rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

[rattle_snake]

Speaking of, beyond my new AR10 we acquired some more particle accelerators. Sadly from my late father-in-law. He was a Major in the Army, 25yrs. All are in great shape, officer's 9 auto, Rem 1100, bolt 30-06, .308 and some 22s. Safe is, well full, but has a few ARs that are just visiting.

 

[OutlawDrifter]

Never fun to acquire them that way, but a great memory and legacy to hold on to.

 

[rattle_snake]

Left handed heavy metal guitar stand. It's heavy, metal and somewhat evil looking. Cut 45s on the tube ends and capped them shut. Plan to spray clear over the bare metal and leave the weld discoloration. No plan for this just built it.

 

[Bears Fan]

You Rock

 

[rattle_snake]

You Rock

I may have stolen some ideas from this guy... and some inspiration. Note the SS bolts in lug holes.

 

[rattle_snake]

I attempted to remove the transmission from the 72 Ford. 2 of the 3 difficult bell bolts were easy enough but the last one took awhile. No hope of getting any tool on it from bottom or top side. lock-tite'd in. So I made a custom hex head crow foot. Cut of a chuck of a hex key and welded it to some bar, and a nut on other end to get a socket on to. It worked to break loose. Went up top and unscrewed the rest of the way, but no room to remove. Tried to lower trans and the bolt hits the cab pinch seam.

I don't recommend crawling into engine compartment while on the lift, but it can be done.


I knew it would be tight on firewall, and would have to split the torque converter from the spacer to lower the trans as it can't go back 3-4" I have 1". Unfortunately the flex plate takes up 1" or so and it was hopeless. Engine must come out to get trans out. Bolted back up and called it a night.

 

[86turbodsl]

I may have stolen some ideas from this guy... and some inspiration. Note the SS bolts in lug holes.

I have been completely unable to source big truck drums like that. Looks amazing!

 

[Monza Harry]

Your welcome Justin! I was just throwing $#!+ at the wall to see if something stuck! [Line hone/bore]. My dad was a violin maker, and did convert many instruments to "right minded use" (lefty joke right thar). I know that a violin, viola, Cello. and an upright Bass need the bass bar and sound post reversed, but an acoustic bass guitar I'm not sure. Solid body I believe you can switch, not sure if the pickup needs to be changed to a lefty or if they are universal. Kept at it, if it was easy everybody would have a cool old truck, car, well you get it! Harry
Added info: Dad was a lefty, and learned (more, self taught) how to play all the instruments he played right handed, the left handed thing all came about after the Bettles back in '64, until about '70-74 (IIRC) then died off and he didn't do as much in the music business as he then had a better paying job with benefits and paid vacations etc. so just a side thing after that.

 

[PugetDude]

I have been completely unable to source big truck drums like that. Looks amazing!

Not that far to Indiana.
(I hear Tony has connections...)
Road Trip!

 

[rattle_snake]

Built another guitar stand to avoid working on the truck. Didn't want a matched pair, so went another route with automotive parts.




Learned enough to properly set up my cheap drum set and starting to play some beats.

 

[rattle_snake]

But had to move the music gear to get truck off the lift and onto the other side of the shop to yank the motor. Had it out quick by myself.


With engine/trans on the floor I can inspect and mock up much easier than in the chassis. Yet to open it up.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Only thing I can think of is trans pump/converter seal let go. Now, as to why, not sure.

I know a guy who has a brand new 6R140 would sell cheap . .

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Well the converter alignment is complicated with the engine /trans adapter. It is 2" thick of what looks like beautiful machining. But it can introduce addition runout. It has a snout to crank and a recess for converter snout. There are 2 flavor of 460 crank snout sizes, I remember measuring it and pretty confident it is correct.

I do remember that the flex plate had a lot of axial runout. it's thin 'flexes', once thick adapter was bolted to it seemed OK. I've got a trans jack on order to make removal easier.

.

That style flex plate should have a support ring on it. Do you have one or try one to see if it would clear?

 

[rattle_snake]

That style flex plate should have a support ring on it. Do you have one or try one to see if it would clear?

Randy, thanks for chiming in. Can you post a pic of said support ring? Thanks.

 

[rattle_snake]

I separated the trans and pulled the torque converter. Can't visually see anything wrong with it. Seal surface on TC had no nicks or scratches. Measured both pilots on spacer and they are spot on.

