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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

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rattle_snake

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Thanks Steven.
I appreciate what you have shared already, and would like some more guidance once I start on door panels. Corner wraps noted. I used a screen roller tool to roll the grooves.

I'll share what I learned on diamond layout. 1st is to pick an aspect ratio and the size of the diamond can be scaled to anything. To get a space between the diamonds, the size can be scaled using parallel line width (aka height of the triangle). I used 1/8 or 1/16 per side. The top and bottom gap is not 1/8, but scaled up by SIN of the angle. I scaled the diamond patter (not the diamonds themselves) to the vertical space of the box. Then subtracted the vertical gaps to get the foam diamond sizes.
I marked the box in a grid of 1/2 diamond size, horizontal and vertical. This puts an cross at the 4 corners of the foam diamonds, and makes them easy to align. Same 1/2 size edge grid on foam, then draw the lines point to point, don't care what angle or spacing. I used a caliper to mark lines.

I found way to accomplish same in a way more complicated method.
 
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rattle_snake

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I picked up another guitar, an Ibanez lefty bass, used $150. Lefty stuff is harder to find. I've been enjoying playing the (righty) bass so it was time to get a lefty for consistency with the 6 string. The bass has 'active pickups', aka a 9v battery powered preamp inside the guitar itself. With the bigger amp and 10's it makes the right noises and vibes....
fkaDq6TuY_Vc90o1hNe8tqkA=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Wrangled the big heavy sub box into the cab to build a new set of enclosure mounts. The previous style came from below and would require removing the amps to get speaker box out, which is not acceptable to me. There are 2 bolts heads that protrude from the cab floor that fit into shallow blind holes in the box, so only the top needs to be secured.
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Used 10/24 riv-nuts in fuel tank channel to secure the box bracket.
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Ohmthis

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Wrangled the big heavy sub box into the cab to build a new set of enclosure mounts. The previous style came from below and would require removing the amps to get speaker box out, which is not acceptable to me. There are 2 bolts heads that protrude from the cab floor that fit into shallow blind holes in the box, so only the top needs to be secured.
Om-SGjkgqb-3yn5h0y7xFBZg=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Used 10/24 riv-nuts in fuel tank channel to secure the box bracket.
7Ac10E06tveb7dkLAaADsUKA=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
Justin, that is a very nice install. Do you like the sound?
 

plain2car

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justin, as mentioned the install looks really nice. how did you get matching material? did you buy extra when covering the seat? i think in a earlier picture in the background it "looked" like the front end was apart too??
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin, that is a very nice install. Do you like the sound?
Thanks. I have the basic wiring done but not much time on tuning it yet. The longer travel, extra sub and additional power do produce noticeably more SPL than before. Without any EQ, sound is tight and punchy.
justin, as mentioned the install looks really nice. how did you get matching material? did you buy extra when covering the seat? i think in a earlier picture in the background it "looked" like the front end was apart too??
The seat manufacturer had swaths of sample material on the web to order from. So I knew what it was exactly and bought additional fabric from another vendor.
And yes the front end was off to get motor/trans out for trans repair.
Justin, just getting caught up and have to say GREAT job on the subwoofer box. That thing is a work of art. :bowdown: :bowdown:
Thanks Mike!
 

Duker

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I picked up another guitar, an Ibanez lefty bass, used $150. Lefty stuff is harder to find. I've been enjoying playing the (righty) bass so it was time to get a lefty for consistency with the 6 string. The bass has 'active pickups', aka a 9v battery powered preamp inside the guitar itself. With the bigger amp and 10's it makes the right noises and vibes....
fkaDq6TuY_Vc90o1hNe8tqkA=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
Didn't realize you were a Lefty! My father is left handed and I have been tasked with disposing of his guitars... In the market for anymore? :)
 
