To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

rattle_snake's random shop projects v0.1

Bob Heine

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 24, 2009
Messages
10,705
Location
Boca Raton, Florida
My grandfather owned two guns, a Browning double barrel 12 gauge for duck hunting and a 300 Savage rifle for deer hunting. I don't know what year they were but probably purchased when he was doing well in the 1920s. He took care of them like they were his children.

Several times I went hunting with him in Vermont in the mid '50s. I loved being with him, sitting absolutely still on a freezing cold rock and not making a sound for hours. I was happy just to be in his presence.

When he died in 1967 my grandmother sold the two guns for $50. She didn't ask if I was interested but probably thought correctly that I shouldn't be shooting long guns one-handed.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

ntsqd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
967
Location
Lower left coast
I hesitate to guess what those two firearms are worth now. A .300 Savage was most likely a Model 99. Not sure what the shotgun would be other than likely Belgian made.

I like the modularity and ease of owner changes that the Savage bolt actions offer, I just wish that they weren't quite so clunky. I have a .308 Norma build that is slowly coming together in a Savage stainless LA, and then a .243 AI and a 7-08 in SA's after that. All 3 barrels sourced from NSS. I spec'd too tight of a twist in the 7-08 and I'm debating turning it into a 7-.300WSM.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
Been keeping an eye on the Cobra's rear tires as they near end of life. Right side is though the first layer of steel so about time. 5700 miles, the most yet, due to my easy and responsible driving style. Or maybe not and that these NT555RII are not as soft and sticky as the Mickeys.
y3oezr4_I4BAFXUqZsWNA=w715-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

Still farting with the A/C. Drove it after adding 12 oz and it wasn't operating at full capacity. I cannot find a leak. There is dye from the factory. I washed the engine anyhow and looked again. Went to add some more and my cheap import low side connector broke and leaks. New parts on the way. Won't be driving to much on what is left of the tires.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
Optics parts came in for the Savage rifle. Installed the bases and rings and found out quickly the scope tube is too short. I figured with a lathe and a mill, I can make anything fit. But instead I called my neighbor who is a rifle nut/hoarder and he stopped by with a tote full of bases and rings of all types, including an extended version of the one I needed. We got the forward base swapped out, the rings were nice and true, and test fit the scope. The 50mm objective just clears the iron sight with extra tall weaver rings. Next step is it disassemble, locktite and level the scope. I also updated the sling mounts from fixed loops to a quick connect studs. This allow use of any sling or none.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
No, the fit out of the box was acceptable. My neighbor has a scope lapping tool but said good to go. The new weaver rings did not come top/bottom paired to one another either. I'm new to this level of detail on setup.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
New 134a low side coupler showed up and was able to put some more refrigerant into the Cobra's A/C system. It holds 34 oz. I have put in 24 now, blowing super cold out the vents. Measurements indicate low (35, 225 @ 105) pressures, but cold out of evap, through drier and pipe to pump so not adding any more. It was dark and cabin cool so will see what it does on the road in the daytime.
 

ntsqd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
967
Location
Lower left coast
No, the fit out of the box was acceptable. My neighbor has a scope lapping tool but said good to go. The new weaver rings did not come top/bottom paired to one another either. I'm new to this level of detail on setup.
At some point that level of detail is overkill for the intended use. With an expensive optic I lap the rings so that they don't damage the optic. I've been meaning to try a set of the Burris XTR Signature rings as they have a self-aligning design that intrigues me.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
It's still fun to play with them and make small improvements. I was wondering the same about the clamping force from the rings, some will allow overtightening to deformation of the tube. I guess that's why there is a torque spec.

The Burris XTR
420210-square-detail.png.webp
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
Finished out the scope mounting on the Savage 110. The new Vortex scope came with basic lens covers but ordered some flip up style that will be more appropriate for hunting. Last step will be sighting in then ready for use.

The other rifle from my late FIL is a Mossberg 810A. The 810 line is mid 70's vintage. It is quite a bit heavier than the savage. This particular rifle has minimal wear, and I would guess he bought it new. I removed the existing fixed 4x scope and rings for a modern setup. Trigger pull is not good, it measured out at about 10 lbs, which is way high. I brought it over to my neighbor who is going to work the trigger and install a new low cost scope out of his stash.

