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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

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rattle_snake

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I took my younger daughter and a few of her friends to their first real rock concert. I'd call it Emo metal, but metal none the less with plenty of SPL you can feel. Now she wants to go to more concerts, and typical prices are $100-400. I told her to get a job... Later she asked how she could make some dough, so I signed her up to detail my cobra. Seems I can't find the time to give it the care I used to. Needs an oil change too. Moved the car into nice cool A/C'd shop, She did a great job.
Car is 19.5 years old with 61k.
te2wK_YKvVE0Ul1nJPqBegg=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Failed to come up with a fancy solution and used some repurposed poo pipe to make a tool holder for my new m12 collection. Why four tubes with only three tools? Just in case. Others are wondering why only four and not eight or ten. The lack of cords is worth the investment. Just need one more....
fHzonxC70juAOm-DjHGiriaw=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Hope you have some more of that ABS pipe, empirical evidence indicates you may need it in the near future.
Yes I figured this discussion would come up. I could use another angle die grinder for a cup brush, to replace one of many air die grinders. Wife said OK... but I need another battery. 2nd charger would be nice. Or even 2 more batteries.

Awhile ago I bought a corded (yuck) angle grinder for a radial type brush, to clean welds. It's really too big for many places.
 
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rattle_snake

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My GMG smoker has been broken for a long time, not even sure how long. Couldn't seem to it get it on 'the list', as I use my 1996 Weber kettle to smoke meats as well. The GMG made horrible clacking sounds, so I figured the auger was jammed, gearbox striped or something along those lines. Temp would drop, not usable. Operating temp is also way off from set point. Opened it up and pulled the auger motor and gear reduction box for inspection. All seems OK, Did heavy cleaning of everything and put it back together.

Also did a seal job on the lid using some 1/8" high temp adhesive felt gasket. Previous mods were chimney extension, and box slide control, which I see GMG now offers. Did a double gasket on back to make up for material thickness at joint. Fired it up and ran it for an hour, did fine.
vMr6JH-S8GawIKCEtsQVr5w=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
I have wanted to make a more-better chassis with big-*** tires and lower shelf since I bought it. Maybe it is time.
 

OutlawDrifter

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Justin, I haven't used my Daniel Boone in probably a year or so since I last cleaned it out. Maybe this fall when I cools down again around here.

For the box slide control, are you talking about the heat shield that goes over the fire box?
 

PugetDude

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My GMG smoker has been broken for a long time, not even sure how long. Couldn't seem to it get it on 'the list', as I use my 1996 Weber kettle to smoke meats as well. The GMG made horrible clacking sounds, so I figured the auger was jammed, gearbox striped or something along those lines. Temp would drop, not usable. Operating temp is also way off from set point. Opened it up and pulled the auger motor and gear reduction box for inspection. All seems OK, Did heavy cleaning of everything and put it back together.

Also did a seal job on the lid using some 1/8" high temp adhesive felt gasket. Previous mods were chimney extension, and box slide control, which I see GMG now offers. Did a double gasket on back to make up for material thickness at joint. Fired it up and ran it for an hour, did fine.
vMr6JH-S8GawIKCEtsQVr5w=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
I have wanted to make a more-better chassis with big-*** tires and lower shelf since I bought it. Maybe it is time.
Maybe it's time for a makeover...Screenshot_20230725-115407~2.png
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin, I haven't used my Daniel Boone in probably a year or so since I last cleaned it out. Maybe this fall when I cools down again around here.

For the box slide control, are you talking about the heat shield that goes over the fire box?
Cools down? All relative I guess.... 😎

yes the fire box heat shield you cannot get to when you need to, during cook.
2FtiPDV3mrSrCQjy4kwYY2S=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Horseshoe didn't work with folding shelf, cut it off.
0kBASy7xLL0fPZWn3ah_GN0=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

OutlawDrifter

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Cools down? All relative I guess.... 😎

yes the fire box heat shield you cannot get to when you need to, during cook.
2FtiPDV3mrSrCQjy4kwYY2S=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Horseshoe didn't work with folding shelf, cut it off.
0kBASy7xLL0fPZWn3ah_GN0=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Great idea, thanks! I'll be stealing that.

We finally had a real Spring here, but are paying for it now, first run of 100+ degree temps this week, with the humidity on top.
 

Jgaz

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My GMG smoker has been broken for a long time, not even sure how long. Couldn't seem to it get it on 'the list', as I use my 1996 Weber kettle to smoke meats as well. The GMG made horrible clacking sounds, so I figured the auger was jammed, gearbox striped or something along those lines. Temp would drop, not usable. Operating temp is also way off from set point. Opened it up and pulled the auger motor and gear reduction box for inspection. All seems OK, Did heavy cleaning of everything and put it back together.

Also did a seal job on the lid using some 1/8" high temp adhesive felt gasket. Previous mods were chimney extension, and box slide control, which I see GMG now offers. Did a double gasket on back to make up for material thickness at joint. Fired it up and ran it for an hour, did fine.
vMr6JH-S8GawIKCEtsQVr5w=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
I have wanted to make a more-better chassis with big-*** tires and lower shelf since I bought it. Maybe it is time.
Don’t want to HiJack your thread but these are the modifications I made to my son’s GMG.
IMG_0861_Original.jpeg
I have since covered the folding front shelf with a piece of stainless. My son is not the neatest BBQ chef and the expanded metal surface was a bear to clean.
 