 

[rattle_snake]

Did some research on 6R80 pump guts and seals. The notches in the converter directly drive the pump gear. Only a roller bearing and the one double lip seal to the bellhousing. So the seal has to hold the full pressure of the pump. There is an big o-ring behind pump body to case but I doubt that is the issue. Have to pull pan and whatnot to get the pump out.
Ordered a FoMoCo seal to replace. Plan to slap in the seal and reassembly to check gap.

With flywheel on crank the axial endplay is +/-0.025. Drops to +/-0.010 with spacer bolted up. I don't think this is the problem.

Measuring the relevant distances of the bell/TC/adapter/flex to see if there should be some gap. I think I did this last time....

Took a 5# hammer to the firewall pinch seam and did some additional 'clearancing'. There is no way to modify things to allow the trans to be removed without the motor with the thick adapter.

 

[ntsqd]

It seems odd that the crank end-play would change with the adapter bolted on. I'd want to know what was causing that. Maybe it isn't THE problem, but right now I think that it is A problem.

BTW, "hammers" now identify as Impact Applicators.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Randy, thanks for chiming in. Can you post a pic of said support ring? Thanks.

Such horrid headaches have not signed in for a bit. Starting to get dark out but will look to see if I have a ring handy.

 

[TimeWarpF100]

Found a flexplate ring. Stuck it in the evapo for a few minutes to clean it up a bit.

Looking at trans separated from engine pic I would have a few questions.
1) With converter all the way in what is depth difference to when transmission is bolted to adapter converter adapter to flex plate.
or with trans bolted to engine what is endplay converter adapter to flex plate
2) If I am picturing this right the converter adapter flat surface rests on what does not look so flat area on flex plate does it hit welds ring gear to flex plate? Hard to tell diameter of both.
3) Assuming there is enough clearance under end of oil pan to install bolts from backside flex plate into adapter to converter?
4) What hits first if you hold flexplate up to converter adapter?
5) is there anything protruding from converter to back of converter adapter?
6) You most likely have already checked this stuff but just going by what I can visualize from that single photo. Part of converter adapter into crankshaft. Do those crank to flywheel bolts hit on Adapter?
7) Was a new FORD converter seal used? Issues with most aftermarket.
8) Do you have enough clearance to add the flex plate ring?
I will get a photo of it but all the fords used them but do not fit all aftermarket flex plates

Looks like a nice well made setup

 

[TimeWarpF100]

5 1/8” OD
3 5/16” ID

 

[rattle_snake]

It seems odd that the crank end-play would change with the adapter bolted on. I'd want to know what was causing that. Maybe it isn't THE problem, but right now I think that it is A problem.

BTW, "hammers" now identify as Impact Applicators.

This was runout cause by flex plate shape. Bolting the thick space straightened it out.

I measured Crankshaft endplay is 0.009 which is still in spec. Don't remember what it was fresh but now the bearing have some miles. Wanted to make sure the assembly wasn't pinched and wearing crank thrust bearing.

Such horrid headaches have not signed in for a bit. Starting to get dark out but will look to see if I have a ring handy.

Damn sorry to hear. I can relate to horrid headaches and the side effects on life. Hope they resolve soon.

Found a flexplate ring. Stuck it in the evapo for a few minutes to clean it up a bit.

Looking at trans separated from engine pic I would have a few questions.
1) With converter all the way in what is depth difference to when transmission is bolted to adapter converter adapter to flex plate.
or with trans bolted to engine what is endplay converter adapter to flex plate
2) If I am picturing this right the converter adapter flat surface rests on what does not look so flat area on flex plate does it hit welds ring gear to flex plate? Hard to tell diameter of both.
3) Assuming there is enough clearance under end of oil pan to install bolts from backside flex plate into adapter to converter?
4) What hits first if you hold flexplate up to converter adapter?
5) is there anything protruding from converter to back of converter adapter?
6) You most likely have already checked this stuff but just going by what I can visualize from that single photo. Part of converter adapter into crankshaft. Do those crank to flywheel bolts hit on Adapter?
7) Was a new FORD converter seal used? Issues with most aftermarket.
8) Do you have enough clearance to add the flex plate ring?
I will get a photo of it but all the fords used them but do not fit all aftermarket flex plates

Looks like a nice well made setup

1) I did a full set of measurement back on first assembly, plan to re-check once I can put converter back in
2) it does rest on flat to bolt up
3) yes
4) bolt ring
5) just the pilot
6) no interference
7) Yes I have a new FoMoCO seal to go in
8) would have to check

5 1/8” OD
3 5/16” ID

Thank you Sir!

 

[rattle_snake]

I bought another type of seal puller and popped the old seal out. Unfortunately I scratched the bushing behind it.

