rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[zmotorsports]

I do like those soft-sided bags, I may have to reconsider my current storage solutions in the 'burb and the Tundra.

You'll love the soft-sided bags Marc. I have found I prefer the smaller ones and divide tools up like pliers in one bag, screwdrivers in another bag, sockets and ratchets in another and each set of wrenches (SAE & Metric) in their own respective bags. I even have another for "specialty tools" that are unique to the Jeep and then a couple more with fasteners and other shop supplies that may be needed on the trail. Then all the bags go in my toolbox drawer in the back of the Jeep. When working on something on the trail or helping someone, I can pull out just the bag or bags that I need and they're easier to remove from the toolbox than one big bag. I also like that they don't tend to rattle or make any other noises for that matter.

Now in my truck I have two large bags, one for general tools including screwdrivers, pliers, wrenches, etc. and the other for the sockets. This isn't ideal but I don't carry as many tools in the truck as I do the Jeep plus I can easily transfer the tools bags from the truck over to the Camaro when we take it which saves on having to setup the Camaro with an entire other set of tools.

 

[rattle_snake]

.....having to setup the Camaro with an entire other set of tools.

Sounds like an excuse to buy more tools?

 

[zmotorsports]

Sounds like an excuse to buy more tools?

Agreed, however, it seems like a waste of money to load out the Sunday driver with the same as the truck and it's an easy swap when we take the car. Not that I don't like buying tools, just don't necessarily need to spend money that I don't need to.

 

[rattle_snake]

Understood. You have enabled me to buy many tools, just trying to give back, haha.

 

[rattle_snake]

Put together an order for air plumbing, 3 chucks. 4AN TPFE, but noticed that these products are only 3/16 ID. OK fine 6AN (5/16 ID), easy $100. Looked at DOT and metal push to connect. DOT hose is only rated to 180 F or so. Without tank or cooling loop it seems marginal. Not that much more for TPFE, fine. Just can't find a good location on left side for QD.

Laid out the hose setup and tried a few different configurations. Can reconfigure the various lengths however. Can pair either sides or fore/aft tires with the 2 hose assemblies. Didn't want one giant 4 tire setup as it is a lot of hose and a mess. If anything I would inflate the front slightly more than the rear, but never side to side difference. QD at front and back bumpers is a long run of tubing, clamps and so on. Interestingly the hose assemblies as-is can both reach the tool box when connected fore/aft. Simplest method is both QDs in the toolbox. Started to design a panel to mount them and on/off switch. Then realized I could just plumb right on compressor and pop a switch in the hole on the front. No hoses, no plumbing exit holes/seals in box. Changed order to just a few 6AN and 1/4"NPT fitting and done. All metal, short run, high flow into 'V' connectors. Why V? 'cause everything I have is V and similar price.



ARB twin is rated at 5 cfm at 30 PSI, which is max pressure I will inflate to. Given all 4 tires are being inflated at same time, the head pressure will only be a few psi over that of the tires. Pump works less, less heat, less current. The flow limit is the schrader valve, and in this configuration it's 1/4 of the restriction as one tire.

 

[rattle_snake]

Compressor has a right sized hole in good location


Cut control plug off (red pin on cable side is a plug with no pin..) and extended wiring to the switch. Had the exact 3 wires I needed.


Fits like it was designed for the purpose.


Secured compressor by bolting the pump to the plastic liner.

 

[rattle_snake]

A friend gave me a HF sand blast cabinet as he upgraded to a better unit. It needed some repairs, a light, lens and so on.


One leg was bent up pretty bad


Step one was to build a rolling base. Frame out of 1" square tube


Use some expanded steel I've had sitting around for a long time.


Painted and welded on some 3" casters




The casters and base added 5", so I cut 5" off each leg, and added a stop ot the bottom. Also hammered out all the dents and bends.
While each leg was off I installed riv nuts on the cabinet, as access to the nuts is non-ideal.


Set the cabinet on the base. Cleaned it up and hit a few sports with paint.
To do again, I would have make it 2" taller. I had the cabinet on some movers dollies, and it was too high. Now it is a bit low. Easy fix if I need to.