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rattle_snake

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Broke down the GMG again to rewire the power cord. At 12' it is not long enough to reach any receptacle, so I had been using a dedicated extension cord in addition. I used 20' of the 25' extension cord as the new cord. Also added a hook for the cord coil. Used a rivnut and a BHCS to secure.
I ordered some wheels with tires, so the chassis modification is on.

aDmQH6QO08WjXwClJKPVsM_A=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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rattle_snake

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Continuing with GMG, yet another reason I need bigger tires. These little turds don't work well on pavers. Going to a 3"
fwGc80SqaPdGldaSLYG1NQw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Built a perimeter for a shelf and structural reinforcement out of 1" sq tube and will skin with some leftover 26 ga.
With chassis at ride height mocked up the new rear tires. :rocker:
Wo8CjZFb75lMmgnExP_DbIw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Some gnarly meats for a smoker. Rototiller type lug/Ag tires 16/4-8
JuUN_IpjyV5A-XglufvZEbjg=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

WoodsTruck

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I just had to help my neighbor with his grille last night. The connecter at the back of the circuit board was having an issue with the ground pin of the connector. I'm not sure if it was moisture that had caused issue but it had quite a bit of corrosion built up on the pin and corresponding spring terminal. He was confused and was just going to throw parts at it.
 
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rattle_snake

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So Justin! Do you think a twin 27 hp Kawasaki will be enough to power the GMG 🤣
no, maybe a 327 small block :)
I see you weren't kidding when you posted the tires for the smoker.
Nice.
No, I wasn't. I take building a ridiculous smoker seriously. or something like that
Wow didn't know those were available.
But then I would have to build steering setup and things snowball from there.
So 3" casters it is, for now.
I just had to help my neighbor with his grille last night. The connecter at the back of the circuit board was having an issue with the ground pin of the connector. I'm not sure if it was moisture that had caused issue but it had quite a bit of corrosion built up on the pin and corresponding spring terminal. He was confused and was just going to throw parts at it.
Throwing parts is some people's only option. Especially electrical where skills are less. Still better than doing nothing. Glad you could help out and save the thing from the dump.
 

PhantomEB

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I been looking for a deal on a pellet smoker, already said it must have bigger wheels or casters. Sold off my propane one as well my Weber Smokey Mountain. It’s a weekly trip to Walmart as they been selling out of Pit Boss’ left right and Center.
 

larry4406

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I been looking for a deal on a pellet smoker, already said it must have bigger wheels or casters. Sold off my propane one as well my Weber Smokey Mountain. It’s a weekly trip to Walmart as they been selling out of Pit Boss’ left right and Center.
I bought a Recteq RT1250 with the competition cart (sturdier frame and nice locking 4-wheel casters) as I wheel it too/from patio to garage.

Wasn’t cheap but I’ve been happy.
 

Cane

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I have a Daniel Boon only a couple years old. The plate under the grates on mine is solid....no holes in it. They make a heavy foil liner that's formed to fit the plate. Makes clean up a breeze. Keeps under that plate clean except for ash. I've never had to scrub anything on mine except I have a window in my cover that I clean with Wesley's bleach white.

Might be worth looking into.
 
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rattle_snake

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I cover the upper plate with foil for anything greasy. Then I can cook a pizza at 450 and not have to wait to burn off all the grease, smoke and whatnot. I have a buddy with both types (holes or no) and they work the same.
 
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rattle_snake

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For the last 8 years I have dealt with 3 flat tires on my riding mower. All slow leaks. At the time I was overwhelmed with shop build, so I bought a cheap HF hotdog compressor to leave in the barn for inflation. Somehow this weekend I decided to fix. Guess it is a good sign I am getting around to this type of stuff.
Pulled first wheel and dunked it into large much bucket. Leaky valve core. Easy fix. Other 2 had a puncture in the tread, so off to discount tire they went to get patched.
3_aWMdecL_sGHUAu6Nw9DLQ=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

We'll see how long they hold air. but for now success.
Also touched up duct tape job on seat.
2fANZu89lKnE1X-PhBcvXSA=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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rattle_snake

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Built a roof rack for the old camper shell, more for aesthetic reasons that to pile with overlanding gear, racks, tanks, containers and so on. More likely a elk or deer carcass, or someone else's junk.

The shell is about 2-3 inches shorter than the cab, which looks odd. The rack is easier than trying to rebuild the entire thing taller. Also hides the roof vent I'm adding, and will still fit under 7' door into attached garage. Goal is super light weight and stone simple.