Upon further inspection it didn't look so good and was loose in the bore. I pulled it out and the bushing is completely trashed. So that would explain the seal fail, but don't know if bushing was already worn before I put it in or if my new setup damaged it. 86000 miles vs 800.

New bushing on the way. Ford only sells the pump housing with seal/bushing, but have to open up trans and pull pump to install. TTY bolts, orings, ect.

 

[zmotorsports]

Justin, I've noticed on some bushings (and seals for that matter) there are helical grooves that are supposed to aid in directly fluid a certain direction. I believe these are also based on the direction that the rotating part is turning but is it possible that the grooves are going the wrong direction, bushing was installed incorrectly or the wrong bushing was used which would have been directing the fluid more forcefully onto the seal in which it couldn't hold back the fluid and result in your massive fluid leak?

Just a thought as I read through your dilemma. But then again maybe not as that wouldn't explain the destroyed bushing in such a short time period.

 

[rattle_snake]

Justin, I've noticed on some bushings (and seals for that matter) there are helical grooves that are supposed to aid in directly fluid a certain direction. I believe these are also based on the direction that the rotating part is turning but is it possible that the grooves are going the wrong direction, bushing was installed incorrectly or the wrong bushing was used which would have been directing the fluid more forcefully onto the seal in which it couldn't hold back the fluid and result in your massive fluid leak?

Just a thought as I read through your dilemma. But then again maybe not as that wouldn't explain the destroyed bushing in such a short time period.

Mike, The seal is directional and has a little arrow showing intended orientation. The OEM style bushing has no oiling groove, although there is an oil port that supplies fluid to the bushing. I assume the inner side of the bushing is the pump suction side.

Old bushing had soft material pushed out and wobbled itself loose in the bore. I was able to pull it out easily. New bushing is interference fit and needed to be driven in. Made a custom bushing driver using the old bushing and some pipe.


I pulled the pan and replaced the filter, as I had an extra one on hand Inspected the dirty side of the filter, found a few bits of bushing material. Emptied TC, it was clean. Drained and blew out the cooler. Overall there wasn't much bearing material in all of the fluid, but none last time I cleaned out the inside of the trans. So it appears the bushing failed or continued to fail during the miles I put on it.


I installed seal and converter to test fit. Math indicated that I should have .0100 gap between TC and flex. Upon assembly I measured 0.050. Destructions say 0.125 to 0.187. Not going to accept 0.050 so I called the adapter manufacturer

 

[rattle_snake]

Working with Speed Gems on TC gap issue, Got a confirmation on the dimension stack up, too tight. They are going take care of me and send me another motor plate to stack with the 1st. This will yield another 0.075" and gets me into the 0.125+ range. The TC spacer is blanchard ground and has steel inserts on the only side that can be cut, so even if it fit in my lathe to modify it wouldn't be ideal. Stack isn't ideal either but it is the quickest and easiest solution. Dowels are plenty long.

I have another plate from the c6 but it has steps pressed in and starter was moved slightly and bolts rotated. Don't want to cobble that together.

 

[rattle_snake]

Putting some extra speaker to use. They were not a good fit for the speed metal shop system and were replaced with subwoofers. They are Dayton 10" music/PA speakers, so perfect for a bass cabinet. On with a simple sealed box


Planned to put the amp guts out of another setup, so made a space for it at the top. Tried it out and it didn't have the oats to barely move the cones.


So cut the top off and made it into a stand alone speaker cabinet.


Primed all the seams and exposed edges with Kilz, then used the HVLP gun to lay down some flat black. Boring for now but have some ideas to make it more 'custom'


Found a used Line 6 150w amp head for $100. Put the components in and tested it out with the bass guitar. Now the cones move and make the vibes it should.

 

[lilscorpion]

Left handed heavy metal guitar stand. It's heavy, metal and somewhat evil looking. Cut 45s on the tube ends and capped them shut. Plan to spray clear over the bare metal and leave the weld discoloration. No plan for this just built it.

Love your posts. There’s the focal point of the post and just as much to look at in the background. Each pic deserves multiple looks.

Nice job on the guitar stand.

 

[rattle_snake]

Love your posts. There’s the focal point of the post and just as much to look at in the background. Each pic deserves multiple looks.

Nice job on the guitar stand.

Thanks Matt. Background seems a bit cluttered as space in shop disappears. Need a bigger shop or less stuff.