Next steps are the typical HF blast cabinet mods, then fill with media.

What is a good choice of media for blasting general purpose metal (rust car parts and such)?

 

[rattle_snake]

Wired up the ARB compressor this weekend.
Slimmed down the power harness. Cut off the dual 40A fuse holders, brought GND out of bundle at a different location.


I wanted to retain the ability to remove the bed without cutting wires. Given that the harness plug was on the comp end, I cut an oval hole that allows the plug to fit through. Riv nuts instead of sharp sheet metal screws poking through.


Made a cover for the wiring access hole.

Fits decent.


Power comes from existing high current wiring for audio amp. Had one spot left in distribution block. 60A manual reset breaker at battery.

Power wires into cab in same hole as the bed charging system. Used GND lug in cab as it was close, has a 2 ga wire to frame. (and bat to block. block to frame)


Compressor is secured with 4 M6 flange bolts. Used some spacer to level it out, which also helps airflow underneath.


Waiting on some more AN fittings. My 1st scheme didn't work out.

 

[ntsqd]

I've been using HF's version "Black Beauty" (coal slag), but now they don't seem to carry it. I have been getting the results that I want, just wish that it lasted longer. I guess that I'll be trying this next: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives

 

[555]

I've been using HF's version "Black Beauty" (coal slag), but now they don't seem to carry it. I have been getting the results that I want, just wish that it lasted longer. I guess that I'll be trying this next: https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/product/black-diamond-medium-blasting-abrasives

Northern Tool also carries coal slag blasting medium in 50 lb bags, I bought some fine grit a couple of days ago.

 

[burger]

I upgraded my HF blast cabinet with a Tacoma Standard Kit as well as their baffle box. Night and day difference! I also have a Dust Deputy before the Shop Vac.

 

[zmotorsports]

Nice install on the compressor and clean wiring job Justin.

As for blasting media, I've tried several over the past few decades from crushed walnut to aluminum oxide and I settled on the crushed glass about the last 20 years now. It seems to work as a good all-around blasting media on a wide range of materials. I buy it in 50 lb. bags from my local compressor supply house and use half a bag at a time. I used to go through it quite a bit when I was doing more restorations/street rod work but I don't use my blasting cabinet quite as much these days and the media lasts a long time before the edges get rounded off and it doesn't cut as well.

 

[ntsqd]

Northern Tool also carries coal slag blasting medium in 50 lb bags, I bought some fine grit a couple of days ago.

I didn't know that NT had any stores, so I looked them up. Closest one to me is 871 miles away in El Paso.
Shipping 50 lb bags doesn't seem very cost effective and there's a TS about 15 miles away. I'd definitely choose a local supplier for this.

 

[burger]

I use coal slag as well. Tractor Supply sells 50# bags of medium and fine Black Diamond media for less than $15 a bag.

 

[plain2car]

Justin, as always (in general) always nice work and coming up with really good (and effecient) ideas. I must say though... the truck with the shell reminds me an awful lot of the yellow matchbox truck from the '70's that had the rotating lion in the back!...
... well ...doesn't that bring back memories!! like the post if you guys know what I am referencing..

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks guys for the media info. Learning about the various modifications and upgrades, probably do a few before I fill and use it.

 

[rattle_snake]

Still waiting on some AN fittings but received enough to get basic setup going. The 90 out of the compressor is a swivel. Not really what I wanted, but it does take the force/leverage off the fitting as you have to hold the female end to plug in a hose.


Added a strap to the back side of the wire harness exit to help secure it.


And with compressor system complete, no need for the CO2 tank, and the 10# bottle mount can be occupied with a nitrous tank.

 

[nsula_country]

What is a good choice of media for blasting general purpose metal (rust car parts and such)?

I like the Coal Slag from Tractor Supply Co.

Black Diamond - Fine

CT

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks, looks like I'll try the coal slag from TS.

