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rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

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rattle_snake

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Finished out the roof rack. Put a gusset with large hole on each cross brace.
7ScficVOodNQmNSo9jfNmwpg=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Q2EUyahnT_oD6uz1WkKkCMQ=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

replaced the single LED light with a strip to illuminate interior better.
rWU8Ju0EtSKbe9DoioYfqVw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Put a strip on the inside of the back door frame to illuminate the tailgate when door is open
wL8isJgupGj5lChnI_zVuig=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Re wired and some more of these tiny connectors with pinch screw terminals. Can disconnect all the pieces.
6Gjvh9O7SUkvHCcgnVcB-xOw=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Somehow things have snowballed into 5 additional lighting circuits. Lots of options
nFZ6OPvxkbt4fKffQ-MmOog=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

DAOND4QGEdTxJj6Bgy_Jmlw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Chill mode
wcav2wqTF1PJXrrH6GyF7cJQ=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 
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ntsqd

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Looks good!

Plus Eleventeen for the strip of LEDs on the rear window. Had the same idea for the FJ60 and never got it done. Should make cooking and repairs on the tailgate a lot easier. Now you just need a sheet of 1/4" UHMWPE to cover and protect the tail-gate on the inside. EDIT: Or maybe some King StarBoard.
 
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rattle_snake

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Lighting turned out well!
Thanks Marc!
Looks good!

Plus Eleventeen for the strip of LEDs on the rear window. Had the same idea for the FJ60 and never got it done. Should make cooking and repairs on the tailgate a lot easier. Now you just need a sheet of 1/4" UHMWPE to cover and protect the tail-gate on the inside. EDIT: Or maybe some King StarBoard.
I like the old ford tailgate too much to cover it up. Needs some scars.
Edit: your links are a bad influence for future expenditures...
I installed a couple LED rock lights on the rear liftgate of the kids Outback. Activated by the liftgate switch. I like light.
Nice!
 

LXCam

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Finished out the roof rack. Put a gusset with large hole on each cross brace.
7ScficVOodNQmNSo9jfNmwpg=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Q2EUyahnT_oD6uz1WkKkCMQ=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

replaced the single LED light with a strip to illuminate interior better.
rWU8Ju0EtSKbe9DoioYfqVw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Put a strip on the inside of the back door frame to illuminate the tailgate when door is open
wL8isJgupGj5lChnI_zVuig=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Re wired and some more of these tiny connectors with pinch screw terminals. Can disconnect all the pieces.
6Gjvh9O7SUkvHCcgnVcB-xOw=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Somehow things have snowballed into 5 additional lighting circuits. Lots of options
nFZ6OPvxkbt4fKffQ-MmOog=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

DAOND4QGEdTxJj6Bgy_Jmlw=w1284-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Chill mode
wcav2wqTF1PJXrrH6GyF7cJQ=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
Ya knoooow, if you were worth your salt you’d have the chill light on a dimmer




Just saying 🫢
 

ntsqd

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your ... a bad influence...

I've been told that before. :)

When MISF was deep in the building of his Scout II we were talking about how dark it always is under a dash. Ding, ding! Since it was all apart getting separate OEM gauges for all three fuel tanks he painted the whole upper part under the dash in Centari 817A white.
I suspect that a ribbon of LEDs under there pointed up would result in an indirect, soffit lighting effect.
 

WoodsTruck

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The Yota project I'm working on has an LED rock light facing down on each side of the dash, tucked up tight. This allows the footwell to be well lit and shine some light out on the ground next to the rocker panel. Thinking it would be a good add for my EB.
 
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rattle_snake

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I was contemplating adding footwell lights also, just to dome circuit. The lights below rocker work fine but poor light in cab from only the dome.
 
