I'll include a picture of my brace here in a second, along with how I remote mounted the solenoid box

Guess I didn’t get a picture of the bracing. I’ll crawl under the truck later and try to snag one

Thanks for the feedback. I considered doing just that, got lazy I guess. horizontal brace transverse from frame bracket to clevis mount. I can see if it is side loaded enough it would deform the face.
 

Bodj Built

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Thanks for the feedback. I considered doing just that, got lazy I guess. horizontal brace transverse from frame bracket to clevis mount. I can see if it is side loaded enough it would deform the face.

Don't get me wrong. I absolutely love it and think it turned out great. Which is why I made the recommendation. Mine is just a piece of plate running from the back of the clevis to the frame mounts. Yours would be a triangle. It would put that triangle plate in tension, which would be plenty strong.

Keep up the clean work!
 
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rattle_snake

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Don't get me wrong. I absolutely love it and think it turned out great. Which is why I made the recommendation. Mine is just a piece of plate running from the back of the clevis to the frame mounts. Yours would be a triangle. It would put that triangle plate in tension, which would be plenty strong.

Keep up the clean work!

Understood, appreciate the feedback. I respect you capabilities and experience on this sort of thing, thanks.

Awesome bumper build justin. That's a sweet bumper sir.
Thanks Jim!
Bumper looks awesome!!!!!! :thumbup:
Thanks Steve!
 
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rattle_snake

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Moving forward on 72 Ford A/C system. For some reason I've been avoiding it. I drug all the **** out of storage but it has just sat for 3 months on my workbench. Usually I keep my bench clean and void of anything that is not an 'active project'. I hoped that the clutter would motivate. Not so much as I build a bumper instead.
I guess it is because each piece has a road block of some sort, so no easy progress on any aspect. Although I had the system working, almost every component had some type of problem.
-All wiring burned out; fuse block, fan switch, A/C function switch
-Fan motor bearing shot (hence why all wring was damaged)
-Defrost duct missing
-All foam and seals shot, so heater core overwhelms A/C. disconnected hoses, no heat. heater valve shot.

And with engine swap, need to build a new compressor bracket, but the comp clutch contacts the fan. Need to decide on solution for that before building bracket, although the bracket has to be adjustable somewhat. Can't move fan forward, as there is no room between radiator. So have to modify the crank pulley or move all the drivetrain back to allow fan spacer. Can't buy a 1/4" fan spacer, so have to make one. Can get a 1/2" spacer, but can't move motor that far. There are pulley shim kits that I could stack, but that is cheesy. Tried to cut down crank pulley in lathe, but my lathe is too small.

The condenser doesn't fit in between trans cooler and grill, so grill mods and mount brackets will need to be built. The drier was mounted where the coil over tower is now, so need to find a new location and build a bracket. This will require new hoses to be made, or maybe a combo with hard lines.

I did put in provisions for wiring upgrades. I ran a dedicated 30A circuit for fan motor so current doesn't go through the main harness. Converting clutch control circuit to low current, just driving a relay to the EFI system. But EFI is active low logic so added inverter, and EFI has end control on A/C clutch.

So I started on rebuilding the HVAC box in the cab, gathering parts. Factory A/C parts are hard to find and expensive, so I repaired what I had. Fan switch also does A/C clutch control. Medium speed didn't work at all, high was intermittent. I pulled switch apart and cleaned contacts. Had to reshape the wiper to get robust operation.
jKAjpO96z6NnmhmSv7ZTskGT3c=w908-h681-no?authuser=0.jpg

The system has a switch to lock out compressor clutch when not in A/C mode that is actuated with one of the cables. It was also burned out due to the inductive nature of the clutch coil. When A/C is shut off, the magnetic field collapses and the stored energy produces damaging high voltage/current in the circuit. This switch will become isolated behind a relay, and relay protected with a 'flyback' diode.
Tfgnbq6sN3bKboDvzB6YsP2Noj=w908-h681-no?authuser=0.jpg

The heater core is the last item to come out of the assembly, making it the worst thing to have to service. It wasn't leaking, but I pressure tested it and cleaned it.
OTvFtlenYA2BtfNugm3O7QvOFC=w511-h681-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

OutlawDrifter

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What compressor are you using Justin? The OEM 400lb unit?

Could you substitute a Sanden 508 or a Sanden 7176(this is what I have in the Z28, and will be putting in the '49)? More compact package, better compressor for R134a...
 
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rattle_snake

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Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,194
Location
Chandler, AZ
The 72 factory A/C system was a retrofit into the space available and not the best solution. One aspect I wanted to improve was isolating the heat from the cool in at least 3 ways
-improved 4 port heater hose bypass valve
-Thermal insulation between cores
-Sealing heater core from low pressure side of fan assembly.

The heat side blend door seal was poor at best. If it leaks, air is drawn across the heater core and dilutes AC effectiveness. The goal is to get the door to seal with the limited amount of force the cable and linkage system can apply. Tried a few different types of gasket material to find one with the right crush. Since one seal edge is on the hinge (terrible design), it bunches up the seal in the pinch zone and prevents the opposite side from even touching, so I contouredthe foam with roloc disc to get a nice fit.
The OEM seal design on the cool side door is also poor at best, but I don't care and left bare with no gaskets. Why? because the heater core provides plenty of BTUs and A/C can effectively be shut off. I don't care if air leaks across evaporator as it get pulled into fan. The result of leakage is just recirculating in cab air in heat mode.
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But the real issue was that the linkage between the complementary heat and cool doors was too long, resulting in the heat door not being able to close all the way. So I shortened the linkage and adjusted the switch contact. This makes the heat door the assembly travel limit instead of the cool door.
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Last step was some bubble insulation on the metal division wall between the cores. You can see here how the factory retrofit results in heat function pulling outside air only and A/C is recirculate only.
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