I was signed up to help my younger daughters high school (both kids in HS now, I must be 'getting old, er' ) marching band with props, instrument repair and so on. 1st task is hanging some go carts on the wall of a semi trailer (Why a HS band needs several box trucks and a semi I don't know). It has E-track on walls. I whipped up some heavy duty hangers using unistrut and e-track 2x4 mounts specific for the purpose. Will see how they work.



Blast cabinet is now getting leg extensions (another way of redoing my f-up) and planning mods like
-vac port baffle
-wall joint seal
-new gloves
-cyclone type media separator and plumbing
-lighting in all 4 corners
-wiring for lights, vac
-glass protection

will see how it works first, but beyond that is
-foot air control
-blow gun inside cabinet
-improved nozzle/pickup.

 

[burger]

The Tacoma kit I linked to was night and day difference and that is without hyperbole. Almost never clogs, much better media flow, less clouding. Worth every penny. Blasting time cut way down and larger flow eliminated that frustration with the suction line clogging. It also requires less sand in the reservoir so it’s easier to change between media or change out used up media.

If you haven’t already, caulk the **** out of the cabinet. I get very little dust out of mine. Most happens when I open the door.

Oh and yeah the gloves ****. I haven’t found any yet that hold up long term.

Add a lot of lights inside. I went flood light bulbs on either end. High watt Incandescent so the heat dries the sand. I don’t know that the bulbs actually dry the sand, but I read that it does on an Internet forum . At the very least they light it up well.

For the glass, I purchased a large pack of replacement screens. They ****. Eventually when my supply is gone I plan to use cut glass as I have read it holds up for an economical while before it’s used up.

 

[ntsqd]

Mine is a Skat cabinet and I've been using their gloves and glass protectors with decent results. I'm still on the first set of gloves that came with this cabinet. Usage is a couple times a month and the cabinet is just over 5 years old. I'm on my third or fourth glass protector. Aging eyes have me pulling the work up too close.....

Lighting, as supplied, *****. I'm about to install a sealed LED light bar. We'll see how well/long that works. Plan is to put it and the dust collector on a single switch. MISF uses two 100W+ floodlights in his homebuilt cabinet. Those heat that thing up pretty fast!

 

[Cane]

A few things I learned from spending way to much time running a blast cabinet in the late 80's....

Put a welding glove over the glove you use to hold the part.

Use a air gun to blow off the glass lense and to blow back thru the nozzle if/when it clogs.

Ground the cabinet and run a ground wire inside with a clip you can hold or clip on the part.

Keep your arms against the metal arm holes or you may get a shocking experience.

If/when the media hangs up in the hopper if you lean against the cabinet to pick the front legs off the floor them slam it to the ground will knock the media loose.

We made our own nozzles out of tool steel but we also had the heat treat ovens.

We ran glass beads so I don't have any experience with other media. Moisture was a problem even with glass.

 

[ntsqd]

Maybe not a good idea, dunno, but when the siphon tube clogs up I block the nozzle and give it a short blast. I don't have a blow gun inside the cabinet, but I'm liking that idea. Execution should be fairly simple. D'oh! moment there!

My old cabinet was particularly bad about bridging the blast media and the floor and wall at the cabinet show the signs of banging it around to knock stuff loose.

 

[rattle_snake]

Thanks for the tips.
I was going to buy the glass protector sheets. Do they work? better plan (like replace glass as needed)?

I stretched the legs back out. So on wheels it sits 4" higher than originally. Comfortable for me at 5'11''. Removed the torn gloves. Cleaned all the tape adhesive off the glass and removed the glass frame that was RTV'd to the top. Going to hose it out so it is clean enough to seal all the seams.

Decided to hold off on the cyclone seperator system for now. Get it working first, address any issues, then reconsider. No sure it will get enough use to justify cost/space/clutter.

 

[rattle_snake]

As another summer has set in, trees are growing fast and yardwork is needed. I struggle with my limited available time and how to use it.
As I get old(er) part of me wants to just call a landscape outfit and do something better with my time. Maybe they show up, maybe not. When exactly, unsure. Probability of coming back again slim.
Being cheap and particular about things, I don't want a mediocre job (aka not exactly how I would do it) done for a couple hundred bucks.