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rattle_snake

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I did add a light under the hood, with some junk I had on hand.
2siT2430OqpTiU6zg6L7rGQ=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Used a pin switch on hood to cowl. Not the best, but works.
hlrtxJRZyIYObmPKpYoUnAw=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Whilst searching for a suitable power supply for the hood light, I decided to tap into the horn/N2O branch. The last guy even left a pig tail to connect to. 😎
366MOkMhSAjnUxee7DZoYag=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Swapped out the aluminum arrow for a soft FM antenna, before it gets broken off plowing through the brush. Had to tap the smooth shaft to M6.
KqBGmXvyYXRv9m7CeKUmFYoA=w680-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

ntsqd

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MISF put LEDs in the bottom of his DD's doors that are tied into the dome light circuit. "Puddle Lights" he calls them. I guess some late model fancy-smancy cars have those. I wouldn't know.
 
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rattle_snake

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Received the new rear wheel tire combo for the GMG smoker. The tires are not a s cool as the others, but similar and they are foam filled, so never have a flat. My weber has pneumatic tires and they go flat over time. Step one was to burn out some axle mounts on the plasma
5Q2eROsu76pGgD5YHTBrFBmQ=w680-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Axle is a 3/4 OD tube, common wheelbarrow size. Used some spacers from a no-flat wheelbarrow tire I had on hand. Welded 3/8 kep nuts into the ends of the tube to have threads to secure wheel. Nowhere close to Zmotorsport's custom TIG'd radio flyer wagon axle, but will hold it off the ground.
RYhEWmM0YjcXD0jgaLZEcYQ=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Going to paint the wheels some other color but popped then on for now. Maybe green with white stripe to look like a white wall.
oLiPkamj46lvYCTUxylGC5w=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

80ieyYMhktW-cMpS4IFghifQ=w680-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

4QjkklQln4Wds9KLLj0AWIrw=w692-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg
 

burger

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Whilst searching for a suitable power supply for the hood light, I decided to tap into the horn/N2O branch. The last guy even left a pig tail to connect to. 😎

I've been meaning to ask about that. I'm not at all familiar with four corner state offroading. I did it once with a rental Jeep. When would you want N2O?
 

Monza Harry

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Justin the forth opening on the cover, [the vent fan and light control panel] could be used for a possible plug in for your caps speakers [feed from truck] or for headphones/Bluetooth remote speaker, if the cap already as a feed? Water in my opinion should be bottled and at least half of it frozen and stored in your cooler(s). There was an article in 4Wheel and Off Road, [quite some time ago] that some "expert" claimed that melted water should be jettisoned immediately. I disagree strenuously I can't add it to the rad or my body if I dumped it! You live in the desert so triple the importance for you! Where his argument falls apart for me is that the water is "Thermal Mass" it will be 10#'s per imperial gallon [7.8 #'s per US Gal. IIRC] at 32* 1 cc of water requires 1 calorie of heat to raise from 3*C to 4*C and but to melt 1 cc of ice at 0*C (32*F) to 0*C water requires 80 calories of heat so melting ice means your cooler is [gaining] getting hot. No? Your progress is very impressive Sir! Harry
 

plain2car

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justin, I got pretty nervious when i noticed the jack used to hold the BBQ'r/smoker!! (WORRIED ABOUT WEIGHT LIMITS!)... but, allas you were able to make the repair/upgrade safely and without harm!! LOL!!!!

....NICE JOB!!, lights look great!
 
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rattle_snake

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I've been meaning to ask about that. I'm not at all familiar with four corner state offroading. I did it once with a rental Jeep. When would you want N2O?
Sand. Never have too much power in the sand.
There was a local sand drag place that closed recently, unfortunately. A few more on PHX area.
justin, I got pretty nervious when i noticed the jack used to hold the BBQ'r/smoker!! (WORRIED ABOUT WEIGHT LIMITS!)... but, allas you were able to make the repair/upgrade safely and without harm!! LOL!!!!

