rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

If you want you’re welcome to my mastercool set to try.

I've got the Eastwood set you could use, but it has to be done on the bench (off the truck).

Thanks for the offers. Next time I do a big job I'll have to invest or borrow......

I have used the Eastwood "deluxe" flaring tool set with success. It was pricey, but very nice to use. Clamps in vice for secure work.

Justin, decades ago I fought with properly flaring fittings which resulted in leaks and failure points. I will admit, some of it was me being new to the tubing game but I found early on the benefits of a nice quality flaring tool. I kind of went off the deep end when I was building street rods, race cars and sand rails and ended up buying several so now making flares is a joy and one I am very confident in when plumbing vehicles.

Another vote for the Mastercool hydraulic flaring tool. I wouldn't be without it. The other part of the process that helped me immensely was this Eastwood brake line deburring tool. A small inner and outer chamfer makes all the difference. I bought all the accessory dies for the Mastercool. Well worth the price.

You guys are not helping, some of us have a tool addiction. Shopping flare tools now..

 

[rattle_snake]

Reflared both ends of both front brake lines. Squared/deburred and used a bit of grease. Used vice and additional clamp on both sides of the tool itself, and had no issues with tube slipping. Was able to get decent double flares without leaks.




Although the previous line I redid flares on started leaking. Got it to stop but need to bleed and test.
Added a piece of flat bar above Tee mount to secure transmission cooler lines.

 

[rattle_snake]

Sleeved chassis harness in new location. Waiting on some 5/8" clamps and more 1/2 sleeve to finish.

 

[zmotorsports]

You guys are not helping, some of us have a tool addiction. Shopping flare tools now..

That's what we're here for Justin.... Trying to do our part by having you infuse the economy with more green.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes, well you specifically are responsible for multiple tool purchases. Tools I didn't even know existed until reading your thread, then I had to have them.


I've been slowly cleaning and consolidating things in my tool boxes, so I have room for additions.
Last was electrical related stuff, crimp fittings. Threw out a bunch of stuff I won't ever use.

 

[ntsqd]

Years ago my mentor in more exotic vehicles introduced me to these: https://www.grobetusa.com/inside-ou...side-dia-x-1-4-cutting-length-item-no-33-749/ He claimed that using them was the only way to get consistent, leak-free on the first try double and bubble flares. That is the smallest that they make so he would carefully adjust it to work on 3/16" tubing.

I have found that those are not a requirement, but the consistent depth and uniformity of the ID & OD chamfer that they produce is.

I've been trying out Cupro-Ni tubing on my latest project. I've yet to double flare it (I will soon), but it 37° flares in the Rolair (?) tool beautifully. It also doesn't seem to work harden quite as fast as steel tubing so if you need to, ahem..... adjust the position of a bend it works fairly well. I also found that Summit is carrying the spiral SS tube protector stuff and have been learning about how to install it too.

 

[rattle_snake]

Doing an addition to the shop audio system. Adding a pair of 10" woofers, amp and another crossover. Need something to fill that empty space above the A/C and between the subs. Bought a used QSC GX5 that is now running the subs and will use the older QSC USA1310 for the new 10s. db cross overs will be reconfigured for mono 3-way. To finish out the rack I swapped in some longer rails that extend to the fridge and bought a pair of 2U 19" rack mount drawers. They replace a 2U shelf and fill the gap that was present before. Moved Dewalt chargers to bench. The drawers should free up some toolbox space, which may lead to purchasing more tools.


Need an enclosure for the woofers, so started construction of a box for both woofers together. 1 cuft each, seal and divided. Sloped baffle that will be the bottom, hung from ceiling like the others. Sloped baffle gives it some more character and reduces standing waves inside enclosure. Woofers are Dayton PA255-8 and will have a 3 down point at 62 hz. Using no fasteners, just glue. Reinforced the corners with a triangular strips.


clamped the router into the outdoor vice, to make a quick stationary router.


Lots of clamps and appropriate wedges to glue on the baffle trim ring.


Rolled the corners with router and sanded down for primer,

 

[rattle_snake]

Took some pics of the rock light setup. The lux system put out more than I thought. Placement is key to reducing the shadows around the tires.

 

[LXCam]

That's a hell of alotta effort just to work on your tan in the middle of the night Justin. But hey man, whatever gets your rocks off.

 

[rattle_snake]

Price was right, free

How much ******** night wheeling they would be actually useful for, not sure. Will be great for camping and looking cool in the mall parking lot.

 

[rattle_snake]

Trans in the '72 Ford has started to intermittently flare on 2-3 shift. Load and throttle position don't seem to matter. Frustrating to say the least.
Contacted US shift and they suggested to clear and redo the self learning. A short search found that 2-3 flare is known issue on 6R and is typically a solenoid or 2. Solenoids are in valve body that is accessible through then pan. Seemed redundant to put in the temp sensor/bung in the pan but it doubles as a drain. Will try re-learn and go from there.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Always something! Hope the re-learn works out. On a positive note, at least the trans doesn't have to come out, to change the solenoids!