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rattle_snake

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With sub enclosure complete, moved on to the lower end panels. Used 16 ga sheet metal because I had it (20 would be better) as the base material. Made a radius out of multiple bends in the break. Don't want any loose nuts so used riv-nuts to secure to cab and for amp rack.
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With very limited space I had to stack the amps which required some type of rack. Made a frame out of flat bar to offset the two amps so the controls are accessible. Made a custom die for the radius.
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Painted, wrapped and ready to install
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secured with 2 10-24 screw into riv nuts.
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Equipment installed and temporarily wired for testing.
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Built another panel for the left side.
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Next step was to create upper end cover panels. Not sure of my end plan but need to do something with the cab crease area above the box. Should have made the box 1/2 taller to hide, but now I have an opportunity for it to not be so plain. Started with another panel to cover the fasteners and blend in with the cab radius. Bent some 26 ga steel as a base, and added some 3/16 foam with curfs for curve. Guess I will see where the design goes.
9FQdRZir3RTdxF0UqYfOmTaQ=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Puttering along on the trim behind the seat. Picked a design and settled on how to secure. The first trim piece I made wasn't going to work, built another version that would with the upper trim plan. The end of the fuel tank channel stick out and the brackets make it worse. Trying to mate it to the upper piece flat on cab wall was a challenge. After initial radius I worked the metal to follow the contours and rolled the top edge with a hammer. The compound curves help hold it's shape.
To secure I tapped threads into sub box mount, and on other side riveted on a small extension to existing tab, with a riv-nut. Same 10-24 machine screws as everything else. Then added a strip of 3/16 foam so it isn't so plain, and wrapped it up.
pMNNhRDebhXjKPyIzSvA=w1284-h963-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Decided to make upper trip two pieces for ease of fab and fitment. Again a sheet metal base formed to cab contour, and foam strip on the bottom. Given the truck has a lot of shiny trim inside and out, it seemed fitting that I include in the design. Bent a piece of 1/8 x 3/4 aluminum to match. Sanded visible surface with a few grits of sandpaper and hit it with the buffing wheel. Plan secure to cab wall with a few oval or flat head machine screws in countersunk holes through both pieces.
I contemplated methods to hide all fasteners but choose to keep it simple and robust. The rest of the old truck is similar.
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Test fit minus the metal trim. Going to have an overlapping seam in the center that shares one screw.
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rattle_snake

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Almost done with behind the seat trim. Fab'd the left side pieces in same fashion, form metal and glue down some foam. break edges.
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To get the panel secured properly on sloped surface I welded a short standoff on the back side.
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Originally I wanted to use #8 flat head to secure the aluminum trim. Turn out my rivnut tool only goes down to #10. Same drill size. Went with 10-24 but shaved down the head to a more appropriate size to fit in the counter sink.
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Riv nuts for most everything so no loose nuts
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The center came out OK. Left side is a bit longer to overlap right. Beveled the ends of the aluminum to interlock and use only one screw. The longer sections of aluminum bow out a bit. Need to add more fasteners or try to bend for a preload.
e0y0Jiu9m1tPUExS03Pkw=w722-h963-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin, I have rivnuts and the setting tool down to 6-32 if you need them.
Thanks Scott, appreciate the offer. I have small riv nuts too (wait, that doesn't sound right..) and could have used some HW to set them, but I'm lazy and used the tool I have.

But reason for a tool purchase, have a need for a more compact version. Couldn't get my 16" tool into small spaces and used bolt/nut instead many times.
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rattle_snake

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Spent some time rewiring for the new audio system. Had to partially remove the seat and reroute wiring under floor to gain some length on power and signal cables. To further clean up, I reroute the power wiring for the ARB dual compressor and aux battery from inside the cab to directly into the cab corner cavity. Then moved the distribution block to the cavity as well to hide all the high current wiring.
Much more simple and tidy now.
Vdfi4d1GgRuCgXjJkAwPw=w722-h963-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