I have two mesquite trees that need 2-3 heavy prunings a year. For some reason I want the tree limb structure optimized at all times. Mesquite grow in a random mess and wind (50+ mph) breaks off the top each year. The outer edge sags to the ground and needs a hair cut like a teenager. Also have 3 orange trees that need upkeep. I have a corded pole chainsaw, and adapted a crappy hedge trimmer for the pole. Weight up high, hard on my back. So I use a manual pole saw in an attempt to keep up.

My compromise was to up my OPE tool game, saving time and money*. I'm not addicted to tools (tool addiction is for the Milwaukee guys).
Went with a cordless pole chainsaw and hedge trimmer combo. Got a package with 4 Ah bat and charger for same price and bare tools. Not the best as the motor weight is on the far end, but glad not to have to **** with multiple cords tangled in the cut branches.

But while I was there I spotted a 3/8 cordless ratchet I had seen used a lot on one of the car TV shows. In the cart it went. I know of several people who love their cordless bandsaw. Continuing with the time saving theme, I went ahead with it also.



The other big issue is disposal of the branches. It is difficult to get a landscaper to show up and remove. Trip to dump is 2 hrs and ***** in 110+ heat. Cutting everything into small enough pieces to fit in trash cans is time consuming, and can only dispose of small amounts at a time. Burning leaves a mess. Neighbor got a chipper implement for his tractor, PTO driven. Plan to try that for the few times a year I need it.

*Monetary gains from tool purchase are amortized over lifetime of tool

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Everything but the hedge trimmer(and possibly the bandsaw, thinking about replacing my HF floor model with a hand held and their new benchtop stand) is on my list for future expenditures, in Milwaukee red of course, because apparently I have an addiction

 

[FullRaceMerc]

I have that Dewalt cordless pole chainsaw. I love it. Having used a manual pole saw for years, the weight of the chainsaw takes far less effort compared to the work & time spent with the manual saw. I use a fold over rifle case to store & carry it.

 

[ntsqd]

I feel that the glass protector sheets are worth the trouble. I've taken to using Gorilla tape to adhere them because the thin double-sided stuff on those that I've been buying doesn't hang for very long.

With the cyclone separator you can likely use an existing shop-vac for dust reduction. My experience has been that this a needed function with both sand and with the coal slag. Not sure about with glass. Every blaster loaded with glass that I've used has had a dust extractor, but none were mine so I've never run w/o while using glass.

Build a fire pit for those nice evenings to sit outside, and use up your "firewood"?

Apparently I have an addiction problem too. I'm currently having trouble justifying the cordless soldering iron for the race/chase tool kit, but I'm confident that I'll find a good reason.

 

[nsula_country]

Everything but the hedge trimmer(and possibly the bandsaw, thinking about replacing my HF floor model with a hand held and their new benchtop stand) is on my list for future expenditures, in Milwaukee red of course, because apparently I have an addiction

I have an addiction also, but mine is Bosch blue...

CT

 

[FullRaceMerc]

It's easy to get addicted once you own a few batteries. The lack of desire to double up on chargers & batteries in different colors furthers the addiction. My addiction has been yellow for several years.

 

[burger]

Thanks for the tips.
I was going to buy the glass protector sheets. Do they work? better plan (like replace glass as needed)?

I stretched the legs back out.

Fwiw, I have my cabinet on casters, which places it about 2-3” higher than stock. I’m 6’0 and a little more height would be better so your setup sounds perfect.

I find the covers cloud up pretty quickly and even when new they’re tough to look thru since they’re a separate thing that’s not 100% in contact with the glass. I have read on this forum that cut glass from a hardware store will last longer and is relatively inexpensive. No personal experience so that’s second hand info at best! It’s what I will try when my supply runs out tho.

 

[burger]

One other thing to add- I like to blast at night. Turn off the shop lights and just use the cabinet lights.