 

[LXCam]

I thought you installed a programmable trans controller?. Have you tried lock and it still flares?.

 

[rattle_snake]

Yes fortunately it is not likely a clutch pack. 6R has no band clutches. I don't think it is line pressure related either.

It has a aftermarket controller, US shift Quick6 (the only one). Not sure what you mean by 'lock'.
Can manually 2-3 shift with same result. The flare is typically a timing issue between the solenoids. Solenoid timing is not fully user adjustable parameter, although you can change 'shift firmness'. guess I could fart with that.
If a solenoid timing has drifted with age/use the self learn may compensate. but if it's intermittent the problem it won't solve.

So far ignoring it is working well for me. Was hoping to get it out in the desert before I blow apart the front suspension again for sway bar.

 

[LXCam]

Lock the converter (to rule out converter slip and maybe line pressure loss) but increasing shift firmness is close enough to test it out.

If anything, chirping those big meats will at least get you extra man card points

 

[rattle_snake]

The converter is already locked in 2nd before flare. Almost feels like a shift when converter locks in 2nd.

Big meats don't chirp they bark or howl!

 

[LXCam]

Big meats don't chirp they bark or howl!

Even better!

 

[rattle_snake]

Moving along on the speaker box project. Next is paint. Box is going to get dusty, dirty and not cleaned like the others, so waste of time to strive for a piano finish. But I'm forced to try anyhow haha. Put down two coats of OG Kilz primer with a 1/3 of a foam roller to seal the porous MDF. Roller creates al lot of orange peal, spray would be better but I'm too lazy to clean the gun. Only 2 sides will be visible, so I sanded all 6 and kept going until everything was smooth.



Then attempted to rattle canned the recessed part of the baffle red. Problem is, the red I have used on everything is rustoleum, so the can immediately clogged and went into the trash can. Opened another (must have back up(s) of such as ****** product) and finished it out.

 

[ntsqd]

"Only 2 sides will be visible, so I sanded all 6....."
THE quote of the morning!

fwiw MISF calls those lights "Malibu Lights" and they're great though perhaps a bit bright for walking around the truck in camp.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks. yes I can't help myself.

I can run only the back 2 of the 8 for camping so it won't be super bright. Didn't snap a pic of that.

 

[rattle_snake]

Stole idea here on GJ to use hardener with acrylic paint. It worked very well speeding up process. At 60F and low humidity it was dry to touch in less than a hour and could be handled after 2 hours. Used some flat black paint I had on hand.


Mixed hardener in at 1/8. Didn't spray well so reduced 15%. Sprayed 3 coats with HF HVLP in my '24hr spray booth'. Daylight would be nice but this is how life goes.


Result were decent. Would have chosen satin or semi-gloss, but flat goes with the theme. I installed terminal cups so it could sit without touching paint.


Doing a grill just for aesthetics. Had some expanded steel in my lurking in my stash so cut a chunk and bent the edges. Used press on the short ends and went old school on the long sides. Sandwiched between heavy wall rec tube and table, bend, hammer and so on.


Test fit to get a feeling how it would look. It will sit mostly flush with outer trim. Planned to paint but may just clear coat.


Need to get some more fiberglass to dampen and come up with a cool and creative mounting solution. Still haven't had a good enough idea come to mind

 

[FullRaceMerc]

Stole idea here on GJ to use hardener with acrylic paint. It worked very well speeding up process. At 60F and low humidity it was dry to touch in less than a hour and could be handled after 2 hours. Used some flat black paint I had on hand.


Mixed hardener in at 1/8. Didn't spray well so reduced 15%. Sprayed 3 coats with HF HVLP in my '24hr spray booth'. Daylight would be nice but this is how life goes.


Result were decent. Would have chosen satin or semi-gloss, but flat goes with the theme. I installed terminal cups so it could sit without touching paint.


Doing a grill just for aesthetics. Had some expanded steel in my lurking in my stash so cut a chunk and bent the edges. Used press on the short ends and went old school on the long sides. Sandwiched between heavy wall rec tube and table, bend, hammer and so on.


Test fit to get a feeling how it would look. It will sit mostly flush with outer trim. Planned to paint but may just clear coat.


Need to get some more fiberglass to dampen and come up with a cool and creative mounting solution. Still haven't had a good enough idea come to mind

Looks good. I might have missed it, but do you have any ports out the back?

 

[ntsqd]

Thanks. yes I can't help myself.

I can run only the back 2 of the 8 for camping so it won't be super bright. Didn't snap a pic of that.