....NICE JOB!!, lights look great!
Thanks! Maybe I need another jack..
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin the forth opening on the cover, [the vent fan and light control panel] could be used for a possible plug in for your caps speakers [feed from truck] or for headphones/Bluetooth remote speaker, if the cap already as a feed? Water in my opinion should be bottled and at least half of it frozen and stored in your cooler(s). There was an article in 4Wheel and Off Road, [quite some time ago] that some "expert" claimed that melted water should be jettisoned immediately. I disagree strenuously I can't add it to the rad or my body if I dumped it! You live in the desert so triple the importance for you! Where his argument falls apart for me is that the water is "Thermal Mass" it will be 10#'s per imperial gallon [7.8 #'s per US Gal. IIRC] at 32* 1 cc of water requires 1 calorie of heat to raise from 3*C to 4*C and but to melt 1 cc of ice at 0*C (32*F) to 0*C water requires 80 calories of heat so melting ice means your cooler is [gaining] getting hot. No? Your progress is very impressive Sir! Harry
Harry,
Yes an old debate. I'm someplace in the middle. If heavy then purge. Interesting math.
 
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rattle_snake

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Well the wheelin'/camp trip did not go well this weekend. Made it about hour and a half when truck behind me noticed smoke. Pulled over and saw trans fluid pouring/pumping out of bell housing. Wasn't going to make it far at all, and the one extra quart I carry wasn't going to help. Done. Got off the highway and called for yet another tow, a long expensive one this time.
1q-xbCu_fXN7QJttGDtbW-A=w1208-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

Becoming familiar sight unfortunately. I can't win with automatic transmissions. Regardless of trans type or builder they all catastrophically fail in short time. Beyond frustrated, can't trust the truck.
sWJBNtlQ6PMTo4f50fZ0r8GQ=w680-h906-s-no?authuser=0.jpg

And yesterday yet another alternator failed in the cobra. Broke down truck blocking lift. 😕
 

OutlawDrifter

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That's a bummer Justin, I feel your Ford pain...my oldest son's Ranger is having a no start issue I haven't had time to mess with yet.
 
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Monza Harry

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Ok you had to know this was coming, but you need a GM transmission! I'm thinking a really done up THM 400 with a GV Overdrive or go straight to the 6L90E and never look back. And yes they make adapters for that, plates and/or bellhousings. Monza "BOWTIE" Harry. :ROFLMAO:
 

Monza Harry

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More gears is better of course! :ROFLMAO: He has a heavy 4X truck the 6 gear will have a better crawl ratio in 1st and 2nd, and those giant meats need a creeper gear to get things started. He has plenty of cubes so a stiff OD should cruise easy for better MPG's and 90Nm's should be a tougher box than than the 80Nm's of the 4 gear. The 4L80 would be a decent gearbox for a truck such as Justin's as well. Remember Bodj, we like spending other people's money here mostly! Harry
Why not go with a 4L80?
 

ntsqd

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The guys that I first went to the Baja 1k with had a new to me then take on the water in the cooler. Keep in mind this a whole crew of serious, well built pre-run trucks - not a bunch of Trust-Fund truck wannaBs. Water in the cooler is "suspension" for the Tecate's. It keeps them from being shaken up.
'Nough said?

As to the trans, I've an extremely well connected friend in your area. Want me to ask him if he has any local trans guy suggestions?
 
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rattle_snake

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Ok you had to know this was coming, but you need a GM transmission! I'm thinking a really done up THM 400 with a GV Overdrive or go straight to the 6L90E and never look back. And yes they make adapters for that, plates and/or bellhousings. Monza "BOWTIE" Harry. :ROFLMAO:
Oh boy I'll pass on the bowtie bait Harry 😎
Justin, how far did they have to tow it? Hard to tell from the pics where you were when it **** the bed.
almost 100 miles. Made it to Rye just before climb up to Payson. Hog creek towing and impound was next door. Good service
The guys that I first went to the Baja 1k with had a new to me then take on the water in the cooler. Keep in mind this a whole crew of serious, well built pre-run trucks - not a bunch of Trust-Fund truck wannaBs. Water in the cooler is "suspension" for the Tecate's. It keeps them from being shaken up.
'Nough said?

As to the trans, I've an extremely well connected friend in your area. Want me to ask him if he has any local trans guy suggestions?
We that does make perfect sense!
 