With added length the signal cable can be stuffed into the cavity below the inner amp to hide the bulky RCA connectors and splitters. Still need to install the digital signal processor which will require some more changes. But for now, phase 1 is complete.
guV5liJmLPKiywYN_sz_Q=w722-h963-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 

plain2car

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Justin.. nice install work.. I know you are a ford guy, but wondering (being that you are also a pickup fan) if you were planning on going to Dino's git-down this weekend? I was REALLY hoping to take my truck, but I picked a wrong time to install new gearbox and colunm rebuild :sneaky:...
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin, I found these in the corner of the race shop today and thought of you. They're going on a 1975 prerunner build, but I figured you'd get a kick out of them. They were crazy light.
Those are pretty slick, great for a race machine.
Justin.. nice install work.. I know you are a ford guy, but wondering (being that you are also a pickup fan) if you were planning on going to Dino's git-down this weekend? I was REALLY hoping to take my truck, but I picked a wrong time to install new gearbox and colunm rebuild :sneaky:...
No, going to Vegas this weekend. Have fun at the show!
 
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rattle_snake

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With tunes back in the truck, taking a break from it to handle the rest of life, including fleet maintenance.
Did oil change and general inspection on the wife-mobile, as I found it in the 'oil change required' state.
Got me thinking about the rest of the fleet so I went through the maintenance logs to find that most could use an oil change. Not from miles but just time. Cobra and motorcycle are next, ordered the fluids and filters. I have given up on buying oil and filters from walmart, it seems none of the stores have anything I need. Some have almost nothing of anything.
Lift makes the job much more tolerable.
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rattle_snake

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Took the Mrs. to Vegas for our 19th last weekend. I don't like the hard timeline flying imposes, so I drove the wife's explorer. It has a intermittent issue with right rear suspension bottoming out and the vehicle swerving left. Ford said loose spare tire. Uh no.
At 85 the rough sections of highway were really sketchy and car was all over the place. I inspected the RR suspension last week when it was on the lift and didn't find anything. I'm thinking the RR shock is shot, no damping causing bottom out, camber change, body roll, swerve left.
 

Mr.zippy

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Took the Mrs. to Vegas for our 19th last weekend. I don't like the hard timeline flying imposes, so I drove the wife's explorer. It has a intermittent issue with right rear suspension bottoming out and the vehicle swerving left. Ford said loose spare tire. Uh no.
At 85 the rough sections of highway were really sketchy and car was all over the place. I inspected the RR suspension last week when it was on the lift and didn't find anything. I'm thinking the RR shock is shot, no damping causing bottom out, camber change, body roll, swerve left.
Did Ford use an air system on those Explorers?
 
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rattle_snake

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Bike was due for oil change so rolled it into the shop for service. The rear end is lowered and can't get my usual drain pans under it, so I used a bike lift to raise it up and set the frame on a block. There are 3 drain plugs and using the jack itself blocks them.
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My shop assistant came by to inspect. 2 of the 3 drain bolts are blocked by the casting and don't allow a closed end wrench. Also too close to frame rail to use a socket. Bought wrong filter so had to make a trip to parts store. This time I remembered that you can only add 1/2 the oil capacity at a time to the oil tank before running the engine for a few seconds. Cleaned everything up and done.
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rattle_snake

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Cobra was up next for oil change. Order stuff and ready to go. Unfortunately on the drive home, the car developed a clunking sound after a 1st gear WOT pull. Vehicle speed related, not engine. Any gear including R. Poo. Car was going up on the lift anyhow, so time for inspection. Gave it a good visual inspection everywhere. Found the RF brake caliper banjo was leaking a bit, snugged it up. definitely from rear drivetrain. Couldn't see or feel anything out of line. Just turned 63k miles.

Sadly I had to drive in the rain a short distance (gasp, oh the horror) so step 1 was to clean up the underside a bit including the SS exhaust.
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pass side resonator has drug many speed bumps. No leak yet. This is after I cut up the h-pipe and clocked to tuck it up higher.
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I'd like an oil can for a lift but out of floor space to store it. I lower the car down close to pan on a cart, so it doesn't splatter all over.
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There is lots of stuff below the oil filter, so I use some tin foil to make a funnel-ish shape to divert the oil into the pan.
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Finished out the oil change and went for a test drive to listen some more. Then back into garage to think and make a plan. Next oil change is the dirt bike, and eventually the boat.
 