Next trip I'll be trying out the M12 Fuel battery powered 12VDC LED warm white Xmas light string for camp lighting. Years ago one of the guys brought a tiny inverter and string of these on the annual "Guy Trip". They make the most best all around camp lighting that I've seen so far. Apparently re-powering kid's Barbie Jeeps and similar with Milwaukee M12 batteries is a really big thing. Big enough that battery adapters can be had off Amazonian Barbie Jeep Supply. From there you're just some 5mm plugs/sockets and a couple ****-splices away from having a system.

 

[rattle_snake]

Looks good. I might have missed it, but do you have any ports out the back?

No this is a seal enclosure with a higher Q of 0.9x The ported version would have to be 3x as large to get a decent Q/response. Cabinet would have to be 7 cu ft which is huge and really heavy. Would need lots of internal bracing.

Ported boxes do have improved low frequency response and output, but in this case it's not helpful. The subwoofers will handle the low end. The 10's will be filtered on both sides, 60 Hz-300 or something like that. The new 10" woofer are efficient don't need enclosure gain.

 

[FullRaceMerc]

No this is a seal enclosure with a higher Q of 0.9x The ported version would have to be 3x as large to get a decent Q/response. Cabinet would have to be 7 cu ft which is huge and really heavy. Would need lots of internal bracing.

Ported boxes do have improved low frequency response and output, but in this case it's not helpful. The subwoofers will handle the low end. The 10's will be filtered on both sides, 60 Hz-300 or something like that. The new 10" woofer are efficient don't need enclosure gain.

Gotcha. Sounds good.

 

[rattle_snake]

Didn't get much shop time this weekend but got a bit further on speaker box. Had to decide on a mounting scheme before anything else went in box, drilled four 1/2" holes in the corners that align to uni-strut hole spacing. Installed carriage bolts from inside with sealer, so a stud on the top to attach whatever. Then a blankie of pink panther fiberglass on the walls.


Then the drivers. Painted baffle helps the gaskets seal. Instead of drilling blind holes I put a dab of sealer on the back side.


Then final fitment of the grill. Wasn't happy with bare metal looks so primed and painted gloss black to stand out from the flat.


Went through different mounting hardware but can't decide on a scheme. Clevis, rod end, chain, cable, not sure....

 

[PugetDude]

Speaker looks great, Justin.
Paint the expanded metal gloss black and it will "disappear". You'll look right through it.
We do that with machinery guards all the time.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks Scott. After paint I was doing final fitment (with a hammer) and smacked my hand on the edge of the expanded metal edge. Made quite a mess, not going to post pictures of that though. Two other fingers with bandages at this point. Slow learner I guess.


Hooked up the box and farted around with amp tuning. Configuring the crossover as a 3-way (cascaded filter scheme) wasn't going to do what I wanted. Goal is to have the subs and woofers work together, as apposed to separated by the filters. Changed to two, 2-way filters per channel. This allows the subwoofer to have a dedicated low pass frequency setting (<70 Hz), and the high pass unused. Subs go down to 20 Hz so don't want subsonic/low cut filter. The woofers and main speaker share the second filter (<200 Hz to woof, >200 Hz to mains) and use a low cut at 30 Hz. So both the subs and woofer output overlapping bass frequencies, but with different limits on both ends.
To achieve this both 2-way filters need an input signal so bought some 'Y' XLR cables. But I bought the wrong flavor, and impatient, so swapped the ends from some other cables to get what I needed. Some more tuning and system is doing what I want now.


Tidied up the wiring with some sticky wire clamps. Untangled and removed some unused ****.


Continuing with industrial/motorhead theme, I made a speaker cable assembly out of a piece of 3/8 air hose and added to the bundle with the others. Finished with some bananas plugs but considering Speakon for amp side

 

[Boosted1]

Thanks Scott. After paint I was doing final fitment (with a hammer) and smacked my hand on the edge of the expanded metal edge. Made quite a mess, not going to post pictures of that though. Two other fingers with bandages at this point. Slow learner I guess.


Hooked up the box and farted around with amp tuning. Configuring the crossover as a 3-way (cascaded filter scheme) wasn't going to do what I wanted. Goal is to have the subs and woofers work together, as apposed to separated by the filters. Changed to two, 2-way filters per channel. This allows the subwoofer to have a dedicated low pass frequency setting (<70 Hz), and the high pass unused. Subs go down to 20 Hz so don't want subsonic/low cut filter. The woofers and main speaker share the second filter (<200 Hz to woof, >200 Hz to mains) and use a low cut at 30 Hz. So both the subs and woofer output overlapping bass frequencies, but with different limits on both ends.
To achieve this both 2-way filters need an input signal so bought some 'Y' XLR cables. But I bought the wrong flavor, and impatient, so swapped the ends from some other cables to get what I needed. Some more tuning and system is doing what I want now.