 

[rattle_snake]

I was avoiding starting on the '72 Ford's new speaker system until the transmission was back in the truck and driving, but that is taking longer than planned.
So.... I have started cutting big pieces of wood into smaller ones. Starting with new subwoofer enclosure to accommodate a pair of RF Power T1 shallow 10s. Shallow subs are compact to fit in thin boxes and the 'depth parameter' is common way to compare them. In my case of a behind the seat install, the part sticking out the front is equally important. The T1s moved the flange back about 3/4", with 1-1/4 of the driver protruding from the baffle. This will cause interference of the moving parts (driver cone/surround) to the back of the seat. To undo this, I needed to recess the drivers into the box by a sheet thickness. This complicates the baffle, but will have more style and contours. It also necessitated the need for a tool purchase, to get perfectly round large holes, a router circle jig.

The setback plates take up room in the box so I made them smaller with 45s.


Glued them to the back side of the baffle. Screws are really just to compress the glue joint while drying. Exact pi/4 radian distribution is done to ensure symmetry in the universe.


Ran a 1/2 round over bit over the edge to finish off the look. The sides will get some type of diamond pattern like the seat. Box will be covered in same material as the seat for a perfect match.

 

[lilscorpion]

Thanks Matt. Background seems a bit cluttered as space in shop disappears. Need a bigger shop or less stuff.

Unfortunately needing more space is an always need. Don’t think the. Background looks cluttered in your case tho, I was referring to all the cool things you’ve done which is picture bombing the current thing.

 

[ntsqd]

I don't know who said it, but whomever said "Stuff expands to fill the void" nailed it.

EDITED: typo

 

[zanyad]

"Stuff expends to overfill the void".

FTFY.

 

[rattle_snake]

Unfortunately needing more space is an always need. Don’t think the. Background looks cluttered in your case tho, I was referring to all the cool things you’ve done which is picture bombing the current thing.

understood thanks. Here's a good example of a broken truck and BBF lurking in the background. Wish the motor was in the truck and running but it does make a good conversation piece....

 

[rattle_snake]

Slowly learning to do a dry clamp setup before glue up. Test fit a driver in the box as it is difficult to predict how the magnet structure would clear the back wall.


Answer is just barely. 1/8" or so.


Went ahead with glue up. The angled face imposes more math and complicates assembly. Clamp pressure on a non right angle joint incurs misalignment so some additional orthogonal clamps with cauls were used to stabilize. Also used some angled drops to get bar clamp ends orthogonal to face.

 

[Bodj Built]

Use a brad nailer to lock them together when gluing. Holes are small enough that some DAP can fill it and easily sand flush.

 

[rattle_snake]

Good idea, I probably should have used brads on the angled edges. I use brads for some things but I'm trying to be a purist (not sure why I have to over complicate everything) and avoid fasteners.

I used to build all speaker boxes with only screws. Now I'm into glue and clamp. No holes to fill or metal to hit when routing/routering (?) the edges. Gluing without fasteners takes more time, which can be helpful or not. Sometimes going slower and paying attention to detail results in better outcome. I can't believe I typed that, must be getting old.

 

[Bodj Built]

Hahahahaha Nerdddd. No I totally get it. You make good points.

 

[Jgaz]

Slowly learning to do a dry clamp setup before glue up. Test fit a driver in the box as it is difficult to predict how the magnet structure would clear the back wall.


Answer is just barely. 1/8" or so.


Went ahead with glue up. The angled face imposes more math and complicates assembly. Clamp pressure on a non right angle joint incurs misalignment so some additional orthogonal clamps with cauls were used to stabilize. Also used some angled drops to get bar clamp ends orthogonal to face.

I like that bumper shelf above your workbench.
Someone above was right, the background of your pictures is aways worth a look

 

[rattle_snake]

Hahahahaha Nerdddd. No I totally get it. You make good points.

Well, this is garage journal. Some members here tend to overcomplicate anything and everything, simply for the sake of over complicating. For example you can buy stuff already built and ready to use. Speaker box, vice, wagon, truck chassis, ect. Not going to name anyone...

I like that bumper shelf above your workbench.
Someone above was right, the background of your pictures is aways worth a look

Thanks Jgaz!

 

[Ohmthis]

Finished out the bandsaw cart with a deflector plate to capture the chips/shaving. Was waiting for the brake to make stuff like this.


Needed a lip inside of the saw frame to full cover.


should keep the chop saw below it and floor cleaner.

Justin I’m playing catch up on your thread, sorry for the lat comment. I really like the fore thought on the tape measure holder and a place for the marker. I need to keep this in the back of my mind. It would be really handy at any saw.