 

[Bob Heine]

I went the opposite way with my small HF blast cabinet. Put it on a wheeled cart with a shop vac and light so I can use it anywhere while sitting down. South Florida is only a few feet from the sun so being able to work in the shade is a bonus. The light fixture needs to be upgraded and moved inside but I've already replaced the left glove with a block-off plate (opens up a bit more space).

 

[rattle_snake]

Tried out the new cordless bandsaw on some unistrut. Cuts like butter. I might have a new best friend.
Probably going to put it in one of the cabinets, but hung on the mill for the time being.


Then gave tree a bowl hair cut with the hedge trimmer. The mechanism is heavy and not really intended to be used with the extension, but is required to do what I need. Works slick enough. Easy to change parts. Decent power, better than old corded one.
Chain saw is pretty light and powerful, better than the corded one it replaced. Overall happy with the set, will save time and effort.

If only the chain saw head was separate from it's extension and could be used as a normally chainsaw.
I see Dewalt does make cordless chainsaws, if a guy needed one.
but I have a relatively new Stihl that performs very well, so...
Down to only 3 chainsaws.

Broke my ghetto modified/narrowed leaf rake cleaning up. Wrapped it up to continue then head broke off. So instead of land fill and plastic import **** I 'restored' it. I guess I like this trud, as it's robust metal and with half the tines cut off, can apply heaver pressure. Hence broken handle.

 

[rattle_snake]

Moved the RTV that was holding the glass frame on upside down, and gave the cabinet a bath in prep for seam seal job. Only 107 today but should dry out quick enough.

 

[burger]

107 no thanks! I remember being out in Utah in 2021 and it being 115 and it was not as bad as it would seem, guess the low humidity, it was still gross. We still hiked and all.

 

[86turbodsl]

Maybe not a good idea, dunno, but when the siphon tube clogs up I block the nozzle and give it a short blast. I don't have a blow gun inside the cabinet, but I'm liking that idea. Execution should be fairly simple. D'oh! moment there!

My old cabinet was particularly bad about bridging the blast media and the floor and wall at the cabinet show the signs of banging it around to knock stuff loose.

This is what i do also. Just stop up the nozzle with the glove and hit the trigger and it clears easily.

 

[rattle_snake]

Interesting, I'll keep that in mind. So far no clogs with modified pickup tube.

 

[rattle_snake]

Too cheap to buy an 'upgrade kit' so I tried to spend just as much buying all the pieces.

The top of the 'intake' port baffle is open. Better fresh air crossflow is achieved with just one opening near workpiece height.




From same reason, fabricated a baffle for exhaust port. Installed at an angle so media doesn't collect on top. Hit them with some paint and sealed up all the seams with silicon.


My friend had flipped over the frame to make the glass easy to remove. But it doesn't seal so I removed and cleaned to put it back in the original configuration. The metal is very thin and will deflect when frame fasteners are tightened. Didn't like that so reinforced the bottom side with a strips of sheet metal bend at 90* to strengthen in the plane needed.


Secured rivet style with riv nuts that also make the nut captive for easier access for glass swap.


Added a gasket seal cabinet to glass. The frame already had a similar seal to sandwich glass.


Up next was electrical upgrades. Added a J-box with a switch to control vac receptacle and lighting.




For lights I bought a cheap flood light and only used the adjustable socket assembly. Made some brackets to fasten in existing holes.


Now we have light inside

 

[rattle_snake]

Next was plumbing. The existing sand pickup tube *****, so I went ahead added a vent tube. Both tubes are drilled near bottom and welded up to allow air into pickup tube from vent tube. Bottom end of vent tube is welded closed.



Using foot pedal, so tossed the existing gun and bought a cheap blast head. It had a 1/2" barb, so I converted it to 1/4" FPT. Used lathe to keep centered.




Added a filter/regulator and tee'd it out to the foot pedal and a blow gun on inside. Don't want blow gun on pedal.




Poured in a bag of media, hooked up shop vac and tried it out. Seems to work OK. More airflow would be better. View stays clear, no dust escapes cabinet like before. I have about $225 into this 'free' blast cabinet.