Tidied up the wiring with some sticky wire clamps. Untangled and removed some unused ****.


Continuing with industrial/motorhead theme, I made a speaker cable assembly out of a piece of 3/8 air hose and added to the bundle with the others. Finished with some bananas plugs but considering Speakon for amp side

That's a cool idea for the garage!

 

[rattle_snake]

Finished out the audio expansion project. Last step was a mounting scheme. Decided to use clevises to make a link, so needed some type of pin attachment. Uni nuts are female 1/2-13 and the studs on the box are male. Used some DOM and threaded hardware to make the required conversions. Coupling nuts went into the lathe to clear clevis constraints. Was quicker to use bolts and cut head off than thread round stock.


A three link system made more sense than four. I had already puts studs in all the corners, abandoned the rear pair and added a modified 1/2" lag bolt to secure into the center divider.


Threaded some 1/2 rod to make links. Had difficulty getting started straight, may just buy some studs.


Ready to hang


Had a friend help carry the beast up ladders and get it hung up.


Farted with some system tuning. Plan to break out the mic to fine tune. The additional power and cone area did raise max SPL level a noticeable amount. Full throttle is now at pain threshold, so it seems that should be enough. For now.

 

[rattle_snake]

Never heard back from Rockford CEO about audio equipment for the '72 Ford, no big deal.
Wife got a 'come get your stuff' call so turns out I got hooked up after all. Sweet


Two 10" shallow Power subs, DSR-1 DSP, T750db mono amp, and a T400-ab 4-ch amp. Around $2500 retail. Plan to use DSP filters and four dedicated amp channels for door speakers instead of passive cross overs. Setting 1/3 octave EQ with mic will really make an improvement.


Going to wait to get new bench seat before installing anything or building a box.

 

[rattle_snake]

I wanted to get the '72 Ford out before going under the knife for the sway bar addition. Went on a quick one night camp trip. Has been a wet winter so many of the ravines had some water flowing. Desert is very green.


Did some wheeling around camp area. Some rocky washes and hill climbs. Brush and vegetation have been growing well and trails were narrow and scratchy. Lots of pinstripes on the new paint. Oh well that is the purpose. Steering system seems to have enough assist with front locked in the rocks.
The poser shot.


Gravel pit with some things to play on. Truck did well on all accounts. 100 mile trip 70-75 MPH with a few hours of off-roading got me 8 MPG. No exhaust drone, can hardly hear engine a highway speeds but wind noise on a pillar is annoying.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Get the trans issue sorted?

 

[Boosted1]

You are really getting the truck well sorted. I like it.

 

[rattle_snake]

Get the trans issue sorted?

No, ignoring for now. Intermittent and not really a big issue at this time. I think it had the issue from beginning, wrote it off as shift learning. Fix is relatively simple should it get worse to the point of clutch wear. Trying to leave **** alone and enjoy, instead of focusing on what is wrong.

The Engine has also been having some issues. Intermittently it will run at 15:1 AFR, which chugs and sounds bad. It did this as I was loading my camping gear out of the barn. I climbed in the engine compartment and checked vac lines and wiggled connectors. Fuel trim goes all the way rich but AFR is unchanged. Not sure I believe sensor, perhaps it is rich instead of lean.
Next restart and rest of trip was good. In the past I would have worried and perhaps cancelled. Now I just try to enjoy life knowing I can get help if needed.

You are really getting the truck well sorted. I like it.

Thanks Boosted. The old truck did well and met my expectations for ride quality and overall experience. Leaf spring upgrade made the rear suspension work very well. The 40s and flex allow it to go most places in 2wd. Low COG helps it feels stable on off-camber situations. Make the obstacles all most too easy.

 

[ntsqd]

"....wind noise on a pillar is annoying."
Can you elaborate? I'm pretty tired of the CTD cab's issues (1995) and in my dreams I'd find a 70's era SuperCab to transplant onto that truck.

 

[plain2car]

JUSTIN.....
....HOLY COW!!!....
That sums it all up right there!.....
beautiful job on ALL fronts!

 

[plain2car]

now! if only you could be convinced to help out a fellow member(s) on similar garage tasks!.... on a "pro bono" paid basis though.... ....

 

[rattle_snake]

"....wind noise on a pillar is annoying."
Can you elaborate? I'm pretty tired of the CTD cab's issues (1995) and in my dreams I'd find a 70's era SuperCab to transplant onto that truck.

should have capitalized A, as in A-pillar. The shape of the cab/ A pillar creates wind noise above 55 MPH or so. Not sure if there is a fix. The SS trim doesn't help.

 

[ntsqd]

Thanks! Deafening wind noise in a cross-wind is one of the CTD's issues. Sounds like I'd be trading one set of wind noises for another.