The 30 rd detachable magazine arrived for the SKS. The weapon was not intended to use a detachable mag and is somewhat clunky to operate. Need to hold the bolt open and mag release at the same time to remove. It loads cartridges OK under normal circumstances, however not well cycling bolt slowly. No ramp below chamber. Have to go shoot it to see if it is reliable. Ordered a cover for a similar style red dot sight, hope it fits OK or can be heated to re-mold. Also ordered a folding pistol grip stock and a single point sling system to share across the semiautos.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
A/C in the Cobra seems to be functioning at full capacity. While in the shop I cleaned the air filter. It gets dirty quickly being so low to the ground. Outside filthy at 5k miles but nice and clean inside, clean MAF. Brake fluid has been changed a few times but has some years on it now, should flush again at some point. New rear tires arrived and waiting to be mounted.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
I like having a sling on my shotgun for hunting. Previous method was to loop the end of the strap around the barrel, which I wasn't to happy with. For the Rem 1100, I bought a 870 cap with a swivel quick connect and a stud for the stock. Luckily the cap fits properly. Drilled the stock and hit the but plate screw, but deep enough and shortened the stud to work. I also needed to add a 2nd loop/clip to the sling. Not easy to break down the strap and re-sew, instead bent open the metal loop and fit the strap, crimped back shut. Plan to try the swivel nut on my Winchester 12ga semi auto, and equip it the same so it can use any sling as well.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
Drove the cobra one last time on the old tires to test the A/C system. It was able to cool the cabin much quicker after soaking in the sun all day. While I was out, figured one more burnout. Let it sit on the line lock for 2-3 seconds in 2nd gear, released the button and drove out of the giant smoke cloud until the car matched wheel speed. Looking at the patches, 14 psi was too low and caused the edges to wear faster.

Now this I didn't expect, and have not seen before. The last layer of rubber delaminated from the one burnout. The Mickey Thomson's never did this. These were Nitto 555RIIs.
CgtJ152KWo0KNnYXVdJw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

I think these are done, new tires ready to go on.
zJ3LFHYUvaWLL2JkRHdw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!

4 FN 27

ALLIANCE MEMBER
Joined
Oct 19, 2015
Messages
4,635
Location
Minnesnowta
Now this I didn't expect, and have not seen before. The last layer of rubber delaminated from the one burnout. The Mickey Thomson's never did this. These were Nitto 555RIIs.

Exercise extreme caution...quarter panels are not cheap to replace. Witnessed a few Tires come apart and remove the quarters and inner wheel tubs at the same time...
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
Maybe the prior burnouts had something to do with it as well? ;)
Who Me? foot slipped.

Not really, just at the edge of traction to put down what it has. Drag radials are not cheap. :cool:
Exercise extreme caution...quarter panels are not cheap to replace. Witnessed a few Tires come apart and remove the quarters and inner wheel tubs at the same time...
Yes seen some of that damage.
After a peak at the tires I drove my truck to the gym a mile away as that seemed to far for what was left.
Is the IRS allowing the car/tires to squat down and minimizing footprint on the outside edges of the tires?
Yes I was only able to get static camber a -1*, and the rear UCA is shorter than the LCA, causing additional camber as it squats.
 

Cane

Well-known member
Joined
Feb 8, 2022
Messages
346
Exercise extreme caution...quarter panels are not cheap to replace. Witnessed a few Tires come apart and remove the quarters and inner wheel tubs at the same time...

There's a Olds sitting out by my shop that a friend used to own.....he drove home three miles in reverse one night cause what was left of the tire was beating the inner fender......
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
Drove on the new tires today. They are quite different as I remembered. The M/T carcass is less rigid, soft sidewall. Back ends is loose and wiggly. They hooks 1st even with the switch to a 3.73 ratio. The 555RII is a better road handling tire, but no where near as sticky, unless heated. Anyhow, the car is back in action.
 
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
More fun with things that go bang. I tried the sling swivel cap on my early 80s Winchester ranger 140. Same thread but too short, and the original cap has a check valve in it. The cap allows air into the magazine/piston tube as the gas from barrel moves piston rearward.

Mounted a QD stud in the wood foregrip using a modified T-nut, flush mounted.
AbOczYLZXFUO9VYjO43w=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

UN55bWTWYVjslIBgS6Aw=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg

I bought this shotgun from my friends dad when I was 14 to bird hunt. Once I had my own wheels and could go shoot whenever, I put a ton of shells though it shooting clay pigeons. I hunted with it for 30 years but now it is the backup loaner gun. I believe Winchester made over 1.25 million of this model. This one is 898,***.
 
Last edited:
OP
R

rattle_snake

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 25, 2015
Messages
5,197
Location
Chandler, AZ
I've had this old single shot break action 12 ga as an ornament over the shop door. Back when I was a teen, it was handed down to my dad, rusty and in poor shape. My dad takes excellent care of his firearms and was turned off in general to the gun. We tied a string to the trigger and test fired one shell. It works. It was given to me when I left for college, I never really looked into what it was.
Turns out it is a Iver Johnson Champion, and from markings and SN, I would estimate manufacture date of 1917-ish. I believe it was from my GGF on moms side, same as the old Rem .22. I oiled it up, still operates as it should. I may do something about the rust some day, but maybe it is better left as is.
-G1XcA8W17xEbqB340gg=w1271-h953-s-no-gm?authuser=0.jpg
 

ntsqd

Well-known member
Joined
Jan 22, 2005
Messages
967
Location
Lower left coast
If not pitted then a penetrating oil soaking followed by a gentle scraping using, specifically, a pure copper penny (or a small piece of copper) while the oil is still on the metal can remove the rust without removing the bluing. If it is pitted this method will only remove the bluing where there are pits from the rust.
 
To avoid these ads, REGISTER NOW!
Top Bottom