I wanted 1x2 Al rec tube but all the local yard had was 1x2 channel, so went that route. Built basic outer frame on the uneven floor. Used some shims to get it flat.
7J-yKcd1AePNihX9WOTCMSAw=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Put some gussets in the corners with a large hole to secure straps to. Using spool gun with 0.35 AL wire, on Argon. Welds nice even without cleaning. Ran out of material so moved on to mounting. Put riv-nuts into rack frame and they bolt through from inside. foam gasket.
R_TTIeaBoy6OgWAkVXsugQQ=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Next step was to install a 14x14 low profile roof vent. Build a H frame at 14.5 x 14.5 to add to roof structure.
zcY1udlFfPzzDJntM2yCpYpQ=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Welded on some tabs so H bolted in instead of welding inside camper. Can weld it all up later when I pull the skin off for other mods. Then cut a hole in the roof.
m0NCrgjudKGsiDTMWYVqeIg=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Installed vent with foamgaskets
t2sT1s7qSnC_w3VGgZZskiQ=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Definitely wanted a powered ventilation, so bought a cheap $10 fan replacement. I made a simple bracket with adjustability. Since the vent is low profile, the fan didn't fit. I shortened the assembly buy modifying the blade and shortening motor shaft.
ol6CHTFWsV6EkrwGagX6HoA=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

installed so lid would shut, but drags on screen below.
BlMwSHgD75yuj-KpuJ2-0NA=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Spaced interior screen down a 1/4" and it clears.
zEq_joeHOfiSsCTXkQBmGbg=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Then on to wiring. cobbled together a panel and switches I had on hand. Cut a simple metal panel on CNC. 2 interior light circuits and one for fan. Have to fill that 4th spot with something... Simple single connection to truck.
tQioJzar4OVTtGradNW7OMQ=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Last project for weekend was to insulate. Used 1" foam and wrapped edges with foil tape. Friction fit. Some a bit tight. Needed exactly 2 sheets if no mistakes made, because I bought 3 sheets. Previous shell I had like this was insulated, and it made a huge difference. Hopefully with powered vent and insulation I can stall cooler in the early mornings when sun hits my toaster oven.
HSx8EyD4GwDcy3vCJRMdttg=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Installed rack even though not done. it hides vent nicely from side view.
WppskNxlsA17eKSnfok2bSw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

WoodsTruck

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How many amps is the canopy feed line capable of?
Yota project I'm working on will have a canopy as well and figured only a couple lights, but the fan is not a bad idea. Any ideas on the 4th switch in the future?
 

ntsqd

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I'm planning on some of that LED ribbon inside the difuser extrusion & translucent cover with a dimmer for lighting the rear of the Blanc-oh! while camping. I had about 16' of it bare, no difuser, in our first pop-top camper and it worked extremely well. With the two dimmers I could range from "Romantic" lighting up to cooking/reading lighting. As I recall I used 3500K LED ribbon.

With the shell that I had on Patch I rarely felt the need for a vent, but I also never camped in the Arizona desert in it either. Had to run to PHX last weekend to look at a truck. Zowie!
 
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rattle_snake

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How many amps is the canopy feed line capable of?
Yota project I'm working on will have a canopy as well and figured only a couple lights, but the fan is not a bad idea. Any ideas on the 4th switch in the future?
All of them :)
I would say around 10 A @ 12V. There isn't a fuse I should add one on canopy side. It is fed from isolated battery. I think fan is about 2 Amps. Lighting is minimal.
4th spot could be USB or some other gadget. Already have 2 volt meters.

I'm planning on some of that LED ribbon inside the difuser extrusion & translucent cover with a dimmer for lighting the rear of the Blanc-oh! while camping. I had about 16' of it bare, no difuser, in our first pop-top camper and it worked extremely well. With the two dimmers I could range from "Romantic" lighting up to cooking/reading lighting. As I recall I used 3500K LED ribbon.

With the shell that I had on Patch I rarely felt the need for a vent, but I also never camped in the Arizona desert in it either. Had to run to PHX last weekend to look at a truck. Zowie!
I still need a bright light. Have 15' of LED strip to put someplace
Once the sun hits the metal it gets hot quick even if it is cool outside.
 

ntsqd

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Once I put the ribbon in we never used the original lights in the camper. We'd just turn the ribbon all the way up and it was more light than with all of the original lights turned on. Mock it up and try it, if they're anything like ours were they'll be enough by themselves.
 
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rattle_snake

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My neighbor's Tacoma has around 6 zones of dimmable strips. They work very well like you describe. My next camp/wheelin' trip it Friday so I am time limited. With insulation there isn't an indirect place to put strips. Kinda need to skin the inside...

Still have some basics to take care of. Ordered a 10L mil water jug for emergency use (radiator or other) . Considered Rotopax but went standard jerry can. Plan to make my own mount.
 

ntsqd

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Not that you have time now, but would putting it in a difuser like these make the mounting any easier? I'm planning on using VHB to mount the difusers in the Blanc-oh.

My favorite camping water container: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/front-runner-plastic-water-jerry-can-with-tap.html I like it better than their newer design: https://www.frontrunneroutfitters.com/en/us/pro-water-tank-with-strap-and-tap-20l.html because the spigot works in the upright position and I place it next to the spare fuel can in Protofab's dual fuel can holder. I did upgrade the spigot to the brass unit.
i-dTLLPqM-M.jpg
What I don't like about it is the fill cap threads. Have to be very particular about putting the cap back on.
 
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