OutlawDrifter

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"Sadly I had to drive in the rain a short distance (gasp, oh the horror)..."

Justin, the rain probably caused the noise, after all, it is a Ford :dunno:

Hell, I have pictures (actual photo paper) of my Z28 south of Chadron, NE in a snow storm...beautiful picture by the way :LOL:


Edit: With those tires and your HP level, I would imagine even a lightly wet street can cause for some excitement :3gears:
 
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rattle_snake

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Helped a friend with his son's 2006 mustang on Saturday. Procharger installation stalled out for a year due to various reasons. I was able to figure out some roadblocks they had. Finish up vac/pcv plumbing. Installed intake.
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Car is on a 4 post, went underside to weld in an wideband O2 sensor bung in the exhaust.
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Pulled the fuel pump assembly to upgrade pump to a 315. Little outside of my friend or his son's comfort zone. Back in and down to gauge installs then startup precheck.
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rattle_snake

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Next was further inspection of the engine oil leak on my daughter's car. Racked the car and cleaned the whole underside, again. Found source of leak on the top of the back right side. Assume this is cam sensor and/or tensioner. Sensors themselves all seem ok.
bhMcUXF1gBBjSf2KT8mfg=w722-h963-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Cleaned the engine bay from the top again. Need to figure out how to fix.
Now that is is cool outside, made time to swap in a new window regulator into the suburban. Driver's rear this time. Whole door is rough, lots of broken plastic clips and bits. Like the others, maybe its a GM thing. :rolleyes:
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And after working on everyone else's junk, I did oil change on the dirt bike. All ready for another dune season.
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rattle_snake

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Spent part of Sunday cleaning and organizing in and around the shop and garage. Went through my junk up in the cabinets above benches. Leftover parts, some with little to no value, random materials. Cleared out about half of the space by disposal and organization.

The repeated conversation I had with myself:
Am I ever going to do anything with this? No.
Does it have any value? No.
Worth the hassle of listing for free? Hell No.
Why did I keep this? I don't know.
Throw it away? well....

@#$^%!

I have found that I have enough storage space if used intelligently. Some room in the various cabinets, even some empty drawers. Room for more tools I don't know I need yet. Everything looks the same, hence the doors and drawers.
 

ntsqd

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My own RoT is "If I were paying a mini-storage to store this could I have replaced it by now?" Assuming that I could find another one of whatever it is.
 
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rattle_snake

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I have the same conversation day in day out with my garage. Imagine it’s gonna be worse now I plan 3-4 days a week on this bronco and any other project that rolls into the garage.
Well when your bronco is 'done' you can offload all the extra parts. Or maybe keep them..
My own RoT is "If I were paying a mini-storage to store this could I have replaced it by now?" Assuming that I could find another one of whatever it is.
Sadly a lot of the 'stuff' isn't something I need or have any future plans for. 🤔

I struggle to **** can 'vintage' parts, useless or not.
I like to build stuff out of auto parts, so I have to keep the cool stuff. For something some day. Even if I find a good use, I want to save it for 'something better'.
I had a bunch of stock parts that were replaced by aftermarket goodies. I'll never reinstall. Most people who own same vehicle did same and already have the same stuff.
 
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rattle_snake

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For example, I kept these coil over 'shocks' from kid's quad. They don't actually function, don't move at all, yet have fake piggyback reservoirs. I replaced them with actual functioning shocks, but kept the imposters. I had wanted to use them on my GMG pellet smoker big tire chassis mods, but couldn't find them in the piles of junk. They magically popped up when I was downsizing my stash.
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Knocked out the lower bushing to fit over axle and made some simple upper mounts to work with existing fasteners.
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The coilovers did nothing for performance but go with the absurd theme well enough. Springs are even the right color. Glad I kept these...
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