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rattle_snake

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Dug up my spare alternator for the cobra, luckily it is rebuilt already (again) so I can just pop it in. sticker date was 03/2020 so last one made it 3+ years. Tempted to just replace the regulator.
 

Mark_17

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How fast are you turning that alternator? On the LS motors. people tend to go through alts fast when they're over spinning their motors.
 
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rattle_snake

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The alternator failures are heat related as apposed to rotational speed. Voltage regulator is right next to exhaust manifold. Common issue. I put in a heat shield and a fresh air duct but it still get cooked.
 

plain2car

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justin, there is a trans guy (not sure about ford products) very close to me (us) named Jason (??shop name??) if desired i can contact him and see what he thinks for your truck.... if he can do or not. if desired, let me know. i met him at the downtown chandler show a few mo. ago. he is really cool! sorry about the tow... i know that area.. it is not very populated... LOL!! THE WAY BACK is ALWAYS alot farther WHEN BEING TOWED! :p
 

Slowbuilder

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Thanks for the tips.
I was going to buy the glass protector sheets. Do they work? better plan (like replace glass as needed)?

I stretched the legs back out. So on wheels it sits 4" higher than originally. Comfortable for me at 5'11''. Removed the torn gloves. Cleaned all the tape adhesive off the glass and removed the glass frame that was RTV'd to the top. Going to hose it out so it is clean enough to seal all the seams.

Decided to hold off on the cyclone seperator system for now. Get it working first, address any issues, then reconsider. No sure it will get enough use to justify cost/space/clutter.
Justin:

If you are interested in the cheapest protection for your blast cabinet glass, I have had good luck just putting a layer of 3M clear packing tape on the inside of the glass. If you replace it before it gets truly opaque, the tape stays in one piece better as you pull the old strips off. The 3M tape holds up better, and stays in one piece better than the no-name brands.

Sorry to hear about your transmission woes - it sounds like you didn't even get it off road on that trip before it took a dump.

Glenn
 

Bigblue&Goldie

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Trail Transmission in AJ....... and old C6 will feel right at home!

Hopefully it's just a pump seal.
 
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rattle_snake

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Justin:

If you are interested in the cheapest protection for your blast cabinet glass, I have had good luck just putting a layer of 3M clear packing tape on the inside of the glass. If you replace it before it gets truly opaque, the tape stays in one piece better as you pull the old strips off. The 3M tape holds up better, and stays in one piece better than the no-name brands.

Sorry to hear about your transmission woes - it sounds like you didn't even get it off road on that trip before it took a dump.

Glenn
Thanks for the tip. I believe that is what my friend had done, there was lots of tape goo on the glass.
Trail Transmission in AJ....... and old C6 will feel right at home!

Hopefully it's just a pump seal.
Thanks for the referral. No more C6 though, 6r80 now.
 
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rattle_snake

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Assuming the TC/pump seal went, it went all at once on flat ground at constant load/speed. Seems odd, I would think the seal would developed a leak before going catastrophic.
I know trans did not get hot. Only thing I can think of is pump pressure spike. The trans controller has direct control of line pressure.
 

LXCam

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Bummer on the trans Justin. I hate even asking this question but how's the alignment of the converter, any chance its moving around on the flywheel?. I assume its centered with a dowel / crank bushing but I've seen guys many guys drop a fresh build in not knowing they needed to install a crank bushing and wipe out the pump in short order.
 
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rattle_snake

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Well the converter alignment is complicated with the engine /trans adapter. It is 2" thick of what looks like beautiful machining. But it can introduce addition runout. It has a snout to crank and a recess for converter snout. There are 2 flavor of 460 crank snout sizes, I remember measuring it and pretty confident it is correct.

I do remember that the flex plate had a lot of axial runout. it's thin 'flexes', once thick adapter was bolted to it seemed OK. I've got a trans jack on order to make removal easier.

YW9E3T0gOoxpurHsJZ9M6Njk=w722-h963-s-no?authuser=0.jpg.
 

MadeByMiller

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Sorry to see the transmission problems Justin. The plasma table drain recess dies are a good idea. Will you weld the water table seam now that you've got it cleaned out?
 
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